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eleven down, four to go

Sunday, September 6th, 2009

Capitolo, Italy

11 months since we left home
111 days we’ve been on the road in the vans
(and an extra week squished into one of them while we waited for the second one to be ready)
131 places we’ve slept in so far
(60 before the vans, 71 on the road trip)
93 watchers were keeping an eye on one of our Ebay auctions
(32 on the other one)

We’ve had the vans on Ebay, but not because we’re coming home. Not just yet.
While we’ve got good internet access in Italy we thought we’d list them to see if there was any interest, knowing it was a long shot when they would not be ready to be parted with for another two months. Seems interest is high. Could be the low asking price!
The Bear Cave, the one with the highest interest level, sold tonight….to….of all people….a kiwi bidding from India. She, along with kids and German husband, are on their way to Europe….bidding on a van sight unseen from the other side of the world….it all sounds a bit familiar. We hope they’ll be as happy with it as we have been.
The Other Van has yet to sell. Do you know anyone in Frankfurt looking for a vehicle?

Even when we abandon the vans, we will not be coming home. Spring will be well and truly breaking through Down Under, but we will be zipping into a short winter before we seek out another summer. PostRoadTrip we plan to revert to busses and trains to move us eastwards to our old haunts in Krakow, before heading to reunite with friends for a hopefully snowy Romanian month and then a final fling in Istanbul.
While we have treasured the freedom and spontaneity the vans have afforded us (not to mention the next-to-non-existent accommodation costs and the ability to cook for ourselves), we’re looking forward to not being the drivers again, and being able to feast our eyes on more of the passing scenery. We’re looking forward to stopping in a place for more than a few days and enjoying the greater sense of connectedness that accompanies a longer sojourn. We’re looking forward to having to eat out. We’re looking forward to donning our backpacks and using our feet again.

We’re so glad that when we woke this morning to cheers of “Happy Father’s Day Dad, we’ve been away for exactly eleven months today!” there was no “and it’s only twenty-something days until we go home” as we had originally planned.
We’re not quite ready to be going home; we are, however, thinking about home. Over the past couple of weeks we have been processing aloud which world foods we want to take back to our kitchen. We have contemplated not *having* to conserve water (though mother has asked the question: just because we CAN use it freely, unthinkingly, *should* we?) We even ended up discussing routines and chores and study plans and there was a sense of expectation, rather than dread.  Thoughts have occasionally strayed to new opportunities.

Sitting on the beach this week, scratching in the sand, I designed a (Rob’s words) “ridiculous thirty square metre house” for us to build on a piece of land we started internetly searching for the other night. Actually, the house plan was a bit bigger than Rob’s estimate, but definitely smaller than our current home, which is going to seem far too big!

Last night we threw out the *what would you like to do when we get home* question to the children, which within an hour elicited a long letter from one child and lists of aspirations from all the others. Even ERgirl3 knows she wants to write, play and stay up late.
Rob is having similar thoughts (not so much about playing as finding a role to fit into back at his money-giving establishment) and is anticipating receiving a phone call tonight to explore options. Walking out the door at 7:30 in the morning is going to be a rude shock to his system. Watching him go will be a shock to ours. From the vantage point of having been constantly together (and eventually getting completely on each other’s nerves as we renegotiated roles and parenting styles…then coming through the other side to working together and enjoying each other’s presence), I strongly favour a take-less-money-from-the-boss spend-more-time-working-on-the-farm option. Not that we have a farm. Yet.

Rach’s Bikini Shot

Saturday, September 5th, 2009

Capitolo, Italy

A friend’s request for what is stated in the title inspired today’s post. Read on only if you dare!

Bikinis there are aplenty on Italian beaches. The little girls just wear bikini bottoms, but once they grow up, they do not seem to favour the French idea of continuing in the same vein – Italians don bikini tops. This does not necessarily mean they are any more covered. To quote Frances Mayes, the swimwear is decidedly “inadequate-to-the-task”. Bikini bottoms, certainly not designed to cover cheeks, achieve their intended goal, which would seem to be to provide something for females to spend their days adjusting.
In contrast to Holland and France, where we saw not a single one-piece costume, some of  the Italian Mamas….or Grandmamas actually….squish their years of good pasta into swimsuits that barely contain the bulges, rippling instead with each movement they make. When I say *some* of them wear one-pieces, I mean we have seen maybe half a dozen in all the beaches we have been at, most of them here.

So when in Rome…..and not yet being a grandmama…..

Well, before you get the picture, we’ve got to deal with the men.

Here you will find, along with the selection of the smallest white speedos you have ever seen, a pair of red and white striped tights – not longlegged ones, but to call them shorts would be misleading. Rob reckons they’re worse than the speedos.

