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Death Valley National Park, California

Tuesday, June 14th, 2011

June 2nd- 4th

The stretch of land between Las Vegas and Death Valley was barren and unexciting. We did pass through the Nevada border town where we saw an onslaught of advertising for massage parlors and modern day brothels. Prostitution must be legal here, another of the many contradictions we’ve seen in Puritan America.

We arrived in Death Valley late in the afternoon and our first stop was the campground at Furnace Creek. On Thursday evening there was no problem securing a spot, and we even managed to find a place under some rare shady trees. The temperature was a balmy 90 degrees and dropped down into the 60s overnight. It was much more tolerable than the mid-summer temperatures that can get up to 130F during the day. The names on the map give you an idea of the impressions this vast, arid land has left on earlier explorers: Furnace Creek, Devil’s Golf Course, Dante’s View (inspired by Dante’s Inferno.)

Death Valley is the lowest and hottest place in North America, but the surrounding mountains (among the highest in North America) make it a land of contrasts. While exploring the park on Friday, we visited the ruins of a borax mine, a salty stream with rare pupfish, sand dunes with scorching hot sand, and a canyon decorated with marble. Then we drove up to Dante’s View at 5,475ft above sea level which was engulfed in a cloud and chilly enough to warrant a sweater. From there we drove to Badwater which lies 282 ft below sea level where we walked out onto salt flats. We wrapped up the day with a drive through Artist’s Palette, a scenic landscape of varying hues created by mineral deposits and volcanic ash. The night was warmer than the evening before and we had a hard time sleeping. Saturday morning we woke up earlier, packed up camp and got ready for our drive to Los Angeles. Another land of contrasts…we were going from a bare, desolate land to an area with one of the highest population densities in the world.

Stopover in Las Vegas

Tuesday, June 7th, 2011

May 30th-June 2nd

On the way to Vegas we stopped off in the Valley of Fire State Park. Just the name was draw enough to make this little detour. In fact it’s just more red rocks- though impressive, we’re a little burnt out on cool rocks and left after a picnic lunch and a quick hike to see some cool pictographs.

Neither Fabien nor I are really into gambling or shopping, but Vegas was a stop back in “civilization” for a couple of days. We got a a room at the Days Inn Wild Wild West Gambling Saloon just off the strip for a mere $27 per night. For this price, we also had a big American breakfast at Denny’s and a nice swimming pool and jacuzzi. It was just what we needed for a couple of days of R&R on a budget.

Part of our stay was catching up on mundane chores- haircuts for both of us, doing our French taxes, laundry, sorting pictures, etc. but we also had some time to go play in Vegas. We were amazed by how crowded the strip and the casinos were. I thought we were in an economic crisis (or maybe we are and gambling is a last resort solution.) We wandered through the MGM Grand where we got invited to screen some new TV shows- the line was long though so we passed. Then we wandered down the strip by New York, New York, Paris, the Venetian, the Bellagio with its cool fountains, Caesar’s Palace, the Flamingo all the way to Circus Circus where we caught a circus act and I tried my hand at skiball. We were surprised at how expensive food and cocktails are on the strip- I thought Vegas was supposed to be the land of cheap food and cocktails. Turns out you have to go downtown for that. Fabien ended up trying out a couple of hand of roulette and blackjack, got ahead a few bucks and kept playing thanks to my encouragement before losing 🙁 Now he’s sworn off gambling for 20 years and hardly spoke to me the rest of the night 🙁

For a little bit of seriousness, we did visit the Atomic Testing Museum and learned about Nevada’s nuclear testing site. There were lots of impressive and disturbing videos of mushroom clouds. Apparently in the 50s it became a tourist attraction, and tourists in Vegas would go out to watch them test nuclear bombs in the desert. Vegas really does have it all when it comes to entertainment.

Our favorite part of the stay was seeing Blue Man Group. The show is so original- even Fabien was impressed which is saying a lot.

Thursday morning after checking out of our oasis in the desert (the Days Inn), we drove to the Hoover Dam. It’s an impressive site, a massive wall of concrete, diverting the waters of the mighty Colorado River to the desert southwest and generating electricty for the region. We did a tour of the power plant and visitor’s center. Once again,we were surprised by the number of tourists. Then we picnicked next to the blue waters of Lake Mead before the drive to Death Valley. California here we come!

Memorial Day Weekend in Zion NP

Tuesday, May 31st, 2011
May 26th-May 30th After an early start (we were up around 6:30), we arrived in Zion National Park around 10 AM and snagged the last free camping spot. People were already out in droves to celebrate this long weekend which kicks ... [Continue reading this entry]

Capitol Reef National Park and Bryce Canyon NP, a geologist’s paradise

Sunday, May 29th, 2011
May 23rd-May 26th From Green River, we drove south again to Capitol Reef NP. This park also has some crazy rock formations, but it’s a little different than the previous ones. Here, the rock has been uplifted so everything is on ... [Continue reading this entry]

Arches National Park and Canyonlands NP (Moab, Utah)

Friday, May 27th, 2011
May 20th-22nd Arches National Park is another example of the amazing and otherworldly landscapes found on the Colorado Plateau. It is one of the largest concentrations of natural arch formations in the world. The orange sandstone formations, jutting up from ... [Continue reading this entry]

Welcome to Utah

Friday, May 27th, 2011
May 19th After two nights of camping in the rain and snow, Fabien and I were definitely ready for a hot shower and a warm bed. The weather was still sketchy as we crossed the border to Utah, alternating between dark ... [Continue reading this entry]

Mesa Verde National Park and return of winter (Colorado)

Friday, May 27th, 2011
May 17th-May 19th Mesa Verde is unique among the National Parks because it is the only one fully devoted to archeology. The cliff dwellings at Mesa Verde, built by the Ancestral Puebloans, or Anasazi, are spectacular. We had an”adventurous” time visiting ... [Continue reading this entry]

Rocky Mountain High: Ridgway, Ouray, Silverton, and Durango

Friday, May 27th, 2011
May 16th-May 17th As we left the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, we descended onto a fertile plateau, irrigated by Gunnison River water that had been piped through the mountain. We made a stop in civilization to restock our groceries and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Black Canyon National Park, Colorado

Friday, May 27th, 2011
May 14th-16th The weather was warm and sunny when we woke up, but there were black clouds and storms rolling in by the time we left. We could see rain falling in the distance, but managed to avoid it for most ... [Continue reading this entry]

Colorado bound: Great Sand Dunes National Park

Friday, May 27th, 2011
May 13th-14th We left Taos early in the morning to begin our journey towards Colorado. Neither Fabien nor I had ever been to this beautiful mountainous state. The road followed the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and was relatively flat despite its ... [Continue reading this entry]