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Accra life

Tuesday, April 17th, 2007

Nothing terribly exciting to report from the last few days, but we’ve been enjoying ourselves here in Accra, the Ghanian capital. With three-part road flyovers, BMW showrooms, sidewalks (!) and yummy smoothie shops, it’s significantly more developed than anywhere else we’ve been to so far in sub-Saharan Africa. Also, as a coastal city, it’s not as hot as it is further north, a nice bonus.

We’ve managed to meet up with two travellers we’ve been bumping into throughout West Africa: the incomporable Ted Chang, he of more than 100 countries visited and someone who is more interested than any other person on earth in visa costs around the globe; and Lachlan ‘Lockie’ Prouse, who bought a bicycle in southern China three years ago and has since cycled it all the way here save for one Cairo-Frankfurt flight and the odd enforced boat ride. The four of us have been staying with an upper-class Ghanian here in Accra which has been rather interesting after coming from places like Mali where people like Steven (who owns a successful graphic design company, has a 4WD etc) just don’t seem to exist.

Wendy and I intended to leave Accra for Cape Coast today but somehow didn’t get around to it. Lockie took off on his bike this afternoon, so the rest of us will perhaps pass him on the road tomorrow morning and we’ll all meet up again in the afternoon.

After a few glitches (i.e. you’re not allowed to smile for your passport photo if you’re Australian), I put my application in yesterday so hopefully by next week I’ll have my new 64-page passport. Meanwhile, the Australian High Commission is putting on a service and BBQ for Anzac Day next Wednesday so Lockie (another Aussie) and I are going to attend, and maybe they’ll let me bring Wendy as well.

Onto Ghana

Thursday, April 12th, 2007

After two-and-a-half months in French-speaking countries in north and west Africa, we’re now happy to be in English-speaking Ghana, which is nice not only for that. It’s still West Africa, but you can tell here immediately that it’s more developed than Burkina Faso, which was in turn more developed than Mali. Ghana was the first West African country to gain independence 50 years ago and has managed to avoid the civil wars and other conflicts that have plagued nearby countries like Cote d’Iviore, Liberia and Sierra Leone. You can see that there are more facilities here, life is a bit more orderly, and the villages are better off.

Well, the whole reason we added Ghana to the trip in the first place is that I don’t have any space left in my passport and need to get a new one from the Australian High Commission in the capital, Accra. Since last August I’ve only been in one country (the UAE) that has Australian representation, and after more than a year in Qatar you don’t want to spend two weeks in a country that’s basically the same, only with a 30-year head start, while waiting for a new passport. So, as these full-page African visas have been piling up in the last couple of months I was wondering if I could even make it to Ghana. I had to argue a bit with the consul at the Ghanian embassy in Ouaga, who kept telling me my passport was full, but eventually he gave in and put the visa over some Mexican stamps. The border crossing went OK and so tonight we’re taking the bus from the north of the country down to Accra and hopefully I’ll be able to put my application in before the weekend.

Meanwhile, we just returned from a two-day visit to Mole National Park, which is the best wildlife park in Ghana. Aside from some more wonderful elephants, which were larger than the ones we saw in Burkina Faso, we also saw baboons and another type of monkey, two kinds of antelope, crocodiles and warthogs (which I can’t say, or type, without thinking of the Lion King: “When I was a young wart-hhhhoooooogggg!!”). We got to take a two-hour walk through the park yesterday morning and spent most of the rest of the day in the pool at the park hotel.

By the weekend we’re hoping to be on a south coast beach, which will hopefully be nice and relaxing after nearly eight weeks in West Africa. We’re also looking forward to meeting up with a bunch of the travellers we met in Mali and Burkina if we can get our schedules right.

The Gorom-Gorom Thursday market

Friday, April 6th, 2007

After a couple of days eating lasagne and doing other like-minded things in Ouaga that you can't do in West Africa outside of major cities, we journeyed to the northeast of Burkina Faso, entering the Sahel for a couple ... [Continue reading this entry]

African elephants

Monday, April 2nd, 2007

Yesterday was probably the best day we've had in West Africa. We spent some of the morning and pretty much the entire afternoon watching a herd of wild elephants eating and bathing literally outside our bungalow window.

It was ... [Continue reading this entry]

An actual real forest in West Africa

Wednesday, March 28th, 2007

Greenery rocks. Especially if you haven't seen any lately, and even more so if you didn't even know you were about to see it...

We rented bicycles this morning to ride to a swimming river about 18km outside Bobo. ... [Continue reading this entry]

A village mask festival

Tuesday, March 27th, 2007

Mali was a pretty tough experience for us, more than we'd expected. Though it's a very poor country, it's also seen as the 'jewel' in West Africa's crown for tourism, so I thought there would be more facilities for ... [Continue reading this entry]

Slow boat up the Niger

Tuesday, March 27th, 2007

One more Mali ‘catch-up’ post before getting to Burkina Faso and more recent events…

After leaving Dogon Country, we took a public motor boat up the Niger River to Timbuktu. Because it’s the dry season, the river levels are ... [Continue reading this entry]

Dogon Country

Saturday, March 24th, 2007

Dogon Country has probably been the highlight of West Africa so far. We met a bunch of cool travellers in Djenne and were lucky enough to bump into most of them again in Bandiagarra for our three-night trek into ... [Continue reading this entry]

Djenne – a mosque and a market

Saturday, March 24th, 2007

Well, it's been so long since I wrote an entry that I hardly know where to start. Internet access is both expensive and elusive in Mali so I haven't had a chance to update the blog.

After leaving Bamako ... [Continue reading this entry]

The worst bus ride ever

Saturday, March 3rd, 2007

Oh, absolutely. Worse than the 12-hour 'shlerk' bus from Risanni to Marrakesh in 2001; worse than the numerous 15-hour cramp buses in south Sumatra in 2003; worse than the 17-hour mountain ride up the Karakoram Highway in 2004; and ... [Continue reading this entry]