We headed out for some breakfast, finding a place called Oliver's Super Sandwiches, which has nice toasties and fresh juice. I was having some difficulties with the Hong Kong English of the girl but then, my Cantonese is pretty appalling too.

We walked via Canton road, being attacked on all sides by unfamiliar sights and smells, and loads of people trying to get from A to B at such an impossibly slow walking speed that if they had walked any slower, they'd be going backwards. We saw such familiar brands as Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Armani next to signs in Chinese characters and rabbitwarrens of little shops and foodstalls.

We got to the Star Ferry, an antique which brings you to the other side of Victoria harbour for the grand sum of 2.20 HK$ (1.70 if you go on the lower deck, but we thought we'd splash out...) Most of Central and Admiralty, where the biggest companies and the biggest highrises are, was covered in cloud and smog.

We followed the two walking tours in the Lonely Planet, admiring the modern architecture, being choked by the foul, polluted and humid air, and then suddenly surprised by the fragrance of jasmin in Chater Garden. We climbed up to Hong Kong Park and walked to St John's Cathedral, a 1847 Anglican church which the Japanese used as a country club during the war... It's also unusual in that it's the only piece of freehold land in the whole of the Hong Kong territory.

We then had lunch at Mix, a great, funky place with weirdly named sandwiches abd wraps. I had a 'Hail Caesar', Keiron a 'Beef injection' (!) and my smoothee was called a 'Guava Lava'. It was absolutely divine.

We walked to the Sheung Wang district, where we had a look at the Man Mo temple, being choked by the amount of incense inside. It is dedicated to two deities, a civil deity of literature and a military deity of war. The latter, Kwan Yu, also happens to be the patron saint of the Triads.

Although the Triads these days are regarded as some sort of Chinese mafia, historically they were patriotic and secret societies, opposed to the corrupt Qing dynasty. Unfortunately, during the civil war they descended into drugs, gambling and prostitution.

We walked down Hollywood Road, checking out the 'antiques' shops along the way, and instead of fighting our way through the crowds, took the old tram back to Statue Square. We crossed back on the choppy waters and spent some time in our shoebox room to catch up on diary duties.