Good morning from Lisbon on a rainy Monday. The sun and rain do a constant dance here in Lisbon, at least as far as I can tell. Lots of on and off rain all day, mixed with bursts of sunshine. I just got back from breakfast — coffee con liete and a crossaint — I stood at the counter in the pasteleria and ate like the Portuguese do. I´ll be heading south to Faro in the Algarve this evening, but will enjoy a lazy final day here in the city.

Yesterday was another busy one, full of discovery, exploration, lots of walking and some spirituality too, perfect for Sunday. I´ll have to give more details in emails and letters to some of you, but here is a quick snapshot of the day:

I started at a fascinating exhibit all about St. Francis Xavier, which is part of the Jubilee 2006 festivities surrounding the anniversary of the birth of Xavier and Faber, and the death of St. Ignatius Loyola. This dovetailed nicely with things I had learned and discussed on the retreat I went to in MA right before leaving for Lisbon. The exhibit was housed in an old cord/rope factory, and I have cool stories and photos from that to share as well. Xavier was a missionary who traveled to India, Japan, Indonesia and elsewhere…he is one of the figured carved in the Monument to the Discoverers that I visited next, further down the street in Belem. I took the lift to the top to see an incredible view of the Tagus River and all of Belem, a neighborhood about ten minutes outside of downtown Lisbon. I visited the incredible Jeronimos Monastery next, then headed across town to the Azjuelos Museum, which is housed in a beautiful old convent. Azjuelo is the Portuguese word for tile, and this museum explains how the painted tiles that decorate Lisbon and all of Portugal are created — there are examples from the 15th century up to today.

Ahhh!! That is a quick rush one paragraph summary of a truly incredible day…I liked learning about daGama, Xavier and all the other explorers that left from Lisbon to embark on their voyages of discovery…I guess you could say I´m doing my own personal version of the same thing…setting out from Lisbon to see where the rest of this trip will take me!

Yesterday I ventured outside the city walls, on a day trip to the medieval village of Sintra, about 40 minutes west of Lisbon by train. There are several castles there, including the magestic Palacio de Pena . It was a long climb to the top, but I decided to do it, and was joined by a French university student, Colombe, who was walking uphill as well. She was very nice, here in Lisbon for the weekend doing research on teh city for school, and we chatted between huffs and puffs as we climbed. The view at the top was spectacular, and we watched the sky go from clear to cloudy as rain approached. After a late lunch back in town (ham and cheese never tasted so good!), Colombe and I split ways and I headed on to the Sintra Municipal Library, a newly renovated one that I had read about before arriving in Portugal. I tried to get on the computer there, but the place was packed, so I justed looked around, checked out their art exhibit and headed back to the train station as the wind and rain picked up. I decided to return to Lisbon via Cascais, which is south of Sintra on the ocean, so I waited for a bus that would take me the 30 minutes to the ocean front town. I got there as dusk arrived, but just in time to see the Atlantic, hear the waves and wander along the waterside shops for a bit. I learned later that the better ocean view is really at Cabo de Roca, but I´ll have to see that on a return visit.

I returned to Lisbon last night in time to rendevous with my latest pals, who I actually met on Friday but did not get a chance to write about yet. Estelle is from Paris, and is my hostel dorm bunk mate. I met her when she arrived Friday afternoon. Earlier that day, I had asked Katrina to take my photo at the Castelo do Sao Jorge, and ten minutes later we had plans for dinner. She and her friend Jenny are from Germany, but are studying in Malaga, Spain right now. So, Friday night the three of us — me, Estelle and Katrina — had dinner together and made new friends while we ate with the four Portuguese university students seated next to us. Duarte, Joao, Filipe and Carlos helped us decipher the menu, order our meals and treated us to some beers and an after dinner drink that only Katrina was brave enough to try, called bagaço. (Don´t ask me how to pronounce this, or many of the Portuguese words I´ve been introduced to this week!) After dinner on Friday, the guys showed us around Barrio Alto for a bit, the neighborhood where all the nightlife is. The bar we went to was “tasca” meaning inexpensive, so it was very crowded and we didn´t last long, but it was a remarkably fun night that we shall all remember for a long time.

So, getting back to Saturday, last night Estelle, Katrina and I had a quick, unplanned dinner again at the place I had eaten my first night here. It was fun to walk in there again and have the owner wave to me, he remembered the funny American girl who was back! They treat us really well there, and are very friendly. It was a nice chance to catch up again and trade stories about our adventures from the day, but since mine wore me out so much I was off to bed and asleep early last night.

I´m off to visit several museums today…the hostel should be quiet tonight so I hope to have time to write again one more time tonight or tomorrow before I leave here. I´ll respond to your comments and emails then, thanks again for visiting!!!

