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Good-bye Germany, Hallo Holland

Tuesday, June 9th, 2009

by an aching, throbbing Rach
Dinxperlo, Holland

Dinxperlo
Doesn’t that just have a ring about it? Choosing our route northwards, this sounded as good a place as any a delightful place to make the border crossing. Dinxperlo.
And so we found ourselves in a town, which has streets with yellow crosses along the roads, sometimes right down the middle of a street delineating the border – a D on one side and an N on the other, a real border town.

And what a welcome we received. The carpark, where we were supposed to park was closed, but we found another a little further along the street, so we drove in to investigate. Out of nowhere a HandPaintedClog-wearing man appeared on a bicycle. Only if he’d been carrying tulips and cheese would he have been more Dutch, and we guessed we were in the Dutch part of Dinxperlo. In a crude German-y-Dutch-y conversation he established that we could not park where we were, but directed us to a spot under some trees that would be fine. He took off to see if he could organise power for us – well beyond the realm of duty! In the end it was not possible, but we had a friendly introduction to Dutchies….talking about his shoes and our origin and, of course, thanking him profusely for his help. Who was he? No idea. Why did he help us? I really don’t know. Did he have to? Not at all.
After dinner we took a short stroll around the neighbourhood. A tidy compact manicured place it is. Every home, most of which are duplexes, has a well-kept creative garden out the front, large picture windows filled with carefully arranged potplants and decorations, and many have the characteristic Dutch lace. It feels like stepping into a Home and Garden magazine! Except there are goats and chickens in some of the backyards – Dinxperlo is so small it doesn’t know if it is urban or rural.

This was the end of the day. We had already enjoyed the last of the German countryside (and finally found some cows – we had been wondering where all the cows were to provide the vast quantities of milk and cheese and quark and cream that the country seems to use – in all our previous travels we had not seen any grazing cows – but today we found them in the north), but our day was ending later than if our morning activities had not got accidentally drawn out. It’s not that Rob played nurse too slowly – he certainly did not, gouging away at small stones and dirt as fast as he could. It’s just that he shouldn’t have even needed to. As Grandpa and I rode down through a stone tunnel I took note of the council worker’s water coursing down the hill and the inch-fat hose we would need to cross at some point. With these factors in mind, and with perhaps three seconds to do my thinking in, I slowed (or maybe I was still just thinking about slowing) and tried to choose the point where the hose was furtherest away from the wall to give me more space to get over it straight. But I didn’t make it. And before I knew it, at the moment just before my head hit the wall, I thought that this would be  really good time to have a helmet on. The things you think! Following very quickly behind came one shoulder, one hand and both legs, making contact with solid wet muddy ground and I realised I had fallen off. Clutching my head, teeth clenched for some unknown reason, I sat there in my puddle wondering how the computer on my back had fared. Hopefully better than my ripped (new-in-China) jeans. Or my thumb nail, also ripped off down one side. (By the way, I don’t do blood well, so I covered that quickly with a plaster – always carry a small pair of scissors and strip of plaster – you never know when you’ll need them….and I didn’t even look at the knee or ask about the face….I just thanked Grandpa for removing some of the mud to make me look more respectable!)
What do you do when you fall off a horse bike? I know the answer to both those questions! You get straight back on and head for home. Much the same as when you get hit by a motorbike in Vietnam! My nurse-with-tactful-bedside-manner pointed out these increasingly regular, alarmingly similar occurrences as he splashed antiseptic solution around. And I was glad that we were laughing together. I felt loved as children took my clothing to wash in a bowl quickly before setting off. I felt loved as the smallest children showered me with hugs and kisses and concerned questions and efforts to not knock me all day long (I must say The Bear Cave feels small when there are eleven of you assembling for a meal and you’re trying to protect opposite shoulder and knee from the unaware!) And I thank God that He answered my recent prayer, albeit in an unexpected way, to help us love each other more deeply.

