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German Snowballs

Friday, May 22nd, 2009

We crested a hill and unexpectedly on the other side we found The Alps! Suddenly spread before us was a wonderful panorama – in the foreground were more of the farms dotted with villages we have been seeing, and which still look as romantic as three days ago when we first came across them (we were on Die Romantische Strasse, after all), an occasional palace-type castle with some evergreen forest…and rising up behind were the mountains. Magnificent, majestic, still dusted with snow. WOW! Simply stunning. Beautiful. Actually this whole region is beautiful. Every mile covered is like turning another page in a landscape painting book.

But what were we doing here? Weren’t we supposed to be in Rothenburg fixing The Other Womo? Well, yes, we were.

BUT

We woke to pouring rain and so it seemed pointless to make the almost weather-proof hole any bigger. So after another quick zip round town to give the rain time to clear (which it didn’t), we decided to head for Oberammergau and hope tomorrow is sunny enough to render repairs possible. Right now as I write, a thunderstorm is raging outside, lightning is flashing, rain is pouring from the heavens, wind is blowing over the mountains and we’re just hoping the tape holds the van together. But this will not be another everything-is-going-wrong post! (Although the water tank is much emptier than it should be having been filled just this morning and not used all day….and the GPS played silly games when we were trying to route the day’s travels…..and all the supermarkets are closed without explanation…..and Jboy13 wore a windblown door on his head this evening……and it’s 7:30 and dinner is not ready….)

But I’m sitting here listening to the family sing praises together and recite the Ten Commandments, I’m looking out at the mountains, our nice big pot full of thickening potato soup is wrapped up in a blanket, we travelled safely today, the sun is setting behind me, the children have all had a “bath” in a glacial-cold stream, and we had SNOWBALLS at lunchtime (thanks Grandpa).

First of all the river-bath:

And the snowballs:

About these snowballs…..yesterday when I took the children for a walk we noticed Schneeballen in every bakery. We had happened across a Rothenburg specialty, and bought one to try. Even eating it did not help us know for certain how they were made, but up the street was a bakery with a wide screen television showing the complete process. And so we stopped to watch. And egg, flour and sugar pastry is rolled out quite thinly. The middle is cut into strips, but not all the way to the edges. Every other strip is lifted onto a wooden “broom handle”, then the baker slips his hand under these strips and expertly folds them all together into a ball, which is placed in a special long-handled tong-like tool. This is dipped into oil and deep fried. After cooling, the snowballs were traditionally sprinkled with icing sugar (hence the name), but today they can also be covered with chocolate and nuts and filled with all sorts of creme fillings.
Grandpa liked the sound of these delicious delights, and made sure he got some before we hit the road this morning!!!

Time on the road: 4 hours
Distance covered: 290km

(Speaking of snowballs, on the day I uploaded these two weeks worth of blogposts, we received an email from Anak Ranch – it snowed there for three days after we left….and is snowing again….poor guys lost all their seedlings to this last blast…..the kids will really wish we had stayed longer!!)

tourists in berlin

Friday, May 15th, 2009

by Rach
Berlin, Germany

Finally! We got to see some of The Sights, some of the things Berlin is famous for.
With careful planning we were able to make full use of the rule which states you can hop on and off the trains as many times as you like in two hours so long as you travel in one direction. And so, at my parents’ suggestion, we detoured to the Hauptbahnhof on the way to Alexanderplatz, where we had some business to attend to. What a Grand Central Station! It’s all glass….everywhere. And there are trains coming in at the top and more trains three stories below. Apparently there’s also a huge mall inside, but, being in a hurry, we didn’t stray from the S-bahn platform we alighted onto. That was enough to impress. Plus, we were still marvelling at our previous stop – Friedrichstrasse – that station was bigger than our main station at home, and we knew there was an even bigger one coming. Yes, most impressive.

Another hop and a skip took us to Checkpoint Charlie. Totally touristified. There were guards standing in front of the house, who let you pose with them – for a fee. There was a visa stamping station, where you could have your passport stamped – for another fee. There were gypsies asking if you speak English or German and then thrusting a sign into your face declaring how hungry they were and asking for money. There were big informative posterboards telling the story. There were double-decker tourist busses dawdling past giving the passengers a twenty-second view along the street and groups of tourists looking at what their guides tell them to look at on the ground. But I don’t mind *touristy* – now I can *see* where all those hostage exchanges in the war novels I devoured in my youth took place.

