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Wet, wet, wet.

Wednesday, September 26th, 2012

by MamaBear

Day 18: Total distance 22 kms. Total ascent: TBC
Weather: Raining, windy and cold. Temperature: 12

An adventure may be worn as a muddy spot or it may be worn as a proud insignia. It is the woman wearing it who makes it the one thing or the other. –Norma Shearer

Quite possibly today will go down as the most memorable for us in Spain…and days do not become memorable by being easy. It was a day of adventure and many muddy spots, but we will wear it as a proud insignia and in years to come will refer back to it…..do you remember the day we walked in the rain? Do you remember how we started in the almost-dark trying to avoid puddles on the track? (if only we’d known what was ahead we might not have bothered!)

Spain Sept 25 006

Do you remember that as the day progressed and the rain drove down we watched trickling rivulets turn into fast-flowing streams? Do you remember how Grandpa missed the turning and I had to pick my way through mud to call him back and then trudge through a river of mud to see if the others were also ahead? Do you remember how freezing cold we were, how our fingers would not work when we stopped for lunch? But wasn’t that shelter a welcome sight?

2012-09-25 Jaala Spain (18)

Remember how we got so cold because we stopped, and when we set off again our feet ached, but no-one said anything, because we knew if we didn’t go on to the next village we would only have a bag of snacks for dinner. Remember how we laughed full of “that’s how I felt” when we all realised later we had all been the same.

As miserable-ish as the walking was, it was great to experience the famed Galician rain that sets in steady and doesn’t stop. It was fascinating to see the ruts in the track, ruts which we had earlier remarked must really run with water when it rains – and they do. As do the stone gutters down the middle of hamlet streets.

2012-09-25 Jaala Spain (16)

I suspect we walked through some pretty places today. Judging by the eucalyptus leaves, spiky chestnuts and pine needles underfoot, there were tall trees towering above us….but we didn’t look up much. Head down, eyes on the path picking out the least treacherous option for foot placement, we shivered on, only vaguely aware of the greater surroundings. Fortunately Jboy16 stopped occasionally to snap a picture so we could, at the end of the day, see where we had been.

2012-09-25 Jaala Spain (6)

2012-09-25 Jaala Spain (8)

2012-09-25 Jaala Spain (10)

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2012-09-25 Jaala Spain (12)

From the vantage point of our first “pension” (our preferred albergue was closed for two days and the remainder were completo before we made it to the head of the queue), having had warm showers and facing the delightful prospect of sleeping without snorers, the memory of sodden stick-to-your-legs-shorts and wet undies is starting to fade, the memory of 30*C days just a week ago is warming up the 20 degree temperature drop and we are wearing our adventure as a proud insignia.

PS We were all surprised at the GPS reading today…..although wet, it was not a difficult day and we *easily* walked the distance and could have gone on further (even Grandpa reckoned he could have)….if only we were just beginning instead of nearly finishing – imagine how far we could go!

2012-09-25 Jaala Spain (14)

Spanish lessons in Arzua,Spain

Tuesday, September 25th, 2012

Day 17: Total distance 14.5 kms. Total ascent: 249m
Weather: Raining, windy and cool. Temperature: 13

gato, cat…”
perro, dog…”
dos pies, two feet…Good!
The children sat around the table attempting to twist their tongue around the sounds for over an hour and a half. One of the young Spanish pilgrims had offered to teach them some Spanish in exchange for some English. I am not sure how much English he gleaned in between the cackles of laughter and amusement as the children attempted to expand their Spanish vocabulary. Soon several others were hanging off the stairway joining in the conversation.  Language acquisition aside, what was precious was watching our youngest children (and eventually the older ones too) interact with this young Spaniard, learning a few words, the difference between Galician and the other three dialects, and a fair bit of cultural insights to go with it all (the main ones relate to food…….churros that we have been looking for are mainly found in the south; paella must be eaten at lunchtime, not dinnertime as we requested; gazpacho turns into something else if you add bread to it – and always add olive oil to everything; pork from pigs eating acorns is absolutely the best…..) This is the beauty of travelling like this and staying in a smaller albergue – the serendipitous meetings and relationships that come together. Pilgrims staying in a smaller albergue generally tend to be more interested in the other pilgrims and their stories than in the larger albergues. It is surely no different to what often manifests in small village life compared with city living – the smaller communities just seem to more easily encourage relationship and interest in your neighbours. A gross generalisation, yes… but is it not so often true?

