WELCOME TO SARAJEVO
Wow, wow, wow….this is an amazing little city. The mix of cultures is mesmerizing and nothing like I’ve ever experienced in my limited life experience. Just seeing the big bold white letters at the airport was a bit chilling, but not nearly as striking as the first mile in the taxi as we passed over the first hill and could see the white glitter of cemeteries on nearly every hillside. 103,000 people died in the 1990´s war and you can feel the presence of recent tragedy in the hills, scarred buildings, and dramatic mountains that surround the city on the river Miljacka
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However, my other first sense was that of optimism, from the taxi driver, to the tourist office, to the people on the streets. You can feel this is a city that is appreciating the simple things, such as the ubiquitous café culture and the ability to drive, walk , or stroll at will through the somewhat chaotic, but livable streets of the city. You can kind of sense their trepidations towards the positive aspects of their city coming to light again after so much pain. They all seem like they are a bit amazed that people what to come to their city, see the sights, and spend money. But they are coming around I suspect in 10 years, peace be willing, that this city “will be the next Prague” (last time I will use that phrase I promise).
The contrasts are striking, as Muslim women walk down the main shopping drag in very fashionable head scarves while carrying trendy hand bags. Muslim teenagers are running to the Mosque and throwing their shoes on the ground as they are obviously late for the evening prayer (we heard one call for evening prayer while sitting at an outdoor café sampling the local white wine and beer (Sarajevsko Pivo). Admittedly, this is our first experience to large-scale Muslim culture, so it is very interesting and unique indeed. Tomorrow, we plan on touring the main Mosque (which is one of dozens and dozens in the city). Today we walked up the big hills behind where we are staying and say many slices of local life, including gardens, fancy remodels, bombed out shells of buildings, and many people just trying to move their lives forward again. There are not many tourists here, so people are checking out us more than we are checking them out, especially once you leave the old city. (and where most tourists go)
We’ve only been here a day and half , but already the city has made a lasting impression on me. You just can´t help but be amazed at the recency of the tragedy and the fact that it could all breakdown again in a few short weeks or months. But I don’t think it will. This place is on its way up and renovation and rebirth are still the order of the day. What we can’t believe is that we are nearly the only tourists in town, except a few busloads of seniors getting a lecture at a ca. 1520 mosque in the old Turkish quarter that forms the hub of the history, tourism, and social scene of Sarajevo. It’s a real city in the midst of dramatic social changes and restoration of faith, and you can watch it unfold without 10,000 tourists marching along with you. Cheryl and I are both sure shat when we return to Sarajevo in the future that it will be vastly different, and it will be discovered by the hordes (and we will return as we drank from the famous fountain that myth states portends a return).
Today, in addition to walking about 10 miles, we toured a powerful exhibit at the history museum (again, is this place open?) that shows amazing photographs and objects from the 4 year siege of the early 90’s. Business people trying to cross the street and ducking sniper fire, and the thousands of children who were killed while doing such basic kid things such as sledding on the new snow. I never knew the whole story of the war, and this visit has been worth it for this new understanding alone.
These Sarajevo Roses mark the particular spots in the downtown that were hit by shells and mortars that killed people. They are everywhere and despite a huge 10 year effort to rebuild, there are still sniper holes and mortar pock marks everywhere we go.
It’s no wonder that the drivers are nuts and pedestrians brush with death on a routine basis on the rather chaotic streets, although there are still not a lot of cars. Cars rule and pedestrians dash and cower, but it’s still better than watching your city die, while there is nothing you can do about it and the outside world does not seem to give a damn.
Peace BiH
Tags: Bosnia and Hercegovina, Eastern Europe, Travel, Tag Index
rich.coffin