The final countdown
Sadly left Rishikesh after saying heartfelt good-byes to my coffee-wallah, thali-wallah, fruit-wallah. Spending weeks in one place certainly gave me more of a sense of the people, the pace and the way of life there. It was also much more peaceful than frantically transiting from town to town every 3 days (my original travel attitude). But my departure is fast approaching now.
Haridwar-Varanasi
I took a gruelling 24-hr train ride from Haridwar (near Rishikesh) to Varanasi. Unfortunately I was the only foreigner on a fairly sparsely passengered train (I since learned it is “a very bad train madam, you should not be taking this train”). I was a little shaken to be aggressively and physically hassled by a group of begging eunuch women (little did they know I’ve been toughened to the bitchiness of drag queens and certainly won’t be bullied into giving money – they left irritated but empty handed). Also, almost comically, an astounding number of men seemed to have been allocated the seat directly adjacent to mine. The staring I have had to learn to ignore or it drives me mad.
I stayed in Varanasi only 2 nights and caught up with some Indian friends of the family. At midnight they took me to a viewing tower over the Ganges to take in haunting view and walk along the river bank. The following evening we went to the Main Ghat for some live traditional Indian music (electrifying tablar in full force). Other than that I just meandered around and tried to escape the claustrophobic heat.
Varanasi-Kolkata
The train ride I was really cringing about was this one, as it runs through the notoriously corrupt and violently lawless state of Bihar. Again I was the only foreigner on the train, this time packed to the gills. I was groped by a passing man, and bullied out of my seat by another. In a normal situation I would have handled these things differently, but I was aware of my vulnerability, and did not want to attract more hassle, so I let it slide. Just Breathe. Serenity Now!!!!!!!!!
Kolkata
Kolkata is a city with soul – crumbling old buildings, trams/buses/taxis/running man drawn rickshaws all competing for space on the rickety roads, and pulsing intellectual activity and artistic expression. However, in this Hindu country, it also has a surprising number of evangelical Indian Christians and Non-Veges. What’s happening to the world?
Life on the streets is unhidden from the western gaze here. In the middle of a business area, hundreds of street families are carrying out their lives on the pavement as streams of people step over them, around their washing, over their cooking fire, past their children lying idley on a tarp covered sleeping mat. I am made aware of the simple survival that occupiues these peoples lives, an awareness that leaves me haunted by my privilege (thanks michael for that word – very apt).
I am staying in the backpacker area which is crammed with tiny coffee/juice bars, cafes, eateries, market stalls – and it is walking distance to the river and parks. There is an energy of debate and discussion which permeates these spaces. Yesterday I riled up an Indian law professor over coffee by asking him his thoughts on the move to repeal India’s law that criminalises homosexuality – not surprisingly he was strongly against the repeal – so a healthy debate ensued that ended up involving many of the cafe-goers.
Now I wait an interminable amount of time at the airport for my flight to Bangkok – having come about 6 hours earlier than necessary, so that I didn’t have to brave the streets after dark.
I am ready to say good-bye to India. I am leaving her having gained much, I probably won’t know how much until I hit the ground in another country. I look forward to a return journey – next time I’ll drag someone else along for the ride, spend more time in less places, and avoid the cities as much as possible.
Tags: India
Jyai