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Rogue-Umpqua Scenic Byway, Diamond Lake and Crater Lake NP, Oregon

Saturday, July 30th, 2011

July 13th-15th

We woke up at six in the morning the day we left Coos Bay. We wanted to get an early start to be able to fully enjoy the drive to Crater Lake. Coos Bay was cloaked in a fog at that hour. We stopped at a covered-bridge to take a picture and then drove on to Roseburg where we stopped at one of the ubiquitous espresso stands (little buildings selling caffeine-enriched brews) before picking up the Rogue-Umpqua Scenic Byway. This highway is known as the “highway of waterfalls” and we made lots of road side stops to admire the falls. The Umpqua River is also ideal for rafting or kayaking, but we weren’t prepared for a water adventure. We decided to camp at Diamond Lake, with the picturesque Mt. Bailey in the background. It was considerably warmer at this lower altitude than at the campground at Crater Lake. We found a lovely campsite directly next to the lake and set up our camp chairs by the water’s edge. Then we enjoyed a long aperitif before dinner and planned out the following day’s excursion to Crater Lake.

My first visit to Crater Lake was eleven years ago with my friend Lynduh while we were doing a road trip through the Pacific Northwest (it was a short road trip compared to this one.) We stopped off and camped there for the night. I will never forget the intense blue water from the lake. I wasn’t disappointed on my second visit. We entered the park from the west side – our first stop was in a parking lot surrounded by snow- much of the scenic lake loop was closed because of snow cover. We hiked up over the snow bank to see the lake which shone a deep twilight blue, offset by the white snow that still sprinkled its banks. Crater Lake is the deepest lake in the United States. It was formed when a volcano imploded. Its water is said to be among the purest in the world- its only source is rain and melting snow.

As much of the park was closed, we spent some time exploring the area around the lodge (another classic CCC building) and the visitor center which had a fascinating display on volcanoes. We made a stop at a second visitor center and watched the park film and a film about plowing the roads- if I understood correctly, they spend 3 months a year just plowing the roads to make it accessible to visitors for another 3-4 months. It’s a crazy undertaking. We did one hike through a snow field to get another fantastic view of the lake. It’s an awesome site that you have to see in person to understand the full magnitude.

Coos Bay (where I was born) and the Oregon Coast

Thursday, July 28th, 2011

July 8th– July 12th

As we crossed the border between California and Oregon on Highway 101 (the coastal highway), the weather seemed to magically improve. The fog burned off to a beautiful sunny afternoon with blue skies. We stopped at the impressive new Oregon Visitor Center to pick up some information on state parks, and the lady was very excited to have a Frenchman visiting. We explained that I was born in Coos Bay, just up the coast, but had left when I was a little girl. I was bringing my husband back to see my birth town and to meet some of my extended family. We took advantage of the beautiful weather and made a few stops: notably in Bandon and at Gold Beach to see the scenic shoreline. We arrived in Coos Bay late in the afternoon to a big welcome by my aunt Joyce. We had lots to catch up on, and my friend Jamie (from B.U. and South American adventures) came over after dinner. Jamie moved to Coos Bay a couple of years ago to pursue a position in marine policy.

Coos Bay is the largest port on the west coast between Seattle and San Francisco, and was at one time a boom town for the lumber and fishing industries. In fact, much of my family worked for the lumber company at one point in time. Today, it is still a busy port shipping lumber to all parts of the world (as evidenced by the many logging trucks we passed coming in to town,) but it has suffered from a depressed economy for many years.

Saturday morning, after a good night’s sleep in a cozy bed, my aunt Cindy, uncle Curt and cousin Doug met up with us for a big traditional American breakfast. I had seen them all a year before on a trip out to Oregon with my mom, but this was the first time that they were meeting Fabien. I think it went well 😉 Later that afternoon, we met up with Jamie and took a walk through downtown Coos Bay, which parallels the Coos River. There are some charming buildings and a historic railroad. Then we drove out to Cape Arago and had a nice walk along the cliffs and through the botanical gardens. On the way back, we stopped in Charleston, the port and had fish and chips for dinner before meeting up with Doug for a beer at a local bar.  

