On her own two bare feet

Day 22:

Leisurely stroll around the lakes of INTERLAKEN area, punctuated by stops for a picnic with the ducks, coffees on reclining lounges, and a cosy loveseat at the edge of the lake – the perfect vantage point from which to watch mad dogs and Englishman enjoy a brisk swim. Sunburnt and heat affected we stumbled into our local for a beer and cider over a few rounds of cards on the outdoor terrace overlooking the mountains.

Day 23:

Quick trip up to the capital BERN, we wandered through the extensive markets picking up apple strudels and the like fresh from the bakers oven. On through the underground shops to end with a coffee in the central square. On across the border into Germany, we stopped at FREIBERG for a pint of local beer made onsite (the first beer I have ever enjoyed), and a mansize plate of hearty, simple, overcooked stodge. We explored the cobbled streets, alley ways and canals, animated by musicians and street performers at every turn. Back in the car to find a place to camp in the BLACK FOREST just a little further north, but as the rain set in we settled on a family run, rustic inn south of FREUDENSTADT. We drank regional wine, which ironically was the most undrinkable liquid I had ever been served, watered down as it was with half flat mineral water. I guess thats why you never hear about German wines.

Day 24: Easter sunday celebrated with lindt chocolates in bed. Short drive to TRIBERG for a nature walk to “Germanys largest waterfall” which consisted of a stream 165m long, punctuated by drops of about 1 metre. Everyone else was madly taking photos. We were still looking for the waterfall. But the walk was peaceful and we found a spot to squirrel watch as they scampered and buried their nutty treasures. Black forest cake in town, then a little shopping for birkenstock shoes and cuckoo clocks. On to BADEN BADEN a spa town filled with nouveau riche tourists where camp sites were unheard of. We drove around looking for a hotel but it was Easter Sunday and most places were closed or full. I drove into one place with a perfect sign on one side, smashed on the other, and as I proceeded down the long drive the place looked dodgy and a little intimidating.  In a tipsy haze brought on by a lunchtime beer with no lunch, I swiftly reversed into a 3 point turn to get the hell out, and smashed the tail light into a tree. Finally found a guesthouse close to town and set off on a lovely promenade along a stream through the botanic gardens. The gardens go for kilometres, with a path past grand mansions, manicured lawns and hedge mazes, spectacular statues and beautiful fountains. We drank more beer and had german pub grub (more cheese-bread-potato for the vegetarian).

Day 25:

Spa heaven!!! The Freiderich-something 19th century thermal baths with 17 rooms, each individually decorated with dome ceilings, mosaics, paintings, sculptures, stainglass windows, and ranging from sauna to steam rooms, and cool to warm to hot baths.  I felt a little like royalty being bathed in body milk and brushed and scrubbed from head to toe. Then after a few hours of soaking being swaddled like a baby in warm sheets and a blanket for a seista in the sleeping room. BLISS. We slowly made our way on to NUREMBERG in Bavaria, and a found a busy market where we loaded up on the regional specialities: sausages, gingerbread and herbacious beer (yummy). Being Easter Monday, still very little was open, so we settled on an Indian Feast across from our hotel – without a doubt the best meal in Germany so far – enough said.

Day 18: Fast road to the Italian border until we hit the Alps, then slowed to a wind and weave as we glee-ed and gasp-ed at the spectacular snow kissed mountains. Arrived at a camp site just south of CHAMONIX. The reception was closed and the young girl and older gentleman gardening were very unforthcoming. I enquired in French about a campsite for the night. She told me to choose any place, then come back to checkin. We chose a spot about 50m away from where they were gardening and set up camp. Soon we had coffee brewing and I was serving up boysonberry pie with vanilla cream for afternoon tea. Each campsite seemed to be demarcated by a wooden chair which we used for a coffee table. I tried again to check-in but the gardener told me to come back later, maybe after 5.30, which I then had to assume was when the owners returned. The Madame and Meisseur of the house did indeed return. He motioning to us in an annozed sweep of the arm as he drove past. She stepping out and coming toward me with the curtest of Bonjours in response to mine. She then proceed to rant so quickly in French that all I could catch was CANT USE CHAIRS. So I quickly moved our coffee cups thinking, ok problem solved. My lack of comprehension seemed to exasperate her further, so she switched into English yelling at me YOU CANT CAMP WHERE THERE ARE CHAIRS, THESE PLACES ARE RESERVED!!! I was taken aback but manage to respond simply that we were told to camp anywhere we chose, but she had already turned and walked away and ignored me. Infuriated with this treatment, considering we had tried multiple times to checkin and had asked where to camp, we moved the tent and jumped in the car to find a more amicable place. We hit town and settled on a cheap and cheerful backpackers before Kelly stealthily drove back to throw our gear in the car and drive off without paying for the insult. We had the most fabulous meal so far at La Petite Kitchen – a window view of the mountain, warm to our boots, delightful service in French to me, in English to Kelly. I had St Jacques scallops with veloute – after years of being vegetarian these are worth the wait. WOW.

Day 19: The nex day we caught the little train up to the Glacier and ventured into the blue ice cave, uplit and with soundtracked ethereal music, wowed by the airbubbles frozen in time, it looked entirely surreal until you got a wet hand. AMAZING.  Boulangerie lunch in the central square, then off up the moutain by cable car for a 4000m panoramic view of the alps and valleys from above the clouds. STUNNING. But only for a few minutes before the altitude sickness reared up and sent us both at a lethargic and dizzy pace back to a more comfortable 2000m view for hot chocolate. Picnic dinner in the park, ambling walk, watching the rock climbers do their thing.

Day 20:

Crossed the border to Geneva for a brief look around, then on to LAUSANNE for a picnic on the Lake. A little further into the heart of the JUNGFRAU region. We are camping in a valley surrounded on all sides by sky high cliff faces, waterfalls and snow heavy mountains. We plan to stay for the few days over easter and just chill out. Maybe do a hike or two, eat fondue, go to a chocolate tasting, see waterfalls, read a book and not do much else. Ah, the serenity.

Day 21:

This may have been one of the best days so far. No GPS. No guidebook. No churches. No sites. No plan. No itinerary. Home cooked breakfast as the sun slowly graced us, climbing along the cliff face to the valley. Throwing off thermals, scarves, jackets it became immediate Tshirt weather. We talked over 2 pots of coffee, headed into town, found our way over footbridges that overlay chrystal blue water streams. Watched paraglders. Ate artisanal icecream. Found a simple bakery for lunch. Fell in and out of shops. Picnic blanket afternoon and siesta in the sun. Preparing tonights meal with market fresh food and a bottle of Australian shiraz. Nothing to do but just be here in this moment. Birds calling, waters falling, cow bells rocking side to side. This is actually what travelling is all about.

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