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amsterdam antics

Saturday, June 13th, 2009

by a Mama, whose knee will not get better – still swollen and wound filled with pus
Amsterdam, Holland

THE MORNING: driving to Amsterdam

flat flat flat

windmills windmills windmills

 

funny road signs

crossing the Afsluitdijk, made all the more interesting by having read this article

NOON: arriving in Amsterdam

It’s probably best that Grandpa tells the story about not getting under the bridge in one piece <wink>
I’m still kicking myself for simply saying I thought the other van wouldn’t fit with the bikes on the roof (the bridge being 2.9m high, and the van being 2.75 without bikes)….and not being stroppy about it, insisting that we stop and check before proceeding, figuring Rob knew better than me as he was the one who had put the bikes up there……but it turns out he didn’t actually hear me and must have been answering something else he thought I had said……anyway, we arrived with a bang! And a bike snapped in half (among other sundry issues like ripping off part of the roof rack and loosening the handlebars of another bike….) We’re thinking of adding an accident log to our blog!

THE AFTERNOON: first explore of Amsterdam

After a series of nights costing between zero and eight euros per van, we knew Amsterdam was not going to be cheap. 15 euros our website said. Our website was wrong. Double that for one van and nearly triple it for the other. No longer would we plan on staying three days, but we’d see what we could fit in to 24 hours.
Loading up the bikes that still worked, we hit the streets. The campsite was supposedly 3km from the centre, but maybe that is as the crow flies. Good thing we’re used to walking because we covered 10km before catching a tram home (of course, the cyclists pedalled back), and we had not made it in to the very centre.

We had, however, seen quintessential canals and facaded houses and bicycles and jazz-playing musicians and people sitting in cafes and Rembrandt (well, his statue).

We had also visited a museum we had read about when we were in Estonia. The Biblical Museum. It is housed in a building built in 1660. For some reason totally unrelated to Biblical themes, the two kitchens have been left exactly as they were way back then. It is quite something to step on flagstone floors laid 350 years ago, wondering who has been there before you!

But while the huge marble sink and double oven complete with whole pig and a week’s worth of bread were of interest, the main attraction was the Bible stuff.
In the early 1600s, a theologian and minister, Leendert Schouten, began his life work of bringing the Old Testament alive for ordinary lay people. He collected an inspiring assortment of Egyptian artefacts to illustrate the time the Israelites were in slavery there – mummy wrappings, a sarcophagus, a real dead mummy, a brick most probably made by the slaves, paintings, statues. We have read extensively about Ancient Egypt, but his small collection added richness to our studies, and elicited a, “Ah I never knew they were so big” and “Look you can see the straw” about the brick.

In addition to his Egypt collection, Schouten created a scale model of the tabernacle…..even before he had completed it, thousands of people had visited to have a look, and, according to the records, were highly impressed by it. Having read this, I was expecting a magnificent masterpiece. Actually, I found it to be a bit disappointing – it was just like an oversized dolls’ house! Sure, it was interesting, and the ten minute movie that now runs with it was informative, but it lacked the WOW factor I was anticipating.

 

Solomon’s Temple didn’t though. Someone else had made that, also back in the 1600s, and gifted it to the museum, and standing over a metre tall, I found it to be more impressive (they didn’t have Lego back then and so people must have spent their spare time working with wood!)
There was also a more recent model of a worship place for Christian, Jews and Muslims, and an interesting display linking the history of these three groups.
There were amazing paintings…on walls and on ceilings, some copies, some originals.

There was an impressive collection of old Dutch Bibles, and statues of our “friends” Erasmus and Luther standing side by side. But this was not just a museum for looking at things. It was well-geared to the little set, who enjoy *doing*….where there were models placed above ground level to look at, there were steps to climb up for easy viewing, and there were all sorts of interactive displays as well…..there were “binoculars” to look through, there were books to be pulled off a shelf and when opened they turned out to be boxes containing a special piece of realia and the accompanying story (Joseph’s multi-coloured coat, for example), there were letters to be coloured like the illuminated letters in the old Bibles, there were rubbings to be made from brass pictures, there were computers with various displays, there was a very interesting-looking Greek-Dutch letter wheel, which we could not make head nor tail of, there were marble containers filled with scents and an accompanying Scripture (almond, rose, myrrh, olive oil, bitter herbs, acacia etc). There was even a garden with an assortment of plants from the Bible, again, each with a plaque giving a Scripture and description.
All in all, it served it’s purpose of being INSPIRATIONAL very well. The only complaint was that we did not have enough time to look at absolutely everything and read all the descriptions by each object. That’s high praise!

Time on the road in the vans: ?a couple of hours? 
Distance covered in the vans: ??km

Distance walked by some: 10km
Distance biked by others: 16km

Humpty Dumpty sat on a wall

Sunday, May 10th, 2009

by Rach, the ponderer
Berlin, Germany

We need to recite a few more nursery rhymes as we travel; Tgirl5, who was thoroughly familiar with the traditional version of Baa Baa Black Sheep at home, has obviously forgotten the words and now with poetic license and great flourish sings, “One for the little boy who lives down the drain.”

