BootsnAll Travel Network



Archive for the 'postcard: China' Category

« Home

finally chilly

Thursday, March 26th, 2009

by the Mama, who loves to have an excuse to wear a shawl
Beijing, China

 

There’s nothing quite like admiring a sunrise and feeling like you have a head start on the day. And nothing quite like watching the glow spread across the sky and touching your hand to the window….sun shining, but COLD outside. At last.
By 7am we were disembarking into the fridge, enjoying the novelty of a single digit temperature. With thoughts of *stillCOLDERplease* on the horizon, we set out to buy our onward train tickets to Deepest Mongolia. But no! We were at the train station, and a busy humming place it was too, but that is not where one buys train tickets (not international ones anyway). Who woulda thought?! You hafta go to the Beijing International Hotel. Ah, of course!
Having only just jumped off one train, looking not unlike a mule train ourselves, and suspecting we may have just hit the mighty morning rush-hour, we dispatched a small reconnaissance group consisting of the two men and two smallest girls to find a bus to the hotel. The rest of us settled down for what we knew might be a long wait. It would turn out to be not only long (over four hours), but also cold, and the longer we sat on the marble benches, the more the cold seeped into our bones. I had to remind the children this was what they’d been looking forward to!

But we received a warm reception from fellow travellers and friendly policemen. The police, doing their rounds of the station in a little motorised cart, warned us to move our bags closer to us and watch them more carefully. It was not until I showed them how we had strapped them all together like a bowl of spaghetti, that they let me sit back down (on the cold marble seat). Nevertheless, they positioned their cart not far away and kept a literal eye on us for quite some time. As crowds gathered around, they shoo-ed them away. Eventually they found more pressing matters to attend to, and a small crowd gathered until interest waned and they were replaced by another…and another…and another. So much for our theory that Hong Kong was impersonal, because it was big.

In time, the ticket buyers returned, successful, having had adventures of their own, which they relayed as we trudged up the stairs out of the Deep Freeze into the blazing midday sun. So much for our head start to the day; it was already half over and we were only just leaving the train station!

Our new “Beijing folk are friendly” theory was about to be revised.

After quite some investigative work, we find the bus stop. What’s more the right bus is just pulling up AND there is hardly a queue. At precisely this moment an extra couple of dozen people realise they too want this particular bus and they are determined to get on it. In a matter of seconds we go from being almost at the head of the queue to decidedly at the back. But with more people approaching, we then find ourselves in the middle. Time for a decision. Either we all get on or none of us do. Rob’s adrenaline must be pumping, because he makes the totally irrational decision that, although the bus is almost full, we will fit…and he issues the command. Two little kids climb up and so now we are committed. But so is the rest of the crowd. A couple of them shove some of our kids out of the way and we realise desperate times call for desperate measures. I position the folded-up stroller in front of a very pushy man with a huge sack balanced on his head, while Rob simultaneously sticks his arm out to prevent the onslaught from the other side. We manage to push some more kids in before Sack Toting Man kicks the stroller aside and forces his way in front of us. Now the bus is almost at capacity (Chinese capacity, that is – it’s already well past Kiwi comfort limits!), seven children are on board, but no adults! Rob valiantly holds back increasingly agitated Sack Man’s Friend (who has a sack of his own) and someone pushes me up the stairs – that is, my face goes up, but my feet fly out backwards from underneath me. Somehow I regain balance, if not composure, and squeeze as best as one can with 25kg on one’s back up the aisle. Rob follows close behind and a kerfuffle ensues with the driver bellowing at Sack Man’s Friend and closing the door on the last passenger admitted – thankfully, it’s Dad!
More shouting erupts, this time from halfway up the bus, and before we know it, Sack Man is disembarking, having gone nowhere. Presumably to rejoin his friend.
The day no longer feels quite so cool.

When the sun goes down, the breeze picks up, we check the online weather forecast and cold hopes are revived. In spite of the fact that I doubt snowflakes will be falling in the city, everyone is excited, because Sunday’s forecast is for a high of 4 degrees and a 30% chance of snow. THAT, in the children’s minds, is a Very Good Chance and they have visions of building snowmen on the Great Wall!

north south east and west

Wednesday, March 25th, 2009

by the Mama, who listens keenly all night
on the overnight train from Xi’an to Beijing, China

At a crossroads. That’s what it feels like.
We’re onto our last China leg, the ninth stop in seven weeks. We’re leaving Xi’an, the easternmost point of the Silk Road. We had a small taste of the exotic treasures westwards in our wander through the Muslim Quarter the other night.

But we’re not going that way; for us, Mongolia beckons. In exactly a week we should be back on another train heading towards (we hope) sub-zero temperatures and snow. Everyone’s willing on a spring cold snap, so that we will not have carried our thermals and winter woollies in vain. When we set out we were expecting to have already spent a month in the Deep Freeze by now, but plans change and instead we are now wondering if we should have packed a snow machine.

We have travelled further than we initially expected. We’ve gone from the bottom of Asia to almost to the top and in another month we’ll have gone from (close to the edge of) one side right the way across to the other.

