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same river, second bridge

Friday, December 12th, 2008

by Rach
Luang Prabang, Laos

Remember we took a morning ramble the other day? Well, we did it again today, our last full day in this French/Asian-flavoured UNESCO World Heritage town. Actually, truth be known, we go for a wander somewhere every day. It’s just that today we’ll invite you along too. We’ll be the only falang – not another foreigner in sight. If you’re under five years of age, you’ll be given oranges along the way. And the other *orange* you’ll see will be monks’ robes. Hanging up to dry across bamboo poles, and walking along the road, over the bridge, passing you on a dirt track, sitting on steps and in buildings, walking quickly (but not running, no monks do not run and neither do they jump) across a courtyard……Put your shoes on, we’re going to head up the main street of Luang Prabang, past a few temples and monasteries, a school and a plethora of guest houses….at the very end of the peninsula (formed where the Nam Khan and Mekong Rivers meet) is an almost-obscured-from-view dirt track……come on down with us (don’t worry about snakes, I can tell you we won’t be seeing any today, despite the children’s intense desire to come face-to-face with a real live one in the wild)….


Come on, you can do it; it’s not as rickety as it looks, but it does bounce!

We can hear a cheering crowd so we’re going to take the fork in the path that heads towards the sound, OK?

It takes us up a steep hill, but check out those vegetables to admire on the way….and the noise is definitely getting closer!

Ah there it is……

A hand-written sign at the start of the track said there’s a weaving village over here, so let’s go find it….

Now if you turn around, you’ll see another wat compound – yes they’re everywhere.
Let’s go take a closer look at this one…

look again, before we go see the drum….mind those teeth!

Have you had enough? We’re getting peckish, so we’re going to head back for our basket of sticky rice we cooked this morning (we ate half of it for breakfast), and we’re going to pick up some BBQ-ed pork on the way to roll up inside the rice (almost like a sausage roll or hot dog!). Some of us will walk along the river road, and some of the kids are going to zip through the market, probably just for the adventure of going somewhere without adults – who will you come with?

crafty goodness

Saturday, December 6th, 2008

By the Family’s Knitter
Luang Prabang, Laos

 

From December 1-6 Luang Prabang is hosting the first ever Handicraft Festival, which has been organised by the lady we stayed with the first night. She has been instrumental in bringing together a group of crafters to share thoughts, designs and business ideas to preserve and promote local handwork for future generations. They opened their festivities with a Fashion Show, including the current Miss Lao, the province’s governor (he both gave the opening speech and paraded up the catwalk), cute children, a local dance troupe and a stunning array of locally-designed and made costumes. Just between you and me, the evening would have been a greater success if they hadn’t started an hour late (although maybe the lady we went with had her details wrong) and if the ratio of speeches to catwalk action was reversed from 10:3. Not that the thousand-strong crowd seemed to notice the speeches – they chatted right through them all!

We had been intending to not buy any souvenirs, but one aunty gifted the children some money and so we have ended up with some gorgeous handmade gear from both Thailand and Laos. If we were at the end of our trip, about to head home, we would definitely be buying more! Time to show aunty what her Christmas money has gone towards……..no made in China plastic junk!

The clothing is multi-size and should last a few years!!

These are second-hand Hmong materials refashioned into something the tourists will buy – there was a very funky rooster that would definitely bring back memories for us, but the little girls loved their elephant ride so much…and the toys were supposed to be for them 😉 The Hmong ball will provide a tangible link between our reading about the New Year dances with seeing them in real life – besides, it’s fun to play with now.
(Jgirl14 bought herself a cross-stitched backpack instead of clothes).

Balls were being sorely missed, and when another backpacker turned up with a rattan one from Thailand, our boys set out on a mission to find their own in Laos. Our guest house owner had told them they would probably need to pay between 15,000 and 20,000 kip. They didn’t even think to bargain when the first price offer was 10,000!!  And the lady generously gave everyone a miniature one too. Only photo is an action shot tkaen on the banks of the Mekong with some local kids – try to spot da ball:

Jgirl14 has always wanted bagpipes, and the guy on the side of the road was selling, among other things, something very bagpipe-ish, so we were surprised when J14 started negotiating for the simple pan flute. Luckily it doesn’t wail like a cat bagpipes!

insert photo here – oops haven’t taken one!

Crossbow. Need I say more? A month later the boys still can hardly believe they were allowed to bargain for this one!

walk where the road takes you

Friday, December 5th, 2008
text straight from Rach's journal, illustration from Jboy12's Luang Prabang, Laos

 

The children are all sitting on a huge mound of dirt in the shade of a tree, journals open in their laps, pencils sketching ... [Continue reading this entry]

JINGLE BELLS

Monday, December 1st, 2008
By Rachael Luang Prabang, Laos

 

* jingle jingle * jingle jingle * The silver coins decorating skirts, shirts and head-dresses clink together with every step, announcing the arrival of striking black-and-bright-rainbow-pattern-attired Hmong people. Wherever they walk, ... [Continue reading this entry]

What’s in ‘da Hood?

Sunday, November 30th, 2008

by Rob Luang Prabang, Laos 

Wats is around us? (Rach edits: I'm not sure if that's supposed to be another one of the far-too-many-wat-jokes or if it was just a typo!!!!!) What does life look like in a 1km ... [Continue reading this entry]

inspired by experience

Saturday, November 29th, 2008
by Mama Luang Prabang, Laos  "Sabai dee, Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls. Would you please take a seat and put down your electronic games as I am about to perform a puppet show for you. Kop chai lai lai" Elephant made ... [Continue reading this entry]

trekking: an adult’s perspective

Tuesday, November 18th, 2008
taken from Rachael's journal with Rob commenting in italics

trek 1st night

It was surreal to be standing there slightly above most of the Karen village looking down at the smoke curling ... [Continue reading this entry]

burn, baby, burn!

Tuesday, November 11th, 2008
Racing Rob writes.... Sometimes it is just the simple things that bring pleasure - like being able to jump on a bike and ride into the train station to get tickets rather than having to walk or take a tuktuk. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Bangkok Contrast

Wednesday, November 5th, 2008

central bangkok 1

central bangkok 3

central bangkok 10 

There's a Bangkok that is large and ... [Continue reading this entry]

wrapped in love

Monday, September 29th, 2008
Dolls had not made it to the list of Things To Take With Us. Not even for the barely-out-of-toddler-hood pair of sisters. But how could we leave these behind?

One dark-haired, one blonde, just ... [Continue reading this entry]