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another day, another (unexpected) castle

Tuesday, July 21st, 2009

by Rach
back at the couchsurfer’s lane in Stratford-Upon-Avon, England

You wake up almost at today’s destination coz you travelled so much further than planned yesterday. All the same, there are a few miles to cover and just for a change, it’s raining again. You zoom zoom zoom along the M6 until toll booth signs appear, at which point you join everyone else exiting the good road and not-so-zooming along a parallel one for no cost. It was more interesting driving anyway!

Noon time and it’s still pouring and there is nowhere to stop and so we investigate another castle near where we are going. It holds the promise of a carpark to lunch in, an indoor exhibition to stretch the legs in and being English Heritage, it’s free to us…so we drive on for another hour.

Kenilworth Castle. A real introduction to Elizabethan England. All castles are not the same, and this one has a particularly fascinating history, relayed to us via audio tour, informative signboards, a couple of exhibitions and a box full of dress-ups (very different to the knights and ladies ones!) There was also a meticulously researched Elizabethan Garden, and as I was the only one of us to listen to the full commentary, I came away with the richest experience (although they, perhaps, had the most fun chasing through the maze like symmetry). To be honest, I did not think it would be all that enthralling to hear about flowers and statues and what the Elizabethans treasured most in their gardens….but actually it was. And I learnt a lot. I’ll slip snippets of info into future conversations so everyone else can benefit too <wink>

Actually, it’s been interesting to watch everyone’s knowledge grow – the first ruins we encountered were little more than a pile of bricks. Now the kids can zip around surmising that here was an oven, there a cauldron, here a garderobe, there a drain…..and more often than not, their guesses are confirmed in the audio tour – a self-checking test if you like! They are also learning words like illegitimate and execution, and concepts like families having fourteen children and the reality of siege and warfare. Every castle, every garden has its own stories, its own lessons to share.

Just another day. A special day.

Time on the road: need to check Jboy13’s record!
Distance covered: 108km

what changed?

Monday, July 20th, 2009

by the always-getting-older Rachael
Stafford (having planned to stop in Chester, but the castle was closed so we moved on)

Is it our age? Back then we were just twenty….now we are almost double that. Or was it just London? Last time we were in the UK we spent most of our short time in London and we found the general populace to be something between surly and distant. In Soho we picked an apple off a barrow to buy and were immediately instructed to put it back, “You might touch where you come from, but not here!” Shop assistants from whom we desired service sat behind their counters saying not a word. Some purchases we made with nary a “May I help you?” or “Thank you, have a nice day” passing their lips. They didn’t even tell us the total we needed to pay, instead just taking our money and returning the change to our outstretched hands. Maybe London is still like that – we won’t know.
But it is not the experience we have had this time. We have found people to open, warm and friendly, even jovial. Just take today, for example.
The day started at Sainsbury’s, gathering a few provisions – three jars of marmalade for Grandpa, ten jars of curry sauce (at only 5p, they were a bargain too good to leave on the shelf), four packets of pita breads etc etc. The man in front of me in the queue turned, and with a grin on his face, enquired, “Setting in for a siege are we?”
”No, but we are off to a castle…” and so began a conversation that did not finish until his purchase was complete.
Then it was the shop assistant’s turn: “What’s all this for?” Of course, some people might be offended at her apparent nosiness, but as I was at that moment thinking about friendliness, I called it *interested*. Which is just as well, because her questions came thick and fast: where have you been? what on earth have you found to do for so long in England? isn’t it boring? what was Asia like? what’s been your favourite place? where do you stay? when will you go home? how long have you been away? how long did you have to save up for a trip like that? did you say you were travelling with children? what, eight? And So On.
Much more engaging than the early nineties London crowd!

