BootsnAll Travel Network



Sihanoukville: Little Britain

February 11th, 2006

From Siem Reap, in the north of Cambodia, Bec and I wanted to travel south, almost as far south as we could go in fact, to the coastal town of Sihanoukville. But with the deplorable state of Cambodia’s roads, this trip would take two days, and require a stopover in Phnom Penh.

We made it to the capital with few problems, and, after learning that the OK Guesthouse was full, found a rather dodgy looking place in the backpacker region on the shore of Boeung Kak Lake. And by on the shore, I mean hanging out over the lake by a good 50 feet. It’s like a race between guesthouses in the area to see who can be the first to have their patio-over-the-water actually reach the other side of the lake. And by backpacker region, I mean the district where you can’t walk 30 feet without being offered some skunk. Whatever the hell that is (I’m guessing marijuana, but in these SEAsian countries, you just never know).

Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , ,

Siem Reap: The Temples of Angkor

February 7th, 2006

We left Phnom Penh on Monday January 30th, and took an easily tolerable 5 hour bus north to Siem Reap. What was not quite so tolerable were the tuk-tuk drivers attacking us as we got off the bus. We collected our bags from underneath the dirty vehicle, and they swarmed on us, like piranha ferociously attacking stranded bait. 8 to 10 young guys surrounded us in a tight circle as we tried to put our packs on, each of them screaming in our ears, yelling louder and louder so to to be heard over the others. They waved signs in our faces, “tuk-tuk to any guesthouse, 1000 riel”. One of them grabbed my arm and spun me round, “Are you from the OK Guesthouse in Phnom Penh?”

I grabbed his hand, removed it from my arm, and replied “No.” Not even the old women of Croatia had been this aggressive.

Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , ,

Phnom Penh: The Streets

February 7th, 2006

Phnom Penh is a crazy city.

I came to this conclusion after Bec and I began walking randomly through the streets on our first morning there, and after turning down a side street found ourselves in the midst of a chaotic street market. The entire street was swamped with people, animals, and food, all protected from the harsh sun by dirty, barely-held-together umbrellas set up along the length of the road. Walking in a straight line through this hive of activity was impossible – simply walking through at all was a challenge; just when you thought you’d got yourself some space to stop and take it all in, a moped would toot at you to get out of the way, and somehow snake past without taking out all your toes. And the smells; whoa, the smells. We went from delightfully sucking in the fresh smell of jasmine, to battling not to dry-wretch as the stench of raw meat and rubbish lying out in the sun intruded on our senses.

Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , ,

Photos: From Laos to Cambodia

February 4th, 2006

These are a couple of pics taken during our epic journey from Don Det to Phnom Penh. We didn’t take as many as we’d have liked, but when your arms are pinned to your sides, you’ve got some weedy little bastard resting his sleeping head on your shoulder, your arse is numb, your mouth and hair and beard are full of dust, playing photographer isn’t the first thing that comes to mind.

Goin’ Grey? We stopped our epic journey to cross the Mekong river on a barge. And no, I am not going prematurely grey in the facial hair area, that is dust in my beard. And that was only after 1 hour of driving, there was another 8 hours to go .view image

Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , ,

Photos: Laos, Last Go

February 4th, 2006

Roight then, here’s a few pics to keep you interested, starting in Vientiane, and working our way down south to Champasak, and onto Don Det.

Go on, eat that. A pic I took during our walk through the huge market where we bought all our food for the cooking class we took. Thankfully, pig wasn’t on the menu.view image

The Vertical Runway. What? As if you wouldn’t build some massive concrete monument with materials donated by the US meant for an airport. Who needs airports anyway? view image

The Concrete Monster. This is the sign that greets visitors when they reach the Vertical Runway. Something lost in the translation, methinks. view image

Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , , , ,

Cambodia: Devil at your Heels

February 2nd, 2006

At 8am on January 27th, Bec and I were in another wooden long-boat heading back across the Mekong river with our guesthouse owner, Mr. Noi, doing the navigating. It was a cold morning, droplets of cool water splashing up on our faces from the boat sitting so low in the water. With us in the boat were an English couple who were apparently hitching a ride with us to visit a big waterfall not far away.

Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: ,

Don Det: Wayside/Back in Time

February 1st, 2006

Si Phan Don; The Four Thousand Islands. It is an area at the very southern tip of Laos where the Mekong river stretches to immense proportions, resulting in innumerable islands and sand bars; the number of which varies depending on the water level (it is said the river can be as wide as 14km during the wet season).

Choosing one of these islands was easy. Don Det was described as something along the lines of “no electricity, no tv’s, no worries”, a place where bungalows reached out over the water, with hammocks swinging on their verandahs.

Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , ,

Champasak: The Temple of the Frog

February 1st, 2006

Our main reason for stopping in Champasak was to visit some nearby temple ruins, Wat Phu Champasak, which dated from the Angkor period; meaning it was built sometime between 900 and 1300AD. Yeah, back when Australia was still at least 500 years from being discovered by Europeans.

Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , ,

Champasak: Give me a V (for visa)

January 29th, 2006

The bus stopped, it was 5.30am and still pitch black outside.

“Is this Pakse?” I asked Bec, as though she should know. “Not sure. I’ll go outside and see what’s going on,” she replied drowsily, while I tried hard to keep my eyelids from falling. A few minutes later, she called out to me, now wide awake, “This is our stop, you have to get off!”

I stumbled off, grabbed my bag out of the pile of backpacks forming on the dirty ground next to the bus, and we headed for the nearest tuk-tuk. For we weren’t staying in Pakse, our plan was to head 40km further south to the little town of Champasak, where a millenia-old ruin, like a mini Angkor Wat, sat at the foot of the nearby hills.

Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , ,

Pakse: Laos Karaoke Disco…….On Wheels

January 28th, 2006

From Vientiane, Bec and I were headed to the very south of Laos, a journey that would take somewhere close to 10 or 11 hours. Our hope was to take a bus during the day; all throughout this trip we’d been trying to avoid night buses where possible, and given that we were skipping over the middle part of the country, to at least be able to see the landscape would have been nice.

But, unfortunately, the only bus going during the day was a local bus (read: rundown, crappy school bus type) that took 14 hours, as opposed to the reasonably comfortable VIP overnight bus, which would take 9 hours to reach the southern town of Pakse. We booked tickets for the overnight bus, scheduled to leave at 8.30pm, and were told we’d be picked up at 7pm from our guesthouse. That’s 7pm Laos time though, folks, which meant we were eventually picked up at 7.45pm by a giant tuk-tuk, basically the back of a truck converted into a tuk-tuk with two long bench seats running along each side. As we were driven to the bus terminal, we stopped to pick up more travellers, each of them saying they’d been waiting since 7 or 7.30pm.

Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , ,