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simply welcoming

Monday, April 27th, 2009

by Rach
Tallinn, Estonia

We’re in a community house.
Breakfast is shared with a red-hat-wearing dreadlock-bearded Santa Claus’s helper. This Finnish man actually went to school with Santa Claus. We certainly didn’t have any inkling we’d be meeting *him* when when we set out over six months ago! He’s an interesting bloke. We discover that although he can walk, he has a broken spine and that he has a genetic degenerative disease as well. But he is thankful that he can call himself “completely disabled” and concentrate on the things that matter in life. He possesses powers such as being able to harness the wind, being able to detect God’s presence (the hairs stand up on his arm – and I cynically thought he was cold <wink>), being able to become invisible (useful when he is sleeping out in the forest), and he receives messages to pass on to world leaders. What’s more, parliamentarians (at least in the Baltic) listen to him – today he has an audience with one, and a meeting with people involved in the Clean Up Estonia campaign. He is passionate about making the world a better place, disposing of rubbish in particular and encouraging people to live in harmony. He is working on a vision to have countries everywhere clean up their rubbish; he’s contacting heads of state, environmental ministers and all forms of media to promote his utopian dream.
Although he feels he was failed by school, which he left at fourteen years of age, he is a very educated man and talks knowledgeably over the course of the morning about insect pheromones, Estonian historical literature, etymology, nutrients in food, monastic practices, political systems, human evolution, community.

A few hours later the conversation is still swirling through Jgirl14’s mind.
”So what did you think of this morning’s conversation?” she asks as we prepare food together in the tiny kitchen. We hold Santa’s Helper’s worldview up against our own.

He sees a little bit of God in everyone, everyone is god. Disagree.
He says everyone is made in the image of God. Agree.
He believes Utopia is possible here. Disagree.
He wants to work towards a society that considers others before self. Agree.

The nuances of meaning are close, but distinctive. We discuss.

But he’s not the only one at breakfast. A young man involved in setting up food co-operatives with local preferably organic produce joins the conversation – people’s relationships with food sources becomes the topic and many of my own mantras are repeated with a foreign accent.

A couple of girls sit on donated armchairs, deep in their own discussion. Another flies in and out of the kitchen. They’ve been living in this rented house for almost a year, and with donated and scavenged materials, in a labour of love and passion they are turning it into a welcoming community home. A large wooden house, during the Soviet era it had been turned into a multi-family dwelling, which was left to go to rack and ruin with a series of alcoholic inhabitants. Now it’s on the way to being a community resource with nine people living here permanently and many many more turning up for meals and choir practice and bike repairs and companionship and and and.
Before they started there was no shower – now there is also a washing machine, a toilet and a tap in the kitchen. Before we came there was an attic space. The day of our arrival, they laid six sheets of chipboard, opened the windows and collected mattresses – and voila, this one-tap-house was ready to more than double its occupancy. When we walked in two pots of curry were simmering on the stove – it was Bollywood night and we were, of course, invited to the party. Someone apologised for the state of the kitchen – they were still cleaning up from the previous night’s party! This was looking like a fun place to stay, and that was before we had even met Santa’s Helper.

It did turn out to be a great home. By Western standards it is incomplete – it’s a breezy (especially the attic with its big gaps in the unlined walls) unfinished wooden house, with not one wall totally painted, with uneven floors, with a kitchen opening so low you have to duck to get through unscathed, with holes in the walls and cobwebs hanging from the ceilings. But it is also a place of music (it seems there is always someone playing some of the instruments lying around, or a choir exercising their vocal chords), it is a place of art (and not mass-produced prints – the people who live here create and display), it is a place of conversation, of cooking together (even Anzac biscuits a few days late), of books (including No Logo, national geographics and Diana Leafe Christian’s “Creating a Life Together” providing practical tools for growing ecovillages and intentional communities, which I have skimmed with interest), it is a place of laughter, it is intergenerational, it is a place of industry (there’s a bike repair service downstairs and it’s the base for a pedicab business too), it’s a place of sustainability (you should see the compost pile) and of generous hospitality. Again we have been welcomed.


