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Monday, December 29th, 2008

By Mama, who was peaceful and prayerful 
Phnom Penh, Cambodia


“It was a rather un-fun morning.
It felt really weird being able to open my eyes, but not see.”
 
                                                                             ~ Kgirl-almost10

Today’s plan to visit the Killing Fields had not been intended for fun, but little did we expect to spend the morning at the SOS Hospital. However, that’s what you do when Kgirl9 unexpectedly and suddenly collapses at the market and loses her sight. When she looks so vacant and is understandably concerned that her eyes are open, but seeing nothing, you don’t hang around to finish your shopping. You might if you had a medical background and recognised the signs of dehydration, but I lacked that knowledge. All I had was the decision we had made not to take anti-malarial medication potentially condemning me.

And so we carried the limp 30kg form up the road, calling out, “Doctor? Doctor?” to a non-understanding audience. We crossed Busy Street almost effortlessly and K9 stumbled a few steps before the blurriness returned. I declined an offer of a motorbike – I know they fit five people on one bike here, but I could not see how we were going to hold our invalid on. Mrs H zipped in to a guesthouse where we knew a Cambodian lady spoke English while I continued home. I left K9 in a heap on a chair outside and ran up the three flights of stairs, shouting out to Rob. Having quickly imparted the bare bones of the story, I flew back down the stairs with passports and money to a tuktuk that had pulled up. English-speaking-lady suggested we go to the local children’s hospital, but upon hearing we had insurance she sent us to the International SOS Hospital. What a good choice. We stumbled out of the tuktuk and supported K9 inside between us. Before we could even sit her down someone appeared, grabbed a wheelchair and whisked us off to an examination room, taking the history as we walked, and calling out, “Trauma team.” It was very reassuring.
Over the next three hours we were seen by a couple of very competent conservative doctors in a professional-looking environment. We left a smear of blood on the bed, and there was something that looked like dried vomit, but apart from that everything was sterile. The needles came out of sealed packages and were disposed of after use. The paint on the walls was barely dry – renovations of the ten-year-old facility had been completed just two months ago and it had the appearance of any modern hospital, with service superior to any we have experienced in NZ.
Pretty quickly they started treating for dehydration, with the promise of leaving the lure in just in case she would need some other medication. But the major issues (like bird flu) were fairly conclusively ruled out early on, and a couple of hours later a blood test had ruled out malaria and probably dengue fever (that won’t show for another two days in the blood, but her platelet count was high, which means it is unlikely she has it, plus she doesn’t have a rash and she hasn’t got a fever any more either).
Once the litre of saline solution had been pumped in and she’d drunk four glasses of electrolyte, she really needed the toilet – the cleanest toilet we’ve seen in our travels! Thankfully I accompanied her, as she soon felt like vomiting and her vision went blurry again. Back to bed. More water. A bit of waiting. Tried sitting up again – more blurry vision, but not the total blackout like she’d had at the market. Blood tests came back, and with them, relief. Dehydration we can deal with. And prevent. As for the “non-specific Cambodian virus” diagnosis, we’ll never know which one she has caught, as they do not have the facilities to test here (words from the doctor, who sounded like he wished he could provide something more conclusive).

We were all set to walk out when K9 asked if she could have the lure removed! Her emotions welled up at this point and a few tears trickled down her cheek as the plasters were pulled off. It probably wasn’t really that bad, but the combination of heat and foreignness and uncertainty and no-breakfast-yet-even-though-it-was-already-lunchtime and I-want-to-go-home quietly bubbled over.
Tentatively we escorted her up the hallway and paid.
US$201.02
And we had to pay the two cents! Good thing Mrs H was carrying a 100 riel note (most things costs thousands here so she had been complaining about how useless it was to have hundreds, but this one proved useful!) For such professional service, it seemed a small price to pay. We came home loaded up with more electrolyte powder, total cost $1.92 (that’s where the two cents came from above!)
The tuktuk drivers on that side of town drive a hard bargain and we were a little ripped off to get home, but we were not going to walk. The driver we used didn’t really know where he was going and when I spotted our street, we pointed it out to him! U-turns across the traffic are no problem here!!!!!! And actually, on the way TO the hospital I was quite grateful that our driver hadn’t cared about driving on the wrong side of the road to go the quickest way.

Now it’s late afternoon and K9 has been lying down all day. She is much more perky. She has drunk gallons and has some colour back in her cheeks. She managed to come out with the quote at the top of the page.

