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clean and tidy

Sunday, April 26th, 2009

by environmentalist Rachael
Tallinn, Estonia

Again we’re surprised at how an imaginary line can cause everything to be instantly different. On one side, where we’ve just come from, is a roller-coaster-bumpy road lined with pines and birch trees. Russia 😉
As we wait in the queue at the line called a border we see the first trees with new green leaves. Spring has reached Estonia.
Across the line is a beautiful town; Narva, according to the sign. Set on a river or perhaps sea inlet (we’re not sure), church spires poke up from solid old stone fortress walls. It’s fairytale beautiful and we expect to see Cinderella walk by.
Russia might still think Estonia is hers, but a decade and a half of freedom from what-was-always-illegal-Russian-control has been time enough to make this a different place. For a start, the birch trees thin out! The road turns smooth, the grass is green and well-tended in public spaces. Buildings are neat and tidy. Fences, straight and made from palings (as opposed to any old scraps of anything). Gardens are being prepared. Every back yard is full of dark newly-turned earth. I suppose, to be fair to Russia, it will look the same there when the snow has gone in a couple of weeks.
Farmhouses, stone and wooden, dot the countryside. Hay bales sit rolled in fields. We pass a wind farm. Pine forests thicken. Small purple flowers brighten the forest floor. A little (very little) snow lingers in the shade. Some roads off the main one are dirt – but they look smooth. Even the ramshackle falling-down buildings look quaint rather than dishevelled. A bit further on houses sit in fenced quarter acre yards, almost New Zealand-like (but with the number of fruit trees and vegetable gardens it is a NZ of yesteryear, my childhood growing space – not the relatively cramped cross-leased infill-housing of today).

First impressions are that Estonia is a tidy place. Digging deeper we find out this is not entirely true – or at least it has not always been so. Almost exactly a year ago this was the site of a massive CLEANUP campaign – in one day over 50,000 people took to the streets, forests and waterways, and removed 10,000 tonnes of illegal waste with the help of more than 40 waste management companies, who then recycled 80% of the rubbish. You can see all sorts of inspirational details right here. I had read about this while still in New Zealand, not for one moment realising we would end up staying with some of the organisers! But here we are in a composting recycling home in the heart of Tallinn talking to guys who were instrumental in the Let’s Do It cleanup campaign last year, and who are currently working on the anniversary project about to take place this weekend. After sighing our way through Asia’s plastic bag strewn environment, this has been a welcome change. And it is encouraging to see what even a small group of volunteers can do.

Now I need to ask them – and you – about the practice of burning agricultural ground. We have seen it done all the way from Laos to Mongolia….right across Russia we saw the slow lines of ground level fire…and driving into Estonia we fought through the thickest smoke. Had this burn-off got out of control? Possible – there *were* fire appliances in attendance. Was it supposed to be so smoky? (others hadn’t been) What is it done for? Is it our equivalent of digging in potash? And if so, is our version any more ecologically sound just because we don’t witness the smoke? I really did wonder how good it is for the environment seeing the clouds of smoke hanging over the fields. But I don’t know. Can anyone enlighten me?

Happy Birthday to Lenin

Wednesday, April 22nd, 2009

by Rach with children’s journal entry additions
Moscow, Russia

 

Lenin’s birthday is the reason there are so many people, many with red flowers. It’s also why there’s a parade of Pioneers in their red scarves and red hats. And why there are so so many groups of school children. Or it would have been his birthday if he were not eternally ensconced in his waxy glory behind those walls of the Kremlin.
We don’t join the throng to pay our respects, opting instead to witness the changing of the guard at the eternal flame, a memorial to The Unknown Soldier.
Showmanship Supreme.
Kboy11 describes:

Changing of the guard. Not quite Buckingham Palace. The soldiers swung their legs up to their waists as they marched. They stomped as noisily as an elephant on the flat, and stepped as quietly as a mouse on the stairs.

Jgirl14 continues:

The 18-20 year old soldiers stand for an hour at a time and never move anything except their eyes…..at least, they aren’t supposed to. Three guards come marching in time, legs creating a 90 degree angle, boots coming down with a smart crack…..right up in front of the eternal flame. Facing the flame, they stand motionless and observe a minute’s silence. Then in a carefully choreographed movement, the two outside guards change places with the two, who have just done their hour. What they think about while they stand, I would be interested to find out. I know it would be hard to stand still for an hour. And to do that in –30*C, then immediately kick your legs so high? One would learn patience doing that job. Either that or be bored silly.

 

We also take a wander around Alexander’s Garden, admiring statues and sculptures, especially the ones from Russia’s rich literary history.
Everyone is cold. It might be 2*C (ie warmer than last night), but the wind is biting. So we head indoors to thaw out and have a bite ourselves. Baked potatoes – about as Russian as it gets.

Having skirted Red Square and temptingly glimpsed the famous onion-domed building, we were keen for a closer look at that iconic sight so often seen in newspapers, documentaries and movies. Well, the adults were – the kids reckoned they’d never heard of the place. Where *have* they been?     

