No Madam, there is no sign
i arrived at Kolkata airport in the middle of the night (of course) to a shirty immigration officer who, not satisfied with my listing of 3 well-known centres, demanded details of my complete two-month itinerary. At the baggage carousel, i noticed that airport services were suspiciously lacking and most worryingly i could not see any place to sleep – only customs and then The Exit into Kolkata’s night streets (which i have been trained to fear). So i sat on my trolley and waited for guidance. i remembered one solo girl on my flight, so i waited for her, and approached her to share a taxi. Synchroniously, she was on her way to Sikkim (in the Himalayas) and invited me to travel with her, free accommodation to boot because her Sikkimise boyfriends’ cousin owns a hotel there. So we slept apalling on some couches until sunrise, then feasted until midday, then were delirious all the way to Bagdora where we landed, and i gasped and giggled all the way through the 4 hour jeep ride to Gangtok (the capital).
The town of Gangtok is sewn into the belly of a mountain, so everything is a climb and there is no real centre. There is so much colour here it is mesmerising – the temples, houses, people – all joyously decorated. i got some great winter gear at the markets, an indian salwar kameez made to size, and saw some beautiful sites – but Gangtok on the whole is touristy and cramped, so after 2 days i was moving again.
i jumped a jeep to the West to a town called Pelling – it was a nauseating ride through magnificent scenery: soaring mountains, mazes of terraced agriculture, colourful prayer flags, zen monkeys, and the constant companionof the Tashi river plummeting below. i stayed in a rustic guesthouse that night and froze to death – it truly is winter here.
The following morning i began a 53km, 4 day trek, in a loop through 4 mountain towns. The guide book does not lie. The trail really is “steep and difficult to follow” but enticingly shorter than walking the road route. Despite it being a “very popular trek” in Sikkim, there is not one sign directing one to the trail or helping one to stay on the trail. So on more than one occassion i was forced to back track up the hill and try another path. The old woman in me started composing a very terse letter to the Sikkim tourism department about the lack of signage and the danger to personal safety etc – but then i got over it and just enjoyed the views. The trail runs right through people’s homes and farms (literally you walk past someone’s goats, or under their kitchen window) and the lack of signage gives some reason to communicate with the locals with the two words i know – namaste (hello) and name (place i’m going) – then sign language for which bloody way! The track leads down the mountain and across and a spectacular suspension bridge, to the other side giving beautiful views across the valley.
i arrived at Kacheoparli Lake late in the afternoon and collapsed, exhausted and starving, in what i was led to believe was a dorm in a place that had been recommended (Pema’s Tea Shop). The owners were not home so i took it upon myself to claim a bed and passed out. When the family did arrive home a haggard old woman forced the door open, breaking the lock, and caught me in
the filthy western act of reading (i’m sure she suspected joint-rolling or fornication to be going on). After asking every person in the vague vicinity of the house whether it was okay to stay here, i was slightly reassured that it was okay, but still felt like Goldilocks and stayed in my room until morning.
Just after sunrise i went to the sacred lake (within the grounds of a tibetan monestary). it is truly majestic, mirror clear water, encircled by forested mountains, audible wildlife, and stillness.
After this inspiration, today i began my second day trek to Yuksam. Another difficult trail to follow, but facilitated by the local who recommended that whenever i meet a fork in the road i “take the right” which worked a treat! it was a magic walk through forest, across the river, past a mammoth waterfall – and then it became a hellish mission up the other mountain to reach this town perched on top. But i’ve arrived. And since i’m trekking. And i’m in the Himalayas. Then i must be solo trekking in the Himalayas – how’s that!
i am impressed by this place already and have met some interesting french
bohemians travellers, so i might stay here a few days, i promised my legs i would.
Tags: India
Jyai
February 20th, 2005 at 11:55 am
testings