Hows the serenity
Day 18: Fast road to the Italian border until we hit the Alps, then slowed to a wind and weave as we glee-ed and gasp-ed at the spectacular snow kissed mountains. Arrived at a camp site just south of CHAMONIX. The reception was closed and the young girl and older gentleman gardening were very unforthcoming. I enquired in French about a campsite for the night. She told me to choose any place, then come back to checkin. We chose a spot about 50m away from where they were gardening and set up camp. Soon we had coffee brewing and I was serving up boysonberry pie with vanilla cream for afternoon tea. Each campsite seemed to be demarcated by a wooden chair which we used for a coffee table. I tried again to check-in but the gardener told me to come back later, maybe after 5.30, which I then had to assume was when the owners returned. The Madame and Meisseur of the house did indeed return. He motioning to us in an annozed sweep of the arm as he drove past. She stepping out and coming toward me with the curtest of Bonjours in response to mine. She then proceed to rant so quickly in French that all I could catch was CANT USE CHAIRS. So I quickly moved our coffee cups thinking, ok problem solved. My lack of comprehension seemed to exasperate her further, so she switched into English yelling at me YOU CANT CAMP WHERE THERE ARE CHAIRS, THESE PLACES ARE RESERVED!!! I was taken aback but manage to respond simply that we were told to camp anywhere we chose, but she had already turned and walked away and ignored me. Infuriated with this treatment, considering we had tried multiple times to checkin and had asked where to camp, we moved the tent and jumped in the car to find a more amicable place. We hit town and settled on a cheap and cheerful backpackers before Kelly stealthily drove back to throw our gear in the car and drive off without paying for the insult. We had the most fabulous meal so far at La Petite Kitchen – a window view of the mountain, warm to our boots, delightful service in French to me, in English to Kelly. I had St Jacques scallops with veloute – after years of being vegetarian these are worth the wait. WOW.
Day 19: The nex day we caught the little train up to the Glacier and ventured into the blue ice cave, uplit and with soundtracked ethereal music, wowed by the airbubbles frozen in time, it looked entirely surreal until you got a wet hand. AMAZING. Boulangerie lunch in the central square, then off up the moutain by cable car for a 4000m panoramic view of the alps and valleys from above the clouds. STUNNING. But only for a few minutes before the altitude sickness reared up and sent us both at a lethargic and dizzy pace back to a more comfortable 2000m view for hot chocolate. Picnic dinner in the park, ambling walk, watching the rock climbers do their thing.
Day 20:
Crossed the border to Geneva for a brief look around, then on to LAUSANNE for a picnic on the Lake. A little further into the heart of the JUNGFRAU region. We are camping in a valley surrounded on all sides by sky high cliff faces, waterfalls and snow heavy mountains. We plan to stay for the few days over easter and just chill out. Maybe do a hike or two, eat fondue, go to a chocolate tasting, see waterfalls, read a book and not do much else. Ah, the serenity.
Day 21:
This may have been one of the best days so far. No GPS. No guidebook. No churches. No sites. No plan. No itinerary. Home cooked breakfast as the sun slowly graced us, climbing along the cliff face to the valley. Throwing off thermals, scarves, jackets it became immediate Tshirt weather. We talked over 2 pots of coffee, headed into town, found our way over footbridges that overlay chrystal blue water streams. Watched paraglders. Ate artisanal icecream. Found a simple bakery for lunch. Fell in and out of shops. Picnic blanket afternoon and siesta in the sun. Preparing tonights meal with market fresh food and a bottle of Australian shiraz. Nothing to do but just be here in this moment. Birds calling, waters falling, cow bells rocking side to side. This is actually what travelling is all about.
Jyai