Chapter 23: Thailand

I made a small trip up north this past weekend and met up with three girls I befriended during orientation.  Originally from Michigan, England, and California—the girls are now working in Lumphang and Nan (two Northern provinces).  The trip was complete with English dialogue (minus the hand gestures, simplicity, and constant repetition), exploring numerous (number unknown) ancient Wats (temples), Thai Karaoke mixed with interpretive dance and my first encounter with theft since I arrived…mai ben rai (no worries).  Old Sukhothai is the site of Thailand’s first city.  Its ancient ruins, dating back to the 13^th century, are strewn throughout the park and displayed so every backpacker/tourist/traveler passing through can capture the city’s sites in one day via bicycle.  After making our way from the TR Guesthouse (a hostel (bahn pahk) which I highly recommend if ever out this way despite what lonely planet says)  we rented bikes for 30 baht a piece.  At our first temple stop, after locking  up and exploring, we came out just minutes later to find two bikes missing.  Honestly, it was almost expected…we were farangs…but thankfully we had not left a name or deposit, so for the remainder of the day we pegged it down the dusty roads and managed to cart 5 people between 3 bikes…Karma kept us from stealing them back.  It was a minor loss that will forever put that special touch on the story of Sukhothai.  We biked all day, visiting one Wat after the other…each having a different affect.  Out of respect, we knew it was time to call it a day, however, when the last one just seemed like the rest…shines a certain light of reality onto the situation—in the oldest Thai city, observing temples I could never imagine seeing, and thinking, “this 700 year giant Buddha looks just like the others”.  I did have favorites…Wat Suphin Hin (placed atop a hill overlooking the city) and Wat Si Chun (its Buddha’s pinky built larger than my torso) and I appreciated each one for its  spiritual significance, peace, and purity they bring to the country.

That evening we ventured to a local restaurant (whose desserts came highly recommended by lonely planet), but were disappointed to find that it was overpriced, poor serviced, and had small portions.  Maybe fame went to their heads.  With this observation, we decided to cumulate our own travel guide, but call it “overpopulated planet”—contributors are welcome.  We ended the night with Karaoke, (which is always accompanied with a few drinks and belting Madonna’s “Like a Virgin”) and having street market Phad Thai with the local artists at 3 in the morning.

Overall, the trip was a success.  My confidence in bargaining (which I did many times in Thai) and my confidence to travel have accumulated and I am ready to see what has been unseen. 

I have had internet rarely, hence my lack of communication and postings.  I have continued to write, however, so I am posting a few at once.  I have found a peace here in the simplicity of things.  It’s quiet and warm, lush and green.  I have planned a few trips to travel up north this month and have been able to travel and see sights around here—a few temples, the suburbs to visit my friend’s grandmother. My classes are going well.  Some are better then others and it is very frustrating at times, but I think the good balances out the bad.  I have even started teaching the teachers, which helps with communication in the office.  They say my class is funny and they are learning (which is a good sign I thinkJ).  I still miss home, but I think the culture shock has worn off finally, so I am optimistic about things.  Many wishes went on my Krathong (read in next posting) for my family friends at home…know that I am constantly thinking about you.

Loy Loy Krathong, Loy Loy Krathong…my students sang this to me last Wednesday, November 12^th in honor of one of the most popular festivals in Thailand.  It takes place on the full moon day of the 12^th lunar month.  The festival was not complete without kids dressed in elaborate, authentic Thai attire dancing and singing on stage, my matium 2/1 girls (six grade) taking my hand as soon as I arrived to play games, and stuffing my face with sticky rice and ice cream (2 scoops of ice cream in a hotdog bun with sweet corn and beans). I ended the night by lighting a candle, making a wish, and floating (loy) a lotus shaped vessel made of banana leaves (krathong).  Dozens of krathongs floated in the fountain, candles lit, incense burnt, each with its own significance.  Students, teachers, and all the residents Uthaithani were there for the celebration.  I also felt a bit famous as kids continuously came up to me asking for pictures (as I was the only westerner there). November full of cheer, Loy Krathong is here…

The next night our school’s head master set up a “pot luck” dinner for a few teachers and students…the 15 or so that live in campus apartments.  As you can guess, my dish was grilled cheese.  I thought since a.  I cannot cook, and b. I found American cheese at 7-11, that this would be the perfect dish.  No one had heard of it before, but after slight hesitation, it seemed to be a hit because by the end of the night they were gone.  Other dishes included Tom Yom (vegetable and seafood soup), curry, Thai style omelet, fish and vegetables fried, tofu pad thai, Chinese vegetables, and Thai style shiskabobs (they got a kick out of the English word for them) – basically balls of pork and chicken grilled on a stick…it was yet another night of coming together and celebration outside on a perfect evening and a full moon.

