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a long tradition

Thursday, April 16th, 2009

sorry this is incomplete – with the strains of “if it’s worth doing, it’s worth doing properly” ringing in my ears, I publish this unproper piece! We’ll get back to it some not-so-busy-catch-up-y day.
Orkhon, Mongolia

Modern day Mongolians, even urban dwellers still seem to have a strong tie to their horseriding nomadic roots. The first family we stayed with regaled us with all sorts of stories and traditions passed down from generation to generation, many very horsie.

Apparently every Mongolian household has a silver bowl.
silver bowl, licking, carry in coat, sterilise water, detect poison, grinding down over the years etc

With the bowl, come food traditions. Every meal is started with a bowl of tea to aid digestion. Fruit is only eaten one hour before a meal, never with a meal. Meat is winter food; in summer just milk and yoghurt with bread suffice.

There are also hygiene traditions. I’m not sure now much they are a “national” trait as opposed to a particular family’s preference – certainly our second family did not appear to follow the same rituals. In mild spring time (when more bacteria are in the air than during the freeze of winter or the heat of summer) you should wash your hands three times upon coming inside.
Any time, if you cut hair or nails, the cuttings should be put in the waste water and not thrown into the rubbish – something to do with birds taking the hair and they might build a nest near your home and this brings bad luck.

Speaking of hair, there’s the Three Golden Hairs Story, as retold by ???????

whoever I can get to write it out

And because our young blondie has a thumb-sucking-at-bedtime-addiction, we were also offered a sucking thumb solution. Tie a string to the guilty thumb and attach it to one of the roof supports in the ger so she cannot get it to her mouth! As host family’s same-age daughter was sucking her thumb too, we did not put this to the test. It would have been better than the Lao rub-chicken-intestines-on-it solution or the stand-her-out-in-the-cold-until-she-stops suggestion.

Another tradition passed down now through three generations is bow making. In Mongolia there remain only two traditional bow-makers, and it just so happened that one of them lived just across the hill from the ranch. So we went to visit the real premises of www.hornbow.mn (link currently unavailable – maybe coz he’s sitting outside enjoying the sun on his front step!) 
BOW MAKING EXPEDITION – description, kids’ enthusiam matched only by the grandpa’s, a bit about the process rarara

Reminds me of the Chingghis Khan “proverb” we were told.

There were five brothers. Fighting brothers. Their wise father took a  single arrow and told them to break it. Easy. He then handed them five arrows together and repeated the instruction. Of course, this time it was impossible to break them. The moral: family must be together to be strong.

When we came out of the bow maker’s workshop, who should we see, but a proud traditionally-attired couple. Having had stones thrown at him for taking photos in these parts, Rob was hesitant to flash the camera around, but this costume was too good to not photograph, and so we tentatively asked for permission to capture this walking-along-the-street-in-daily-life-but-looking-like-a-museum-piece-couple. They were happy to oblige – on one condition. The regal man tucked his hand into his magnificent patterned coat and pulled out a tiny bright blue metallic digital camera; he wanted a photo of us too! Who would complain at that? And you should have seen his eyes bulge as the rest of the children came tripping out of the workshop – he’d have been satisfied with the two who were standing with us! From his boots to his hat, this man was completely Mongolian, a walking treasure of tradition.

gee-up horsie tschu tschu

Wednesday, April 15th, 2009

by Rach-the-horsewoman (ha ha) 
Orkhon, Mongolia

Day One
Approaching the horses, there is a mixture of excitement and tentativeness. City-slicker tendencies abound. How do you get on that thing anyway? What if I’m too heavy for it? What if it takes off? How will it know I’m coming up? What was that? Oh, always mount from the left side, sorry we didn’t know. And the kids need warning and reminding DON’T STAND BEHIND THE HORSE.
Everyone gets a turn at ambling round the yard once, even me. The children don’t realise I’ve been dreading this long-awaited-by-them day for the whole trip. They don’t realise I’ve only been on a horse once, as an eleven-year-old, and got hurled off sideways before even starting, resulting in a reluctance to remount, a reluctance which was indulged by the school teacher, who obviously was more concerned about getting the group underway than helping the scaredy-cat overcome any fear….and so the low grade apprehension has followed me for almost three decades. With a dozen pairs of eyes eagerly watching, certain my enthusiasm will soon match theirs, what alternative is there? And before you know it, you are actually enjoying it, and even urging the very relaxed snail’s pace horse up the manure hill and down the other side. You return victorious and can honestly agree it was as good as promised!

Day Two
Saddles and stirrups make mounting easier. Not that we know to only put toes in the stirrups. But with some sign language and Mongolian grunting we work it out! It’s surprising how quickly everyone feels comfortable. Even ER2 will walk around on her own and asks to go over the dung heap. The three eldest get trotting and one of them helps round up the goats – on horseback – at day’s end.

