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do not worry about what you will eat nor what deodorant you will use in your armpits

Tuesday, March 10th, 2009

by the parents
Hong Kong

“Should we pick up some food to take with us for tomorrow?”
Ever since spending the good part of a day looking for food in Kampot, we have usually taken an emergency one meal supply with us when we go somewhere new – not that we have actually needed it. This time we had the just-arrived-with Grandpa pottle of honey, jar of vegemite, bars of chocolate and hunk of Christmas cake (we didn’t get any at the real Christmastime and uber-enjoyed this surprise portion)….this sounded like a good spread to me, but Rob had sensibilities like loaves of bread in mind. Just in case there would be no food, no shops where we were going near the end of the eastern train line.

hahaha

On arrival, trying to escape from the train station, we found ourselves in a shopping centre rivalling any kiwi ones for size……when we managed to extricate ourselves from this, we walked along the road only to discover another multi-storey building devoted entirely to food. This, however, was not the end…..nearby there was a square with food stalls and shops clustered around and furthermore there were streets branching off this to all points of the compass with more….you guessed it….food and shops.

What we haven’t been able to find, though, is baking soda.
In our couchsurfing host’s cupboard is a big box full of it, so we asked him where to buy the stuff…and got drawn in to the conversation about what we use it for, given that we obviously don’t bake whilst on the road. His girlfriend uses it for cleaning and, shock-horror, in her armpits…and so he was not at all surprised at our (Rach’s:-) added Rob) identical and even-more uses.
But then an environmentalist organic-bread-baking vegan (with a pantry full of quinoa and fenugreek) Indian expat professor doing research at the university by day and playing unicycle hockey on Friday nights, who has no qualms about having three generations of family descend on him for three nights, is perhaps not going to be surprised by any of our quirks!
And so, following Mr Couchsurfing Host’s directions, the two older generations went on a BakingSodaFindingMission.

Normally, taking a trip down to the mall just to get a box of baking soda would not rank high in my (Rob’s) priority list, but when you are in strange lands, strange things happen. Again, we are struck by just how big Hong Kong is and how many people there are…. everywhere! Tai Po is humming, and three MTR stops away Sha Tin is also humming. The “mall” is in fact a sprawling mega-centre, eight levels across two large wings – each wing being at least twice as big as your typical kiwi mall. Apparently it covers a full square kilometre. And every shop is full of people, most of them clutching bags of purchases. Didn’t anyone tell these folks there is a global recession starting to bite? 

We manage to find the “super”market. Three of them, in fact. But can we find baking soda? Nope, not even with specific instructions as to where we should be able to purchase it. You CAN buy small jars of vegemite for HK $38 (= NZ$9.82) Ouch. Or small jars of macadamia nuts for $95. You gotta be kidding! How about a 200g tub of organic butter for $70? But no baking soda. Oh, not exactly true….we find a small 100g tub for HK$25.  I don’t think so! I’ll have to ask our host tonight about Hong Kong salaries! So, to cut a long afternoon story short, we didn’t find baking soda, but we did come away scratching our head at the price of commodities here in Hong Kong. You gotta be one well-heeled puppy to play in this playground. Not the place for penny-pinching backpackers like DaBears.

PS. We didn’t go in, but here is, apparently, the best New Zealand shop. I guess it’s full of things we have never seen in NZ – like the kiwi berries we saw at the market yesterday. Is it just that we shop at a too-small local vege shop and there really are these little fruits for sale in NZ, or are none of you fellow kiwis acquainted with kiwi berries either?

Hong Kong Island Tour – The North Side

Monday, March 9th, 2009

by the mother, who found the nearly-3-year-old to be quite heavy after a few hours in a wrap
Hong Kong

When you come to Hong Kong you can take a tour in an open-top bus and it really does look like a cool way to see the city. But it costs over US$100 for two adults and two children. So, as per usual, we made our own tour.

Starting in the New Territories (simply because that’s where we are staying), we took the train in to Downtown Kowloon.

 

We walked down bustling Nathan Road (where we had been staying in a hyperbolic “hotel” in the not-aptly-named Chungking Mansions), where we did not purchase fake watches or handbags or have suits tailor-made……we walked briskly past The Peninsula, not even stopping to take a photo, because we were heading for the Ruskie Consulate, which we knew would close at midday (we had a spot of housekeeping to attend to as well as play tourists this day). Our fast feet flew towards the Star Ferry Terminal and raced up the gangway with not a moment to spare.

