Finding My Fix: Chronicles of a Travel Junkie

My last day in Bangkok, I wasn’t entirely unhappy to leave. I’ll admit it. I was ready to get home. I pretty much just spent the day walking around, then sitting outside a Bon Pan at the Central shopping mall (that 7 story shopping mall), with a ceaser salad in order to wait out the rain. (Don’t worry, I did eat plenty of Thai food while I was in Bangkok!)

After that I saw Corpse Bride to which I refer in my last post about Bangkok. It did, in fact, turn out to be in English with Thai subtitles. Later I headed to try and find the American Embassy and Lumphini Park both of which I was hoping to find on my first day before I started walking in the wrong direction. Here’s the first thing I passed bearing the Seal, with the words “United States Embassy” or was it “American Embassy.” Anyway, I was surprised by what I saw. An eight-foot chain-link fence with barbed wire at the top surrounded a fifteen-foot wide mote that surrounded bright green grass lawns across which were scattered aged trees and buildings. I was amazed that the US of all places would ever have an embassy that inviting. It reminded me of the embassies I used to see in films about the first world wars. I asked myself, well if there’s no other defence (which I find very surprising), then how many mines are there spread across that lawn and in that mote?

I can only assume this is the old American embassy

But of course as I walked on past the Japanese Embassy, the Embassy of the Netherlands, and a few others, I came across a concrete fortress with prison-size windows and thick concrete walls probably reinforced by steel, and a series of heavy duty iron gates. I recognized it immediately, although this time the characteristic machine gun bearing marines were not standing menacingly oustide the gates as they often like to have them do. Still, it all made much more sense.

I walked on down Thanon Witthayu toward the park, and found it. The park was brimming with life and the deeper I walked into its interior the less I saw, smelled, or heard of the city of insanity that lay outside its walls. It was a calm in the chaos, an oasis, the Central Park of Bangkok. And it was crowded; crowded with runners and walkers, lovers, children playing, teens playing with woven balls or waiting for a concert to begin by the King Rama VI Statue, all enjoying themselves. I took a walk around, past gazebos, pruned trees, dirty canals and ponds. I watched the sunset as friendly Thais smiled at me, and I smiled back. It was a pleasent place to be, a safe place away from the concrete, where I could still see that world, but I didn’t have to taste it, I wasn’t consumed by it.

I headed back out of the park, and as I reached the entrance through which I’d come, I saw a cow-patched cat, crouched, ready to pounce. So I paused to see what she was stalking. It was another cat who looked grey in the dim light. She was hiding among some plants, obviously scared. I began to stalk the cow-patched cat. I wanted to see if I could spook her out of her vindictiveness. I stood by, and jumped toward her. She looked at me unconcerned, then back at her prey. The grey cat jumped, startled, looked at me with frightened eyes and mewed. All I’d done was spook her more. Then suddenly the cow-patched cat pounced, and batted miss grey in the face with an open paw. Strange cats!

Finally when it was dark, I went to the tailor where the bell boy had first taken me when I woke up that first morning in Bangkok. I am very embarrassed to admit that I payed $116 for two pairs of tailored pants that ended up not even fitting right, but if admitting can serve as a warning to you; I’ll gladly do it. I know I should have not taken them, and that for Thailand especially, they were grossly overpriced. I was jipped, as hard as it is to admit. But I had somehow been worn down by everything, and had lost my bargaining edge. That won’t be happening again! My advice, if you buy something tailored, don’t pay more than $20/item, US$20, NZ$20 whatever currency you use, don’t pay more than $20. Just say NO!

But anyway… I stopped off at the Central shopping mall to buy some airplane reading at the bookstore on the 7th floor. They had a fair selection for a country that technically isn’t an English speaking nation. They didn’t have Hitchiker’s Guide to the Galaxy, which I have been wishing for, but they did have a number of other options. I have to say reading was never my forte until I left for this trip. In 5 months I have read, for pleasure mind you, seven books, something that would normally take me about 3 years. Bottom line, travel changes you, in many ways. You will always be surprised.