On Sunday, Curt and Cindy invited us out to their place for a BBQ. They live in an interesting place- you could describe them as “off the grid.” They are on a piece of property inland with no city hook-ups, so they are collecting and filtering their own water, using a composting toilet and solar panels for energy. They’re conveniently located on the top of a hill- with a gravel road- it definitely gives you the feeling of escaping city-life. They also have a different climate- it was about 10 degrees warmer at their place than at aunt Joyce’s so we spent all afternoon enjoying the “heat.” On Sunday evening, we went to Jamie’s house for dinner- yummy homemade falafel and hummus, and hung out with her boyfriend.

Monday was supposed to be our last day in Coos Bay. Fabien and I decided to venture out on our own, so we went to a place called Gold and Silver Falls, two beautiful waterfalls with nice hiking trails around. We all went out for Chinese food as a farewell dinner and Jamie came over afterwards. Aunt Joyce brought out some old family photos, and told us more family stories (by the way, I think Jamie has been inducted as an honorary member of the family.)

Tuesday, we woke up to a gray rainy day and the forecast at Crater Lake (our next destination) was terrible. We took advantage of Aunt Joyce’s generous hospitality and stayed an extra day. This time we spent it catching up on paperwork and organizing some of the “after our trip” stuff. The big news is that we are going back to France for three weeks in October with a little stopover in Iceland on the way.

It was hard to say goodbye to my family again. We had a great time and I was very excited that Fabien saw where I spent the first few years of my life.

Redwoods NP, California

Wednesday, July 27th, 2011
July 6th-July 8th We had a pretty long drive between Lassen Volcanic NP and the Redwoods NP on the northern California coast so we broke the day up with a couple of interesting stops. First, we stopped in Redding, a large ... [Continue reading this entry]

Lassen Volcanic NP, California

Wednesday, July 27th, 2011
July 4th- July 6th On Monday morning, the 4th of July, after breakfast and saying our good-byes to our wonderful hosts, we took the scenic highway 89 three hours north to Lassen Volcanic Park. We were expecting hot weather and lots ... [Continue reading this entry]

Lake Tahoe, CA: Paradise in the Sierra Nevada

Tuesday, July 19th, 2011
June 26th- July 4th After a good long night of sleep, we woke ready to head up to Lake Tahoe to see our good friends, Angie (who we met in Prague) and Mike. We started the morning with a quick visit ... [Continue reading this entry]

Yosemite National Park, CA

Tuesday, July 19th, 2011
June 24th-June 25th We had tried to reserve a campsite in Yosemite but everything had been booked for months. I half expected to find camp site reservations on Ebay for astronomical prices- it’s that popular! Nevertheless, it’s not a park to ... [Continue reading this entry]

Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, CA

Monday, June 27th, 2011
June 19th- 23rd After recovering our car from the parking garage where it had spent almost a week, we left San Francisco to return southeast towards the Sierra Nevada mountain range to visit two great parks: Sequoia and Yosemite. The first ... [Continue reading this entry]

San Francisco Reunion

Monday, June 27th, 2011
June 14th- June 18th When we got to San Francisco Tuesday afternoon it was a beautiful sunny day. We drove to Lynduh’s, one of my good friends from B.U. who convinced me to move to San Francisco after college and then ... [Continue reading this entry]

Pacific Coast Highway: Santa Barbara to Monterey, CA

Monday, June 27th, 2011
June 9th-June 13th When we left L.A., it was foggy along the coast and a little bit chilly. This is what the southern Californians call the “June Gloom.” The warm summer air meets the cold Pacific Ocean and creates a thick ... [Continue reading this entry]

Welcome to Los Angeles, California

Monday, June 27th, 2011
June 4th -9th It took about four hours to drive from Death Valley to L.A., and the first two hours we didn’t see a sole, let alone a gas station. Then, in an instant, we went from the middle of nowhere ... [Continue reading this entry]