Over the other side of the harbour, leaving behind memories of Chungking Mansion’s lifts (there is a permanent queue outside these laboriously-slow-in-spite-of-apparently-being-recently-upgraded lifts, which are packed full of people day and night….our rooms being on the seventeenth floor – athough the lift only went to the sixteenth and we would walk the final flight of urine-smelling stairs – we always had plenty of time to read the notice telling you not to panic if the lift got stuck…..), we entered one of many spacious glittering mirrored lifts that sped us to our destination – 21 floors up in just as many seconds. And just as well it was quick. We ended up leaving the building at precisely 12 noon, after a much more more friendly encounter than our Russian experiences in Cambodia. What’s more, they verbally approved our applications on the spot before taking our money. We just have to wait a week for the paperwork to be completed (or pay an extra $500 per person for the speedy service – nah, we’ll just spend the money on HK sightseeing thanks very much).

Having already trained and walked and ferried and fancy-lift-ed, we now spotted an open-top bus well, we did see one, but we hopped aboard a double-decker tram. For over 100 years trams have been running 30km along the island, and at only $2 per adult no matter how far you go, it’s the most reasonably-priced transport around.

Out came the Lonely Planet walking tour guide. Guide is the operative word here – we read the details and then wandered our own way, zipping up streets that took our fancy and detouring to find toilets. But we did take in the spot the British flag was first planted in 1841, the ginseng sellers (sniff deeply as you walk past them), a fish-on-the-road-sellers, highrises (could you possibly avoid them?), inner-city apartments, Ladder Street (Jgirl14 and Kboy11 ran to the top while the littlies played at a nearby playground), Hollywood Road, an antiques and curios market, the food market of Graham Street falling down the hill….by now we were well off the LP tour and so abandoned it altogether and headed for the longest outdoor escalator in the world. At purportedly 800m long, we were expecting to see a l–o–n–g staircase rolling up the hill, but actually, it is a series of many shorter runs. An impressive feat, nonetheless, one that runs downhill before 10:30am and uphill the rest of the day. At the top we could have turned around and counted the number of steps downwards (and Jboy13 is sure to have done so <wink>), but we took an alternative DOWN DOWN DOWNhill route and wound through and under traffic and past the botanical gardens instead, eventually coming out as instinct predicted we would, not too far from the central ferry terminus.

Another ferry, another couple-a-kilometres walk, another train, still more walking….and we were back at Tai Po market choosing dinner, walking home and crashing into bed.

By the way, the cost for the section the open-top bus would have taken was HK$32.50 – or US$4.19 for the eleven of us! Plus we got to ride a tram.
(Admittedly we did not get entry to Victoria Peak, but we didn’t have time for that anyway – perhaps we’ll do it another day, and we’re bound to walk one way, because we value the exercise do everything on the cheap.)

If you would like to read Dad’s account of the day, you can find it here.
In spite of his reservations about blogging in general, and his reservations about a nearly-80-year-old’s ability to wrestle with technology, he has become a blogger 😉

08/03/09

Sunday, March 8th, 2009
by Rach New Territories, Hong Kong We left Downtown Hong Kong behind.

Headed to Tai Po Station on a train. (Had an interesting conversation with fellow passengers, but no time to divulge details tonight.)

[Continue reading this entry]

different, but familiar

Friday, March 6th, 2009
by Rachael Hong Kong We continue to notice differences in Hong Kong, comparing this new experience to others we have had in the now-five-months away. "There are no motorbikes, Dad." That's true, and much less honking than other places too. What's more, the vehicles ... [Continue reading this entry]

chalk and cheese

Thursday, March 5th, 2009
by Rach Guangzhou, China to Hong Kong

 

We went from Chinese rice porridge for breakfast (just like they've been eating for centuries) to the most modern of cuisines - if you can call it that ... [Continue reading this entry]

spotted in China

Sunday, March 1st, 2009
by Rach Guangzhou, China

(or security guard, anyway!)

today.....just like centuries ago.....mud brick tiled house, cart, garden, pump....

Much nicer than any of ... [Continue reading this entry]

travelling in the twenty-first century

Thursday, February 26th, 2009
by a tired Mama Yangshuo to Guangzhou, China Take a red plastic bag that's hanging beside the door to put your shoes in before you creep along to the end where you are going to spend the rest of the night. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Fans of Fuli

Tuesday, February 24th, 2009
by Rachael Fuli, Yangshuo surrounds, China

 

The tout didn't try to sell us his guiding services when we said we were cycling to Fuli village. Accepting that we would go it alone, he just advised ... [Continue reading this entry]

38…39…

Saturday, February 21st, 2009

by Rob     Yangshuo, China Yangshuo is a glitzy, boutique tourist-town for sure. However, it is also a fantastic launching pad into rural China. So today, we ate an early breakfast (yes, we were eating before nine today LOL!) and sorted ... [Continue reading this entry]

toot toot

Tuesday, February 17th, 2009
by Rach Nanning to Guilin, China I'm not sure what the first class seats are like, because we bought "hard seats". They were nice. Soft, even. And the train hardly appeared to move, it was so smooth - although the scenery ... [Continue reading this entry]