Alright, so where did I leave off…?

My flight from Seoul on Korean Air was long, but not unbearable. It was the first of a pair of nights I would be spending on airplanes. I managed to sleep during a good portion of the flight before we came in at about 8:30 in the morning to Seoul’s Incheon Airport. I was lucky my bags were checked through to Honolulu so I was free for about 10 hours before my next flight. I decided there was absolutely no way I could spend 10 hours in Korea in uncomfortable chairs in an airport concourse; at the very least I was going to get my passport stamped.

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These photos were taken in the various parts of Bangkok I visited and happened to really enjoy seeing. The Grand Palace, for example, is of a kind of ornate beauty I have never seen before. It is just incredible, and I can’t even begin to try and describe it.
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Still in Wellington…
A pic of a manhole cover as I promised my mum I’d take one. The cover itself was too heavy to bring home.

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Here are some pictures of a city I wouldn’t mind spending the rest of my life in. And if I did, I would have plenty of work as a psychologist judging by the number of people I saw on the street who were talking to themselves… Read the rest of this entry »

Before I continue on to finish my story, write the last of it, I would like to share what it’s been like to be home.

My flight arrived in the rain and cold around 9:30 am yesterday. I have to say, if I’m asked again where in the US I’m from, which is a tough question for someone who moved so much, the most honest answer would have to be DC. We had an interesting time trying to find the garage at National (or Reagan as the newbies call it), ending up in the wrong one. I got home around 11 or so. Man was I happy to see my dog, Daisy! I soon left to search for a job. I wanted to drive since it’s been 5 months since I’ve driven (aside for about 10 minutes in New Zealand). I immediately went to the left side of the road, but after being yelled at by mum, I managed to remember not to do that again. About the fourth place I walked into asking if they were hiring for the season said, ok fill this out and we’ll get an interview in right away. He really meant right away, as when I came back he said ok lets go sit down and strike a deal. So I have a job at Papyrus that starts Monday. All I can think about is… I need to be able to fund my next trip! I live for travel now. It is absolutely an addiction!

Today I woke up around 3pm, which is about 10am in the last time zone I spent any substantial amount of my lifen in. After dinner Mum, Kristin (my step-sister) and I went to see the new Harry Potter, which I think is definitely the best of the 4, and I wouldn’t mind seeing it again at some point. When we stepped out of the theatre, everyone was gasping. The world had turned white. Enormous wet snowflakes were coming down. Talk about timing! A magic movie and magic weather the day after I return.

Tonight I drove to Rockville to visit some friends I haven’t seen since high school. It was a strange feeling being back. I had nothing to say when the topic of conversation turned to American television and later to knitting. But Australia and rugby I could discuss.

Life goes on…

I arrived home at about 10 this morning. I cried when the plane landed and I cried again when I saw Mum. I would like to say thanks New Zealand for showing me who I am, what I can be, and thanks Sydney, Bangkok and Hawaii for showing me what I want in life. I know where I’m going now I just need to find a way to get there.

I thought I would say thanks to everybody who’s actually read this blog. I’ll post the last few posts about the last few places in the next few days, but now it’s time to settle back in to my parents Virginia home for the two months I’ll be here.

If you have any questions, if you have criticism in forms more constructive than name calling, or if you just want to tell me how amazing I am (I won’t complain) then feel free to email me

aalibelo@yahoo.com

And maybe you could answer a question for me… where should I go next?

Cheers

Drea

You know what I just remembered? Why I wanted to go to New Zealand, or at least how the idea got in my head. After so many people asked me and I didn’t have an answer, I finally remembered. I was looking into work holiday visas way back when I got back from Costa Rica and had first contracted the travel bug. I was thinking… could I go to Britain for a summer through BUNAC, how bout Australia or New Zealand. I decided I’d wait till I graduated from college. But I couldn’t wait. I saw an opportunity to study in New Zealand and took it without a second thought!