Day Three
A new horse is brought out. This one, Tractor, can be prodded into bone-jarring up and down jostling action. Everyone trots. Jboy13 urges him into a gallop, as does Kgirl10, even if unknowingly. We’re not exactly pros, but apparently our competence is sufficient to consider taking a ride across the steppe in a day or so. When we’d arrived this was a no-no, being non-riders-n-all. Excitement mounts.
Kgirl10 declares she’s found her next favourite thing in life. Even more than dolls or cooking. This is quite some statement!

Day Four
Repeat day three.

Day Five
Introduced to Blackie, the horse who takes no effort at all to get moving.

Day Six: The Real Ride
The anticipated day dawned clear blue. We would be allowed to take three saddled horses and another pulling a wagon out of the gates – under escort, of course; two experienced Mongolian riders and more dogs than you could shake a stick at.
Out of the gate, up the street, beside the river, under the bridge (duck duck rubber duck duck), across the shimmering green, up a small sand hill, along the road (don’t think tarmac or asphalt or concrete or even cobbled – it’s just a sandy stony rutted dirt track, but it IS the road). Not that we were bound by it. We could ride anywhere – for miles and miles was tussocky grass, mostly brown but just starting to show signs of greening. It was dotted with an occasional ger compound, a herd of goats and sheep, a handful of trees. And that was it. Just grass and mountains and us.
Oh, and some old dead-but-still-prickly gorse. How do we know about that? Because Lboy8 landed in it, face first. I avoided the prickles, but got dragged along the rocky ground for a few bumps before managing to disentangle foot from stirrup.
We had stopped to do a child-swap on horses, and instead of a little girl in the saddle in front of me, Lboy8 was hoisted up behind. Immediately the horse got jittery. Ignoring that, and in boyish eagerness, the new passenger requested that we go fast to be at the front. In responsible motherly fashion (or because I was feeling distinctly nervous at Tractor’s twitching), I suggested a few minutes of gentle trotting to get a feel for my new swaying passenger. At precisely that moment Tractor spun around and bolted. And we fell off. Simple as that. Lboy8 retreated to the wagon and I got back on. That’s what you’re supposed to do, isn’t it?
Apart from one horse stumbling, Grandpa being thrown leaping nimbly from the cart at a particularly bumpy section, and some raw chaffed legs where the stirrup straps rubbed, the rest of The Ride proceeded without incident.
We made it to the top of one of the smaller-but-made-us-puff hills in the far distance and were rewarded with sweeping vistas in all directions.
Take a look with us at the Back of Beyond:

 

 

 

 

 

 

staggering

Saturday, March 28th, 2009
by Rach Beijing, China

 

Badaling is apparently where most people view The Great Wall from. We went in the opposite direction to a less-populous more run-down section, one with the promise of a ten kilometre ... [Continue reading this entry]

hostel in the hutong

Friday, March 27th, 2009
by the accommodation-finder Beijing, China hutong = narrow alleyway And there are a couple of thousand of them criss-crossing the city, warrens filled with an eclectic mixture of Qing dynasty courtyard houses, modern brick outhouses (many of the homes do not have ... [Continue reading this entry]

One Big Wall (and not the great one)

Tuesday, March 24th, 2009
by Superwoman Xi’an, China As well as being the most complete city wall that has survived in China, Xi’an’s wall is one of the largest ancient military defensive systems in the world. And today after one cold false start we set ... [Continue reading this entry]

Chinese takeaways

Saturday, March 21st, 2009
By Rach, who is trying to make sure everyone eats enough veges Xi-an, China At home to eat Chinese (unless you cook it yourself) usually means chow mein or chop suey with a choice of black bean beef, chilli lemon chicken ... [Continue reading this entry]

*unedumacated*

Wednesday, March 18th, 2009
by Rach Shanghai, China

 

When we were planning our northern China leg we had no idea what there was to see or do in Shanghai. In fact, if it were not for the fact that ... [Continue reading this entry]

* vibrant * pulsating * electric *

Monday, March 16th, 2009
By Speedygonzales from Hong Kong to China on overnight train, heading north “Vibrant, pulsating and electric.” So said a family member of Hong Kong. Weaving through the evening crowd to the Night Market last night, it was all of the above. Fairy ... [Continue reading this entry]

Museum Mecca

Sunday, March 15th, 2009
by Rachael, who enjoys history much more than science Hong Kong

You name it, there’s a museum about it here. From Dr Sun Yat Sen to Coastguard Services, from police to science to history. And ... [Continue reading this entry]

Cheapskates Do The Peak

Saturday, March 14th, 2009
by Rach Hong Kong We told you the other day we’d probably make it up Victoria Peak. We also told you we’d more than likely do it on the cheap. And we did. Instead of taking the iconic cable-car, we ... [Continue reading this entry]