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Seminole Canyon State Park, Texas

Thursday, April 14th, 2011

April 7th-8th

We stopped in Del Rio, the last big city, and border town with Mexico to buy some groceries and camping supplies. We have not been able to find the propane canister for our backpacking stove and might be forced to go to plan B as the options are getting slimmer. There was a cloud of dust or smoke- we weren’t really sure- hanging over the city and it didn’t seem particularly inviting.

When we arrived at Seminole Canyon SP the Ranger Station was closed, so we went directly to our campground. The landscape was dramatically different from Hill Country. There were no trees to shade our site or give us privacy from our neighbors, just some desert shrubbery and a shelter covering the picnic table. And it was extremely hot and windy. By the time we got camp set up and were having dinner, the sun went down and the sky turned a beautiful pink and orange color. We took advantage of the park wi-fi to read some news online. The budget disagreement and pending government shut-down were our main concern as it would affect our plans to go to Big Bend.

The next morning, Fabien went for a 6-mile run that followed a path to the Rio Grande River while I organized some of our food supplies and starting packing up camp. (Even though we are in a good routine now, there are still a lot of things to organize each day.) At 10AM we did a guided hike down into the canyon to the Fate Bell Rockshelter to see the pictographs that were painted by ancient nomadic peoples that lived there about 8,000 years ago. The pictographs were of animals and people. Our guide also showed us some of the plants that they ate and used for cleaning (sodol and cactus fruit,) how to start a friction fire and how they through spears using the atlatl which was basically an extension of you arm helping you throw further. By the end of the hike (around 11:30), the sun was heating up. When we got pack to the campsite our thermometer read 110 degrees Fahrenheit.

Guadalupe State Park and San Antonio, Texas

Thursday, April 14th, 2011

April 3rd-7th

We arrived at Guadalupe State Park (in Texas Hill Country) Sunday evening. The park is situated on the Guadalupe River and is a popular weekend destination for locals. We hiked down to the swimming area, a rocky beach on one side with a limestone wall on the other. We waded in to cool off and watched the unusual turkey vultures waiting for the swimmers to leave and hoping to get a bite of their left-over lunch. Back at the campsite, we spent some time on the internet after dinner researching our car problems (see post: Adventures with the car.)

On Monday morning, we drove to the Nissan Dealership in San Antonio to get the gas gauge fixed, had some Tex-Mex for lunch- Fabien had beef fajitas and I had chicken chalupas. Since our day was cut short, we opted to drive up to New Braunfels and Groene rather than visiting San Antonio. We hit the outlet mall to buy new hiking boots and then went to Groene, an old German town on the Guadalupe River that today consists mainly of antique shops, art galleries and the oldest dance hall in Texas. We took advantage of the free samples in one of the shops and tasted all of the varieties of Texas salsa.

On Tuesday, we had our windshield fixed (see again post: Adventures with the car.) We spent the rest of the day in the park, testing out our new backpacking gear. We also took advantage of the river to take out the kayaks. We had to pass a couple of rapids (Class 1)…on foot going up the river and in the kayak coming back down. After a day of outdoor fun,we drove back to Groene on Tuesday night to listen to some live music at the Groene Dance Hall. There was a folk/country band that played a mix of classics and their own stuff. It was a good time and an interesting mix of people from cowboys to military to families and tourists.

Wednesday was an absolutely gorgeous day…we drove in to San Antonio. Our first stop was the Alamo: the most important site in the fight for Texan independence. There isn’t a lot to see today, just the remains of the old mission and some of the fortress walls, but the spirit lives on. Then we took a long walk along the Riverwalk, a beautifully developed area with hotels and restaurants and a nice long walking path. After a picnic in one of the city parks, we went to La Alameda, the Smithsonian affiliated museum on Mexican/San Antonioan culture and learned about the influence of San Antonians in the Mexican Revolution in addition to seeing some interesting Mexican-inspired art. From there we visited El Mercado, a tame version of a Mexican market and then walked back through downtown by the San Fernando cathedral and central square to our car. We drove out the Mission Trail from the Alamo to Mission Concepcion, ruins of one of the Spanish established missions. San Antonio had a great vibe. We almost forget it was a city of 1.5 million until we got stuck in a bumper to bumper traffic jam getting out of the city.

The car was in order; we had our gear; it was time to make our way to a more remote and less urban part of Texas.

Adventures with the car

Thursday, April 14th, 2011
Up to this point in the trip, we’ve been lucky and haven’t had any problems with the car. On our stop-over in Fort Worth, we got an oil change at Midas. They told us that everything checked out perfectly, not ... [Continue reading this entry]

12 Avril : il fait chaud…

Thursday, April 14th, 2011
La nuit dans le désert a été bonne : pas de bruit, température idéale (je remarque que dans le désert, la température nocturne suit une courbe linéaire : juste après le couché du soleil, la température continue a être chaude, ... [Continue reading this entry]

Austin and Johnsonville, Texas

Thursday, April 14th, 2011
April 2nd- April 3rd We made a quick overnight stop in Austin, the Texas State Capital. We got in mid-afternoon Saturday so we went down to see the enormous pink-tinted capitol building. The story behind the funding of the capitol is ... [Continue reading this entry]

Cleburne State Park (near Fort Worth)

Thursday, April 14th, 2011
March 30th – April 1st On Thursday, we woke up to a sunny, beautiful day. This is what we came to Texas for. We took advantage of the nice weather to spend a day in the park. We went for a ... [Continue reading this entry]

6 Avril : San Antonio

Thursday, April 14th, 2011
Avant de lire un peu plus sur la ville, je ne connaissais San Antonio que par le fait que le meilleur basketteur français joue là bas. Je voyais San Antonio comme une petite ville au milieu du Texas où il ... [Continue reading this entry]

Fort Worth and Dallas, Texas

Tuesday, April 12th, 2011
March 28th-March 30th The cold, rainy weather followed us south from Arkansas so we spent our first two days in Texas in a Studio 6 (an apartment version of Motel 6-nice and very reasonable.) Our first impression of Texas was the ... [Continue reading this entry]

10 – 11 Avril : trek dans les Chisos

Tuesday, April 12th, 2011
Ce dimanche matin, nous partons pour un petit trek dans 2 jours (donc une seule nuit) dans les montagnes du Chisos (cet amas volcanique qui culmine à 2400m d’altitude en plein milieu du parc de Big Bend et du désert). ... [Continue reading this entry]

9 Avril : rando et préparation pour la suite

Tuesday, April 12th, 2011
Après une nuit finalement plus fraîche que prévu, nous partons avant que le soleil ne tape pour une randonnée vers la « fenêtre » : une ouverture dans la montagne de laquelle toute l’eau (c’est-à-dire pas beaucoup) du bassin dans lequel nous nous ... [Continue reading this entry]