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The Boxing Day Test*

Friday, December 26th, 2008

*Bangladesh version

While it wasn’t quite the Melbourne Cricket Ground the day after Christmas, it was still a Boxing Day Test match all the same. This morning I dragged Wendy kicking and screaming to the first day of the first cricket Test between Bangladesh and Sri Lanka in Dhaka, half-fulfilling one of my remaining travel ‘goals’ of attending an international cricket match on the subcontinent. (I say only half-fulfilling because what I really want to see is India v Pakistan, in either country, and because Bangladesh are a pretty ordinary cricket team.)

Boxing Day Test 

Needless to say, there was the odd difference between watching international cricket at the Shere Bangla National Stadium and the cricket venue I’m more accustomed to attending, the Sydney Cricket Ground. Namely, that in Australia:

– Homeless people don’t live on the outer concourse of the stadium.
– There aren’t any furniture shops within the stadium. 
– You don’t get made to wait outside the gate after the scheduled start time because “we are not ready”.
– Temporary grandstands and ticket box office barricades are not constructed with bamboo.

As for the actual cricket, Bangladesh did pretty well and took the honours on the first day against what should be a far superior team, so it was nice to see them do well. Wendy’s impressions of her first live cricket match were not so positive, though; she slept through much of the second session and then declared sometime around tea time that “the whole thing is pretty silly.”

So, after more than a week in Dhaka, including a lovely Christmas Day breakfast yesterday morning with Julie, we are moving on tomorrow night by catching the ‘Rocket’ boat south to Kulna before heading back to India in five or six days.

The Bathroom-Tiled Taj Mahal

Monday, December 22nd, 2008

You may have read in the news recently that a wealthy Bangladeshi film-maker has just finished constructing a ‘replica’ of the Taj Mahal. (Actually, it’s not even finished yet, but it has just opened to the public.) 

We went to check it out today near Sonargaon, about 30 kilometres from Dhaka, and even met the builder himself, Ahsanullah Moni, while we were there. And the verdict? Let me just say that Shah Jahan, the Mughal emperor who ordered the building of the original Taj and who was said to have cut off the hands of the architects and masons upon its completion so they could never again build a monument so beautiful, can rest easy in his grave; the Bangladesh Taj is a kitchy and cheap knock-off of the fabulous original, about five times smaller and with towers that are too fat.

But I’ll let you judge for yourself.

The actual Taj Mahal – Agra, India

  Taj Mahal

The Bangladesh Taj Mahal – near Sonargaon, Bangladesh

    Bangladesh Taj Mahal 

Our double-life in Dhaka

Monday, December 22nd, 2008

Market in Old DhakaIt has been a bit of a strange existence for us in the Bangladeshi capital these past few days. We spend our days exploring the old city and acting much as ... [Continue reading this entry]

Catching Up

Friday, December 19th, 2008

We've spent the last week or so in Calcutta and in the state of Orissa further south, and to catch up I'll post some quick impressions.

Calcutta is more pleasant than I remember from our 2003 ... [Continue reading this entry]

Moments like this…

Tuesday, December 9th, 2008

Sealdah train station, Calcutta, 6:20am this morning: Forty-eight hours after waking up in a 23-house village with no roads in Sikkim, we are dumped in the middle of the second largest city in India, notorious for its slums and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Sikkim: Barely India

Monday, December 8th, 2008

We’ve spent the past few days in the Himalayan state of Sikkim, which was cold and mostly overcast, but worthwhile all the same. A respite from the very Indian-ness of India was much appreciated, as Sikkim feels like ... [Continue reading this entry]

Hurry Burry Spoils the Curry

Tuesday, December 2nd, 2008

So said a roadside sign on the way up to Darjeeling in West Bengal. I think it means 'Slow Down', but it struck me as a particularly unusual and indirect way of advising drivers.

But I'm getting ahead of ... [Continue reading this entry]