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simply welcoming

Monday, April 27th, 2009

by Rach
Tallinn, Estonia

We’re in a community house.
Breakfast is shared with a red-hat-wearing dreadlock-bearded Santa Claus’s helper. This Finnish man actually went to school with Santa Claus. We certainly didn’t have any inkling we’d be meeting *him* when when we set out over six months ago! He’s an interesting bloke. We discover that although he can walk, he has a broken spine and that he has a genetic degenerative disease as well. But he is thankful that he can call himself “completely disabled” and concentrate on the things that matter in life. He possesses powers such as being able to harness the wind, being able to detect God’s presence (the hairs stand up on his arm – and I cynically thought he was cold <wink>), being able to become invisible (useful when he is sleeping out in the forest), and he receives messages to pass on to world leaders. What’s more, parliamentarians (at least in the Baltic) listen to him – today he has an audience with one, and a meeting with people involved in the Clean Up Estonia campaign. He is passionate about making the world a better place, disposing of rubbish in particular and encouraging people to live in harmony. He is working on a vision to have countries everywhere clean up their rubbish; he’s contacting heads of state, environmental ministers and all forms of media to promote his utopian dream.
Although he feels he was failed by school, which he left at fourteen years of age, he is a very educated man and talks knowledgeably over the course of the morning about insect pheromones, Estonian historical literature, etymology, nutrients in food, monastic practices, political systems, human evolution, community.

A few hours later the conversation is still swirling through Jgirl14’s mind.
”So what did you think of this morning’s conversation?” she asks as we prepare food together in the tiny kitchen. We hold Santa’s Helper’s worldview up against our own.

He sees a little bit of God in everyone, everyone is god. Disagree.
He says everyone is made in the image of God. Agree.
He believes Utopia is possible here. Disagree.
He wants to work towards a society that considers others before self. Agree.

The nuances of meaning are close, but distinctive. We discuss.

But he’s not the only one at breakfast. A young man involved in setting up food co-operatives with local preferably organic produce joins the conversation – people’s relationships with food sources becomes the topic and many of my own mantras are repeated with a foreign accent.

A couple of girls sit on donated armchairs, deep in their own discussion. Another flies in and out of the kitchen. They’ve been living in this rented house for almost a year, and with donated and scavenged materials, in a labour of love and passion they are turning it into a welcoming community home. A large wooden house, during the Soviet era it had been turned into a multi-family dwelling, which was left to go to rack and ruin with a series of alcoholic inhabitants. Now it’s on the way to being a community resource with nine people living here permanently and many many more turning up for meals and choir practice and bike repairs and companionship and and and.
Before they started there was no shower – now there is also a washing machine, a toilet and a tap in the kitchen. Before we came there was an attic space. The day of our arrival, they laid six sheets of chipboard, opened the windows and collected mattresses – and voila, this one-tap-house was ready to more than double its occupancy. When we walked in two pots of curry were simmering on the stove – it was Bollywood night and we were, of course, invited to the party. Someone apologised for the state of the kitchen – they were still cleaning up from the previous night’s party! This was looking like a fun place to stay, and that was before we had even met Santa’s Helper.

It did turn out to be a great home. By Western standards it is incomplete – it’s a breezy (especially the attic with its big gaps in the unlined walls) unfinished wooden house, with not one wall totally painted, with uneven floors, with a kitchen opening so low you have to duck to get through unscathed, with holes in the walls and cobwebs hanging from the ceilings. But it is also a place of music (it seems there is always someone playing some of the instruments lying around, or a choir exercising their vocal chords), it is a place of art (and not mass-produced prints – the people who live here create and display), it is a place of conversation, of cooking together (even Anzac biscuits a few days late), of books (including No Logo, national geographics and Diana Leafe Christian’s “Creating a Life Together” providing practical tools for growing ecovillages and intentional communities, which I have skimmed with interest), it is a place of laughter, it is intergenerational, it is a place of industry (there’s a bike repair service downstairs and it’s the base for a pedicab business too), it’s a place of sustainability (you should see the compost pile) and of generous hospitality. Again we have been welcomed.


