Canada to Patagonia at a Worrying Age

This is probably going to be long and fairly boring if you’re not me. Sorry in advance, but I want to remember as much of the day as possible. It’s probably the most important day in Bolivia’s history since…

…and the square is filling with Aymara Indians, miners and the like. As suggested this is to be the people’s day. Evo has promised to end colonial government, reject neo-liberalism and continue the struggle of Che! Is this all too good to be true? Probably, and as one country Bolivia can hardly challenge the hegemony of the religious-capitalist right in the US. However, if the likes of Venezuela, Chile and the other states in this bloc can continue to espouse and enact progressive policies that the world so clearly needs maybe the experiences of the seventies and eighties can be overturned.

All Smile Or Don’t

Anyway, onto my experience. As suspected, there were ‘complications’ at the hotel, with woman I’m dealing with lying that the police own the hotel. At one point during the discussions she intimated that I was an American (and hence overly demanding). Had to put her right on that one.

Entirely predictably the TV networks have bagged the best rooms, no doubt paying significantly more than I’m prepared to. This means I have a room with a lesser view, but it’s still pretty good and it’s a mad, massive suite (plus 25% off for my trouble). Now to just sit back and see how the day goes. No sports channel, though, so the United – Liverpool game will have to take place without my participation.

I see I’m being watched by the police from a nearby rooftop. Just as well as there has been no security checks whatsoever. I could easily have been packing a rifle, and with full length net curtains could probably take aim at my leisure. If I had a gun, that is. Or knew how to fire one. Or wanted to kill anyone.

Marching band has arrived, signifying the start of something. Then an announcement of solidarity – yes that word was used – from the British Prime Minister. What? TV pictures show that Evo is still at house, wearing a fetching chompa.

It’s already getting very emotional. One of the reporters has already been in tears. I was very close when an Aymara woman was buying a flag in the square. Makes no sense, I know.

Kirchner has arrived at the airport, as have 8 other presidents – don’t think Bush is among them.

Noon – Outgoing president arrives to catcalls and whistles – kick off at Old Trafford. Posters of Che abound. More dignitaries arrive – this time to claps and cheers. The huge Bolivian flag that is in my room is unfurled and popped on the balcony. There is every chance I shall wave it.

1230 – Popular luminary arrives – no idea who he is. Possibly the Cuban envoy as the vocal crew with the blue and white flags start chanting ‘Cuba, Cuba!’ Apparently, Castro isn’t coming – gardening, decorating, what? Maradona’s meant to be here though. Believe when I see it. And I should see it. This view’s better than I thought – feel a bit bad now for having a go.

1240 – Chavez arrives – vocal support evident. TV indicates that Evo is still at home. Crowd will have to amuse themselves with lesser souls for a while yet. Although loads of Aymara women are now appearing. I read from his autobiography (7p from street vendor) that his parents were llama farmers. Of course they were

1245 – Kirchner arrives in square – not 25m from me. Gets mobbed by crowd. All this lot are walking to the event. Not a limousine in sight. Open the champagne.

1255 – Chavez arrives – crowd goes a bit wild, but not very. He didn’t go to meet them like Kirchner.

1300 – Outgoing Chilean president arrives. Loser. Evo still hasn’t left his casa.

1315 – everyone’s ready – the band have played a tune. Where’s Evo? He’s leaving the house! Without his chompa! He’ll catch his death. Nice jacket, though.

1320 – Evo arrives. Crowd didn’t quite realise. Smallish chant of Evo, Evo! Bit of a let down. Still – I saw him. Switch to telly now for swearing in. Perhaps it’ll be better when he comes out. He’ll be el presidente then.

1410 – Ceremony over, but outgoing president making a long speech. However, it appears as though United have beat the scousers. So that’s all good. According to my source (Angela), Ferdinand did something right for once and Gary’s in a bit of trouble. President Morales pardons you, Gary.

1415 – The chant goes up Evo, Evo! Come on Bolivia – time for a party…

Evo holds up his left fist clenched for the swearing in! Crowd goes mad.

Evo in tears – as am I. National Anthem – sung beautifully. Fantastic. How lucky I feel. Cannons fire around the city.

A minute’s silence for the martyrs. More tears.

1425 – Evo’s speech – talk of the indigenous people having enemies and something about South Africa. 500 years of something. We are continuing the struggle of Che. No robbery, no exploitation, no humiliation. This man is not messing about. And he’s got a fabulous centre parting. Corruption’s out the window. Congress listen uncertainly – get the bird from the crowd.

“The large entailed estate is unconstitutional.” Land reform as well!

“Neoliberalism is unemployment.” Go on my son. Can it get better?

1455 – Maybe he should think of winding up now – the crowd are looking a bit bored… Oh, hold on, they’re cheering again.

“There is international solidarity.” “We will change history with this parliament.” (It’s probably worth remembering that some of these translations may be approximate.)

1515 – still going. Odd ripple of applause at this stage. Come on Evo – you’re expected at Plaza San Francisco in a bit. Applause, cheers. Laughter.

“We are finished with slavery.” “We are finished with illiteracy.” Neither Fidel or Chavez have infected me!”

Headline on telly. “Evo has now been speaking for over an hour…”

He’s back on corruption now. We’re going to stamp on it in the streets and at customs, apparently. Big cheer.

1530 – It’s the soldiers standing to attention, I feel sorry for.

“We will resolve our historical problems with Chile.” That’ll take some doing.

If anyone’s still reading, well done. I think I’ll leave the speech for now and wait for some action, especially as there hasn’t been a cheer for quite some time…

1550 – Well done Evo. And out into the square we go to try to get pictures.

And here we have Evo and Hugo sharing a joke. Vice President looks on.

A hour of armed forces bands followed after which Evo went over to Plaza San Francico for the ‘fiesta’. I went along but after a bit decided to leave the party to make full use of my hotel room – ie the bath. Will rejoin the party later, in the meantime it’s on the telly, with the vice-pres saying pretty much the same things as his boss and at similar length…

Given La Paz’s topography song of the day is The Alabama 3’s Mansion on the Hill – Evo sure has the keys.

Evo gave another couple of small speeches before the end of play. As he spoke his final words, it rained (not a drop all day). Can he really control the weather as well?

Oh well, it’s been a great day and Bolivia is a great country. So I’m off to Chile in the morning.

NB The ads come on – it’s all European looking types. Bit of a way to go yet.

End of Day

Out for fiesta, food and fireworks. People still await further glimpses of Evo, but I feel like I know him quite well now. I’ll be boring people for years over his progress. Martha and Jose (the hotel ‘fixers’) finish my day by arranging, unbidden, my car to the airport Jose says next time he’ll set me up with many girls and Martha asks me to remember that God is always in my heart. So there we go.

Tags: Travel

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