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Another illustration of this occurred at dinner. Tomorrow (by the calendar) is Jgirl17s birthday – soon to be Jgirl18! We managed to find an ice-cream and sponge gateau in the supermarket, so we decided to celebrate her birthday early… or as Jgirl14 noted, “it is already her birthday back in New Zealand!”. We  started to sing “happy birthday”, and everyone else in the dining room stopped, started to join in, clapping, and then cheered loudly at the end of the song. As people left the dining room, they came over and wished Jgirl17 a “happy birthday”.

Spain Sept 24 Arzua 021

This closer sense of “togetherness” even extended to when one of the men lost a pair of socks off the communal washing line. He started to ask FadaBear a question in Spanish, which quickly resulted in the young Spanish teacher being called in to translate. When news got out that a pair of socks was “missing”, the whole dorm was involved in a conversation as to who was most likely to have mistakenly acquired said socks. There was also a fair bit of joking with the poor guy who lost his socks, MamaBear joining in offering him a “spare” pair that we had. All good natured fun, over the simplest of situations – but indicative of the comfortable feeling amongst the pilgrims that we often did not experience when staying in the larger albergue. This was evident today even as we queued to get into the albergue and we were engaged in a range of conversations with Spaniards, Brits and Canadians. Sometimes, small is good (as long as it is not your serving of birthday cake!). Adios.

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Spain Sept 24 Arzua 013

The rain in Spain…

Monday, September 24th, 2012
Day 16: Total distance 17.5 kms. Total ascent: 164m
Weather: Raining, windy and cool. Temperature: 19

As we waited in line for the albergue to open, we first smelt the delicious aroma of freshly ... [Continue reading this entry]

Surprise on the road to Palas de Rei

Sunday, September 23rd, 2012

Day 15: Total distance 17.5 kms. Total ascent: m
Weather: Sunny and hot. Temperature: 28

How often is it in life that the unexpected changes to our plans often bring the most rewarding ... [Continue reading this entry]

Quiz Results from Hospital

Saturday, September 22nd, 2012
Day 14: Total distance 12kms. Total ascent: 267m
Weather: Cloudy and cool. Temperature: 23

Thankfully Hospital da Cruz is the name of the hamlet we are staying in and there have not been any ... [Continue reading this entry]

A Short Spanish Quiz from Portomarin

Friday, September 21st, 2012

Day 13: Total distance 10kms. Total descent: 316m
Weather: Clear and hot. Temperature: 28+

The countryside in this part of Spain is quite similar to New Zealand – rolling hills, lots of ferns ... [Continue reading this entry]

Short hop to Ferreiros

Thursday, September 20th, 2012

Day 12: Total distance 14kms. Total ascent: 258m 
Weather: Clear and warm. Temperature: 25

Over 100,000 people walk the Camino every year. That is an amazing number of pilgrims to shelter and feed everyday, and explains the fantastic ... [Continue reading this entry]

Urgenxia

Tuesday, September 18th, 2012

0km on The Way, a few round town this rest day….by MamaBear

Are we not incredibly blessed? I couldn’t help but think this all day yesterday. For a start we are here in Spain walking together as a family, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Not according to plan, but we arrive in Sarria

Monday, September 17th, 2012
Day 10: Total distance 25kms. Total ascent: 258m Total descent 394m Weather: Cloudy and warm. Temperature: 27 It does seem that whenever we plan a “short rest day” that events conspire against us! Today was no exception, as we had originally ... [Continue reading this entry]

Trek to Triacastela – well worth the dinner!

Monday, September 17th, 2012
Day 9: Total distance 21kms. Total ascent: 234m Total descent 760m Weather: Cloudy and warm. Temperature: 25 degrees We were unsure about today for a number of reasons – firstly because we had scheduled in our longest walk yet – 21 km ... [Continue reading this entry]