sightsee-ers, stars and scavengers

Sunday, June 7th, 2009

by Rachael
Koeln, Germany

Sightsee-ers

“No, a family ticket is for one family. You are one two three four and more people.”
“Yes, but we are one family. These are our children.”
”No, a family ticket is for only children of one family.”
”Alles klar. We are one family!”
”How many children do you have?”
”Seven.”
”Really seven?”
”Yes, seven.”
”Oh fantastic. I’m sorry I had to ask. That is wonderful.”
And by now the rest of the queue behind us was giggling along with the beaming cashier. So to give them something to really think about I added, “Actually, we have eight children, but one is outside.” It didn’t seem right to have lied in a church, but I thought they were going to count them and we only had seven with us at that stage!
Wouldn’t you agree it would have been ironical to not be allowed a LOT of children on a family ticket in a Catholic church? <wink>
We were at Koelner Dom (Cologne Cathedral), the city’s most famous landmark and unofficial symbol. It is a Gothic church, started in 1248, and completed in 1880 (having been an abandoned project for a few hundred years in the middle there!). It houses the Shrine of the Three Holy Kings that supposedly contains the relics of the Three Magi, although we didn’t get to check this out as we were ushered out of the cathedral soon after entering, due to it being Sunday and a service was about to begin. We were in there long enough to be impressed again at the grandeur of stained glass windows, the devotion stitched into enormous tapestries, the care taken creating intricate carvings, the atmosphere of glimmering candles.

We didn’t have to pay to go into the cathedral itself…payment was for the privilege of climbing the belfry. And at only 5euros for a whole family, it was not as exorbitant as some of the indulgences sold hundreds of years ago to fund the initial buildings.
Up we spiralled. Around and around and around. Up, up up. 533 steps. By the time we had also spiralled down, down, down 533 steps, around around and around, some of the smaller children were dizzy and jelly-legged with shaking knees!! The steps weren’t a problem – it was much easier than hiking in Thailand – but the spiralling left you with a strange sensation that is difficult to describe.
The view from the top was spectacular. The church, which had not looked *so* big from ground level, took on a completely new perspective. It was enormous. The vaulted ceilings, the “concrete filigree” lacework, the bells themselves. Gigantic.

Another impressive cathedral. Another old town. Actually, Koeln is one of the oldest we’ve been to, having been founded by the Romans in 38BC. Nero’s mother was born here (now that was a long time ago, wasn’t it?) and in 310 under Constantine a bridge was built over the Rhein here. She’s an ancient place, but doesn’t *feel* old, not even near the cathedral. Probably because the centre was completely destroyed during World War II. About 95% of the population of the city disappeared, due both to death and evacuation. 95%!! Can you even imagine that?
Reconstruction of the city followed the style of the 1950s, while respecting the old layout and naming of the streets. Thus, the city today is characterized by simple and modest post-war buildings (which don’t feel at all old even if their names are timeless), interspersed with a few pre-war buildings, which were reconstructed due to their historical importance. Like the cathedral. And that’s all the sightseeing we did.

Stars
Outside the cathedral was an array of the “statue men” we have been seeing in various towns. The children have been awed at their ability to stand stock still – I just wish a few of them would be further inspired and start practising for at least an hour every day! These particular ones, who included a grey-sheeted sheik, Charlie Chaplin, the usual black-n-white suits with white gloves and faces, and a sailor, interacted with their audience more than any of the others we have watched. These guys wanted you to come and pose with them, take a photo and leave money. The sailor probably did not bargain on Tgirl5 climbing up on his box with him when he simply extended his hand for a shake!!!!