 Since I’ve arrived I’ve found many comforts here that have eased the homesickness a bit.  I rescued a turtle from the market that was being sold (most Thai people believe it is bad luck to eat them, but some Thai men think turtle meat brings them sexual good fortune).  I have adopted her and named her Josie (Jr.).  I have potted several plants and hung them outside my room.  The pots are made from coconuts my neighbor gave me to use.  Each week I gather fresh flowers from the garden for my kitchen.  The colors are brilliant and I find a new species each time I collect them.  I also finally made it to “Big C” (a mall with a Kmart type shopping center about 45 minutes from our school).  Although I love Thai food, sweets, and fruit, there is something about finding Kellogs Cornflakes, Nutella, Timtams, and spaghetti that makes my heart skip a beat. 

Everyday there is a new discovery of a difference in cultures.  I found Jiffy Pop at “Big C” (as expensive as it was, it was comforting to have, so I bought them out).  Li, my next door neighbor and frequent dinner guest from China, loves popcorn and always buys the kettle corn from the markets.  She had never heard of Jiffy Pop!  So I took her home, started it up in the microwave, and she pulled up a chair.  For the 3 minutes it took to pop, she sat there watching transfixed on the rising bag rotating in the microwave (I feel like she needed popcorn in front of her…like watching a new movie).  She used the adjectives beautiful and amazing while she watched this simple snack cook, that I am so used to having.  I will now always think of Li when I pop popcorn. 

The Thai students (not all) are some what kikiette (lazy) and kimo (talkative).  They attend class as they wish, skipping frequently (especially the bad ones) and there is no punishment for their poor behavior, nor is there a reward for attending (rather then the obvious “learning” aspect).  Teaching is not easy, especially the classes with younger students who understand very little…to make up for it they just talk over me in confusion.  They other day, however, I witnessed a completely different side to the students—all the students.  Every Friday, they gather in the hall in the afternoon and line up in rows, one by one, to receive teachings from the local monks who visit.  The monks stand at the front, spouting off prayers and directions.  Every student sits completely still, upright, legs crossed, right hand over left in their lap.  As the monk continues, the students change positions simultaneously, bowing their heads, uncrossing their legs, repeating, praying…their transition from loud, chatty teens to respecting, silent Buddhists was astonishing.  It reminded me of Harry Potter, Dumbledor at the front, the kids lined up in rows and in their respective mattium uniforms- white, blue, purple, yellow.

 One of the more interesting characters in line is Jack.   He is a younger student, maybe 12 or 13, and he lives behind me.  I will try and post a picture of his room.  He is an orphan and was brought to the school when he was younger.  The teachers on campus have taken care of him and the school has “adopted” him.  He comes to school as he pleases (which is very rarely because I have not seen him in my class yet), he knocks on the director’s door for money (an allowance the director gives him each time he goes to the city) and he accompanies Li and I to the markets.  He walks behind us, carries our bags and helps us bargain for a good price.  Although Jack knows very little English, he intrigues me.  He always wants me to take his picture and gets excited with a big smile on his face when he sees me and says my name.  He is a wanderer and somewhat of a scavenger—for food, rides, money…hence how he got his name—jack sparrow, the pirate of the school?  Maybe one day I will teach him a few things…until then, I will smile, wave, and enjoy his smile at the candy I give him.

I feel very disconnected and am sad to be out of our country on such an important election year. You will be happy to hear that I did vote before I left, however. I have been without internet for a few days though so I had to find out the results from a phone call (thanks d). I will hopefully be able to catch up on the coverage in the next few days. Even though I am not there, I am very proud to be an American today and always.

Since my last update, I traveled to Nakasawon (Pla’s hometown) with Li and Pla. We visited its first temple, experienced some Thai night life…complete with a Thai rock band and dancers and had authentic Thai style BBQ (Moogata). Moogata is a traditional meal where hundreds gather to cook outside at a small grill in the middle of your table. For 100 baht (about 4 dollars) you can cook and eat all the meat and vegetables you want. Eh my diet starts tomorrow. I also released a turtle into a the river for good luck and a long life…(tradition amoungst nakasawanians)

Some things I have started to call normal…

Having stray dogs wander through the halls and classrooms, hearing hello teacher 500 times a day, picking vegetables from my yard for meals, going for daily runs amoungst the buffalo (the kids join too sometimes), sporadically having internet and running water, having rice for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and getting blank stares in response practically everything I say…

Life here is simple, quiet, and lonely at times…but I am trying to stay positive to experience the different…

After school I walked around campus and ran into Jeng and 4 of his friends.  We took a walk through the woods and pointed things out…I taught them in English and them in Thai.  Buffalo- quai, chicken- guy, this continued until it started pouring down rain.  We quickly ran for cover to an abandoned building.  For an hour we played games…I taught them a few and they taught me.  They even knew one potato, two potato…but in Thai.  It made me realize that where ever you are and whatever language you speak…all kids are te same at heart.  They love to play games and have fun.  And deep inside I think I will always be a kid…

I’ve also met and have grown very fond of my neighbor Audamaupan.  She is the Thai language teacher. She is older and very funny.  I think I will learn a lot from her.  She brings me bananas everyday from the tree in her yard.

