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The Sahara

Sunday, February 4th, 2007

We’ve just returned to civilisation (if Erfoud deservers such a lofty title) after a few days in the Sahara. We took a two-night camel trip to a place called Erg Chebby, which is the main part of the Moroccan Sahara. It was just the two of us with our guide Mubarak, and our only complaint was that Mubarak didn’t speak any languages we speak – not even French (aside from a few words), which most Moroccans speak as a second language.

The first afternoon was overcast and dull but fortunately yesterday was a beautiful day with not a cloud in the sky, and it was wonderful to amble through the sand dunes atop Cliff (as I named my camel), pondering life without a care in the world (I presume Cliff did this as well). Last time I only went to the fringes of Erg Chebby without going ‘in’, so it was nice to get among the dunes rather than just looking at them from the edge. I was quite surprised to see the odd Berber family living in the dunes, which must be a very tough life. We spent the first night in a tent in the dunes, and the second night with a Berber family just outside the dunes. With the language barrier, it was hard to find out a lot about why they live there and how they get by, but it was still a great experience nevertheless.

In an hour or so, we’re taking a bus towards Todra Gorge, which is supposed to be one of the most beautiful places in Morocco. When Wendy was here five years ago, she took a tour to the desert from Marrakesh that was supposed to include three hours in the gorge. But others in her group spent too long haggling for carpets and they ended up with only 20 minutes at the gorge. I’m making it up to her by allowing her to stay two or three days this time – hopefully the weather will stay nice and we can do some hiking in and around the gorge…

Pictures, as always, are here, including some shots of the Sahara.

Our morning at Volubilis

Tuesday, January 30th, 2007

We went to see the Roman ruins at Volubilis about a week ago, but I haven’t had a chance to write about it until now (and the story is much better with photos). The day before we went was an awful day in Meknes. It was bitterly cold and it rained for most of the afternoon and evening, which was pretty depressing. The forecast for the next day was ‘partly sunny’, which at least gave me some hope.

We got to the Volubilis, which is the most famous set of Roman ruins in Morocco but not a particularly well known city empire-wide, just after it opened, at 8:15am. Half an hour earlier it had been quite clear in all directions but by this time, though the sun was still shining, there were insanely dark storm clouds to the west. This created an incredible light for the next 15 minutes, with the ruins bathed in sunshine with the backdrop very, very dark, accounting for some of the best photos of the trip. Later all the clouds disappeared and we had blue skies, so in some cases I have two photos of the same thing with completely different backgrounds (like here and here). For the first hour in these changing conditions, we were the only people at the site.

Anyway, the ruins themselves were really quite impressive. There are many quality mosaics in situ, and a few imposing structures including a triumphal arch built during the reign of the emperor Caracalla in AD 217. The arched basilica, with several columns including one topped by the (apparently) obligatory stork’s nest, was also quite impressive. It’s rare that you get to see Roman mosaics and quality ruins at the same place – usually it’s one or the other. So while Volubilis was no Ba’albeck or Palmyra, it was about as good as Ephesus, if not better.

Return to Fes

Monday, January 29th, 2007

My best and most lasting memories from my brief trip to Morocco in 2001 were of Fes, one of the greatest and largest living medieval cities in the world. I was fascinated but also completely overwhelmed by the old ... [Continue reading this entry]

Meanwhile, here in Morocco…

Tuesday, January 23rd, 2007

We’ve been in Morocco for four days now, and since I’ve just found what will undoubtedly turn out to be the fastest computer in Africa, it’s about time I caught up with my blog (two new posts below!) and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Pre-Africa thoughts and ideas

Tuesday, January 23rd, 2007

We’re done with the Gulf now, so Africa it is. All things going well, we plan to spend four months in Africa, visiting three countries in North Africa (Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia) and four in West Africa ... [Continue reading this entry]

Three days in Dubai

Tuesday, January 23rd, 2007

"I guess this city has its moments," Wendy said when describing Dubai, and I suppose that sums it up pretty well.

It was quite a bit different from what I had expected. I thought it would be all glitz ... [Continue reading this entry]

Bee-hive tombs and a place called Jebel Shams

Tuesday, January 16th, 2007

We're back in Muscat again tonight after spending the last couple of days exploring Nizwa and the surrounding areas. Today we rented a car and saw quite a few things including two forts, the ruins of a village, the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Oman – arrival and impressions

Thursday, January 11th, 2007

We've been in the western part of Oman for two days now after arriving yesterday morning from Yemen. Border formalities were slow but uncomplicated, and it was certainly the first time I've crossed a border between 1am and 3am!

[Continue reading this entry]

Last day in Yemen…

Tuesday, January 9th, 2007

...though I shouldn't speak too soon. We bought tickets for a bus that leaves in one hour, at 4pm, and is supposed to arrive in Salalah, Oman, at about 8am tomorrow morning.

We've spent the past couple of days ... [Continue reading this entry]

Zabid and some markets

Saturday, January 6th, 2007

Another day, the same internet cafe in Sana’a…

We spent the past few days on another excursion, this time to the red sea coast. Our main reason for going was to visit Zabid, a world heritage listed site that, ... [Continue reading this entry]