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rubbish!

Wednesday, December 31st, 2008

by someone with questions
Phnom Penh, Cambodia

It’s four hours later and my eyes are still stinging, there’s still that catchy taste lingering at the back of my throat, despite having eaten an ice-cream and a plate of rice noodles.
Where’s the sense in that? We turn out backs on lives at the rubbish dump to eat ice-cream. Today’s tasted different to other desserts, and it wasn’t just the bad taste already in my mouth. There was nothing sweet about what we had witnessed.

How do you make sense of the smoking fume-y haze almost obliterating from view a man squatting beside his two sacks atop a mountain of rubbish?

How do you make sense of the flies buzzing around three barefoot boys walking down the “road” sharing a piece of bread, one of them sporting a white bandage on his almost-bald black head?

How do you make sense of a young lad hitching a ride on a rubbish truck when my own children climb trees?

 

How do you make sense of burnt trees, grass sprouting from rubbish, temporary-natured shacks and the pristine brightly-painted brand new apartments rising behind them?

How do you make sense of an eight-month-old baby in a party dress, dirt and snot mingling on her face?

 

How do you make sense of rubbish trucks spewing treasure?

How do you make sense of a drink of water being offered to a friend?

How do you make sense of the paths we get to take?

How do you make sense of literacy amongst piles of paper?

How do you make sense of a discarded shoe? Or the slight triumph on one lady’s face at securing a matching laceless pair?

How do you make sense of orderliness in chaos?

How do you make sense of open windows beside the stench?

How do you make sense of burden? 

How do you make sense of a smile? 

How do you make sense of coke?

How do you make sense of filth? 

How do you make sense of irony?

How do you make sense of a business shirt?

How do you make sense of colour?

How do you make sense of contemplation?

How do you make sense of sacks?

How do you make sense of life experience? 

 

How do you make sense of the beauty above?

How do you make sense of what these eyes see?

You don’t.
You eat ice-cream.
You pray that your six-year-old will never forget saying, “I’m so glad we were born in a rich country” and that a maturing view will accompany the coming years that will be added to his life.
You determine to encourage your eleven-year-old as he sits on his bed “just thinking how to fix poverty.” Today we discovered he now goes to sleep every night pondering this question. He’s grown up a lot in the last two months.
And you hope you made the right decision to take the children to that desolate place, but you’ll never know.
There is no sense.

pictures from Stung Meanchey rubbish dump, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

*S*O*S*

Monday, December 29th, 2008

By Mama, who was peaceful and prayerful 
Phnom Penh, Cambodia


“It was a rather un-fun morning.
It felt really weird being able to open my eyes, but not see.”
 
                                                                             ~ Kgirl-almost10

Today’s plan to visit the Killing Fields had not been intended for fun, but little did we expect to spend the morning at the SOS Hospital. However, that’s what you do when Kgirl9 unexpectedly and suddenly collapses at the market and loses her sight. When she looks so vacant and is understandably concerned that her eyes are open, but seeing nothing, you don’t hang around to finish your shopping. You might if you had a medical background and recognised the signs of dehydration, but I lacked that knowledge. All I had was the decision we had made not to take anti-malarial medication potentially condemning me.

And so we carried the limp 30kg form up the road, calling out, “Doctor? Doctor?” to a non-understanding audience. We crossed Busy Street almost effortlessly and K9 stumbled a few steps before the blurriness returned. I declined an offer of a motorbike – I know they fit five people on one bike here, but I could not see how we were going to hold our invalid on. Mrs H zipped in to a guesthouse where we knew a Cambodian lady spoke English while I continued home. I left K9 in a heap on a chair outside and ran up the three flights of stairs, shouting out to Rob. Having quickly imparted the bare bones of the story, I flew back down the stairs with passports and money to a tuktuk that had pulled up. English-speaking-lady suggested we go to the local children’s hospital, but upon hearing we had insurance she sent us to the International SOS Hospital. What a good choice. We stumbled out of the tuktuk and supported K9 inside between us. Before we could even sit her down someone appeared, grabbed a wheelchair and whisked us off to an examination room, taking the history as we walked, and calling out, “Trauma team.” It was very reassuring.
Over the next three hours we were seen by a couple of very competent conservative doctors in a professional-looking environment. We left a smear of blood on the bed, and there was something that looked like dried vomit, but apart from that everything was sterile. The needles came out of sealed packages and were disposed of after use. The paint on the walls was barely dry – renovations of the ten-year-old facility had been completed just two months ago and it had the appearance of any modern hospital, with service superior to any we have experienced in NZ.
Pretty quickly they started treating for dehydration, with the promise of leaving the lure in just in case she would need some other medication. But the major issues (like bird flu) were fairly conclusively ruled out early on, and a couple of hours later a blood test had ruled out malaria and probably dengue fever (that won’t show for another two days in the blood, but her platelet count was high, which means it is unlikely she has it, plus she doesn’t have a rash and she hasn’t got a fever any more either).
Once the litre of saline solution had been pumped in and she’d drunk four glasses of electrolyte, she really needed the toilet – the cleanest toilet we’ve seen in our travels! Thankfully I accompanied her, as she soon felt like vomiting and her vision went blurry again. Back to bed. More water. A bit of waiting. Tried sitting up again – more blurry vision, but not the total blackout like she’d had at the market. Blood tests came back, and with them, relief. Dehydration we can deal with. And prevent. As for the “non-specific Cambodian virus” diagnosis, we’ll never know which one she has caught, as they do not have the facilities to test here (words from the doctor, who sounded like he wished he could provide something more conclusive).

