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living on paper

Sunday, September 13th, 2009

Same beach south of Patra, Greece

If we felt like we were in a fairy tale in Germany….and preparing for medieval battles with the kings and queens of England….and swimming round bowls of pasta in Italy with place names that rolled off the tongue like spiralled spaghetti (our map mentions Comacchio, Gimignano, Montalcino, Sassuolo, Montagnana, Cerignola, Pitigliano, Campobasso, Montepulciano, Polignano, Miglionico, Capaccio and Battipaglia – we stayed at that last one)….now that we are in Greece, we’ve been transported back even further, perhaps right between the pages of a Greek myth. We camp near Poseidon Beach, pass Monolithi Beach, catch sight of Atlantis Aquapark, drive over Kleopatra’s Canal and momentarily wish we might check in to Pegasos Hotel with its blue blue swimming pool overlooking the beach.

A flock of sheep right outside our window on the dirt path between us and the breaking waves was not what we expected to see first thing this morning. But it’s what was there. They surveyed us with as quizzical expressions as we did them! Then they brushed on past the van, bells tinkling….towards the dry grass masquerading as pasture.
The shepherd, carrying a long staff with goose head carved into the curved top, wandered along the beach to chat with the fisherman drawing in their catch. Apart from the wetsuit, boogie board and blue jeans, we could be in a timeframe BC.
Maybe we ARE in a myth.

Or perhaps we’re living a fable.

Have you heard the one about the hare and the tortoise?
Our first day here we saw a tortoise crossing the road (prompting the inevitable-for-us Why Did The Tortoise Cross The Road joke…the answer being “To see if he could do any better than the three hedgehogs, two dogs, one cat and something that looked like a fox.” And, we are pleased to recount, he did supremely better…his little clockwork legs looking like an advertisement for everready batteries scrambled his shell to the safety of the grass verge, managing to avoid both our vehicles.)
Wasn’t it the Greek man Aesop, who is credited with composing the original fable?

If I told you what happened to our dinner tonight you’d think it a tall tale, and maybe in time it will become a cautionary tale of legendary proportions, but for now, we are trying to decide whether to classify the story as comedy or tragedy.

That’s EXACTLY where the sheep tramped through this morning. Moral to the tale is drain spaghetti or fettucine or tagiatelli or gnocchi or anything into a bowl. Then if it all falls out, all is not lost.
Needless to say, we ate late. Not that the non-chefs minded; gave them more time to perfect their trebuchet (they thought they were back in England).

Fairy tale, myth, tall tale or fable? We’re living in a literary reality.

PS The verdict is in. Spaghetti Incident was Comedy. Jgirl14 relates in her journal:

How many ways can you ruin pasta? Undercooking is possible. I have also overcooked it a couple of times, although  have never managed to reduce it to mush; that trophy goes to Jboy13.
Apart from that, I have perfected the art of cooking pasta with limited water and gas. So this evening I cook the spaghetti perfectly…..as I’m draining the water off all is going well until…SPLAT…AllThePasta is in the dirt. For one moment I have that sinking feeling that accompanies doing something stupid, but it’s hard not to laugh at the bird’s nest of spaghetti that lies, steaming in the dust; it had made such a funny noise as it slopped out of the pot. We manage a serious, “Sorry” while Mum snaps a photo.
Then I try again. This time draining the pot over a bowl.

GREECE DISTINCTIVES

Saturday, September 12th, 2009

Beach south of Patra, Greece – waves breaking metres away from us
(no, we didn’t get to Killini again today either – there are just too many nice beaches!!)

 

Even before breakfast, which we ate beside the boats moored in a bay, we had seen signs of stereotypical Greek life. An ancient lady, head covered with black shawl, dressed in black shirt and black skirt, was herding her goats under the gnarly old olive trees. This prompted us to spend the rest of the day looking for things that were decidedly Greek, things different to other countries. Occasionally, we snapped photos, mostly we just tried to remember.

Irregular rock walls. Two types. One is presumably made from the rocks gathered in the fields – mainly terracing the olive groves, and just like the Italian ones used for the same purpose. The other type is uniquely Greek; uneven-shaped yellow-toned rocks are placed with a flat side facing to create quite a smooth surface. Personally, they’re not our faves – not as walls or courtyards or houses!

Domed orthodox churches, solid imposing structures lacking the ornamentation seen elsewhere, but striking in their own way.

Boats and bays, beaches and crystal-clear water.