                                                                                                           our attic wall

clean and tidy

Sunday, April 26th, 2009

by environmentalist Rachael
Tallinn, Estonia

Again we’re surprised at how an imaginary line can cause everything to be instantly different. On one side, where we’ve just come from, is a roller-coaster-bumpy road lined with pines and birch trees. Russia 😉
As we wait in the queue at the line called a border we see the first trees with new green leaves. Spring has reached Estonia.
Across the line is a beautiful town; Narva, according to the sign. Set on a river or perhaps sea inlet (we’re not sure), church spires poke up from solid old stone fortress walls. It’s fairytale beautiful and we expect to see Cinderella walk by.
Russia might still think Estonia is hers, but a decade and a half of freedom from what-was-always-illegal-Russian-control has been time enough to make this a different place. For a start, the birch trees thin out! The road turns smooth, the grass is green and well-tended in public spaces. Buildings are neat and tidy. Fences, straight and made from palings (as opposed to any old scraps of anything). Gardens are being prepared. Every back yard is full of dark newly-turned earth. I suppose, to be fair to Russia, it will look the same there when the snow has gone in a couple of weeks.
Farmhouses, stone and wooden, dot the countryside. Hay bales sit rolled in fields. We pass a wind farm. Pine forests thicken. Small purple flowers brighten the forest floor. A little (very little) snow lingers in the shade. Some roads off the main one are dirt – but they look smooth. Even the ramshackle falling-down buildings look quaint rather than dishevelled. A bit further on houses sit in fenced quarter acre yards, almost New Zealand-like (but with the number of fruit trees and vegetable gardens it is a NZ of yesteryear, my childhood growing space – not the relatively cramped cross-leased infill-housing of today).

First impressions are that Estonia is a tidy place. Digging deeper we find out this is not entirely true – or at least it has not always been so. Almost exactly a year ago this was the site of a massive CLEANUP campaign – in one day over 50,000 people took to the streets, forests and waterways, and removed 10,000 tonnes of illegal waste with the help of more than 40 waste management companies, who then recycled 80% of the rubbish. You can see all sorts of inspirational details right here. I had read about this while still in New Zealand, not for one moment realising we would end up staying with some of the organisers! But here we are in a composting recycling home in the heart of Tallinn talking to guys who were instrumental in the Let’s Do It cleanup campaign last year, and who are currently working on the anniversary project about to take place this weekend. After sighing our way through Asia’s plastic bag strewn environment, this has been a welcome change. And it is encouraging to see what even a small group of volunteers can do.

Now I need to ask them – and you – about the practice of burning agricultural ground. We have seen it done all the way from Laos to Mongolia….right across Russia we saw the slow lines of ground level fire…and driving into Estonia we fought through the thickest smoke. Had this burn-off got out of control? Possible – there *were* fire appliances in attendance. Was it supposed to be so smoky? (others hadn’t been) What is it done for? Is it our equivalent of digging in potash? And if so, is our version any more ecologically sound just because we don’t witness the smoke? I really did wonder how good it is for the environment seeing the clouds of smoke hanging over the fields. But I don’t know. Can anyone enlighten me?

I wanna be a real tourist

Friday, April 24th, 2009
by Rachael St Petersburg, Russia The day is almost half over by the time we wake, organise hostel payment, make plans, research onward bus tickets and find breakfast. That’s what happens when you arrive at midnight the night before! It’s well and ... [Continue reading this entry]

the middle of nowhere

Monday, April 20th, 2009
by Rach, who is the fourth person to succumb to a bug on this train Train 5 (day 3) Siberia – Siberia - Siberia I had always imagined that fictitious place, TheMiddleOfNowhere, to be an endless billowy grass-covered steppe, a flat ... [Continue reading this entry]

at last! a real snowstorm!

Sunday, April 19th, 2009
by the Mama, who is not ready to be on the homeward leg of the trip Train 5 (day 2), travelling through Siberia We all wake at approximately the same time – that would be when the train draws to a ... [Continue reading this entry]

QUITE A SHOW!

Saturday, April 18th, 2009
by Rach Train 5 (day 1), from Mongolia to Russia Were they looking for salamis or what? Three times they unscrewed and removed the ceiling outside our compartment to check the revealed space, which would have been lucky to conceal ... [Continue reading this entry]

Trans-Salami Express

Friday, April 17th, 2009
by the lady who wants to learn to make sausage one day Train 5 Dharkan (night 1), Mongolia to the Ruskie border We haven’t even made it to the Russian border, in fact, we’ve only just boarded the train at Darkhan, ... [Continue reading this entry]

gee-up horsie tschu tschu

Wednesday, April 15th, 2009
by Rach-the-horsewoman (ha ha)  Orkhon, Mongolia Day One Approaching the horses, there is a mixture of excitement and tentativeness. City-slicker tendencies abound. How do you get on that thing anyway? What if I’m too heavy for it? What if it takes off? ... [Continue reading this entry]

gotta pick a pocket or two

Monday, April 6th, 2009
by Rachael Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia He’s still shaking as he bursts through the door and sinks onto a couch. A white bandage stands out on his Asian-coloured cheek, one lens is missing from his glasses and his girlfriend is close to tears. “What ... [Continue reading this entry]

GER: Global Education Received

Friday, April 3rd, 2009
by a very grateful Rachael Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia 60% of the city’s population is without running water…is this Africa? Nope, too cold for that. Are we in a refugee camp? No, although we are living in a tent. Is this a medieval ... [Continue reading this entry]