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May 18, 2004

Playa del Carmen

Damn, this place is certainly hot enough for us anyway! We've been absolutely knocked for six with the sticky heat since we arrived last Wednesday.

Following all advice, we took the first bus we could out of Cancun and headed to Playa del Carmen. Like Cancun, this is also a bit of a tourist town, except that it has managed to retain a small bit of authenticity and has not yet started to charge extortionate amounts for everything.

Arriving here, just fresh from the States, there was a significant culture shock and we were immediately bombarded with taxi drivers, hagglers and many shop keepers all vying for our dollar. To add to this mayham, the main pedestrian street in the town is a dirt track and added to our "rough and ready" impression of things. We later found out that the dirt track is actually only temporary since they are paving the whole section of road with some nice brick while it is low season. It's funny how first impressions are based on so little... and it turned out later that this town has just about anything you could want! We did learn quickly enough though that there is a huge difference between the tourist zone and the local areas and found that the price of things can almost half if you're willing to go a few blocks down the road.

When we arrived in Playa on Wednsday we hadn't thought to arrange any place to stay, so this was our first pressing issue to organize. The few places that we tried out of our "Footprints Handbook to Central America and Mexico" guidebook were all closed (maybe because of the time of day), so we ended up taking a more local place, called "Posada Concita Maria". Nate did a good job of talking the price down and we ended up getting a reasonable but basic room for about $15 USD a night. Even though this place was perfectly fine, three days later we decided to splash out for a slightly more upmarket lodging (i.e. ~$25 USD a night) called "Casa Tucan" which was recommended by the guidebook. The added bonus of a pool and easy access to laundry services and the bus station has completely paid for itself by this stage.

We've been passing most of the days by going out in short stints (usually to the shops, the beach or a restaurant - and almost inevitably followed by a siesta). After five days in Mexico during the hottest time of the year, we at long last started to acclimatize a bit and we ventured out to see some of the surrounding areas. The Mayan ruins of Tulum are less than an hour away and were without a doubt worth the trip (not only to see the ruins themselves but the iguanas and surrounding wildlife and to also get acquainted with the 'collectivo', which is basically a shared taxi and common mode of transport around plenty of developing countries). Now we're able to handle the heat a wee bit better (admittedly still keeping a cautious distance from the sun), but we're still hiding indoors during those hours around midday as it's unbearable to even contemplate doing anything about this time.

During the time at "Casa Tucan" we also got to meet a really sound pair of Grad school guys, called Cameron and Dave, who are down here from Florida to do research (how cool is that, to land a research trip to the caribbean?). They've been able to give us the inside track on what this town's about and also point us in the direction of some of the best places to grab a bite to eat. It'd be great to catch up with these dudes next month when we'll be in Florida ourselves!

Presently, we're attempting to work out a viable route from here through to Belize and then on to Honduras. We want to reach the Bay Islands in Honduras within the next week hopefully so we can do some diving. Time seems to move at a different pace in this part of the world, so it's difficult to estimate how long it would honestly take. It'll surely be an adventure making the effort to get there so we'll see how we get on over the next few days with that plan.

** VERSION EN ESPAÑOL **

Madre mía! Aquí hace un calor impresionante! Desde que llegamos el miércoles que hemos estado derrotados por el bochorno.

Al salir del avión en el aeropuerto de Cancun, recién llegaditos de Nueva York, nos encontramos con el primer choque cultural: taxistas, guías turísticos y todo tipo de gente presionándonos para que compráramos aquello que nos ofrecían. Nosotros pusimos cara de saber donde íbamos e ignoramos sus ofertas (que obviamente eran a precio de turista).

Siguiendo el consejo de amigos y el de la guía que tenemos para América Central ("Footprints Handbook to Central America and Mexico") cogimos un autobús desde el centro de Cancun ciudad hacia Playa del Carmen.

Este antiguo pueblecito de pescadores se ha convertido en una zona un tanto turística aunque todavía mantiene un poco de su autenticidad y los precios no son excesivos (sobre todo si te alejas de la calle principal).

Cuando nos bajamos del autobús nos encontramos con un camino de tierra que nos hizo pensar que estábamos en una aldea no muy desarrollada. Más tarde descubrimos que ese camino de tierra era temporal y que estaban preparando la calle para convertirla en un paseo antes de que llegue la temporada alta... (para que luego digan que las primeras impresiones son las que cuentan!)
Lo primero que hicimos al llegar a Playa (así lo llaman los del pueblo) fue buscar alojamiento. Buscamos el nombre de algunas posadas en la guía y fuimos a ver como eran pero estaban cerradas (era mediodía). Al final encontramos una posada y regateando con la dueña conseguí que nos reducieran el precio de la habitación de 21€ a 11€ (una ganga!). El cuarto estaba limpio y tenía baño propio.

Hace tres días decidimos cambiarnos a una posada (Casa Tucan). Ésta cuenta con acceso a piscina y lavandería por el mero precio de 20€ la habitación con baño. (ventilador, toallas y jabón son la norma si pagas más de 10€)

En la posada hemos conocido a un par de chicos de Florida, David y Cameron que están aquí haciendo un estudio sobre crecimiento turístico. (De investigación en el Caribe... mmm... Quien tuviera un trabajo así!) Son muy buena gente. Nos lo han explicado todo sobre este pueblo: historia, cultura maya, lugares para ir a comer, etc... Será genial si nos encontramos con ellos cuando estemos en Miami el mes que viene!

Nos hemos pasado los días haciendo salidas cortas (al super, la playa o al restaurante) e inevitablemente iban seguidas por una siesta. Después de cinco días en Mexico, en la época más calurosa de todo el año, al final conseguimos aclimatarnos. Así que nos fuimos de excursión a Tulum (una aldea con ruinas mayas que está a una hora de Playa) y fue genial. Vimos ruinas, iguanas y la flora y fauna de la zona. Volvimos a la posada en un colectivo (un modo de transporte bastante común por aquí que consiste básicamente en un taxi grande que va recogiendo a gente como si fuera un autobús [1.5€]).

Se puede decir que ahora ya estamos más acostumbrados al calor todo y que debemos admitir que durante las horas de más calor no salimos ya que no se puede hacer nada bajo este sol ardiente.

En este momento estamos intentando averiguar una ruta para llegar a Belice y más adelante a Honduras para hacer submarinismo por allí.
El tiempo pasa a un ritmo diferente por esta parte del mundo por lo que es muy difícil saber realmente cuanto tardaremos en llegar. Será toda una aventura así que ya veremos como nos sale el plan.


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Nate_at_Tulum.JPG

Posted by Kevin on May 18, 2004 05:04 PM
Category: 02 Mexico + C. America
Comments

hey guys,

we have made it to the big time... published on your site!

hope all is well, and i look forward to having you in orlando.

dave and i are in merida... and all is well.

see you shortly,
-cam

Posted by: cameron on May 21, 2004 02:27 AM
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