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Torres del Paine

(Or the Baguette Towers, as my companion refers to them.) 

Frankly a day out at this wonderful place was yet another unmissable sight on this tour of unmissable and awe-inspiring sights.  However, it could not be done simply.

You will have gathered I’m currently travelling with someone called Cath who has taken on the role of my travel agent.  She researches everything from accommodation to tours to restaurants and had researched the companies who could take us to this granite mountain range.  In particular we we concerned to get comfortable seats in the bus as it is a 300km round trip.  This meant we waited for ages while the bloke in the chosen tour company answered his phone, hired a car, answered his other phone, made a few calls etc…

We got on the bus last at 0730 (a lie in) to find we were in the povo seats at the back where there should have been a luggage rack.  I mentioned this to our guide at at the coffee stop and he sort of shrugged.  Half an hour later we were sitting on the side of the road as the bus broke down.  We waited for an hour for a replacement, but it was fine as we had a brilliant view of the mountains and guanacos and eagles for company (and later saw a condor and many flamingos – it really is a twitcher’s paradise).

Chuffed with the replacement bus as we could see out of the window and had some space.  It even meant the guides awful jokes were acceptable, although his best (unwitting) line was when he was telling us of the flight to Patagonia by Butch Cassidy and the Sunshine Band.  From now on that is the only way I can refer to the gunslingers.  By then we were late and had to bolt lunch, but again fine as we got to visit an iceberg on the beach of the lake and eat some glacier.

I still felt that we were being a bit rushed and was then confused when the tour seemed to end abruptly and we were waiting around.  Our previously over friendly guide by now would not make eye contact.  This was because we were to pick up a family of five and their holiday luggage leaving no room once again.  Ooh, I was vexed.  After two hours on unsealed roads at great speed my coccyx had been shattered and the poor guide got it in the neck.  When I tried to get back on the bus he was in my seat and I had the front one.  Good.  Meant he got his tip.

When we got back to the hostel there was no light in the bathroom.  Just thought I’d mention that.  Anyway, it was all great and a change from the far south of Patagonia which is flat, windswept and desolate.  Like Lincolnshire but without the poisonous agri-chemicals.

Now in Argentina, which is great, as I knew it would be.  Unfortunately I didn’t get in until 6 this morning having gone to see the Miss El Calafate beauty contest at the local school disco.  So today is a day of rest until a hoped for moonlit tour of the Perito Moreno Glacier tonight.



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2 Responses to “Torres del Paine”

  1. Stuart (as in Phil's mate) Says:

    Martin. I’ve been sitting on the sidelines following your journey from afar and a very entertaining one it is too. You should consider publishing it! Anyway, take care matey it’d be great to catch up when you return to blighty.

  2. Angelina Says:

    Bloody hell, I can’t keep up with this.
    Lucky you did that bird watching when you were 16, you wouldn’t have been able to recognise them.
    Butch’s version of “That’s the Way I like it” was almost as good as Dead or Alive.
    Stop eating them glaciers, there’ll be none left before you know it.
    That man has to earn his crust on bumby roads, for a pittance, every day of his life. I bet he hasn’t got a coccyx left at this stage and I bet that family of five were let on because of his charitable heart (no charge). He’ll be in the pub later, “the miserable English always wanting the best of everything. Viva Malvinas”.
    Is the moonlit tour by bus? Mmmm, he’ll have told his mates. Your name’s mud… You’ll be in the much sought after “roof seat”.
    Glad you’re back in your spiritual home. Don’t forget to look out for that nice holiday villa…

  3. Angela Says:

    Why is my previous comment being moderated? I put it on last night. I suppose it’ll show up one day. I must say some very risky stuff, life on the edge, that’s me…

  4. admin Says:

    As I said, he still got his tip. If he has got a family he’s a biy forward as he’s a student. I’d have paid for a roof seat in that sodding bus.

  5. Posted from Argentina Argentina

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