At night, we had a lightning show which had kept me awake for a while. It had been raining pretty badly as well - the rainy season has finally arrived.

Susan and I had breakfast together (fresh orange juice!) and she took off. I went to say to Robin and Marie, who were staying across the road, that I would see what the weather did, I didn't feel like walking in the pouring rain.

A bit later, Marie came to ask if I wanted to take the boat with them to the north, and walk back. There were two French people who were going as well, Marie-Lo and Quentin. So we negotiated a price and walked down with Ovidio.

The boat trip was still pretty wet, but once we got off, the weather started to clear. Marie-Lo and Quentin were going back in the boat, as they needed to get back to Copacabana, so they charged off to go sightseeing. I liked Robin and Maries leisurely pace better, stopping for photos, or just to look at the view. We walked to the southern tip, all the while being passed by locals wishing us 'buenos dias'. They are very friendly around here. One woman actually kissed Robin and wished her a happy new year!

We passed the most beautiful bays, there were great views everywhere, even the clouds were picturesque. On the way back we had lunch and I tried the pejerrey, a local white fish (kingfish), which was nice if expensive. After getting out of the village of Cha'llapampa, we started walking back south, asking the way a few times.

Marie and Robin had met travelling as well. Marie was going to stay in Bolivia for four months doing a volunteer project, Robin, who is a fysiotherapist living in New York, was travelling for five weeks. Marie is very French, from Limoges, she even has a slight Inspector Clouseau accent when speaking English. But she hasn't lived in France for ten years, spending time in Edinburgh and loads of other places.

The way back was beautiful, if breathtaking at times. Kids would stare at us, and giggle. Sometimes they would ask for photos or sweets... In Cha'lla, one kid told us we were going the wrong way but he was giggling so much, we weren't sure if he was being truthful. Turned out he was: we sat on a perfect, deserted beach with only a few colourful rowing boats for company.

It was quite a tiring walk and I was glad I only had to do one way. When we got close to the village of Yumani, a girl blocked our path, demanding sweets. She was very rude, but luckily an exception to the rule...

At the hotel, Javier told me I would have to change rooms, which he had warned me of yesterday. I asked if he was 'seguro' he had one for me, to which he smiled vaguely. I was waiting outside for half an hour with my stuff, watching other people being upset because they didn't have a private bath, or a view, or whatever. In the end he came to me and said there was no room, would I mind staying in the hostel across the road.

This was where Robin and Marie were staying and I knew it was a lot cheaper, so I talked him down in price a little, even though he didn't like it. I was a bit pissed off, if he had told me beforehand I would have just looked for another place, no problem. Anyway, in the end it turned out quite well, as I ended up spending New Year's Eve with lots of people staying there.

We went to the same place as yesterday, even though we knew it would take ages. We was: Marie, Robin, the Finnish Reetta and Kore, South African Denise and me. The waiter said it would take 30 minutes and Kore timed him. An hour and a half and two bottles of Chilean wine later, we got our soup! By that time, Dan and Lucy, English and Irish but living in Glasgow, had joined us. They had finished their meal at the hostel ages ago...

Kore had told me he had lived in Gent, then in Toulouse, and he and Reetta had picked up the habit of putting mayonaise on our chips, which Robin found revolting... We left the restaurant at about 11 and Dan taught Robin, Marie and me how to play the cardgame 'Shitface'. We went out to look at the fireworks, not terribly spectacular but still fun. I was in bed at one, it being way too cold* to be up and about...

*In addition to having no hot water, none of the places I've stayed in in Bolivia have had heating. Luckily they do have loads of blankets.