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gee-up horsie tschu tschu

Wednesday, April 15th, 2009

by Rach-the-horsewoman (ha ha) 
Orkhon, Mongolia

Day One
Approaching the horses, there is a mixture of excitement and tentativeness. City-slicker tendencies abound. How do you get on that thing anyway? What if I’m too heavy for it? What if it takes off? How will it know I’m coming up? What was that? Oh, always mount from the left side, sorry we didn’t know. And the kids need warning and reminding DON’T STAND BEHIND THE HORSE.
Everyone gets a turn at ambling round the yard once, even me. The children don’t realise I’ve been dreading this long-awaited-by-them day for the whole trip. They don’t realise I’ve only been on a horse once, as an eleven-year-old, and got hurled off sideways before even starting, resulting in a reluctance to remount, a reluctance which was indulged by the school teacher, who obviously was more concerned about getting the group underway than helping the scaredy-cat overcome any fear….and so the low grade apprehension has followed me for almost three decades. With a dozen pairs of eyes eagerly watching, certain my enthusiasm will soon match theirs, what alternative is there? And before you know it, you are actually enjoying it, and even urging the very relaxed snail’s pace horse up the manure hill and down the other side. You return victorious and can honestly agree it was as good as promised!

Day Two
Saddles and stirrups make mounting easier. Not that we know to only put toes in the stirrups. But with some sign language and Mongolian grunting we work it out! It’s surprising how quickly everyone feels comfortable. Even ER2 will walk around on her own and asks to go over the dung heap. The three eldest get trotting and one of them helps round up the goats – on horseback – at day’s end.

Day Three
A new horse is brought out. This one, Tractor, can be prodded into bone-jarring up and down jostling action. Everyone trots. Jboy13 urges him into a gallop, as does Kgirl10, even if unknowingly. We’re not exactly pros, but apparently our competence is sufficient to consider taking a ride across the steppe in a day or so. When we’d arrived this was a no-no, being non-riders-n-all. Excitement mounts.
Kgirl10 declares she’s found her next favourite thing in life. Even more than dolls or cooking. This is quite some statement!

Day Four
Repeat day three.

Day Five
Introduced to Blackie, the horse who takes no effort at all to get moving.

Day Six: The Real Ride
The anticipated day dawned clear blue. We would be allowed to take three saddled horses and another pulling a wagon out of the gates – under escort, of course; two experienced Mongolian riders and more dogs than you could shake a stick at.
Out of the gate, up the street, beside the river, under the bridge (duck duck rubber duck duck), across the shimmering green, up a small sand hill, along the road (don’t think tarmac or asphalt or concrete or even cobbled – it’s just a sandy stony rutted dirt track, but it IS the road). Not that we were bound by it. We could ride anywhere – for miles and miles was tussocky grass, mostly brown but just starting to show signs of greening. It was dotted with an occasional ger compound, a herd of goats and sheep, a handful of trees. And that was it. Just grass and mountains and us.
Oh, and some old dead-but-still-prickly gorse. How do we know about that? Because Lboy8 landed in it, face first. I avoided the prickles, but got dragged along the rocky ground for a few bumps before managing to disentangle foot from stirrup.
We had stopped to do a child-swap on horses, and instead of a little girl in the saddle in front of me, Lboy8 was hoisted up behind. Immediately the horse got jittery. Ignoring that, and in boyish eagerness, the new passenger requested that we go fast to be at the front. In responsible motherly fashion (or because I was feeling distinctly nervous at Tractor’s twitching), I suggested a few minutes of gentle trotting to get a feel for my new swaying passenger. At precisely that moment Tractor spun around and bolted. And we fell off. Simple as that. Lboy8 retreated to the wagon and I got back on. That’s what you’re supposed to do, isn’t it?
Apart from one horse stumbling, Grandpa being thrown leaping nimbly from the cart at a particularly bumpy section, and some raw chaffed legs where the stirrup straps rubbed, the rest of The Ride proceeded without incident.
We made it to the top of one of the smaller-but-made-us-puff hills in the far distance and were rewarded with sweeping vistas in all directions.
Take a look with us at the Back of Beyond:

 

 

 

 

 

 

recipes and remedies

Tuesday, April 14th, 2009

by Rachael
Orkhon, Mongolia

Food here is about nourishing the body, giving nutrients to stop you from being blown over in a gale….there’s lots of meat and fat, lots of rice and potatoes and flour in the form of bread or pasta or dumplings, and bucketloads of fresh milk and yoghurt.