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Real quick, I would like to say THANK YOU to all the people out there who for some reason still love me even though I leave them for months or even years at a time. I love you, and miss you, and am so glad I have you!

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I had dinner last night in the hotel restaurant. Normally I don’t like to do that, but I wasn’t feeling well because I hadn’t eaten. In fact, I haven’t eaten tea since my first night in Sydney with Camilla. It’s simply been too hot. So last night I had fried morning glory with rice. It was very good, but having cooked so many bland meals for myself over the past few months in order to save money on spices, I am no longer accustomed to spicy food. I’m seriously out of practice!

Also, yesterday I had to make a call to the hostel where I had been staying in Sydney, because I unfortunately accidently left my hikers, I mean hiking boots (where the hell did that come from…? Some kind of spinnoff on trainers?). Clive, that nice guy is sending me my boots! I asked him if there was a way I could pay for the shipping.

“In prayer.”

“What?”

“Prayer. That’s p-r-a-y-epsilon-roger.”

Great guy!

And today, I sit here waiting to see Corpes Bride, which I really hope has not been dubbed over in Thai. I figure I should share what hit me today. I still stand on the pollution bit, however…. I think I have discovered something wonderful about Thailand. My initial dislike for the westernization was somewhat unfounded. Yes, the culture is being dominated by western styles, western ideals of beauty and such, but Thailand holds its own. Thailand is a mixing pot of many cultures throughout Asia and the world. The Thais, from what I can gather seem to be very accepting, curious people interested in integrating other cultures into their own. In this way I am reminded of home, and Bangkok seems almost familiar, something I did not expect. As long as you can get past the blinding concrete edifices, into clearer air, you can find some wonderful things.

I was starting to suspect this when at the Grand Palace, I overheard one of the English speaking guides saying, “and this is Chinese tile with Cambodian design.” Bangkok is a cosmopolitan centre, a melting pot, and I say kudos to that, couldn’t be more pleased.

But I am still glad to be leaving, not because of any disappointment, but because I will finally be going home.

Alright, I’m back on my feet with the quickest recovery I ever made, and I think I will now provide you with the sane, fair version of what I think of Bangkok, and how it’s been so far. Thank you Coll. I agree entirely!

So yes, when I arrived, I was bloody lonely! You would be too if you were an environmentalist travelling more or less alone for 5 months in a country with a sky clearer than any you’ve ever seen, had to say goodbye to friends you made, only to arrive in a foreign, polluted city entirely alone. So excuse me if I got a bit emotional; I’m only human. My sanity does not change my distaste for the smog, however. It really is unlike anything I’ve ever seen in my life, and I wouldn’t mind if someone, myself included would take the initiative to make it go away. Personally I find it VERY disturbing to be unable to see the boundaries of clouds! This, I will never stop complaining about! And I also find it very disturbing that my own culture seems to be one of those that is taking over the rest of the world, as evidenced by the countless billboards portraying western ideals of beauty. Thailand has a lot to offer, I’m sure! I am UNBELIEVABLY grateful to have the opportunity and desire to do what I am doing. But I am not perfect.

My first day, I walked, which in hind-site after reading what the guide book says about walking around Bangkok was not the best activity for the first day. I found the tall, blank, concrete buildings in my part of town containing between them eight or so lanes of traffic, and trapped heat and fumes very uncomfortable.

The market the next day was much better.

Today I actually felt good. I had fun. I got out and explored, which happens to be my absolute favorite pasttime. The bellboy at the hotel warned me I should wear closed shoes and a shirt that covers my shoulders. Another of the employees at the hotel hailed a taxi for me to go to the Grand Palace. The driver was a very friendly man. It did take a lot for me to understand that he was demanding 40 u. for the toll onto the highway, but all was well.

“I speak English. Little bit.” He held up his fingers.