The traveller has seen much of the world and of life, and has never felt comfortable in the role of a tourist who goes somewhere, take a look at it, thinks he understands it, takes photos of it and returns to his own country boasting that he knows the Alfama. This traveller must be honest. He went to the Alfama, but he does not know what it is. All the same, he walks and walks, and when he finally comes out at Largo de Chafariz de Dentro — after being lost more than once as he knew he would be — he wants to immerse himself once more in its dark alleys, the twisting dead-end streets, the slippery steps, until he feels he has at least learnt the first few words of the immense dialogue going on between houses, inhabitants, personal histories, laughter and the inevitable tears.

~ from Journey to Portugal, Jose Saramago

I spent Friday morning on a walking tour of the Alfama. I wrote a bit about it here at the Eurail Blog, another place where I´ll be writing a few times a week. It is now the wee hours of Saturday morning here, and I just got back from another fantastic night with new friends from Germany, France and Portugal. I will write more about them and our Friday night adventures sometime over the weekend, but I´m off to bed now. TGIF and happy weekend to all, I know it is a long one for some in the States, so enjoy!

I spent yesterday evening wandering around Chiado, Baxia and some of the other neighborhoods that make up Lisbons downtown. I was definetly nervous to pick my first place to eat, so I kept walking until the hunger head spins started around 7 pm. I wound up back very close to my hostel at a small place right off the Largo do Carmo plaza where I had used the phone to call home earlier. Leitaria Academia was, appropriately enough, packed with university students enjoying some cervezas. It is a small place, but the students were tucked in a back corner room so I ordered one of the plates of the day and sat at a table in the main room. I knew when I selected Perma de Porco Assada that I was getting pork, but had no clue how it would be served. It came sliced, with salad, rice, french fries and bread. I ordered a glass of white wine and a cafe con leite after I was all done, the entire bill came to 7.90 euros, and I left the kind woman who served me a 2 euro tip since she was very accomodating and knew I was a bit nervous about all this…

But it worked out perfectly, just as I had hoped – by selecting one of these small eatieries off the main Rossio (which is beautiful but more touristy and busy), I was able to interact with locals from town. I found the courage to ask the university students, “Fala Ingles?” and the rest was history…they sat at my table with me, sang songs and invited me to join them for dinner at another location. (Of course, I had eaten dinner much earlier than most Portuguese do.) So I went with them, although I did not eat again, I did get great tips on how to order and where to go. They bought me my first Portuguese beer, a Sagres, which I drank while talking with thiem about school, New York, language, traveling and architecture, which is what they are all studying. Two of them, Rodrigo and Jose, knew english very well, but all of them knew enough to get by chatting for a few minutes or more…Saul, Carolina, Raquel, Fabiana, Natu, Rosario and Renato was so much fun, and I enjoyed their company and hospitality until I departed for sleep around 10 pm. They were all round 18-19 (drinking age is 16 in Portugal) and full of energy, but my jet lag (and age) caught up with me and I was ready for a good snooze, which is exatly what I got. It was such a memorable first evening in town…

Not sure where today will take me, but Iºm headed out soon to find out…I think a walking tour first…

Here’s me and mom at the house before leaving for the airport yesterday. It is taking a long time to upload so that’s all for now. I’m also having a heck of time getting used to the keyboard, so I’m gonna stop now and head out for something to eat and enjoy the last hour or so of daylight…this should be an adventure, my first Portuguese meal! At least I feel like myself again, I slept for three hours, showered and organized my stuff. Thanks for all your emails and comments…this is so fun, and it is so nice to have folks following along…

The traveller regains the street and feels lost. Where should he go now? What is he to visit? What shall he leave aside, either on purpose or because of the impossibility of seeing and commenting on everything? And anyway, what does it mean to see everything? It would be just as valid to stroll through the gardens and to go and look at the ships on the river as to visit the Jeronomite monastery. Or to do none of this, but simply sit on the bench or on the grass, enjoying the splendid bright sunshine. It’s said that a ship at anchor is not sailing. That is true, but it is preparing to set sail. So the traveller fills his lungs with fresh air, like someone hoisting sail to catch the sea breeze, and sets course for the monastery.

~ from Journey to Portugal by Jose Saramago

I made it to Lisbon, although there is no splendid sunshine today — it is a rainy day which is just fine, since I am so, so tired. I hardly slept on the plane, I sat between two Portuguese men who were returning to Lisbon after a conference in Las Vegas for their company, Staples! It was funny to talk to them about brand marketing, sticky notes and such. (Dad, they coplimented the Uni pen you gave me as top of the line!) Anyway, they were very nice, taught me lots about the city, culture, and some language lessons too. The woman at the tourist booth, my taxi driver, and the staff at the hostel have all been just as hospitable. I am staying in the Chiado neighborhood…being back in Europe, instantly I´m reminded how young America is. Everything is so much older here, and so very beautiful…even in the rain.

Well, I’m off to call mom and dad then head to sleep for a few hours. I may go exploring in the early evening to get some dinner and visit a bookstore, there are several in the neighborhood.