As for Humpty…….

It’s hard to imagine living in political bondage across the street from someone with freedom. West Berlin on one side, East Berlin on the other. And then one day the cold hard fact is made more explicit – up goes a wall. Just a wire fence actually, but it won’t be long before it is replaced by a cold hard concrete wall, an impenetrable concrete wall.

It seems strange. The wall actually surrounds the West, the free zone. Rather than being a wall to keep people in, it is expressly to keep people out – those East Germans, to be precise. But still, it imprisons inhabitants – although they do have the airport to escape from (if they have enough money). But as they have freedom, perhaps they do not wish to escape. It’s the East Germans, anyway, who were escaping. But the wall put an end to that. And those who tried were shot. Simple.

Nowadays you can follow the course of the wall for its entire 160km right through and around the city. Stones set into roads and footpaths mark the entire route in longlasting commemoration (just like the plaques you’ll see in front of some buildings, giving the names of Jews who were arrested at these addresses and who subsequently perished in concentration camps). A few sections of the wall remain, bearing witness to the events of the past, to ideologies, to a revolution won.

We climbed the observation tower, each new level reached, allowing a wider and wider view over No Man’s Land, across the wall to the other side. Did those who tried to escape realise exactly what the guards could see? How desperate were they? How frustrated at having their windows and doors boarded up, at having their lives watched in constant surveillance, at suffering events completely outside their control?

It’s twenty years since the wall came down. New commemorations are underway. In Alexander Platz a massive exhibition of posterboards displaying photos captioned in deutsch and English, with some television screens and glass-cased realia like suitcases and a teddy bear used to smuggle thousands of deutschmark  out of the East, relays the story of the wall. As you read and look at the photos, a loud chanting erupts and goosebumps appear on your arms. You can hear the passion, the fervour, the intent, even if you cannot understand the words. You look round for the source. Loud speakers high above you; it might just be a recording, but it is quite unnerving. There you are looking at photos taken right where you are standing, the tower in the photo just to your right, the building beside it, still there today. Gone are the queues of people, gone are the demonstrating hordes, but you can easily imagine what it was like. Especially with the revolutionary rabble broadcast down from above.

 

Our wall sightings and exhibition wanderings take place over a few days. We walk by, we look, we ponder and it strikes me that what is history here, is current events in other parts of the world. We have seen (and been surprised by the sheer number of) surveillance cameras in public spaces in China. We have noticed the complete absence of outward observance of any religion other than saffron-robed monks in Laos. We have talked with Cambodians afraid, but willing to fight the system they were born into. And we have not even come close to the truly persecuted.

Freedom is not yet universal.

colliding worldviews

Friday, May 1st, 2009
by the accommodation-sorter Riga, Latvia On The Bus There’s something about sitting next to a non-stop chatterbox for five hours! For a few minutes, as Tgirl5 processes observations that the rest of the world is not exactly like our family, the conversation goes ... [Continue reading this entry]

friends

Thursday, April 23rd, 2009
the day we travelled from Moscow to St Petersburg on a day train instead of sleeper so we could see the countryside – guess what – pine trees and silver birches!   “Won’t you be lonely travelling for a year?” someone ... [Continue reading this entry]

* vibrant * pulsating * electric *

Monday, March 16th, 2009
By Speedygonzales from Hong Kong to China on overnight train, heading north “Vibrant, pulsating and electric.” So said a family member of Hong Kong. Weaving through the evening crowd to the Night Market last night, it was all of the above. Fairy ... [Continue reading this entry]

Cheapskates Do The Peak

Saturday, March 14th, 2009
by Rach Hong Kong We told you the other day we’d probably make it up Victoria Peak. We also told you we’d more than likely do it on the cheap. And we did. Instead of taking the iconic cable-car, we ... [Continue reading this entry]

*magical*

Friday, March 13th, 2009

By Rach (who left her knitting at home this day) Hong Kong “It was worth lots of ice creams,” Lboy8 commented as we strolled away from the most breathtaking fireworks display. Boom after boom of colour had sprinkled and spiralled ... [Continue reading this entry]

toot toot

Tuesday, February 17th, 2009
by Rach Nanning to Guilin, China I'm not sure what the first class seats are like, because we bought "hard seats". They were nice. Soft, even. And the train hardly appeared to move, it was so smooth - although the scenery ... [Continue reading this entry]

the good the bad and the ugly

Sunday, February 8th, 2009

Halong Bay to Hanoi, Vietnam 

Check out our view last night:

Looks perfect, yes? The Mama's journal tells a different story.

"Drifted ... [Continue reading this entry]

there was an old woman who lived in a shoe…..

Thursday, February 5th, 2009
by the Mama, who remembers how much she dislikes shopping Hanoi, Vietnam "Just wait till you get to Asia and buy what you need there", we'd been advised, advice we took regarding hiking boots, which we did not want to carry ... [Continue reading this entry]