                                                                                                           our attic wall

We found her!

Saturday, April 25th, 2009

by the Mama, who loves watching the children connect their learning
St Petersburg, Russia

Last year we read Gloria Whelan’s book, “The Angel on the Square”. So captivated by the descriptions, we added St Petersburg to our wish-list-itinerary, and we purchased the two sequels to “Angel” as well (The Impossible Journey and Burying the Sun, both of which we enjoyed immensely). Jgirl14 even corresponded with the author, hoping to learn more about the process of writing.

Imagine our delight to round the corner of a most fancy building (The Hermitage, actually) and see her standing there on one foot, still clutching a cross atop her taller-than-we-had-imagined column. We found her, the angel.
That was yesterday at the end of a long walk. Today we returned for a less tired look and to explore the Hermitage too.

Elegance in the extreme.
Excessive opulence.
Treasures beyond rich.

You get an inkling for why there might have been an uprising, a revolution!

This is one place that must be seen to be believed. Chandeliers with enough bulbs to illuminate a small city hang almost modestly from highly ornamented ceilings, and not just one or two of them! Walls are adorned with one of the most comprehensive art collections in the world (although if I may be critical, the lighting is dreadful – full sunlight streaming in so in some cases you cannot even see the pictures unless you stand to the side, and some of the paintings are covered with glass, but not even non-reflective glass). Underfoot perfectly-laid swirling parquet patterns and intricate mosaics lead from one hall to the next. Even the sheer number of rooms  is mind-boggling; over 300 of them. Navigating through the maze is not difficult – each doorway marked with a golden number plaque is on the colour-coded map, and the profusion of windows allows you to get your bearings from the embankment or square outside. Children hone map-reading skills in an effort to guide us around. We follow a tour group along a corridor. They stop in front of a clock, our attention is grabbed by a pink-gowned beauty hanging on the wall.


“Maria! There she is!” And quickly (but sedately, of course) we move along to see if her sisters and brother share this corridor space. One sister, yes. Two sisters, yes. We found them! But no brother, just two pictures of father. Back and forth we wander between the paintings, comparing them with our own mental images, telling Dadda all we can remember from our novel-reading.
On we walk in search of the dining room, where everyone was eating before being arrested. Here. Right here. This room. Really at this table? This chipped white table? I resist the urge to reach out and touch it.
The poignancy of the moment is interrupted…..where’s Tgirl5? Not with her mother. Not with her father. Not with her Grandpa. Not with her buddy. To be fair to her, she had not been directed to stay with any of these in particular – we had been wandering en masse, enjoying together. But Tgirl5 is not in the dining room. She is not in the adjoining hall. She is not in the room next door. Retracing our steps, we do not find her in the corridor with our novel-character-friends, nor in the named-by-us “ballroom”, nor in the “throne room”, nor the generals’ gallery with its missing pictures. Ten minutes has passed. We regroup. Grandpa and remaining children settle to wait in one spot while Rob heads in one direction and I make for the wide sweeping staircase with its red carpet held in place with golden rods. Being the weekend, it is busy and I struggle to spot rainbow-coloured legs amongst the mostly-dark-clothed crowd. Back and forth, up and down, another ten minutes passes. Where *is* she? Back to meeting spot. I take a ticket from Rob’s pocket so I can get back in to the building if I need to leave. We separate and look some more. Back to the meeting spot again. No Rob. He has embarked on a whirlwind tour of every single room on the second floor, and even at his long-legged pace, it’s going to take a full twenty minutes. I, meanwhile, set out in search of an information booth or Lost Children Room. Back along the now-familiar corridor, through rooms already oft-traversed towards the broad staircase, at the top of which is gingerly stepping a little girl in bright pants holding a grandmotherly hand, which has already given out lollipops and chocolates and toffees and a banana. The small one is obviously trying hard not to sob too much, but when she looks up and sees me across the expanse, she runs, dissolving into my embrace. I found her!
Profuse thanks offered to Helpful Babcia, relief is quickly replaced by wondering. How long will we have to wait for Rob to turn up? Will we be able to find that Renoir I passed, but couldn’t look at? Will we find the da Vinci again? We do. And Monet, Gauguin, Cezanne, Degas, van Gogh, Matisse, Picasso, Rousseau, Gainsborough, unknown painter……you name it, it was there. Well, almost. We couldn’t find any Constables in the British collection, but it’s quite possible there are some tucked away in the archives – less than half the works are on display at any one time. So many paintings.