We were all set to walk out when K9 asked if she could have the lure removed! Her emotions welled up at this point and a few tears trickled down her cheek as the plasters were pulled off. It probably wasn’t really that bad, but the combination of heat and foreignness and uncertainty and no-breakfast-yet-even-though-it-was-already-lunchtime and I-want-to-go-home quietly bubbled over.
Tentatively we escorted her up the hallway and paid.
US$201.02
And we had to pay the two cents! Good thing Mrs H was carrying a 100 riel note (most things costs thousands here so she had been complaining about how useless it was to have hundreds, but this one proved useful!) For such professional service, it seemed a small price to pay. We came home loaded up with more electrolyte powder, total cost $1.92 (that’s where the two cents came from above!)
The tuktuk drivers on that side of town drive a hard bargain and we were a little ripped off to get home, but we were not going to walk. The driver we used didn’t really know where he was going and when I spotted our street, we pointed it out to him! U-turns across the traffic are no problem here!!!!!! And actually, on the way TO the hospital I was quite grateful that our driver hadn’t cared about driving on the wrong side of the road to go the quickest way.

Now it’s late afternoon and K9 has been lying down all day. She is much more perky. She has drunk gallons and has some colour back in her cheeks. She managed to come out with the quote at the top of the page.

 

 

The two little girls are not as bad, but not so good either. They are still sporting fevers (39.9 and 39.1 degrees – down from the 40.3 high) and are thoroughly miserable lying about doing nothing, just wanting Dadda-cuddles. If they are still hot tomorrow we will not book bus tickets for travelling on the 31st as we had planned to. Instead we’ll take them to the hospital for malaria and dengue fever testing on travel day (it’ll be fever day five, the day dengue can show up). We had imagined two weeks of zipping round the country with our friends and so it is a bit frustrating to feel like we are mucking them about when we have a limited time frame with them. Thankfully they are understanding and one day we’ll laugh about the trip when they missed a flight and got lost in a Bangkok tuktuk and spent hours in hospital in Phnom Penh…..we may not accomplish all we had hoped to, but we’ve made some memories together.

further away than we thought!

Saturday, December 20th, 2008
sighed into the computer by Rob Bangkok, Thailand Jboy13(as of today) and I settled ourselves in a strategic corner of the airport-designated "Meeting Point" outside Arrival Hall Exit B with a feeling of quiet satisfaction. We had managed to successfully catch ... [Continue reading this entry]

?Christmas?

Friday, December 19th, 2008
by someone listening to carols on the ipod Vientiane, Laos to Bangkok, Thailand via Nong Khai, Thailand There are signs of Christmas in communist Laos. That is to say, there are Christmas trees and fairy lights and a Santa-at-the-north-pole-scene outside a ... [Continue reading this entry]

history in a jar

Monday, December 15th, 2008
by Rach-the-tourist Phonsavanh, Laos

 

Having seen a few photos of the large stone jars for which this region is famous, I was expecting them to be bigger (6 tonnes is big, right?). But while ... [Continue reading this entry]

If I were Noah….

Sunday, December 14th, 2008
By a very tired Rach Phonsavanh, Laos If I were Noah....there's one animal I'd have refused entry to the ark! Please allow me to explain. One of our readers commented: I'd love to hear stories about teamwork, group problem solving and other ... [Continue reading this entry]

Why did the chicken cross the road?

Saturday, December 13th, 2008
by Rachael Luang Prabang to Phonsavanh, Laos We don't know why - but we did see lots of them trying to on the road from Luang Prabang to Phonsavanh. And I mean dozens, not two or three. We are bouncing down the ... [Continue reading this entry]

pity he doesn’t like papaya (silly boy)

Saturday, December 13th, 2008
by Mama, who adores papaya Luang Prabang, Laos

We're going to miss this family. We've been here just shy of three weeks, but it feels like we really are part of the family. Yesterday ... [Continue reading this entry]

coconut afternoon

Friday, December 12th, 2008
By Rach Luang Prabang, Laos

Papa and Mama (the grandparents of the family, parents to our guesthouse owner) in the next guesthouse have a large garden up the Mekong. On Sunday one of the ... [Continue reading this entry]

same river, second bridge

Friday, December 12th, 2008
by Rach Luang Prabang, Laos Remember we took a morning ramble the other day? Well, we did it again today, our last full day in this French/Asian-flavoured UNESCO World Heritage town. Actually, truth be known, we go for a wander ... [Continue reading this entry]