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bulgaria bids us farewell….almost

Thursday, October 8th, 2009

Biser, Bulgaria

We accept a last minute invitation from our campsite owners, Martin and Shirley, to visit the village where they are living.

We meet an 86 year old lady, one of eight children, full of smiles and seemingly unaware we are non-Bulgarian-literate.

The mayor, who lives next door to our hosts, gives us fresh eggs from her own chooks and grapes from her vine. She also escorts us around town – including giving us a guided tour (with tasting – ooh la la) of the brand spanking new ENORMOUS high quality vinery that has recently opened. At the other end of the economies of scale continuum is a teeny boutiquey vinery right across the road from Martin and Shirley. We peek in and keep wandering up the road to a block of land with enough buildings to start a commune; they are “full of potential” waiting to be realised. The village also boasts a memorial chapel.

We eat the most delicious cakes, dispelling the myth we had heard – that Bulgarians have not worked out how to make food tasty.

We wish we could stay longer.
There is that land we saw…….we do know how to buy it (find a village you like, check no other Brits are already living there, find a Bulgarian to do some negotiating, have them approach the mayor of the village to find out who owns it and if it could be bought….and according to Martin and Shirley, who gave us these instructions, with a little time, the rest would be history)

Branching out from Biser…and Back

Sunday, October 4th, 2009

Biser, Bulgaria

Lunch in Harmanli, the only town we have been in so far where you have to drive up a no exit street right in front of the police station to get to the restaurant!
Staple mixtures of tomatoes, white cheese, egg and cucumber with the famous Bulgarian meatballs and long sausages and fantastically grilled bread.
Enjoyed in a leisurely fashion.
Countless games of backgammon and chess completed.
Relaxing.

All followed by a tiki-tour of Harmanli including last week’s pizza shop, the river, the gypsy quarter, the hotel/nightclub (definitely the fanciest building in town by a l-o-n-g shot, accessed only through the gypsy ghetto!), the church, our-friend-the- policeman’s apartment block, and more abandoned buildings than you would give one town credit for….including a four storey monstrosity which had started out its life destined to be an old folks’ home, but no-one thought to put a lift in it (now it is a concrete shell of floors and a few internal walls), and an even better one….a five or six storey grey concrete box with no stairs at all!

 

Harmanli has only one set of traffic lights, and as our jeep driver pointed out, “They have not been working since democracy.”

 

For all that, Harmanli is a delightful quirky little town caught in a fifty-year timewarp.

Back to Biser.
Because we have a social life!
Drinks with Elena at 5, to be precise. We are Bulgarianly-late; not much, but enough to make her wonder if we were serious about 5 o’clock meaning 6 o’clock!
Elena lives in her parents’ home on a section of about a third of an acre. In this space they grow a massive quince tree, keep bees for honey, a goat for milk and have a newly-acquired calf, not to mention growing vegetables, which are watered from their own well when the town water supply is erratic.
But we didn’t stay here for coffee. Elena  had organised for us to visit the virtually-next-door Tudor House (with its stunning collection of art relating to the two brothers, who designed the Bulgarian alphabet…..that’s what Nikolai was working on when he was killed in a road accident in England), and so the fading English garden became our “parlour”. That, and the bench on the roadside. Many of the ladies I had met yesterday turned up, and with Elena’s help, they received much more satisfactory answers to their questions!

It was dark by the time we trudged back up the hillock to home, a big bag of quinces and a homebrewed bottle of wine in our possession….but we knew the importance of not being in a hurry.

Dinner: potato out of a box (made with UHT milk from another box), German sausages out of a jar, green beans out of a tin and beetroot  from a jar. Adequate, even if not particularly nourishing!

biting Bulgaria

Thursday, October 1st, 2009
Biser, Bulgaria (with a trip up the road to Harmanli) After a pizza lunch (hardly traditional Bulgarian fare!) it seemed a good day to publish this foodie post that has been simmering on the backburner.

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Boring Bulgaria? NO WAY!

Monday, September 28th, 2009

Biser, Bulgaria

We’re supposed to be having a quiet relaxing stay here on the outskirts of a small village. So how is it that there is so much to say about it? It all started with bicycle-horses being manoeuvred around ... [Continue reading this entry]

gourmet greek

Tuesday, September 22nd, 2009

Meteora, Greece

 

Being on a limited budget with lots of mouths to feed means eating out in Europe is a rare occurrence for us (or it means you buy one tiny cheesecake and each enjoy ... [Continue reading this entry]

the back roads

Sunday, September 20th, 2009
Itea, Greece Main roads tend to get you places quickly. Time not being of the essence, we prefer the back roads. Then you get to see the Corinth Canal, and pull over and get out of the vans and take ... [Continue reading this entry]

*most*

Saturday, September 19th, 2009
Athens, Greece Most people spending only two days in Athens, the ancient classical centre for the arts, learning and philosophy, the home of Plato's Academy and Aristotle's Lyceum, birthplace of Socrates, Pericles, Sophocles and democracy, yea even the cradle of Western Civilization, would ... [Continue reading this entry]

island hopping in motorhomes? IMPOSSIBLE!

Friday, September 11th, 2009
Lefkada Island, Greece “Not sure you’ll make it to any Greek islands, not in campervans,” people have commented with a degree of un-hide-able remorse-for-us in their voices. Never easily deterred, we made investigations. Over one thousand euros to get us to ... [Continue reading this entry]

Autumn Arrives

Monday, September 7th, 2009
Brindisi, Italy For the second day in a row the warm wind was howling, stirring up the ocean to waves too fierce for the little kids to venture into. At sunset the night before last, the sky had turned ominously ... [Continue reading this entry]

the last supper

Monday, August 31st, 2009
Bari, Italy If I don’t write about it, it won’t happen, right? So I’ll just say we went out for dinner tonight, Grandpa’s shout. I won’t mention that it was his last meal with us. If we don’t think about ... [Continue reading this entry]