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Monks and Chiang Mai

Friday, November 2nd, 2007

We had a nice moment two mornings ago when we were forced to wake up at 5:15am to catch a 6am bus (and no, that in itself wasn’t the nice moment…). We walked outside the guest house onto the street in Mae Sot, bleary-eyed, and looked down the road to find about 10 Buddhist monks – most of them ‘novice’ monks, some as young as seven or so – walking up and down the street seeking alms, as is their custom. Several people were up to greet them at this hour, giving them alms and praying to them. I counted three different women who were waiting outside their houses with a pot full of freshly boiled rice to give to the monks.

Buddhism is such a peaceful, gentle religion that often brings a smile to your face – this was one of those times.

We somehow ended up missing the 6am bus for what it’s worth, even though we were at the appointed stop before 6am, but got another at about 7:40am and were in Chiang Mai by the afternoon. Chiang Mai is hard to figure out – it’s obviously a tourist mecca, with over 200 travel agencies offering hill tribe trekking trips, and seemingly ever other building in the old city being either a café, an internet café, a massage parlour or a guesthouse. There are tons of foreigners about – if you walk by a café aimed at Western travellers there are always customers there, no matter what the time of day. Yet we visited five different temples complexes within the city and hardly saw any tourists at any of them. What do the gap-year-faux-hippy schlock (sorry Lucy, but I love this phrase) do with themselves all day?

So the city as a whole is not necessarily impressive, but the temple complexes are all quite interesting. Each of the five we visited (except perhaps the last one) offered something new and different, so all were quite worthwhile and enjoyable. At one temple yesterday afternoon, we arrived just as about 25-30 monks were praying inside, which was a nice experience and gave me a chance to get some great photos. Plus, we found the Chiang Mai branch of May Kaidee’s vegetarian restaurant so we had two really lovely lunches the past two days.

Well, after a bit of a whirlwind tour of Thailand, tomorrow we’re taking a bus for six hours or so to Chiang Khong and then crossing the Mekong into Laos. We have 30-day visas and will hopefully stay in Laos for most, if not all, of this time before heading down to Cambodia and the Angkor temples.

More photos are up here, but I haven’t had time to tag/label the latest ones properly…

Something New

Monday, October 29th, 2007

After a third set of ruins yesterday – Si Satchanalai, possibly the best of the three and certainly the best situated, in jungle-like scenery that recalls Raiders of the Lost Ark – we decided it was time for something new, and to that end we made our way to Mai Sot with the idea of taking a multi-day rafting/trekking/elephant riding/waterfalls/hot springs/hill tribe village trip.

Unfortunately it didn’t work out. For all the wonderful experiences and memories that travel has given us, it also brings out the worst sometimes. I’ve fainted while entranced from whirling dervishes in Pakistan; thrown up four times consecutively out of a bus window in India; had hemorrhoids in Morocco; the worst diarrhea imaginable in Benin … and yesterday, something new: a seizure on the side of a Thai highway. I’m not really sure how this turned from what felt like standard motion sickness as we were travelling on a minibus through some mountains to severe cramping in all four limbs with my hands involuntary compressing into a claw-like position, but that’s what happened. It was a bit frightening, but after a while the feeling came back into my hands and feet and I feel OK now.

At any rate, we decided it wouldn’t be very smart to take the 4-hour, 165km journey to Umphang, on a road that yesterday’s driver described as 10 times worse than the one we were just on, especially as we’d have to do it twice since Umphang is a dead-end. That means we’ll miss out on the multi-day trip, but we’ll make up for it by finding some elephant trekking in Laos. Besides, we save loads of money this way as it was going to be very expensive (about US$330 dollars for the two of us, when we are otherwise averaging less than US$20 per day between us in Thailand).

So, we’re spending a quiet day today in Mai Sot. We’re only 6km from the Burmese border, and we’ve already seen a few Burmese on the streets here. You can tell the Burmese because the women have a pasty substance in their faces which is common in Burma, and the men wear longyis, a sort of sarong, as regular clothes. (Thinking of longyis always makes me smile as I remember a newspaper article I read in Burma that started: ‘Most men in Western countries wear pants.’) So it’s been nice to recall our month in Burma four years ago but also sad to think about the crushing of the recent protests that was worse than what happened in Tiananmen Square in 1989 and appears to have done little to sway the world powers to act against the junta – isn’t it funny how if Burma had oil, the US military would be bombing the country and removing the junta as I type?. (Ted, I just realised that you might be blocked from reading this post in China, now that I mentioned Tiananmen Square. Interesting test, no?)

Anyway, tomorrow we’ll probably head to Chiang Mai in our continued efforts to get to Laos, though I’m not so much looking forward to the “gap-year-faux-hippy schlock”, which is how our friend Lucy describes the city.

Walking around Sukothai

Saturday, October 27th, 2007

Another day, another set of Thai ruins. This time we're in Sukothai, a more popular - and more impressive - insight into Thai history and culture than Ayutthaya.

This morning we rode in the back of a pick-up truck ... [Continue reading this entry]

The ruins of Ayutthaya

Thursday, October 25th, 2007

Double rooms for less than $5, meals for less than $1, Buddha images everywhere ... yeah, it must be Southeast Asia. We’re into day four of our little journey, and after a couple of days in Bangkok sleeping and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Southeast Asia

Sunday, October 21st, 2007

When Wendy and I first starting looking beyond Europe on a world map five years ago, Indochina (Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam) was high on our list of regions to visit. We went to Southeast Asia twice in 2003 but somehow ... [Continue reading this entry]