Jgirl14’s journal entry is honest:

I hadn’t really known what to expect, as the reading we had done that mentioned Moscow wasn’t very detailed, because the story characters were all passing through or being deported to Siberia. But what I did see I certainly didn’t expect!
Red Square is a famous place, I now know. Before today I can’t recall having ever heard about it even though I probably have. Before today I don’t think I’d even seen a picture of it. Well, today is today and as we walked past a large gateway in a castle-ish wall I caught a glimpse of something that appeared to have come straight from  Walt Disney’s film, Aladdin; a Sultan’s palace? I seriously thought that these onion-shaped, brightly coloured and geometrically designed domes were the centrepiece of some theme park. The last thing I’d have guessed it to be was a cathedral. In my mind a cathedral is a grey stone church with bells and large arches and elaborate interior paintings. I guess I’ll have to change my picture!

The square is strangely empty. There is a strong police presence and strategically placed metal barriers prevent the public from entering this public space. Tatiana enquires about what is going to happen. We expect perhaps a birthday parade – but the answer is NOTHING. Ah, that’s exactly it. Welcome to Russia, where we will prevent a revolution from occurring by refusing to allow even a demonstration to begin. Do you think I’m being too harsh? Maybe too western? Our little group of eleven children and not even half a dozen adults congregates by the barrier, some of us crouching down for a better camera angle, a couple of boisterous boys bounce about a bit. Before we know it, we are being hustled away by police and the barriers are being moved further away from the square. Apologies to any tour groups in our wake – it’s our fault you couldn’t get any closer!
Not to be deterred, we detour through a seriously upmarket shopping mall, a fake world with fake trees and fake flowers and fake springtime and fake summer umbrellas where rich and beautiful people  live shop, to approach Aladdin’s Palace from the other side. Here we are reminded that nothing is going to happen today. There are police on the street, police cars lined up, police cars driving by, a bus loaded with police parked on the side of the road. And there were two policemen standing guard to tell us no-one would be admitted into St Basil’s Cathedral today. It’s Lenin’s birthday, you know.

 

And so we try Moscow’s largest cathedral instead. It’s a short walk away, around the Kremlin wall, away from the action (although as we walk, two police cars take chase along here, lights flashing, sirens blaring…..to the adults it also feels a bit like a movie set, but not a Disney one!)

 

Leaving the noise behind, male heads uncovered, female heads covered, we step through the security check and into the cathedral. Kboy11 rightly suggests it’s like walking into an art museum. Big brother takes up the description:

The ceiling of the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour is amazing. Well, the whole thing is, but the ceiling particularly so, painted with pictures of God the Father, Son and Holy Spirit. There were also pictures of scenes from the Bible and pictures of different saints on the walls and candle stands with lots of candles burning. There were lots of people lighting candles, praying and kissing the pictures.

  

Our full day concludes with a Russian fairy tale DVD, a very cultured happy birthday.

*spring*

Sunday, April 12th, 2009
by Rach Orkhon, Mongolia Spring is supposed to be a time of new life. Here it seems that rather than filling the people with expectancy and anticipation, everyone is heaving a sigh of relief that they survived another winter. And because ... [Continue reading this entry]

authentic anak

Saturday, April 11th, 2009
by Rach Orkhon, Mongolia I was a teeny bit apprehensive about signing up for time at Anak Ranch. It might be a real working farm, but it also has a snazzy website and is supposedly set up to cater to ... [Continue reading this entry]

GER: Global Education Received

Friday, April 3rd, 2009
by a very grateful Rachael Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia 60% of the city’s population is without running water…is this Africa? Nope, too cold for that. Are we in a refugee camp? No, although we are living in a tent. Is this a medieval ... [Continue reading this entry]

Snow on the Square

Sunday, March 29th, 2009
by an adult who thought it was pretty cool too Beijing, China Never mind the cultural or historical significance of standing in Tiananmen Square, facing the Forbidden City, it was SNOWING!!!!!! So they may not have been the biggest snowflakes, and they ... [Continue reading this entry]

in praise of writing

Monday, March 23rd, 2009
by the Mama, who paints her pictures with words Xi’an, China It’s a rare day that goes by without any journalling. In fact, it might even be accurate to say we have journalled Every Single Day so far. And it’s been interesting ... [Continue reading this entry]

Chinese takeaways

Saturday, March 21st, 2009
By Rach, who is trying to make sure everyone eats enough veges Xi-an, China At home to eat Chinese (unless you cook it yourself) usually means chow mein or chop suey with a choice of black bean beef, chilli lemon chicken ... [Continue reading this entry]

this is *really* China

Friday, March 20th, 2009
by the Mama Xi’an, China I peeked out the window, wondering if yet again a train journey would bring an entirely different morning view. Sure enough! We seemed to be in a desert with towering sanddunes, many of which with dark ... [Continue reading this entry]

*unedumacated*

Wednesday, March 18th, 2009
by Rach Shanghai, China

 

When we were planning our northern China leg we had no idea what there was to see or do in Shanghai. In fact, if it were not for the fact that ... [Continue reading this entry]