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different

Saturday, July 25th, 2009

by Rach
Quend-Plage-les-Pins, France

“I wouldn’t bother travelling to Europe; it’s too similar to home.”
How many times have we heard that?
Often it is said by people who, by virtue of the proximity of their home town to The Continent, have the opportunity to easily zip to Spain, Greece, Luxemburg or Egypt if they so desire. For a Kiwi to go ANYWHERE there has to be a sea crossing, invariably (or at least, most cheaply) involving an aeroplane and many hours.

It is true, that in many respects, Asia is more different to our daily life in Kiwi-land. Africa would be more exotic. But Europe cannot be said to be NOT DIFFERENT.

I had heard the above quote so many times in England that I was surprised by the difference our first day in France.

For a start, the sun was shining. HALLELUJAH!!!! The sky was a deep blue early in the morning and the barely discernible breeze was warm.

The architecture was different – different to home, different to Asia and different to England. Even in the short drive from ferry to sleeping spot we had noticed this – and that was in the dark! Apart from being newer than England, there were many square houses with 45 degree pitched roofs mingling amongst six-or-seven storey apartment blocks and communities of houses circularly clustered around a grassed or concreted open space. The many colours of paint made me realise in retrospect, that England had been predominantly white or stone-coloured.
The roads were different too. For a start you could see – no hedges or overhanging trees obscuring your vision. At roundabouts we had to remember to look left and turn right. And the roads were littered with signs; big ones for motorised vehicles, miniature ones for bicycles. The signs informed us we could go at 50 – and we had to remember that was fifty as per our speedo, not an adjusted-to-miles fifty! (Actually, in the case of my speedo, it’s fifty plus ten percent to arrive at real-moving-speed. You get that with old vans!)
Many of the signs lining the streets were unintelligible to non-French-speaking moi. And when people opened their mouths I felt even more alienated. I don’t just mean the frogs, either. The two men of our party have taken to parlez-ing francois….except when we want directions to a supermarket. That’s still my job <wink> Good thing I understand hand signals and can nod a lot! Actually, I broke into German to ask the lady to wait a moment and called Grandpa to help – he may not have spoken French for sixty-something years, but I *never* have! Within a day we are all picking it up though – with Rob insisting we “Ecoutez et repetez!” we can’t help but learn “My name is…” and “Where is the toilet?”, not that we would understand if anyone dared to answer us! And quickly we learn PAIN is nothing sore, fromage blanc is delicious and white, and as we pass over “Le petite pont” I understand what my primary school teacher had us singing all those years ago; sur le pont d’Avignon. I even find Avignon on the map later. France sure ain’t New Zealand.
Tomorrow I’ll be sloshing red wine into a meat sauce (for nachos – OK, so not very French, but we will have had croissants for breakfast and pain campagne for lunch)…and y’know what? It feels so much more *French* to perform this little action in France than in Kiwi suburbia!
Were we speaking of different? You kiwis should see the supermakets here. Well, the one we went into anyway. We had thought Sainsbury’s in England were big. This one was GINORMOUS. (To be fair to the exotic-difference seekers, we visited an even bigger one in Singapore – it was spread across many floors and was a jumbled conglomeration of a variety of products – rice sitting next to flowers for example, or jam with the potato chips – and the aisles were narrow and the shelves were high and the faces were all a different colour – and so, yes, it was further along the difference cline….but Carrefour still overwhelmed us in France.) It overwhelmed and it gave us a sense of exactly where we were. Where else would you “buy ten baguettes and get one free”? Even we don’t need THAT many!! There were two whole bays just of Camembert cheese, never mind all the other varieties. There were so many pastries, we ended up simply buying the first ones we saw – how else is one to choose?
This supermarket had well over twenty wide and long aisles at the front of the shop, an open area in the middle and another twenty-something aisles towards the back of the shop, then deli counters all the way along the back. As if this was not big enough, there were mirrors at either end to give the illusion of being even bigger still. But while the shop might have been big, many of the prices were little. Instead of parting with a couplea quid for half a dozen tomatoes, we could buy a big bag for just over a euro. Watermelons 2.50, French sticks a few cents, even if you bought only four!

It took not long to decide that even if others might find France to be too familiar, we were going to love it.

Time on the road: need to check Jboy13’s record!
Distance covered: 97km

one last day, one last castle

Friday, July 24th, 2009

by Rachael, who feels a bit sad at missing Scotland and Wales, but eager to embrace the sun
Calais, France

That was our plan anyway.
But first of all we had to suffer One Last English Rain – well, one downpour sufficiently heavy to confine us all to one van for half an hour until it eased off enough for occupants of The Other Van to find their travelling seats for the day. The rain itself would continue for much of the day!