I returned late last night from a long weekend at Eastern Point Retreat House in Glouchester, MA, at the very southern tip of Cape Ann, which is an hour north of Boston. It really is like being at the edge of the world there, and was just the place and space I needed to visit for some quiet time and reflection before the big trip. I was lucky enough to see the most gorgeous sunset ever when I arrived on Friday, as well as experience the intense fury of the ocean during a winter storm as I prepared to leave yesterday morning. The grounds and surrounding area are simply spectacular. This is my favorite shot, read the caption to see why.

The ride up on Friday was awesome — no traffic, four hours listening to my favorite tunes while enjoying the scenery. The weekend Nor’easter made the return trip a bit more challenging — it took almost seven hours, traveling at 35-40 miles an hour for much of it. Let’s just say I won’t miss driving for the next few months!

But it was all completely worth it — to be able to spend time in reflection and silence at such an amazing place. I am especially grateful to my brother Mike who told me about this unique Jesuit retreat experience, and to the small community of fellow Jesuit alums I met this weekend. I’m also very thankful for my safe return to New York — it was absolutely frightening for a bit — but the strength and insight I gathered on the retreat helped to keep me calm and peaceful as I traveled. It’s a feeling I hope to carry with me as I board the plane to Portugal on Wed., and for the duration of my journey…this one, and many others to follow.

I consider myself tech-savvy, especially when it comes to the web, and I admit to having a slight addiction to connectivity. An Intro to the Digital Age class I took at Johns Hopkins in the summer of 2003 taught me all about blogs, RSS and such, and since then I’ve enjoyed experimenting with these technologies that allow a communications nut like me to stay in contact with folks/news/data all the time.

The web has also opened tremendous doors for me in the past two years — I’ve made incredible new friends and business contacts, and I’ve been able to follow my travel passions and dreams in ways I couldn’t have imagined. My iBook has been my sidekick through it all, searching out free wifi spots up and down the east coast with me, helping me stay online much of the time.

But I had to make some tough decisions when preparing for this extended trip, and my trusty iBook did not make the cut. No matter how I tried, I couldn’t justify hauling it around for five months on a trip that is supposed to be about being in the moment, meeting people and experiencing the thrill of semi-unplanned travel. Interestingly enough, my laptop battery died this week, a sure sign that I’ve made the right decision to leave it at home — the poor thing is tired, worn out and not up for a long lug around Europe.

I know I’ll be staying at some hostels with free wifi where I may really miss not having my iBook around, but my back is excited about the lighter weight of my pack, and I’m convinced my travel experiences will be richer by leaving it behind.
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It’s the home stretch now…in a week’s time I’ll be there. Unbelievable! But in the meantime, I’ve got to get rid of the nasty winter bug I’ve caught, while still managing the list of things that need to be done. I knew this cold would catch up with me eventually, everyone’s dragging around with something these days..and I’ve been on a grand tour of NY/NJ the past two weeks, visiting family and friends all over the place, and it seems that everyone has a sniffle or sore throat.

But it has been so fun — I went to see both my godparents and visited my two godchildren. (That’s me with absolutely adorable Abigail!) I spent one morning at a school for kids with special needs where my cousin works and also visited my mom’s third grade class one afternoon, where I talked to the sudents about my friends who are living in China. There was a Super Bowl shin-dig with the girls, and a few other enjoyable get-togethers with aunts, uncles, cousins and friends. I keep saying to everyone that I feel time will fly very fast. I think these five months will go by quick…

Today, while nursing myself on lots of liquids and soup, I’ll put the hard-core planning on hold and take it easy with some pre-trip pampering: a long-overdue haircut & a pedicure too — a treat for my toes before the five months of intense walking, hiking and backpacking that lie ahead.

John Flinn wrote a great article in yesterday’s San Francisco Chronicle about purchasing and packing gear for a trip:

As individuals, and as a society…we rely too much on gizmos to keep us safe. True security comes from the things we do, and don’t do.

His piece comes right on time for me, as I wrap up my final gear purchases and move to the more challenging task of reviewing what is absolutely necessary and deciding what should be returned?! I don’t think I’ve gone overboard, but even things like the hostel sheet and soap holder need to be scrutinized one last time…do I REALLY need them? Flinn mentions Magellan’s, where I just finished spending a $50 gift certificate given to me a few months back. It was a lot harder to use than I thought, especially because they do have a lot of these “bells & whistles” products that just didn’t appeal to me. I’m going very low-tech on this trip, so I wasn’t attracted to many of their security-enabled items. I did consider the socks with the zipper compartment, but then decided they were unneccessary — I’ve got a money belt, travel smarts and a simple plan to making sure my valuables are safely stored at all times. So, I used the gift certificate to buy a small travel wallet, some mesh packing pockets and a tiny travel umbrella. When those items arrive this week, I’ll do the final dress rehearsal. If the bag is too heavy, I’ll repack it again and again till it feels comfortable and secure. My biggest fear is bringing too much of the wrong stuff. I’m sure I’ll make one or two miscalcuations along the way (I’ll bring too many socks and not enough underwear!) but here’s hoping I don’t make any major gear goof-ups.