BootsnAll Travel Network



Archive for the 'history' Category

« Home

we’re gonna get fat! (every day a birthday)

Monday, October 26th, 2009

Krakow, Poland

Who would have thought that we’d be eating out in Europe? It’s meant to be expensive, right?
But look……we’re managing to find cheap eats wherever we go, all of them decidedly Polish, all of them things we said we must let the kids try at least once. We had thought we’d be buying one piece of cake and divvying it up, one mouthful apiece, but there’s been no need. Not when, mini doughnuts (that are not actually all that small) cost NZ30cents each (that’s near enough to 15 US or euro cents for you non-kiwis).

You can get a dozen pierogi at the market for a couple of dollars (of course, we have seen it on hotel menus for $10 too, but even that is not so bad for your average tourist, now, is it?)

You can pick up zapiekanki everywhere – cheaply if you keep your wits about you, although we’ve seen them exorbitantly priced as well. It’s the kind of food you don’t expect to pay a lot for, but tastes delish – a baguette topped with mushroom, onion, cheese, mayonnaise and ketchup, sprinkled with chopped chives. That’s the original variety anyway. Now you can find different flavours, and different shaped dough bases, but none are an improvement on the original.

 

And because our fruit and veg are costing so little (a dollar for a kilo of plums or huge broccoli or cabbage – even less for peppers, and not much more for mushrooms), we are able to nip in to the ubiquitous bakeries, sometimes more than once a day, coming out with treats that we have been compelled to find authentic recipes for.

Dough:
1/2 lb flour
1/2 C powdered sugar
1/2 C butter
2 egg yolks
1 grated lemon peel
Mix ingredients together, wrap in foil and refrigerate for half an hour

Filling:
1 1/4 C sugar
1/2 C butter
Cream together

5 egg yolks (reserve the whites)
Add, one at a time, beating well after each one 

1 3/4 lb white cheese
Grind well, and add to above

vanilla extract
Add and mix until smooth

1/2 C raisins
2-3 T finely chopped candied orange peel 
Add

Take out the dough from the fridge and halve it.
Roll out one half to fill the bottom of the cake pan, pierce with a fork here and there
and bake at 360°F for about 25 min until light golden.
Form pencil-thin strips from the rest of the dough.
Whisk reserved egg whites into a stiff froth and gently mix with the cheese mixture,
then place on the baked crust and arrange the dough strips on top in a checkered pattern.
Brush with lightly beaten egg white.
Place in a pre-heated medium oven (about 360°F) and leave it open for a few minutes,
then take out the cheese cake. Remove from the pan when cooled.


(this one doesn’t have much filling – we prefer the higher creamier ones!!)

Pastry:
250g flour
250g butter
3T water
3 egg yolks
Sift flour into a bowl, rub in the butter finely, then add yolks and water and combine. 
Chill for around 3 hours. Grease two baking sheets and dust with flour or breadcrumbs.
Divide pastry in half. Roll out into two rectangles about 1 cm thick and bake until golden. Cool.

Cream filling:
3C milk (about 700 ml)
150g sugar
1t vanilla essence
3 egg yolks
3T flour
3T potato flour
Polish brandy winiak
icing sugar
Boil two cups of milk with the sugar and vanilla sugar.
Beat egg yolks until frothy, blend with remaining milk and flour and potato flour.
Add to hot milk and sugar, bring to boil carefully.
Add winiak brandy to taste.
Spread cream evenly on one of baked pastry rectangles, cover with second.
Dust with icing sugar. Slice and serve when cool.

The kids have latched on to another idea to take to our home kitchen, a great one, we decided, for taking on picnics or out hiking. Bread sticks are not a new concept. The carts that pretzels are sold from in Krakow have not changed in the twenty years we’ve known them. But one day someone took a pretzel, which used to come in the flavours “with poppy seeds” or “with sesame seeds” and they added in a bit of dried chilli and some other seeds as well. The result took a plain piece of bread, that we used to nibble on for nothing more than nourishment value, to a place of culinary delight. We’ll be making these for sure when we get home, and will definitely use a dough with caraway for that authentic taste.

Now, if you think we are spending all our time eating out, don’t be fooled. It’s cheap, but not *that* cheap. Look, we are cooking in the hostel too:

And while our bread might be bought in a shop, you can hardly call that eating out!

Oh yes, and as if we haven’t had enough cakes, another birthday crept up on us. Oh the agony of choosing a cake when there are so many to pick from.
Lboy-now9 ended up with walnuts (much to the parents’ disappointment – both of them were hanging out for a decent sized slice of sernik!)