Later in the afternoon we spied a sign to a staircase lock, something Grandpa had talked about, and so we backtracked to take a look. The bridge we needed to cross required this sign:
Squeezed up next to a hedge, we left the vans to watch the lock proceedings – this was even more exciting than the Dutch ones, the drop between locks being at least a couple of metres, and there being a queue of canal boats waiting to move through in both directions.
But as interesting as it all was, the highlight was the fact that there was a toilet dumping facility and both our loos were FULL. Into the narrowboat hire store I tripped, Rob believing requests for services are more likely to be positively acknowledged if a female asks (and to be fair to him, as much as I hate doing it, I have to admit I have never been denied, but he has…so maybe there’s something in his theory).
“Are you the boss?” I ask.
”I sure am and I make all the decision too,” (yay, he’s the jovial sort)
”I noticed you have a dumping station…what would be the chances of a travelling family using it? We’re in motorhomes and our portapotties are full.”
”Well, I dunno,” he hesitates, putting on a hard-to-believe scowl.
”It’s gonna cost ya, really cost ya.”
”You name the price – it’s probably not going to be too much – yeah, we’re that desperate!”
”Don’t be silly luv, the door’s open. Glad to help.”
”Most obliged. Thanks a million.”
See, they’re friendly out here in the country!

8pm at the service station, having just finished dinner and hoping we’re not going to need to travel too much further before finding somewhere to stop, we’re filling up with water from the HGV water hose. A truckie saunters over, can in hand.
“Guten Abend!” He obviously read our number plates!
Jboy13 pulls the hose from our van and offers to fill his can for him. Such a simple act of consideration was permission for the guy to stand there giving us his full life history (went to Australia in the seventies), asking about our vans (and giving us redundant information of where to buy them in England), telling us his future hopes (wants to go to Canada, and 11-year-old son and 13-year-old daughter are keen, 19-year-old daughter has just started nursing training, but would follow later….but the missus isn’t keen, so they’ll be staying here)…and that’s not the end. We discuss bio-fuels, world hunger, a guy in Australia who used to run his Ford Falcon on water (had a tank on the roof), water rates in Oz and England, the legality of sleeping on the side of the road (or not), the history of trucks with sleeping cabs in England….you get the idea. Friendly. Not at all distant, certainly not surly.

Time on the road: need to check Jboy13’s record!
Distance covered: 159km

william, beatrix, charlotte and arthur

Sunday, July 19th, 2009
by the older four children (edited by Rach, who took excerpts straight from their journals) Windermere, England What do those four above have in common? Anybody know? Read on to see…. Jgirl14 starts the story…. Shivering in the early morning wind that seemed to ... [Continue reading this entry]

from wet-n-windy to windermere

Saturday, July 18th, 2009
by Rach somewhere in The Lake District, England “No need to go any further, chaps, let’s build ourselves a wall right here,” declared Hadrian one wet and windy day. No history book will tell you this, but I reckon he had ... [Continue reading this entry]

sleeping gypsies

Friday, July 17th, 2009
by Rach, who thought she might be concerned about sleeping in remote places, but who has felt totally safe so far at the end of the causeway opposite Holy Island, England

We met a few Poms in Holland. They all ... [Continue reading this entry]

fat

Thursday, July 16th, 2009
by a ranting member of the lunatic fringe Lindisfarne, England According to newly-released statistics, New Zealand is almost leading the world in obesity statistics (apparently currently coming in third). I wonder if we would have noticed England’s obesity if we had ... [Continue reading this entry]

good for a giggle

Wednesday, July 15th, 2009
by Rach, who does not like driving in the pouring rain with useless wiper blades that leave a smear at eye level and make her hunch over the steering wheel like a granny to see beneath it! beside a cricket ... [Continue reading this entry]

learning in pictures

Tuesday, July 14th, 2009
by Mama/Writer/Educator on a quiet country lane near Aydon, sheep bleating in the field beside us, England A day at Corbridge Roman Town, excavated in the last hundred years, having fallen into disuse 1600 or so years ago, provided possibilities to ... [Continue reading this entry]

out the front window of the back van

Monday, July 13th, 2009
written by the mother - travelling photographs by the eldest son (fort photos by mother) On the outskirts of Hexham again, back in the same spot as two nights ago Today’s blog post is brought to you courtesy of Jboy13, who sat ... [Continue reading this entry]

Hadrian’s Quiz

Sunday, July 12th, 2009
by Rachael Birdoswald Fort, Hadrian’s Wall, England True or false?
  1. Hadrian built the wall.
  2. It took seven years to build most of the wall.
  3. Hadrian’s wall was over 6,000km long.
  4. Roman soldiers patrolled and maintained the wall for almost 600 years.
  5. The wall was built to ... [Continue reading this entry]