 Finally, I’ve begun teaching classes.  The children seem happy to be in class and the ones that usually skip are attending my classes.  We’ll see how long that lasts.  The children are great though and many of them are shy, but eager to learn.  I taught them how to shake hands the other day and they thought it was the funniest thing.  Now all they want to do is shake my hand:)

 many hugs and kisses abroad.  missing many of the comforts from home, but I’m realizing that most of them are not needed.  Thinking about you all and I truely appreciate all the comments.

ps happy halloween! celebrate and have fun for me:)

Today I met Jeng. He is a student who helped me clean up my room and put pictures up.  He is very interested in the United States and probably knows more than many secondary students know in the states.  The reason I write about him is because he sang the national anthem with me.  Ofcourse, he did not know the words perfectly, but he knows the sound of them and sang the entire thing.  We also drew a map together and labeled the states he knew.  He does not know a lot of English, but he tries to talk to me whenever he can.  Singing with him today touched me.  aw…i know dont cry…

Today I receieved my thai name from the other teachers…”Pi Lin” meaning jewlery.  I’ve taken out my nose ring and put on the yellow shirt.  I am official thai English teacher.  They are all welcoming and my picture is posted on the main board outside the school.  They all think I am Soi (beautiful).  So I am learning thai a little at a time.  My classes do not begin until next week…I will observe classes this week.

I arrived to Uthai Thani Saturday night.  The kids were still on holiday so everything was over grown and deserted..imagine a scene from “Lost” and that is exactly how I felt.  Buffalo graze the school grounds and the students take care of 6 pigs.  The dogs also roam freely through the classrooms.  They are welcome and regarded as higher beings. 

If you know me you would not be suprised that I locked myself out of my room the first morning.  In only a tee and shorts…I had to hunt down Li from only the shoes outside the door.  We walked to school to get help and I had to meet the officials in my pajamas…great first impression.  Later in the day I met Yui…a girl that lives below me.  We rode into town on her motor bike, fergie blasted in her headphones, and we visted the markets. After a long time trying to translate…she finally understood that I needed a “towel”.  She is sweet and wants to learn from me.  She knows English music, but wants to learn what it means.

Arriving at school was quite a culture shock compared to the resort and spa in Kanchanaburie I came from just days ago.  I received my first Thai massage at the spa…and hopefully it will not be my last.  During our visit to Kanchanaburie, we rode elephants through small towns and went bamboo rafting down the river kwai.  We also visited two small orphanages, one that I see myself returning to.  The kids were receptive of our lessons and enjoyed playing with us.  There smiles were endless and unexpected considering the abuse and abandonment some of them had incurred.  They remind me of why I am here and remove my doubts.  Although I am frustrated at times, I am starting to become more comfortable.

Pictures all over my wall have also helped me cope.  I look forward to starting classes next week. 

love and peace

k

I’m trying to post as often as possible…but I am finding it difficult with week wifi:(

Last night, I met and spoke with my new Thai directors and coordinators at the school I will be teaching at in Uthai Thani. Through my nidnoy (little) knowledge of Thai and their broken English, we managed to squeeze out a conversation. They are sweet and seem so grateful and happy to be meeting me and working with me.  After seeing a picture I had sent, they throught I was “sexy” and very pretty in person.  Yes, they used the word sexy.  Flattering I suppose haha.  Li came from China about 5 months ago to teach Chinese here.  Her English is probably the best of the three, but still very limited.  We’ve decided I will teach her English, they will teach us Thai, and she will teach me Chinese haha.  She’s my age and will be living next to me on campus.  She says she can cook.  Good enough for me since we all know the extent of my cooking skills.  The school is a boarding school and classes start this Monday.  Each day they hold a school wide assembly (about 800 students) and have prayers.  I was told that before prayers on Monday I will give a speech and introduce myself to the entire school.  Time to man up.  You may also be pleased to know that if you were in my album…you are famous.  I thought my pictures would be a good way to break the ice so they met all of you and think I have a beautiful family and set of friends.  Mr.Karoon also tried to hook me up with his single 21 year old son haha.  But don’t worry Dustin, I declined and showed them your picture.  I don’t think they took it personally.

Monday, we visited the Emerald Buddha Temple and Grand Palace and had lunch on the Chao Praya River, the largest river in Thailand.  The temple was gorgeous…gold, emerald, ruby, but many tourists.  The King moved and now lives up North, so it is used for banquets and Royal gatherings present day.  Still amazing and breath taking.

A few interesting facts I’ve learned since arrival…

The whiter you are, the better.   Buying a mobile phone is like buying a used car…there are hundreds to choose from and everyone is trying to bargain.  And yes, I am rocking to old school Nokia (0820685909)- i can receive for free so start dialing. Traveling 13 hours by bus is just another weekend trip. Everyday of the week has a color i.e. monday- yellow, since the King was born on a mon., tuesday- Pink…and so on.  I will have to sport these each day at school…makes getting dressed in the morning easier.  Popular Lays chips flavors consist of Seaweed and Thai Chilli.  You will get hurt on a motor bike.  You may get hurt on a tuk-tuk.  Lastly, I brought may too much and I think I may fluent in Thai by the time I leave (but dont hold me to that).

much love buddah buddah buddah

common thai saying to farangs: I speak English snake snake fish fish.

translation: I speak a little English.