Then (surprise!!) we encountered One Last English Traffic Jam. We were barely out of Folkestone, we’d just got through the tunnel and had started to crawl up the hill, when everything ground to a halt. Detectives in our midst surmised there had been an accident when an ambulance wriggled through the two stalled lanes of traffic. But the radio announced, “Chaos in Dover!” Yes, all the way to Dover was a thousands-and-thousands-of-vehicles traffic jam. Later in the day we would be atop the Dover hill and see it still stretching back around the coastline. The computers at the ferry terminal had gone down at seven in the morning, and twelve hours later they would still be playing catch-up, clearing the backlog. And not surprising it should take so long – look how many people had passed through Europe’s busiest port yesterday:

58,083 passengers
14,102 cars (including motorhomes)
8,148 lorries
243 coaches

So how did we manage to not be in it? One Last English Detour, of course! We zipped off the main road at the first available exit and back-roaded it all the way to Dover.

Straight on up to our One Last English Castle (in the pouring rain and howling wind – the wind, oh the wind – I watched it blow a toddler over and the children enjoyed standing on the edge of the cliff, leaning towards the drop, being supported by only the force of the wind…..until I saw them, that is! Generally speaking, I believe in taking calculated risks, but those kids got their mathematics wrong)

The castle provided us with One Last Formal Learning Opportunity – a most informative guided tour of the secret tunnels that were used during World War II and more recently during the Cold War, some having been first excavated centuries before – and One Last Informal Romp Around the Castle, no less educational.


(yes, the rain finally  cleared)

Finally One Last English Meal. Can you guess what?

Followed by treacle tart as we sat in the queue for the ferry.  We were fortunate to be slotted onto an earlier sailing than the one we had reservations for – had we booked the one we were put on, it would have cost us an extra thirty quid per vehicle, so, as per the website instructions, we had booked the 9:30 sailing and turned up early to see what would happen. The news was all good and we arrived in Calais well before the expected midnight. The motorhome park near the ferry was full so we found a quiet street and went to sleep, hoping Monsieur Gendarme would not move us on!

Time on the road: need to check Jboy13’s record!
Distance covered: 85km plus a ferry crossing

last night in england….

Thursday, July 23rd, 2009
Yes, it’s our last night. It’s 9:30pm so we still have 24 hours here, but this will be our final English resting place – aptly, a Sainsbury’s carpark. As we have driven southwards the past few days we have mused over ... [Continue reading this entry]

a warwick, a warwick!!

Wednesday, July 22nd, 2009
by a tired, too-lazy-to-write Rach (a picture is worth a thousand words, so here's a few million!) Stratford-Upon-Avon, England It’s the Disneyland of British Castles and Just As Much Fun. We were there when the portcullis was raised in the morning and ... [Continue reading this entry]

another day, another (unexpected) castle

Tuesday, July 21st, 2009
by Rach back at the couchsurfer’s lane in Stratford-Upon-Avon, England You wake up almost at today’s destination coz you travelled so much further than planned yesterday. All the same, there are a few miles to cover and just for a change, ... [Continue reading this entry]

what changed?

Monday, July 20th, 2009
by the always-getting-older Rachael Stafford (having planned to stop in Chester, but the castle was closed so we moved on) Is it our age? Back then we were just twenty….now we are almost double that. Or was it just London? Last ... [Continue reading this entry]

william, beatrix, charlotte and arthur

Sunday, July 19th, 2009
by the older four children (edited by Rach, who took excerpts straight from their journals) Windermere, England What do those four above have in common? Anybody know? Read on to see…. Jgirl14 starts the story…. Shivering in the early morning wind that seemed to ... [Continue reading this entry]

from wet-n-windy to windermere

Saturday, July 18th, 2009
by Rach somewhere in The Lake District, England “No need to go any further, chaps, let’s build ourselves a wall right here,” declared Hadrian one wet and windy day. No history book will tell you this, but I reckon he had ... [Continue reading this entry]

sleeping gypsies

Friday, July 17th, 2009
by Rach, who thought she might be concerned about sleeping in remote places, but who has felt totally safe so far at the end of the causeway opposite Holy Island, England

We met a few Poms in Holland. They all ... [Continue reading this entry]

fat

Thursday, July 16th, 2009
by a ranting member of the lunatic fringe Lindisfarne, England According to newly-released statistics, New Zealand is almost leading the world in obesity statistics (apparently currently coming in third). I wonder if we would have noticed England’s obesity if we had ... [Continue reading this entry]