 

 

The two little girls are not as bad, but not so good either. They are still sporting fevers (39.9 and 39.1 degrees – down from the 40.3 high) and are thoroughly miserable lying about doing nothing, just wanting Dadda-cuddles. If they are still hot tomorrow we will not book bus tickets for travelling on the 31st as we had planned to. Instead we’ll take them to the hospital for malaria and dengue fever testing on travel day (it’ll be fever day five, the day dengue can show up). We had imagined two weeks of zipping round the country with our friends and so it is a bit frustrating to feel like we are mucking them about when we have a limited time frame with them. Thankfully they are understanding and one day we’ll laugh about the trip when they missed a flight and got lost in a Bangkok tuktuk and spent hours in hospital in Phnom Penh…..we may not accomplish all we had hoped to, but we’ve made some memories together.

as busy as bangkok

Sunday, December 28th, 2008

by Rob-n-Rach
Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Even as we drove into Phnom Penh on the bus and then across this capital city in a tuktuk convoy, J14 observed, “It’s as busy as Bangkok.” There seemed to be just as many motorbikes, just as many tuktuks, just as many busses, just as many cars (although none of the distinctive bright pink taxis), just as many shops-on-a-cart, just as many people and a few extra things to boot – old men peddling cyclos, beggars unashamedly demanding and dogs on every street.

By the time we had been here twenty-four hours we had decided it was BUSIER than Bangkok. Yes, busier than Bangkok.

Knowing markets are usually the cheapest place to buy food, and being fortunate to discover one right on our street, we zipped up there this morning to find breakfast fruit (fresh pineapple, bananas straight off the stalk, delightfully different dragon fruit and juicy oranges – careful you don’t drool on your keyboard!) Maybe it was just that it was Sunday and Sundays are busier than any other day, but there were So Many People. Shoulder to shoulder, we hustled along en masse. ER(2) was actually frightened by the crowd, the densest one we have been in to date. And it wasn’t just a crowd of people – in the middle of it all were the omnipresent motorbikes and a few hopeful tuktuk drivers. But escaping the throng was almost as thrilling as staying in it! Because it involved Crossing The Street. Pedestrians do not have right of way…..ever.
At least in Bangkok cars would stop if you waved your hand at them really fast. Not here. Trying to stop the flow would be like trying to dam a river. And expecting a break in the traffic would be akin  to expecting the waters of the Red Sea to part again….in the evening we would be escorted by a bald man and his five-year-old grandson on  motorbike as they pushed across four lanes of traffic honking furiously on the horn and insisting we take shelter alongside them, but this morning we were on our own. We soon discover the technique is as simple as it is dangerous – just slowly, but confidently step into the stream of traffic and keep moving towards the opposite side. Bikes, cars, cyclos and tuktuks will all weave their way around you. It takes some nerve, but it is the ONLY way across.

From morning to night the traffic surges. No further away than the street where we are staying, motorbikes are lined up like rows of dominoes, constantly coming and going as people live their lives. According to the map, this street is not a main road, not a less important road, it’s just a little lane. But vehicles are constantly moving along it, people are constantly walking by. On the tops of heads of people passing by we have seen a three-tiered birdcage full of darting birds, a bamboo tray holding a bucket of water, some coconuts, a coconut grater, a pot and something wrapped in a towel, another bamboo tray forming the base of a doughnut pyramid. Even in the middle of the night we were woken by shouts from the street.
It’s busy busy busy. Another Asian city that never sleeps.

PS The four biggest boys (that includes Dadda) crossed lots of roads today, taking an 8km hike around town on foot, racing past Royal Palace, Independence Monument, Friendship with Vietnam Monument, National Museum and the riverside quay while the four girls all lay in bed trying to shake fevers and the smallest boy tried not to annoy them. When you’re burning at 40 degrees, you don’t notice much!

PPS For the H’s family: The H’s headed out on their own and didn’t return for hours. They negotiated three tuktuks, were sobered by a genocide museum, saw all the same attractions our boys flashed past and returned as Real Independent Travellers.

from a bus window (that we nearly missed)

Saturday, December 27th, 2008
by Rachael, who was actually wondering what the H's were noticing Siem Reap to Phnom Penh, Cambodia It would seem it doesn't matter how many bus/train/boat rides we make, each one is different. Distinctive features of this one from Siem Reap ... [Continue reading this entry]

unexpected cambodia contrast

Friday, December 26th, 2008
by Rachael Siem Reap, Cambodia We had expected to cross the border and come face-to-face with poverty. Isn't it Cambodia we always hear about in the news media? While there were beggars, small dirty children with even smaller babies hanging from ... [Continue reading this entry]

just like, WOW!!

Thursday, December 25th, 2008
by Rach who is still in awe (and Rob composed the title <wink>) Siem Reap, Cambodia Christmas breakfast is usually a light affair for us and this year was no exception; local oranges, baby bananas and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Missing Christmas

Thursday, December 25th, 2008
by Rob Siem Reap, Cambodia We have just spent the last month leading up to Christmas travelling through lands that will all "miss" it. In Laos in particular, there were no Christmas trees in the malls, no piped carols in the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Christmas Eve

Wednesday, December 24th, 2008
by Rach Siem Reap, Cambodia  Our first full day in Cambodia with the H's. Lots of different experiences:

 

[Continue reading this entry]

adrenaline postcards

Tuesday, December 23rd, 2008

by the adults who experienced it all Bangkok, Thailand to Siem Reap, Cambodia Number One: Priced To Take Your Breath Away Up before five in order to board the third-class-only train to the Cambodia border. We shared it with a few other ... [Continue reading this entry]