But first things first. Next stop: Beijing.
I’m actually ready to leave China behind, but the children have Beijing expectations, namely to walk part of The Great Wall and visit some Olympic-ish buildings. It’s not that I don’t want to do those things, it’s not that I don’t like China, it’s not that I even share a traveller-we-bumped-into’s thoughts.
”Don’t go there,” he insisted, “It’s dirty, the people are dirty. In fact, they’re disgusting. They spit their bones on the table and hoick all over the pavement. Don’t go there, I tell ya,” he brawled at us.
As it happens, the bones-on-the-tables suit us quite well! They disguise our children’s dropped-rice-on-the-table! And at least you don’t step on them like the bones-spit-on-the-floor in Vietnam.
As for the snotty pavements. Fellow Traveller was right enough. There are some things one does not become accustomed to easily and this is one of them. But not reason enough to avoid the country completely. You just gotta watch your step. Every single one!
We’re glad we came. We have had rich and varied experiences here. We have met friendly people, we have played paparazzi, we have ridden bicycles and walked miles, we have taken in amazing views, both manmade and God-created.
But for some reason (pollution, probably) we’re paying a price healthwise. Especially Mboy6. The speed with which he has been affected is surprising. Having been completely asthma-free pre-China it has been disconcerting to watch him deteriorate to the point that now maximum-dosing him on Ventolin all through the day and night is merely allowing him to breathe. Eliminating the cough, the wheeze and the rattle is an elusive goal. How ethical would it be for a non-medical mother to don a white coat and mask to administer some of her own as-yet-unrequired-Flixotide stash to her rasping son? Unhippocratic, no doubt, but tempting.
Hence my eagerness to take the northward road….and westward to Europe….maybe even to the other end of the Silk Road.

PS. If you’d like to read more of the Muslim Quarter walk, a truly warts-n-all account, then take a peek here at Dad’s post. Because I link to it, I get right of reply  😉
1) Rob and I knew where the kids were at all times (although would have happily lost a few of them, momentarily at least)
2) I’m not sure how dinner revived us. No-one even like it. It was a dumpling soup that tasted weirdly of aniseed and made your tongue numb and your lips tingle. JFTR.
3) Guess where the dragon shirt seller whisked us away to! We zipped up the alley, around the corner, past rows of stalls and into the very first stall we had bargained in earlier. Actually, we hadn’t really bargained at all – when we offered our first price the lady turned away in disgust and told us off for not mentioning our price sooner. So I was quick to tell the helpful man that this shop was too expensive for us, but he entered into negotiations us, “his friends”…and we were soon the owners of one black shirt with dragon for only 10 yuan (NZ$3) more than the original offer we had made.
4) The not-young boy in the first haircut photo would like everyone to know he was out walking, but Grandpa put up a picture of him under the description of young boys having their hair cut!
5) Soon we will realise having haircuts at this point in the proceedings was not the most prudent act just a couple of days before a sizeable temperature drop!
6) Finally, Dad’s description of the bedlam is spot on!

One Big Wall (and not the great one)

Tuesday, March 24th, 2009
by Superwoman Xi’an, China As well as being the most complete city wall that has survived in China, Xi’an’s wall is one of the largest ancient military defensive systems in the world. And today after one cold false start we set ... [Continue reading this entry]

in praise of writing

Monday, March 23rd, 2009
by the Mama, who paints her pictures with words Xi’an, China It’s a rare day that goes by without any journalling. In fact, it might even be accurate to say we have journalled Every Single Day so far. And it’s been interesting ... [Continue reading this entry]

The ego of a tyrant.

Sunday, March 22nd, 2009
by Rach, who was truly fascinated Xi’an, China As if conquering six kingdoms before he turned 40 was not enough, the first ruler to unify China (way way back a couple of hundred years BC) also overcame dialect issues by standardising ... [Continue reading this entry]

Chinese takeaways

Saturday, March 21st, 2009
By Rach, who is trying to make sure everyone eats enough veges Xi-an, China At home to eat Chinese (unless you cook it yourself) usually means chow mein or chop suey with a choice of black bean beef, chilli lemon chicken ... [Continue reading this entry]

this is *really* China

Friday, March 20th, 2009
by the Mama Xi’an, China I peeked out the window, wondering if yet again a train journey would bring an entirely different morning view. Sure enough! We seemed to be in a desert with towering sanddunes, many of which with dark ... [Continue reading this entry]

power plays pollution

Thursday, March 19th, 2009
by Rachael Shanghai, China….heading westwards on another overnight train We thought it was polluted yesterday, but when we went out this morning we could not – initially – even see across the river. An intense searching second look revealed an incredibly ... [Continue reading this entry]

*unedumacated*

Wednesday, March 18th, 2009
by Rach Shanghai, China

 

When we were planning our northern China leg we had no idea what there was to see or do in Shanghai. In fact, if it were not for the fact that ... [Continue reading this entry]

from the middle bunk

Tuesday, March 17th, 2009
By Rachael onwards to Shanghai, China

 

We wake to rural vistas blurring past the window. It would seem every square inch of land not used for housing or roads in this country, which is home ... [Continue reading this entry]