And we started the day with a Polish dish – nalesniki, easily translated as pancakes, made by us, not from a shop! We ate them with also-made-by-us apple and cranberry sauce, and strawberry yoghurt to cut the TARTness of the cranberries.


HAPPY BIRTHDAY Lboy9.

Sunday

Sunday, October 25th, 2009

Krakow, Poland

Down the flights of stairs, across the courtyard, through the front building, and we burst out the door onto the busy bustling street. Only it isn’t busy. It’s quiet. There are no trams running, no cars passing, not even any people filling the sidewalk. In unison everyone utters a variation of, “It’s so quiet!” The contrast to every other time we have left our hostel is striking. For the benefit of the children we explain, “Its Sunday. Almost everybody in Poland goes to church on a Sunday morning.”

We amble up to the Rynek, the main market square.
They say it again, “It’s so quiet. It’s almost empty.”
And we repeat, “It’s Sunday, almost everyone is in church. It’ll be busy later.”

There’s no shortage of churches. I wonder if you can stand anywhere in Krakow and NOT see a church. We choose the closest to poke our noses into.
Priest is chanting, congregation replying, both to the deep mellow strains of an organ.
The church is full, there do not appear to be any free seats. And it’s not just grey-haired older folk. A young boy runs up and down the aisle. A baby is jostled on someone’s knee. Young people sit alongside the ancients. 

 

When we were in another church during the week, we noticed it was not just an old lady, who sat fingering her rosary beads. A tall young man, old enough to not be there if he didn’t want to be, entered and took a seat, stared straight ahead, lost in his own thoughts and presumably prayers.

We walk. We pick out churches on every street corner, and more in between. We wonder what possesses a man to become a monk, a lady a nun – there are plenty of them to prompt such thoughts here. More than any other country we’ve been in.

 

After a couple of hours we return to the Rynek. It’s humming, buzzing, full of people. Church must be over.

The church prevailed against communism.
Will it stand so strong against consumerism?
Already the walls are crumbling. Once upon a time, all shops, restaurants, newspaper kiosks, markets, everything stayed closed all Sunday long. Now some of the shops open at 11 to trade for a few hours.

What does the future hold?

to (another) market (again)

Saturday, October 24th, 2009
Krakow, Poland Apologies about the recurring WhenWeUsedToLiveHere theme, but here goes the next edition…..

The first year we lived here (we arrived in 1990) we did not see ANY Western products at all. The choice ... [Continue reading this entry]

maybe fairy tales are true

Friday, October 23rd, 2009
Krakow, Poland

 

If you find yourself in an ancient city, with a castle (called Wawel) and a cave that once housed a dragon, you’d wonder if you’d stepped into a fairy tale!
A popular version ... [Continue reading this entry]

then and now; old and new

Wednesday, October 21st, 2009
Krakow, Poland  Letterboxes. You wouldn’t think there’s much to say about a letterbox, would you? But they symbolise today’s observations. Down in the lobby of our inner-city hostel, just like in all the other old buildings and new apartments in Poland, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Biser emBraces

Saturday, October 3rd, 2009
Biser, Bulgaria We’ve been here a week and haven’t even walked through the village. Unheard of for us! But in some ways it didn’t matter where we were right now – just had to be off Schengen territory and preferably ... [Continue reading this entry]

bedlam, bones and a blowout

Friday, October 2nd, 2009
Biser, Bulgaria What a crazy afternoon!

At midday we had an appointment with the editor/photographer/storywriter from the local rag (who we met yesterday whilst nibbling at pizzas in Harmanli), and at the same time the camp owner (who lives in ... [Continue reading this entry]

Philippi Fun

Friday, September 25th, 2009
Nea Karvali, Greece Some days are all-round good days. Today was one of them. Breakfast at the top of a ridge overlooking a lake and hills. Good morning driving. Easy roads. Fast times. Pastries and a delicious birthday cake for lunch, eaten underneath ... [Continue reading this entry]

words do not describe

Wednesday, September 23rd, 2009

Meteora, Greece

neither monks-n-nuns nor monasteries nor mountains nor magnificence

the approach along a long straight road across the plain

[Continue reading this entry]

the earth’s navel

Monday, September 21st, 2009
almost at Trikala (having not been able to stop at Delphi), Greece Delphi may not be remembered by us so much as the centre of the ancient world, but as the place we received a hand-delivered letter from The Commander, ... [Continue reading this entry]