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Salisbury, Stonehenge and Somewhere Special

Thursday, June 25th, 2009

by Rachael
Looe, England

There’s a famous cathedral in Salisbury, and while we could see the spire from our Parking Spot For The Night, we thought it would be nice to see it in its entirety. Usually we would have walked to it – didn’t look more than a couple of kilometres away – but we knew wer already had a full day of driving ahead (due to Mrs Non-Techno-Gadget Lady having used the GPS to determine route distances, but having done it incorrectly – let’s just say the crow flies a lot straighter than the roads round here – and so leaving us with some mega-drives, which don’t leave much time for looking at things on the way, cooking dinner when we arrive and washing clothes or finding fresh milk). And so on this occasion the executive decision was made to drive past on our way out of town.
Well, we tried. We saw school-uniformed children carrying musical instruments, we saw enormous pots filled with flowers, we saw an old stone gate across a street, we saw cute little storybook houses and pubs and shops – and we saw the cathedral steeple. Perhaps influenced by Constable, we had imagined an open space around the monument, but it just ain’t that way. The town crowds it on all sides – and judging by the look of the buildings, has done so for a very long time. There was no way to Womos were going to get any closer than a sneak peak. So Grandpa walkie-talkied from the front van, “View coming up above the wall” and Aunty hung out the back van trying to take photos. At least we got a story! After two attempts, we admitted defeat and pointed our vans in the direction of Stonehenge.

We can guess and we can presume, we can calculate and we can conjecture, but we will never know. We can see what is there today. We can understand that the seasons are inextricably linked to the structure, and we can have myths and legends surrounding the behemoth monument. But we do not know WHY Stonehenge is and was. Stonehenge is a good starting point for discussions about limitations of knowledge and differences between facts and assumptions. Set in the Salisbury Plain, it’s also a not bad place for photos and provided a very well done audio tour.

Then we drive and drive and drive. Over hill and dale, through countryside that I totally don’t see. Not being the most confident driver around, my eyes do not veer far from the white lines on the roads where squashed rabbits, hedgehogs, badger, birds and even a deer lie. Occasionally I flick my eyes upwards to ensure overhanging branches will not pick up one of the bikes off the roof.
Somerset….Devon….Cornwall – apparently it is all very pretty. On our first day in England we had pulled over to admire the view  – we need to do it more often. When there’s room, that is. Take a look at how we fill the road on our last leg today:

(Actually, the picture is taken tomorrow on our way out again, but, believe me, the lane had not widened an inch overnight!)

Up the 17% hill (that’s steep, really steep, go-up-in-first-gear-steep), turn right at the animal sanctuary and go down the hill. Rob had real fun on this road today with a police car behind him and meeting oncoming obviously-non-reversing-able traffic….Bear Cave and Mr Plod had to reverse back to a slightly wider stretch for a squeezy manoeuvre (it will be my turn tomorrow!)
The gate was open, but even still we did not fit through. It had to be completely removed to allow us passage – there was JUST room to squish on to the white and grey pebbled driveway.
Our stopping spot for the night commanded perhaps one of the most spectacular views of all southern Cornwall – straight out across tall grass fields, over a haha, past short grass fields filled with sheep and horses to the sea, the village of Looe tumbling over the headland in the distance. Just beautiful.
At our feet the children were discovering frogs and five different grasses, some taller than themselves – plus a stone tiger hiding up a hill and the black and white Cornish flag flying from the rooftop, and we learnt that Cornwall is the only English county to have their own flag.
We were surely somewhere very very special.

Time on the road: need to check Jboy13’s record!
Distance covered: 287km

* STellendam * STop * STuck * ooSTende *

Saturday, June 20th, 2009

by a weary driver
Oostende, Belgium

At 246km, it was slated to be our longest driving day so far. And if we remember correctly that it took us eleven hours to travel only 200km in Laos, then today rivals that record too. Not because the road was treacherous or because we were climbing mountains; we simply got stuck in a traffic jam.

For one hour.

Two hours.

Three.

Four.

Five.

Six.

Seven hours.

Yes, seven hours in one traffic jam going almost nowhere. Even blatting along at 90km/hr for much of the journey did little to raise our day’s average speed – 21km/hr!
We were aiming to arrive in Oostende early afternoon so that we would be assured of getting two parking spots for the night in preparation for catching the ferry tomorrow. We have learnt it is best to turn up early on a Saturday. We did not expect to be still sitting in traffic in the late afternoon! About 5pm we thought we were finally approaching the hold-up tunnel and with well over 120km still to travel, agreed we would keep driving once we were through. We’d stop for dinner at 7pm.
Oh no we wouldn’t. At seven we still hadn’t entered the tunnel. That moment was still half an hour away! And if we thought (as we did) that we would start zooming once the five lanes of traffic had merged into one, we were wrong. We continued to stop-start creep through the one-lane-open two-lanes-closed tunnel. At least this gave us time to inspect the 0.6million euros worth of work being done. Except there was nothing to see other than a “men working” sign. Certainly no sign of any men or any work either. Bizarre. Out the other side of the tunnel were road works for a few kilometres – that is to say, there was evidence that road works were in progress, although nothing was happening on a Saturday afternoon and the road remained blocked off – holding traffic captive at its near standstill pace for A Bit Longer. Bizarre.

