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Leaving Southeast Asia

Monday, January 28th, 2008

It’s been a while since I wrote anything in this space, and it’s been a bit of a whirlwind tour for us in that time.

We flew to Bangkok about 2.5 weeks ago and spent the next 10 days or so in Thailand. We visited a floating market an hour-and-a-half away from Bangkok, which was actually better than we expected, as we stayed the previous night in Nakhon Pathom and woke at dawn to walk to the market area along the town’s canals. There were plenty of produce boats about, making for a picturesque scene and plenty of good photos, and the tourist trade hadn’t really started yet. By nine o’clock, the buses started to arrive from Bangkok and our day was over…

We spent the next few days in Kanchanaburi, which was unfortunately a bit of a disappointment. There’s a ‘Tiger Temple’ nearby where monks live with rescued tigers – it featured on National Geographic or another similar TV channel two or three years ago. But there’s not really a temple there anymore (or at least you’re not shown where it is), and the odd monk or two you see are just there for show – it’s basically a tiger zoo run by international volunteers, and nothing like how it was portrayed in the video clip and how it’s continuing to be portrayed by the current management and Bangkok/Kanchanaburi tour companies.

Our second disappointment was that we took a bus for more than an hour to walk along one of the most interesting stretches of the infamous WWII Death Railway from Thailand to Burma, built by Allied POWs and local slave labour at the hands of the Japanese. But the 4km route was closed for a three-day period for maintenance, so the trip out there was wasted. We still took the train part of the way on the Death Railway line back to Kanchanaburi, but this was a tourist trap and a disappointment, and the bridge on the river Kwai is not nearly as impressive in real life as the one depicted in the 1957 movie.

With Wendy’s birthday approaching, we took a bus south and wound up celebrating on a small island called Ko Chang on the Andaman coast, close to Burma (not to be confused with the Ko Chang on the Gulf coast!). It was not paradise-like but was a quiet, untouristy island with maybe 7-8 bungalow operations, and we spent a peaceful day there drinking cocktails and swimming in the ocean. The following day we returned to the mainland and continued south, taking a boat trip on the Phang Nga bay (near Krabi) which was the highlight of either of our two recent sojourns in Thailand. The bay is similar to Halong Bay, but a mangrove forest at the start of the trip (prettier than it sounds) added an extra aspect to it, and I was able to get lots of great photos.

With the timing of the start of our next jobs uncertain, we gambled a little and decided to continue south to Malaysia. We only managed to spend three days there unfortunately, but it was enough to explore the island city of Georgetown, which is a fabulous melting pot of Indian, Chinese and Malaysian cultures that, I suppose, represents Malaysia as a whole, and also spend a night in Kuala Lumpur, a pretty interesting large city by Asian standards.

On Tuesday night we flew out of KL, and we landed in Sydney five days ago, an unexpected trip that is a bit of a bonus for us as we get to visit family and friends here. We’re going to be based here for the next few weeks, doing what work we can from here while waiting for the green light to go to Beijing, where we’ll live for the next seven months as part of a planning team for the Olympic News Service for Beijing 2008.

I’m starting to put up more pictures from all of the countries we visited in Southeast Asia, so you can check them out here.

Last days in Vietnam

Saturday, January 12th, 2008

After leaving Halong Bay, we were lucky to make a connection in Hanoi and board a sleeper train to Lao Cai in the very northwest of Vietnam, from where, if we had visas, we could have literally walked into China. That’s the second time we’ve been within 20km of China and not managed to get across the border (the first being in Pakistan 3 1/2 years ago), but something tells me we’ll make it to China one day soon.

Instead, we took a connecting bus to Sapa, a mountain village famous for its nearby scenery and ethnic villages. It’s an incredibly touristy place these days, but still very enjoyable if the weather’s right. We arrived at about 7am, having left Halong Bay at 12:30pm the day before, and would have liked nothing more than to get under our cosy blankets and sleep the morning away. But it was shaping up to be a glorious day with no clouds in sight, something rather unexpected as other travelers we had talked to said they often couldn’t see 10m in front of them in Sapa because the place was enveloped in mist and cloud.

So instead we trudged off down the hill for a 12km round-trip walk to the village of Lau Chai. Our guidebook says you need to have a guide and permit to do this, but we managed (rather skilfully, I thought) to avoid these restrictions and walked unhindered to the village. Largely because of Sapa’s popularity with foreign tourists, the ethnic Vietnamese villagers in this area, especially the women, have retained their traditional garb, unlike in other parts of the country. They really do look very pretty in their different outfits, depending on what ethnicity they are. The most striking are the Dao women, who shave their eyebrows and head and wear brilliant red headresses. It’s also pretty amazing to hear how well some of these women speak English, owing to the giant tourist trade. Many of them walk down from Sapa with the foreigners, chatting about their families etc. This invariably leads to offers to buy handicrafts once you get to Lau Chai, but it’s a nice way to converse with the villagers and learn a little about their lives all the same.

Once again we were disappointed to have arrived in such a place at the wrong time of year to see the rice fields at their best, but the mountain scenery was still quite lovely, and we really were blessed to have such a fabulous day. The next was very overcast (though not as bad as what had been described to us earlier) and we couldn’t see any of the mountains around Sapa that had been so clear the day before. It’s very cold in the mountains at this time of year, especially on days like that, so we considered ourselves lucky to have had one nice day up there and made our way back to Hanoi.

After a visit to Nimh Binh, where we saw some old royal temples, took a boat trip through Tam Coc, which literally means three caves, and met a group of five cyclists trying to make it overland to Europe (check them out: http://www.fueledbyrice.org), we went back to Hanoi for one final time and, after nearly four weeks in Vietnam, decided to fly back to Bangkok to spend the last couple of weeks of our trip exploring parts of Thailand that we have yet to visit. We arrived two days ago and will spend the next week or so in the central plains and northeast area. If time permits, we’ll head south to enjoy the scenery of Krabi and some other places.

Halong Bay … twice

Wednesday, January 2nd, 2008

After taking an all-night bus from Hue to Hanoi a few nights ago, we were suddenly hit with the realisation of being in north Vietnam as the temperatures were the coldest of our trip so far and had us ... [Continue reading this entry]