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Roma non basta una vita

Friday, September 12th, 2008

Castor. Or Pollux.There’s just something indescribable about this city that captivates me in a way that no other does. It doesn’t matter how many times I come back, I’m always excited when I arrive in Rome, and each time the city seems somehow more intriguing than the last.

I’ve spent about 15 months in Rome over the past seven years, and if I had a checklist of things to do and see, it would only be getting longer. The Caput Mundi continues to reveal more and more of its ancient self as time goes on.

Just in this short visit alone, we were able to do a few things that weren’t possible a year or two ago:

–    Visit the newly excavated underground ruins of Citta del’Aqua, a Neronian era (circa AD 65) apartment complex near the Trevi Fountain.

Frescoes in the House of Augustus on the Palatine Hill–    Go into the newly opened House of Augustus on the Palatine Hill with its restored wall frescoes (pictured right).

–    See the 13 BC Ara Pacis, also newly opened, in a museum near its original location in the early Empire era Campus Martius between the Pantheon and the Mausoleum of Augustus.

Meanwhile, the ongoing Metro Line C project continues to reveal further ancient ruins underneath the city, most notably at the heart of modern Rome in Piazza Venezia. And I was told that the most famous chariot racing stadium of the entire Roman Empire – the Circus Maximus – will soon finally be properly excavated at a cost of €3m.

The only downside on this trip to the Eternal City: sadly, for the first time in its 2600+ year history, it now costs to enter the Roman Forum. (This has also permanently changed the landscape of the expatriate tour guiding industry, rendering it impossible to run tours the way we did from 2001-04, but that’s another story.)

Against this backdrop of a Rome that stands the test of time, Wendy and I wandered endlessly and aimlessly around the centro storico for a few days, eating fabulous food and hatching schemes about when and how we can return.

On Wednesday, with those thoughts fresh in our minds, we put on our backpacks, followed Constantine the Great, and headed east.

A wedding in L’Aquila

Thursday, September 11th, 2008

I’m a bit overdue for updates from Italy, seeing as how Wendy and I are now in Turkey, but here’s the first of them anyway.

The reason we came to Europe from China in the first place (a rather large detour, since our original plan was to stay in Asia and go directly from Beijing to Nepal) was to see our good friend Mike from our tour guiding days get married to his Italian fiancee Silvia.

Last Friday we went to L’Aquila, a town of 60,000 people about 90 minutes drive from Rome, with nine other Rome-based friends of the groom – my close friends Paul, Tyson and Gabriel, as well as a few others I hadn’t seen in years and a few who I don’t know that well. L’Aquila is Silvia’s home town and I admit that I had not heard of it before Mike and her become involved. In sight-packed Italy, L’Aquila barely rates a mention in guide books and there are no tourists there whatsoever, but it has a beautiful old town with a Spanish castle, cobble-stone streets and a dozen historic churches, and I quite enjoyed my first visit there. It’s the kind of town that makes you appreciate how fascinating Europe really is – if it was a colonial town in the Americas it would be as famous as Cartagena.

The wedding was on Saturday evening in San Silvestre, one of the aforementioned churches. It’s a beautiful place, Romanesque in style with a simple yet stunning interior of stone arches and centuries-old frescoes. It wasn’t too grandiose or large – a perfect size for the 80 or so guests – but it was daunting enough to make me nervous just being a guest! (In contrast, our own Italian wedding last year was in a much smaller medieval monastery opposite the Baths of Caracalla in Rome). It was the first Catholic wedding for either Wendy or me, and it was a bit awkward as I didn’t know how it would play out and wasn’t familiar with the prayers. But it was a great experience to see an Italian Catholic wedding in any case and the guests who have been to a few said it was a beautiful ceremony. Not content with the usual rice-throwing shenanigans, we pelted the bride and groom with uncooked pasta when they exited the church and barely let up when the ‘Basta!’ cries started.

The reception was at the most exclusive restaurant in L’Aquila on large and picturesque grounds outside the old city. It went until 5am and was an absolute riot; the highlights included Paul being first into the pool fully clothed as everyone had predicted and Paul and Tyson’s English/Italian best men speech that had us in stitches.

The next day, all of us light on sleep and most of us rather hungover, we headed back to Rome. For Wendy and I it was a last chance to explore our favourite city – until the next wedding, that is…

Our Wedding

Thursday, June 14th, 2007

Well, I'm now married! Wendy and I enjoyed a wonderful (albeit wacky) ceremony on Thursday, May 31, in beautiful Roma, with 30 guests attending from eight different countries.

WeddingWe were very lucky ... [Continue reading this entry]