Next stop: Potsdamer Platz. There were almost as many tourists there, just as many busses, even more gypsies and another visa stamping station. We couldn’t quite work out what the fuss was all about – it was a square surrounded by fairly conventional, even boring, buildings. It will be remembered by us as the place we watched a crow swoop down and grab a sparrow, fly off to a nearby lamppost and eat it. Oh, and get visas – the friendly guard gave us eight *gratis* just because there were so many children in one family! He must have known how disappointed the kids were that we were not prepared to pay $5 each just for a stamp!

Our ticket time was used up by now and we walked up to the Brandenburger Tor…taking in the Holocaust Memorial on the way. Unlike any other memorial we have seen, it is a series of rows of concrete boxes of varying heights, ranging from very low to higher than a person. Almost maze-like, it called for a game of hide-n-seek, which was allowed on the condition that it be a quiet respectful game.

If Checkpoint Charlie was totally touristified, there is no description for The Brandenburg Gate. In addition to all the Charlie attractions, here there was a huge variety of street theatre with each performer passing round a hat, horses and carts to take you for a ride, actually all manner of things to take you riding in or on….and all attracting a handsome fee. Even the Berlin Bear, who came and posed himself next to us asked for a tip!

 

Round the corner was the Reichstag, a FREE attraction – I’m sure the kids would have enjoyed climbing up into the glass dome, but everyone was cold (spring here means hot tshirt weather on Sunday and get-your-thermals-out-on-Friday…and tomorrow we’ll wake to rain dripping on the Bear Cave roof), and so I just raced off for a photo, because I was the only one wearing thermals and hence not freezing.

 

I caught up with the rest as they walked up the street towards the train station – other days we’d have done the hour long walk to get home, today we took the train. Besides, we couldn’t just stop at a noodle stall on the way back for dinner – we are well and truly back to cooking for ourselves and not even considering eating out.  So we had to get home to turn the bockwurst into curry!

berlin beginnings

Sunday, May 3rd, 2009

by Mama
Berlin, Germany

We arrive at 7 on a Sunday morning.
Everything is closed and will remain so all day, apart from the flea market we zip off to ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Sixteen Second Snowman

Tuesday, April 21st, 2009
by Rachael Day 4 on Train 5, ending up in Moscow Our compartment is still pitch black when Mboy6 stirs for the toilet. As he cracks the door open light streams in and I catch a snatch out the corridor window ... [Continue reading this entry]

at last! a real snowstorm!

Sunday, April 19th, 2009
by the Mama, who is not ready to be on the homeward leg of the trip Train 5 (day 2), travelling through Siberia We all wake at approximately the same time – that would be when the train draws to a ... [Continue reading this entry]

QUITE A SHOW!

Saturday, April 18th, 2009
by Rach Train 5 (day 1), from Mongolia to Russia Were they looking for salamis or what? Three times they unscrewed and removed the ceiling outside our compartment to check the revealed space, which would have been lucky to conceal ... [Continue reading this entry]

Trans-Salami Express

Friday, April 17th, 2009
by the lady who wants to learn to make sausage one day Train 5 Dharkan (night 1), Mongolia to the Ruskie border We haven’t even made it to the Russian border, in fact, we’ve only just boarded the train at Darkhan, ... [Continue reading this entry]

“There Won’t Be A Cake Here, Will There?”

Monday, April 13th, 2009
by the Mama Orkhon, Mongolia Birthday Breakfast Under the orange-painted rafters you awoke, the glow form the firebox casting colour on your cheeks. Five years old in Mongolia.

Fortuitously for you, yesterday there had been cause for ... [Continue reading this entry]

*spring*

Sunday, April 12th, 2009
by Rach Orkhon, Mongolia Spring is supposed to be a time of new life. Here it seems that rather than filling the people with expectancy and anticipation, everyone is heaving a sigh of relief that they survived another winter. And because ... [Continue reading this entry]

authentic anak

Saturday, April 11th, 2009
by Rach Orkhon, Mongolia I was a teeny bit apprehensive about signing up for time at Anak Ranch. It might be a real working farm, but it also has a snazzy website and is supposedly set up to cater to ... [Continue reading this entry]