You’d think that with the prospects of a seven hour delay for thousands of vehicles including hundreds of trucks, the authorities would have suggested a recommended detour. We’d have happily travelled an extra hour out of our way instead of sitting almost motionless for seven hours! 
Mind you, then we wouldn’t have had friendly conversations out the windows with fellow trapped travellers, we wouldn’t have had the opportunity to walk up and down the motorway collecting knitting, delivering sandwiches, grabbing apples, we wouldn’t have considered making some money hiring out our on-board toilet and offering coffee and chocolate “Te koop”, and we probably wouldn’t have had fun naming our travelling companions….Mrs Mercedes, whose cream suit camouflaged her perfectly against the cream leather upholstery in her sparkling new car….The Currant Bun Couple who ate two buns each, put another two away for later and then when later arrived, they ate them…..the bockwurst bunch, who ate their sausages straight from the jar and later switched to apples…Herr Polskiego, who kept swerving over the road presumably to see what was happening up ahead, the Horn Happies (at one stage a dozen or so vehicles all started honking in unison – at other times random honks vented pent-up frustration), the Croissant Lady, the Stalled Girl, the Turks, Mrs Chinese who read an entire Dutch newspaper, the Africans (who asked for some of our sandwiches!), Mr Shiek (it seemed half of the Arab nations were in our traffic jam)……

After six hours of sitting in her carseat (what a trooper!!!), and having travelled only 500 metres in the previous hour, it was decided that it was safe enough for ERgirl3 to be released from captivity. Tgirl5 also appeared at the back window, wearing a most appropriate t-shirt!

Grandpa pretended to do Sudokus and dropped none-too-subtle hints about food.

Rob played the goat (and this pic is BEFORE he went through his try-to-make-a-story-up-from-every-sign-we-see phase….that got REALLY goaty, but I think you need to have been sitting in non-moving traffic for a whole day to be able to appreciate any of it and so I won’t try to make you laugh with us by sharing the details – you really had to be there – heehee).

I took pictures, knowing that we were living today’s story.


including out the rear view mirror to match Tgirl5’s t-shirt

Time on the road: need to check Jboy13’s record!
Distance covered: 246km

you’ve been asking

Friday, June 19th, 2009
by Rach Stellendam, Holland Our email inbox is full of “when are you coming home?” messages. Today I’m supposed to be able to tell you the answer. But I can’t. Sorry. We tried to book online, but couldn’t, because groups cannot exceed nine people and ... [Continue reading this entry]

children should be seen and not heard

Wednesday, June 17th, 2009
by the mother Stellendam, The Netherlands How many of us grew up hearing that? Not really holding to the philosophy myself (I’m more in to *children are people too and have a contribution to make, but sometimes need help learning when and ... [Continue reading this entry]

fierce allegiances

Tuesday, June 16th, 2009
by Rachael Stellendam, Zeeland, The Netherlands To be honest, we were overcome with the politeness of the drivers in Germany. You needed only to turn your indicator on and even the biggest trucks would move over to allow you passage into ... [Continue reading this entry]

time marches on

Sunday, June 14th, 2009
by Rachael Vianen, Holland She peeked out that window. She saw Jews walking along the street and felt guilty, as if she had betrayed them by hiding. She agonised about fresh air. She felt trapped. She felt proud to be a ... [Continue reading this entry]

amsterdam antics

Saturday, June 13th, 2009
by a Mama, whose knee will not get better – still swollen and wound filled with pus Amsterdam, Holland THE MORNING: driving to Amsterdam flat flat flat

windmills windmills windmills

 

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“eat local”

Thursday, June 11th, 2009
by Rachael at the yacht harbour, Burgum, Holland When in Malaysia, eat your fill of roti canai and durian. When in Thailand switch to Pad Thai. When you get to Laos, enjoy the BBQ-ed chicken (or bats). When in Cambodia, appreciate the wide variety ... [Continue reading this entry]

Good-bye Germany, Hallo Holland

Tuesday, June 9th, 2009
by an aching, throbbing Rach Dinxperlo, Holland Dinxperlo Doesn’t that just have a ring about it? Choosing our route northwards, this sounded as good a place as any a delightful place to make the border crossing. Dinxperlo. And so we found ourselves in ... [Continue reading this entry]

fun and games

Monday, June 8th, 2009
by Rach, who loved the slide as much as the children Koeln, Germany The morning: Yesterday we had seen a playground with a fantastic-looking slide across the river. Today we investigated it more closely:

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