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Articles Tagged ‘In English 2005-2006’

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Welcome to Cambodia…an unusual border crossing

Sunday, April 9th, 2006

From southern Laos to Stung Treng, Cambodia, it is possible to cross the border (and despite all of the published information, it is possible to get a Cambodian visa.) We actually got our Cambodian visa in Vientiane, so we were well-prepared. We booked transport from Don Det (the island where we were staying) to Kratie, a town in the north of Cambodia, about 4 hours from the border. Our day began early, we took a longtail boat at 7:30AM to the mainland where we changed to a sangathew that would take us to the Laos border post. The road to the border post was in quite bad shape and we drove a bumpy 5-6km through the woods before reaching it; by the time we got there we were covered in a thick orange dust. Getting stamped out of Laos was easy (it just required an additional unofficial $2.) From the makeshift building, we walked about 10 minutes down the road to another makeshift building, the Cambodian border post. Once again another $2 facilitated our Cambodian stamps. After we were finished with Cambodian immigration, we were herded into a restaurant/tour office, where a guy put out a Cambodian map on the table. We looked at each other suspiciously, what were we waiting for? The guy then tried unsuccessfully to sell us bus tickets to other places in the country. We had our tickets to Kratie, just take us there, we thought. After about 30 minutes of arguing, a minivan arrived and drove us to Cambodia. This required returning on the same 5km dirt road we had arrived from earlier. Once we reached the main road, we turned south (thankfully) and crossed another Cambodian checkpoint. It was here that one of the guys in our van, got his visa to enter Cambodia. From there we drove to Stung Treng, the town closest to the border, where we had to cross another river by boat. When we arrived in Stung Treng, we were taken to a restaurant to wait for our connection to Kratie. We grabbed lunch and waited for the bus. What actually arrived was a Toyota Camry. Wow, we thought, taxi service, we were going to ride in style with the Irish couple also waiting to go to Kratie. Little did we know, that we 4 would be in the backseat, while 4 others would be in the front. Yes, two in the passenger seat and two in the driver’s seat. After 2 1/2 hours on a road under heavy construction, we finally arrived in Kratie. Exhausted after another long day of transport, but excited to be in a new country.

Vientiane and Southern Laos

Wednesday, April 5th, 2006

Vientiane, the capital of Laos is a quiet little town with good food and an easy going atmosphere. It hardly feels like a capital city; the tallest building in town is a newly constructed luxury hotel. We spent our days visiting numerous wats, admiring a bit of remaining French colonial architecture, munching on croissants, baguettes and the infamous noodle soups and taking care of our Cambodian visa.  It hardly has the old time feel of Luang Prabang, as the city was raised by the Siamese in the 20th century, and all of the temples except Wat Sisaket (it was the Siamese headquarters) were destroyed.    But it is a good place to get feel for the history and spirt of Laos. We marveled at the communist propaganda in the National Museum, notably denouncing the French slave drivers and the American Imperialists, the Victory Monument (a hideous Laotian interpretation of the Arc de Triomphe) which was built using concrete Americans sent to build an airport, and That Lang, a large gold-colored stupa, that is the symbol of Laos and appears on all of the Laotian currency.  From the bank of the Mekong we could see Thailand, and we were impressed to see that the fertile river bottom (left exposed in the dry season) was being utilized for agriculture. 

From Vientiane, we took an overnight bus (luxury liner) to Pakse in the south, where we caught a connection to the Bolaven Plateau. The Bolaven Plateau is famous for coffee plantations (the French introduced coffee production to Laos, and now they produce some of the world’s finest coffee, though I never got used to their style of drinking it- with super rich condensed milk.)  The climate (like most of Laos) is excellent for agriculture and they also grow a lot of bananas, pineapples and rubber trees.  We stayed at the Tadlo waterfalls in a rustic little bungalow near the river.  The owners were fantastic and gave us free fruit salad and pineapple fruit shakes. We took a a tour on motorbikes to some surrounding tribal villages, the coffee plantations and another waterall.  After Tadlo Falls, we headed to Champassak to visit Wat Phu, a temple dedicated to Shiva, and built in the Khmer style (linked with Angkor Wat and other Khmer temples.) The site was chosen because of the natural lingum, or phallus (if you don’t know what that means, pull out your Webster’s dictionary) that appears on the hill behind hit.
From Champassak, we went to Si Phan Don (4,000 islands), where we made Don Det (Det Island) our last offical stop in Laos.  The island was connected by a railroad bridge to Don Khone, another small island, popular for tourism.  The French built a railroad at the beginning of last century, across the two islands, to transport good brought on barges from Saigon to Vientiane.  This stretch of the river is unnavigable, with dangerous rapids and enormous waterfalls (the largest in Laos.)  The waterfalls (Samphamit Falls and the larger Khong Phabeng Falls) were extremely impressive, a series of towering falls with a thundering flow of water (no rock jumping here.) We also took a longtail boat to see the endangered Irrawaddy river dolphins. They inhabit an area of the river near the Cambodian border (depth 300m- 900ft), and we were able to see many from a far. A nice quiet ending to our stay in Laos, before making an adventurous border crossing into Cambodia via a semi-official border.

Only in Asia

Friday, March 24th, 2006
We've seen a lot of interesting things these last 6 months in India and Southeast Asia. I'm beginning to wonder if there is anything left that could shock us.  For example, Fabien and I were walking along the bank of ... [Continue reading this entry]

Vang Vieng

Friday, March 24th, 2006
Our trip from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng was relatively uneventful. The scenery,however, was spectacular as we drove through the mountains. Unfortunately, they are in to slash and burn agriculture here, and they are burning a lot of the hillsides, ... [Continue reading this entry]

What the future holds…

Saturday, March 18th, 2006
Fabien and I have been working hard on this blog to tell you about our travel adventures...maybe you're interested in our plans after the "big trip."  Our trip will come to an end in just over 2 months.  We will fly back ... [Continue reading this entry]

Luang Prabang- a little Laotian/French cultural heritage

Saturday, March 18th, 2006

Luang Prabang, the ancient capital of the Siam, is a Unesco heritage site, and said to be one of the best preserved towns in southeast Asia.  We arrived here a couple of days ago, after a grueling 3 hour ride ... [Continue reading this entry]

Transport in Laos is slow going…but the trip is well worth it

Friday, March 17th, 2006
Luang Nam Tha-Muang Ngoi Neua March 12th Fabien and I were ready to go around 7AM on Sunday morning. The bus to Vientianne (which would drop off us at Pak Mong) was scheduled to leave at 8:30. We knew we should ... [Continue reading this entry]

Luang Nam Tha

Friday, March 17th, 2006
Luang Nam Tha is a dusty little town in the north of Laos.  It is a popular tourist destination because of the great hill tribe trekking available in the area.  We had a nice little stay there. We spent a ... [Continue reading this entry]

Hill Tribe Trekking in the North of Laos

Friday, March 17th, 2006
Thursday, March 9th- Saturday, March 11th Our first day began early in the morning around 7AM. We had to finish preparing our bags for the trek and exchange traveler's checks at the bank (we actually hadn't seen a bank opn since ... [Continue reading this entry]

A little update on Laos

Wednesday, March 8th, 2006
I've been a little slow at posting on the blog lately. I just wrote three new posts (I'll finish Bangkok soon...) We are in Luang Nam Tha, Laos. Once again, entering a new country is like entering a new universe. It ... [Continue reading this entry]