Kgirl10 comments, “I can see why they didn’t want to sleep when they were taking the pictures down.” She’s referring to the removal of the pictures during World War II in case of bombing, a little snippet of information remembered from the Whelan trilogy. Real life and fact-based fiction merge into a new story.

PS
Before the Hermitage Visit we managed to squeeze in a walk to the Summer Gardens (closed for drying out after the snow until next week!) and passed a magnificent church on the way. Strains of Vivaldi filled the air as an old man in black coat busked beside the canal. Cultured beauty.

PPS
St Petersburg is a lovely city. We only wish we could have longer here. There are so many museums and art galleries, cathedrals, churches and beautiful architecture, not to mention theatres with productions of everything from Don Quixote to Swan Lake (or Heaven and Hell if that’s more your scene). You could spend a month here and not run out of *culture*

authentic anak

Saturday, April 11th, 2009
by Rach Orkhon, Mongolia I was a teeny bit apprehensive about signing up for time at Anak Ranch. It might be a real working farm, but it also has a snazzy website and is supposedly set up to cater to ... [Continue reading this entry]

in praise of writing

Monday, March 23rd, 2009
by the Mama, who paints her pictures with words Xi’an, China It’s a rare day that goes by without any journalling. In fact, it might even be accurate to say we have journalled Every Single Day so far. And it’s been interesting ... [Continue reading this entry]

*magical*

Friday, March 13th, 2009

By Rach (who left her knitting at home this day) Hong Kong “It was worth lots of ice creams,” Lboy8 commented as we strolled away from the most breathtaking fireworks display. Boom after boom of colour had sprinkled and spiralled ... [Continue reading this entry]

1-2-3 a-b-c

Wednesday, March 11th, 2009
by Mama-Teacher Hong Kong (back in Kowloon) It almost felt like a New Zealand kind of learning day today. When I popped down to the bakery to pick up our lunch goodies (OK, so maybe not entirely NZ-ish!), a biggish boy accompanied ... [Continue reading this entry]

How To Be Idle

Tuesday, January 20th, 2009
book review and related contemplations by Rachael Phnom Penh, Cambodia I'm having a read-fest; three books in four days. YAY for guesthouses with libraries and YAY for staying in one place long enough to finish a complete tome. Some of Tom Hodgkinson's ... [Continue reading this entry]

party party…

Tuesday, December 2nd, 2008
by Rach Luang Prabang, Laos Yesterday was December first, which for us would usually mean putting up the Christmas tree. It is a much-anticipated tradition, and one the children were feeling a bit disappointed about missing.....until.....they saw, late in the morning, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Just As We Expected

Tuesday, November 25th, 2008
By Rachael Luang Prabang, Laos We rounded a corner and a scene that could have come from any of the South East Asia novels we had read was spread before us. A fast-flowing murky brown river curved through the foreground. A ... [Continue reading this entry]

What are you doing about the kids’ education?

Thursday, September 18th, 2008
This question is *the most frequently asked* one at the moment. I think people have realised that we really truly are taking the kids off for a jaunt around the world in a couple of weeks. And anyone who gives ... [Continue reading this entry]