Just take a look at a sampling from our week’s menu:

Breakfast

  • toast and sausage, fried egg and cucumber
  • rice porridge, steaming hot (OUR FAVOURITE)
  • toast with Mongolian “jam”
    (a mixture of sour milk, flour, oil and raisins fried together) crumbly, not jammy

Lunch

  • Hearty meat and vegetable soup – with dumplings or noodles or steamed
    dumpling-ish rolls
  • “Artz” – sour milk rice soup thickened with flour and seasoned with raisins
  • “Glass noodles”. Mongolia’s version of Asia’s fried noodles. This version is thicker and has chunks of chewy meat and potatoes for bulk, as well as the carrots, onions and peppers.

Dinner

  • Meat dumplings with fresh crunchy salad, yoghurt for dessert
  • “Horsehoes” (a bit like a mini cornish pastie) and coleslaw
    Hot garlic milk before bed
  • Pasta with meat, tomato and vegetable sauce
  • Homemade tortilla cut into strips to resemble noodles, then fried with cabbage

And the one dish everyone ate, but no-one particularly enjoyed….here’s the recipe so you can try it at home <wink>

Fry lamb’s tail in oil
Add flour and rice, mix in well
Add black tea and boil until the rice is cooked
Add copious quantities of freshly-acquired cow-juice (aka milk) and heat through
ENJOY!

And when something goes wrong healthwise, their first thought is not to reach for the medicine cabinet, but to tailor the diet….if you’ve got a cold you need to drink chopped up onions boiled in beer, a dry cough calls for honey in milk, and if you want to sleep well, boil some garlic in your evening milk (truly it worked AND cleared the sinuses too). If you’re vomitting or have the trots, make sure you tie a sash tightly around your middle (judging by Mongolian dress this must be a common problem).

“There Won’t Be A Cake Here, Will There?”

Monday, April 13th, 2009
by the Mama Orkhon, Mongolia Birthday Breakfast Under the orange-painted rafters you awoke, the glow form the firebox casting colour on your cheeks. Five years old in Mongolia.

Fortuitously for you, yesterday there had been cause for ... [Continue reading this entry]

*spring*

Sunday, April 12th, 2009
by Rach Orkhon, Mongolia Spring is supposed to be a time of new life. Here it seems that rather than filling the people with expectancy and anticipation, everyone is heaving a sigh of relief that they survived another winter. And because ... [Continue reading this entry]

authentic anak

Saturday, April 11th, 2009
by Rach Orkhon, Mongolia I was a teeny bit apprehensive about signing up for time at Anak Ranch. It might be a real working farm, but it also has a snazzy website and is supposedly set up to cater to ... [Continue reading this entry]

home on the range

Friday, April 10th, 2009

by Rachael Orkhon, Mongolia (don’t even look for it on a map! Darkhan is the closest town you’ll find) First day on the ranch (Anak Ranch, that is) and we’re in for another sensory overload, this time of a ... [Continue reading this entry]

deconstruction

Thursday, April 9th, 2009
Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia Every year or five (depending who you talk to) a ger needs to be dismantled, cleaned and reassembled. Pulling it apart takes less than an hour. Putting it back together would no doubt take a bit longer, but ... [Continue reading this entry]

*inhospitable*

Wednesday, April 8th, 2009
by both of us Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia Certainly this is a hard country to live in; from winter to summer there are wild extremes in temperature (in the region of 80-100 degrees C), hard winters kill off most vegetation, the dry spring ... [Continue reading this entry]

transitions

Tuesday, April 7th, 2009
by Rob Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia Cultural differences are sometimes easy to pick and identify, and at other times you are struck at just how similar we all are across the world despite these differences. To me, Cambodia and Vietnam were strikingly different, ... [Continue reading this entry]

blogfest coming

Tuesday, April 7th, 2009
written in Moscow on 21 April, but backdated to make sense Orkhon (which noone has heard of) to Moscow in four days. What a contrast! But you're going to have to wait for the Moscow posts....we've got two weeks of posts ... [Continue reading this entry]