“What you call this?”

“A ticket.”

“Where you from?”

“The US.”

“Huh?”

“The US.”

“Huh?”

“America.”

“Oh! America!”

“America. England.” He alternated his hands in the air.

“They’re different?”

“Yes. England underground. America subway. Same thing.”

“Ah, yeah, different names.”

“Yes. England underground. America subway. Same thing.”

“Yeah. It’s difficult for me too.”

He dropped me off at the Palace, wished me luck on my travels, and advised me to only take meter taxis. He communicated as best he could that if I was offered a ride for a set fee, to not take it, only meter taxis. I have to say I’m greatful for is advice. As I entered the gates, I was wowed… in a good way! It was beautiful, a bit busy for my taste with all the incredibly vivid colors, but it was incredible! Humbling! Yet another thing I have never before seen! I have nothing comporable in my repertoire to describe it.

After strolling in awe through the Palace grounds, I headed off for a walk of the city, since this part of town seemed MUCH more tollerable with buildings that let in the freshest air the city has to offer. I walked down to the river, which I have to say isn’t clean either, but isn’t much more polluted than the Potomac used to be, or should I say still is. It was the cultural experience I was looking for, not the concrete jungle trying to copy and cater to the white-man. I couldn’t understand a word here; it was wonderful! I crossed the Thammasat University campus and found Khlong Lord (a street with a canal down the middle). I stopped to ask with my best sign language as an accompaniment to my English, what time it was. He held up his wrist. I nodded a thank you as they seem to do here. I could get used to that!

As I was trying to cross the street a wonderful Thai woman came up next to me and began speaking to me. I had absolutely no clue what she was saying, and I told her so in English. She kept speaking, and smiling at me, and waved to the other side of the street. I looked away, and when I looked back, she was walking into the road, and waving behind her for me to follow. She was guiding me across, and then she disappeared around the corner without looking back. I had recently discovered a trick to crossing the street, wait for a local and follow as he crosses. But this woman, showed me how to cross by myself, without a word of understanding between us. So I walked on a little more confident and actually pleased I had come to Bangkok. I walked past rows of shops, almost entirely military clothing outfitters with dozens of combat boots resting out front, and camo hanging from the cieling and walls, or stores that sold guitars, each with a young man playing.

I came across a Wat, Wat Ratchabophit I believe. It was about as grand as the Palace, and much less touristy, in fact it was almost empty. As I walked around the grounds, I saw the largest rat I have ever seen. New York can’t even compete, it was great!

As I continued to walk, came across a peacefull political demonstration blocking the sidewalk. It was mostly older people.

I asked a woman, as usual accompanied with some sign language, “what is this?”

She went through the group trying to get one of the men to speak to me and explain. The first two were shy, but the guy with the microphone came up to me and began speaking into the microphone. I didn’t entirely understand. But they quickly became very interested in me. One man offered me a scarf with whatever it was their banners said written across it. I didn’t accept though I would have liked to. I didn’t want to advertise anything political in a country where I know nothing about the politics. Some other tourists from I can only guess Japan, began taking pictures of me with the demonstrators. One woman began tugging at my shirt sleeves which I had rolled up in the heat. “This is the Department of the Interior. We want to show respect.”

“Oh! ok” I rolled them down. They continued their demonstrations and the tourists continued their picture taking and I slipped out and on my way.

I soon found a park, and as I walked over a bridge that spanned a pond coated green with algea, it occured to me that it may be hard to breathe in parts of Bangkok, but overall the city is far less smelly than New York. I figured after that, I’d do my best to hail a cab. It was wonderful to have airconditioning, and it was wonderful to be able to say I pulled myself out of my funk with the help of some very nice, very friendly Thais, and although I couldn’t stay here too long just as I couldn’t stay anywhere urban for too long, I am enjoying myself.

Almost exactly one week till I get home, get to see the people I love, and get to start planning the next trip!