Goats and sheep. They lend a biblical air to the place!

Mountains. Of course, we’ve seen mountains elsewhere, but Greek ones are different. We went through one gorge that could have swallowed Cheddar Gorge and still had room for more. Steep orange-brown rock towered 600metres above us. We took photos, but they turned out neither big nor impressive.

Produce. Trees drip with unbelievable amounts of gargantuan-proportioned edibles. Figs lay squished on the pavement. Many of the fruits we do not recognise – we have no idea what they are! Then at roadside stalls there are the biggest pumpkins and watermelons and a huge assortment of colourful gourds – we have been buying seven or eight kilo watermelons – the ones by the roadside are easily twice the size – no kidding.
We eat more grapes. Black ones, little green ones. They are all so good.

Shrines filled with lighted candles, bottles of oil and water, food, photographs, special icons, perhaps a child’s favourite toy, a cigarette lighter.

Sweet-shop coloured houses: buttery yellow, mandarin orange, apricot, coral, lavender and a shot of peppermint green or fresh blue. In contrast are the earth-toned mansions, trying to blend their magnificent opulent swimming pools into the hewn rock faces.

Islands. Even little ones have a house or two. Some are joined to the larger landmass by curving footbridges.

Mobile shops. In Cambodia people wander round with a basket of goods to sell on their heads. We watched Chinamen ride their bicycles while the fire burned under a wok on a specially-constructed rear frame. In England people tow their mobile caravans to a layby to sell hotdogs and chips. On the Sorrento coast people standing in oversized lemons dispense fresh juice to passersby. Greece has its equivalent. The first we saw…or rather, heard….was the chicken man. A van came down the hill, preceded by orthodox-sounding chantings over a loudspeaker, making us think we were about to witness a religious procession. It was just an old beat-up van with a load of live chooks. We figured you could probably buy one. By the time we had seen another half dozen of these vehicles, we were certain there were products for sale. The vegetable van, with open sides and produce easily visible is the only one we could tell the contents of. Others, perhaps with a set of scales hanging off the back or sacks of *something* stacked on the tray remain a mystery. But if we could understand Greek, the loudspeaker declarations would undoubtedly fill in the details.

island hopping in motorhomes? IMPOSSIBLE!

Friday, September 11th, 2009
Lefkada Island, Greece “Not sure you’ll make it to any Greek islands, not in campervans,” people have commented with a degree of un-hide-able remorse-for-us in their voices. Never easily deterred, we made investigations. Over one thousand euros to get us to ... [Continue reading this entry]

it’s all greek to me

Thursday, September 10th, 2009
Beach Number 1, Greece

 

Being able to recite the Greek alphabet, a feat learned almost three decades ago and for some reason retained ever since, is of little help when your feet touch Greek ... [Continue reading this entry]

on a dead flat sea

Wednesday, September 9th, 2009
Igoumenitsa, Greece

 

There is a blue so deep it goes beyond indigo, so dark you could be forgiven for thinking it was the night sky. But it is neither late nor celestial. It is ... [Continue reading this entry]

last day in Italy

Tuesday, September 8th, 2009
Brindisi, Italy

plus a last minute mad dash to the post office to buy stamps (and doubleparking both vans to do so) and winding through narrow rutted lanes and trying to ... [Continue reading this entry]

Autumn Arrives

Monday, September 7th, 2009
Brindisi, Italy For the second day in a row the warm wind was howling, stirring up the ocean to waves too fierce for the little kids to venture into. At sunset the night before last, the sky had turned ominously ... [Continue reading this entry]

eleven down, four to go

Sunday, September 6th, 2009
Capitolo, Italy 11 months since we left home 111 days we’ve been on the road in the vans (and an extra week squished into one of them while we waited for the second one to be ready) 131 places we’ve slept in ... [Continue reading this entry]

Rach’s Bikini Shot

Saturday, September 5th, 2009
Capitolo, Italy A friend’s request for what is stated in the title inspired today’s post. Read on only if you dare! Bikinis there are aplenty on Italian beaches. The little girls just wear bikini bottoms, but once they grow up, they ... [Continue reading this entry]

life’s a beach they say

Friday, September 4th, 2009
Capitolo, Italy there’s not much to say get up, have breakfast, do family devotions, complete chores (which doesn’t take long in such a small space, even including the hand washing), head for the beach return for lunch and naps and writing and ... [Continue reading this entry]