Up and down the beach these skimpy outfits prance, at the water’s edge they bounce about lunging into the ocean after straying volleyballs. Or they lie on towels or recline on loungers soaking up the sun’s rays.

All the bodies are brown. A deep golden-hued rich brown. Watching the hordes worship the sun god, our historical understanding deepens.

Then there’s us.
In apparent contempt of the blazing sun, I will always have make-the-Chinese-jealous-fair skin. On a beach of bronzed beauties, I will always be the lighthouse beacon. When I’m not cowering under a shadecloth, that is, recoiling from the ancient ritual, avoiding the threat of death by cancer. My children will also be safe. They are the only ones running the beach in board shorts and rash shirts. I don’t think they’ve noticed; maybe there are enough of them to create their own fashion statement, to be a new trend! Maybe they are just too busy enjoying the waves and trying to catch the fish and avoiding sea urchins to notice. Maybe being different just doesn’t bother them. I’m sure they’d have commented if they felt out of place – they have no qualms about sharing their observations, no matter how obvious – like Mboy6, who stated matter-of-factly, “The men are fat. Their stomachs poke out like this.” And he balled his arms to produce a pot in front of his own sticking-out ribs. And he was right.
Most of the older men DO have big stomachs, which look quite funny ballooning out from their stick-like legs. The women have good legs too. They can have the roly-poly-est stomachs and wobbling, flapping upper arms, but their legs are beautifully shaped. No pear shapes in this part of the world.

Anyway, you’re waiting for a picture, aren’t you?

That’s me, white me, proving I went in the water. Actually, I went in much deeper than that and as the children had promised, it was beautifully clear and lots of fun, but in spite of the temperature being above thirty, I still got cold! Said kids, when they were tempting me to join them in the deep had lured me with the thought that, “There are even fish out there, really tame ones”, a line they changed to, “But they don’t come near you” when they discovered I really don’t like fish getting up close and personal (unless they are on my plate dressed in lemon juice) – and it turned out they WERE tame and, like the Italian bodies on the beach who have a much closer personal space than we are accustomed to, they did not object to brushing fin on skin. Too close for me. I lasted half an hour. I can only imagine what a short dip it would have been, had I been wearing a bikini.
But I will not don a two-piece until Rob sports speedos.

For his part, he argues we are no longer in Rome so the adage is irrelevant (or to quote him more directly, “No budgie smugglers in this van.”)

the last supper

Monday, August 31st, 2009
Bari, Italy If I don’t write about it, it won’t happen, right? So I’ll just say we went out for dinner tonight, Grandpa’s shout. I won’t mention that it was his last meal with us. If we don’t think about ... [Continue reading this entry]

kids click

Thursday, August 27th, 2009
Paestum, Italy A quiet day at the beach with pictures of clear blue water reflecting clear blue sky, a heat haze shimmering on the horizon, just might be too taunting a post two days in a row. But looking through ... [Continue reading this entry]

neapolitan christmas

Tuesday, August 25th, 2009
Battipaglia, Italy As a child, neapolitan meant icecream to me. Chocolate, strawberry, vanilla. Of course, it is also “of naples”. And today that’s where we went.

 

We only spent a couple of hours in the historic town ... [Continue reading this entry]

when in Rome….

Saturday, August 22nd, 2009
….let your imagination run wild.

I scurry from shadow to shadow, snatching what cool I can, evading the fierce rays beaming down from the eternally blue canopy. I wait in line at one of the ... [Continue reading this entry]

slow travel

Saturday, August 8th, 2009
by Rach industrial estate just past Montpellier, France the wind still blows; not a whisper, not a howl, just sufficient to render the beach unattractive we move on the map indicates about 170km, not too far so we stop and shop, a whole week’s ... [Continue reading this entry]

Mediterranean Moment

Friday, August 7th, 2009
by Rachael Narbonne-Plage, France

wind: blowing fiercely a-l-l   d-a-y   l-o-n-g demanding trees bow low, forcing sand along the beach, whipping washing to stand at attention completely U-P-R-I-G-H-T on the clothesline, never-a-moment-stopping hot ceaseless blast the mistral blows

It blows and makes a day at ... [Continue reading this entry]

things that go bump in the night

Thursday, August 6th, 2009

 

“It’s going to be a great spot to catch the sunrise,” Jgirl14 correctly informed us before going to bed last night, and in preparation she set the alarm and kept the camera at the ... [Continue reading this entry]

in search of shade

Wednesday, August 5th, 2009
by Rach hovering just above the coast near Narbonne, looking out at the Mediterranean Sea It doesn’t seem that long ago that we were desperately in search of sun. Today we, with the rest of the population in the south, looked ... [Continue reading this entry]