Stress and nervous tension are now serious problems for all friends and families of travelers and it is in order that this situation should not be in any way exacerbated that the following facts will now be revealed in advanced: My hat, which I did in fact loose, has returned to me. Further, the direct head on colision with a small truck will merely result in the bruising of somebodys left leg.

In order that some sense of mystery should still be preserved no revelation will yet be made concerning whose left leg has been bruised. This fact may safely be made the subject of suspense since it is of no significance whatsoever.

Leaving from Tarapoto (Map) we decided that it might be a nice idea to spend a few hours on a river. Yes... a river in the jungle. PERFECT! A nice short leg of the up to the port city of Yurimaguas. But first a short drive out to Chazuta.

On the drive, rounding a corner, going up a hill, our driver didnt even have a chance to stop as another car came quickly into view. Bang.

:O Oh my god! A car accident! this is what we have all been fearing. :)

Fortunately, for me and all of you, cars in this part of the world NEVER get going fast at all.. so even a head on collision at TOP speed isnt really that big a deal. We were going about 20 when it happened. We spend 20 min bending back the frame, tying on the radiator, and presto! We are good to go.

After ariving in chazuta ( a great little town btw ) we were extreamley disapointed to learn that the trip to yurimaguas along the river would take 10 hours, and cost nearly 300USD. Damn... What about... a trip down the river to fish? 150USD.. Hmm... how about... take us a few villages down the river, just to look, then come back. 50$US. Right... well... how about drive us to the next town, for 30 min, and we will come RIGHT back. 20$. Great! Sold!

The best part of all of this was, as a result of extended negotiating, we created quite the scene down at the local port. Many people all standing around us, all wanting to help. Then the cops came to join the party. :) We met the local police cheif! How perfect. We asked him to join us on the journey, and he was more than happy to take the trip. There are some pictures.

I was also able to ask him about the safety of our planned route down the heulegga valley. "Anties, muay pellegreso, a hora? Completo seguro!". He said, before, it was dangerous, now its totally safe. Perfect!

Our trip to the next town (cant remember the name, but very small) Was enchanting. Being with the cheif let us meet almost every person in the town, and he made a presentation in the local schoolhouse about gringos, and where they live. We were quite the specticle.

Peruvians are VERY social, and happy to meet foreigners. I have a picture of me tasting the local sugarcane drink. Yuck.

Back to Chazuta.

Oh, whats that! A TAXI! waiting for us. How amazing, we expected to have to wait hours for the next one to show up. We must be blessed.

Or are we..... As it turns out, the infamous Horjey Garcia is infamous. For his extreamly shitty 83 toyotta corolla wagon, its total lack of shocks, and its top speed of about 15kph. Shudder. 3 hours later (took 1h20m in the morning) we arrived back. As we grabbed our stuff, and left the car this is what i thought.

"great, we are back"

See anything wrong with this picture? No? I will tell you.

I SHOULD have thought

"great, we are back, and i need to grab my (actually my dads) prized tilley hat our of the trunk"

So when i realized 20 min later my mistake in thinking, i was quite displeased. To say the least. ESPECIALLY given that there is a 50$US bill, and 150sol hidden in it.

I ran out to grab the first mototaxi to circle around and try to find the car. No luck. Take me to the taxi station! No luck. The bus station! Nada. Back to the hotel! zip. AHH!! just drive around! bubkis.

It was after this frienzy of driving that i explained my situation to the driver. It took a while, but he got it. He drove me back to the taxi office, and a very helpful but annoying man suggested that he knew where my car was! GREAT! what colour did you say it is? White? SHUT UP, I TOLD YOU THE CAR IS RED.

We did get a lead on a house that had a car that matched the description, and went to speak with the wife of the owner. He will be back later. Great... wait.. wait... wait.

2 hours later we go back (this time with anders and louise). As soon as anders saw the car he said. Oh damn, thats not it, our car was white.

Blink. Blink. "Are you serious?"

So as it turns out. Mr annoying with the white car was right all along. So.... we went back to see him. Do you KNOW the guy? Sure, its Horje, here is his address. Bingo!!

We zip off on the moto to his house. "oh sorry, hes on his way to Chazuta agian, and he has your hat". Well thats a good start. At least someone has SEEN my hat. Unfortnately, she believes that he will not be back till tommorow. (which is, by the way, 10 hours after we plan to leave for Juanjui)

:( I want my hat. I NEED MY HAT!!

Many phone calls, trips on motos, conversations with hotel managers, and hours later. My new friend with the moto rings to say that he has it. MY HAT HAS RETURNED!

I just have to pay its ransom with Mrs. Garcia.

10$ later. My crazy long hair is covered agian. :)

I miss you all!

more stories to come, including

*the 29 hour trip from hell, and
*why do people goto tingo maria, OH! WATERFALLS! I love them.

and if you are STILL reading this. Anders was the one with the injured leg. Here is a picture.

Miss you all

Write me comments back!

from the south,

simon