When you’re eight years old, you know the protocol though:

Scavengers
The other day Rob contemplated picking up a deckchair he saw lying on the side of the road (wouldn’t hurt to have one chair for Grandpa-who-finds-the-mat-on-the-ground-to-be-a-long-way-down-these-days), but upon giving it a good kick, discovered why it had been left.
This afternoon Kboy11 rescued a ball floating down the river. He kicked it – it bounces. More successful than the deck chair.
Earlier, the Walking Along The River To The Cathedral discussion had centred on how much quicker it would be on bicycles. Only having two, we cannot transport everyone this way, and Grandpa worked out we just need three tandems, another single and two baby seats. At the cathedral I saw a father and daughter team roll up on scooters (not the motorised variety) and it occurred to me that this might be an option! Cheaper, anyway. And easier to store. The merits and drawbacks were discussed on the Walking Along The River Home Again. Partway along the riverbank promenade are five large rubbish bins. Sitting next to these five bins today was a baby seat designed to go on a bicycle. We inspected, knowing that with the experience of having fixed *something* every single day so far, a bicycle seat would most certainly be fixable by our residents expert fixers. We looked around. Had someone just put it down for a moment and would be back soon to retrieve it? No, for a start there was no-one around, and secondly Jgirl14 pointed out she had seen it there on our way past a few hours earlier. So we picked it up. And carried it home. And looked at it. And could find nothing wrong with it. Nothing at all. So we mounted it on a bike. And went for a ride.
(That’s the royal we, I had nothing to do with it at all other than say, “Pick it up, we can fix it.”)
With this new acquisition further fueling thoughts of alternative transport, Grandpa was soon expressing his interest in getting a folding bike (he is really unimpressed with the rubbish we picked up at the market and would love the excuse to indulge in a piece of technology he has long admired – heehee). So now we just need three tandems or half a dozen scooters.
Then we’d be able to fit in a whole lot more sightseeing.

Time on the road: all morning
Distance covered: at least 8km (judging by the distance markers on signs – Mr GPS took a break today and couldn’t tell us)

random thoughts from the day

Saturday, May 30th, 2009
by Rachael Guess where!
  • When Rob put some rubbish in a public bin tonight, it talked to him. When he added more it said something else!! I was tempted to go and try it out, just to discover what it said.
  • When ... [Continue reading this entry]

connecting historical faith

Friday, May 29th, 2009
by Rach Kehl, Germany – visit to Strasbourg, France The Tower of Babel, the Parting of the Red Sea, The Last Supper, Pentecost – these are a few important markers in the history of Christianity and today we were reminded of ... [Continue reading this entry]

German Snowballs

Friday, May 22nd, 2009
We crested a hill and unexpectedly on the other side we found The Alps! Suddenly spread before us was a wonderful panorama – in the foreground were more of the farms dotted with villages we have been seeing, and which ... [Continue reading this entry]

Humpty Dumpty sat on a wall

Sunday, May 10th, 2009
by Rach, the ponderer Berlin, Germany We need to recite a few more nursery rhymes as we travel; Tgirl5, who was thoroughly familiar with the traditional version of Baa Baa Black Sheep at home, has obviously forgotten the words and now ... [Continue reading this entry]

TRUST

Monday, March 30th, 2009
by an uncharacteristically impulsive buyer Beijing, China “In God we trust”, the official motto of the United States and emblazoned on their currency as a daily reminder, has its counterpart in China. Here bus stops routinely declare:

[Continue reading this entry]

One Big Wall (and not the great one)

Tuesday, March 24th, 2009
by Superwoman Xi’an, China As well as being the most complete city wall that has survived in China, Xi’an’s wall is one of the largest ancient military defensive systems in the world. And today after one cold false start we set ... [Continue reading this entry]

The ego of a tyrant.

Sunday, March 22nd, 2009
by Rach, who was truly fascinated Xi’an, China As if conquering six kingdoms before he turned 40 was not enough, the first ruler to unify China (way way back a couple of hundred years BC) also overcame dialect issues by standardising ... [Continue reading this entry]

this is *really* China

Friday, March 20th, 2009
by the Mama Xi’an, China I peeked out the window, wondering if yet again a train journey would bring an entirely different morning view. Sure enough! We seemed to be in a desert with towering sanddunes, many of which with dark ... [Continue reading this entry]