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More Obsessions

Sunday, April 1st, 2007

OK maybe these are more like passions.  The Argentinians are passionate to the point of obsessive… there that says it all.  My last night in El Calafate I ate at a real asado restaurant.  Where’s the beef?  Ha… where’s the green vegetables is more like it.  How can a country be healthy with so little vegetables a vegetarian might ask.  Well my guess is that beef is not so bad for you IF you get plenty of exercise (not the stairmaster and treadmill kind), drink plenty of coffee and mate, and you get plenty of ice cream.  So I have the choice of flank steak and strip rib.  I was perplexed a little by the strip rib since I did not want ribs so I ordered the flank.  Now I understand the two.  First, the flank steak is a nice fatty piece of meat.  Second, the strip rib is a really thick cut of BEEF.  While I was waiting for mine, other tables received these heaping hot plates (coals are under the metal plate so I mean really HOT) of meats.  They had obviously ordered the multi-person, multi-meat offering which included lamb and sausages as well as the beef.  My salad arrived and it was enough for 2-3 people.  I stopped eating it to stay fit enough for the cow.  I was happy that the restaurant offered vegetables – a real treat here – and I ordered both kinds – mashed potatoes and pumpkin.  Yes, you can find asparagus and other green vegetables, but an asado does not bother with such side plates when the stomach needs room for beef.  And then my hot plate arrived with a tiny steak of about 24-32 ounces (I decided to go imperial with this measurement instead of going with metric lest you misunderstand the enormity of the slab placed in front of me).  I don’t eat a lot of red meat and an eight ounce steak is usually good for me.  I cut into part of the steak while the rest continued to cook on the plate and put a piece of the rich, fatty substance in my mouth.  This stuff could fix any vegetarian for good.  I drank my wine and ate beef.  And then drank more wine and ate more beef.  I tried to stop, but the obsession got hold of me.  I ate almost all of it.  And I am still alive to tell. 

[read on]

Buenos Aires Growing on Me

Saturday, March 31st, 2007

Usually things just work out for the best.  The rain today which fell in bucketloads for twelve hours straight was a good thing.  I went to the MALBA museum which has Latin American art.  The place was packed with Argentinians and some tourists.  They came for the opening of the David Lachapelle exhibition.  Who is Mr Lachapelle?  I didn’t think I knew, but when I saw his art it all became clear.  He is an American photographer who has been doing wild stuff for a few years.  You can look him up.  He also does music videos I guess as the director and art designer.  They had huge prints of his photographs (examples – Pamela Anderson basically nude in a spray on tanning booth and the nozzles are spraying a brown goop on her body and Naomi Campbell totally nude laid out on a table with breakfast fixings) and were playing a half dozen of his videos (Christina Aguilera, Macy Gray, Moby, Elton John, etc.) playing in a small theatre.  I laughed heartily at each photo.  Most people were taking them very seriously.  I flashed back to the Botero museum in Bogota where I was laughing and everyone else was so serious.  If you can’t laugh at fun art, you probably should not be there.  I know Botero and Lachapelle would want it that way and, no, I don’t know either of them.  I ate lunch in the museum’s cafe and enjoyed a delicious, serious meal with a glass of nice and also serious red wine.  Maybe the people taking Lachapelle seriously should have had that glass of wine before touring.

[read on]

Obsessive Argentina

Friday, March 30th, 2007
I'm starting to fall in love with Argentina.  It was a struggle at first coming to Buenos Aires from Peru, but the people are warm and so hospitable.  And the women so beautiful!  After getting out of the city, I ... [Continue reading this entry]

Blue for You

Friday, March 30th, 2007
I wish these photos could do justice for the beauty of the glacier ice, but there is no way to truly capture it.  I wish I could put the original photos online, but technology doesn't make that practical so I ... [Continue reading this entry]

Uruguay – Rain’s Not Going Away

Friday, March 30th, 2007
I was suppose to be headed to Uruguay right about now.  I planned to get out of Buenos Aires for the day and go to Colonia, Uruguay just across the river via highspeed hydrofoil.  Just a 50 minute ride.  But ... [Continue reading this entry]

Last Leg

Thursday, March 29th, 2007
What I am trying to do is quite complicated.  I can tell you that it is the most complex thing I have ever done.  The logistics are difficult.  How to piece together the whole world in some meaningful and workable ... [Continue reading this entry]

Treading on Thick Ice

Thursday, March 29th, 2007
Last Saturday I flew from Ushuaia to El Calafate.  I was going to the real Patagonia and I planned to head north via bus on Ruta 40 after spending three days in El Calafate.  I planned to stop in El ... [Continue reading this entry]

Monday is a Holiday

Thursday, March 29th, 2007
What holiday?  Well, here in Argentina where we appear to be living in the past... way past... at times, it is the annual celebration of the Falkland Islands War.  In fact, it is the 25th anniversary.  Unbeknownst to me, next ... [Continue reading this entry]

Activities at the End of the World

Saturday, March 24th, 2007

I had three full days in Ushuaia. The first day included a drive through the surrounding glacial valleys and forests to Estancia Haberton where we then took a short boat ride on the Beagle Channel to an island with ... [Continue reading this entry]

Yerba Mate

Saturday, March 24th, 2007
When I was walking around a market in Buenos Aires, I noticed that the hippies were selling a decorative bowl made out of wood with an object that looked like a pipe made out of metal along with their jewelry ... [Continue reading this entry]