my first leap

I’m in love. His name is Jung Woo-Sung (the first guy in the picture). I first saw him in ‘Daisy‘, a Korean film on the plane to Taiwan and today saw him again in ‘A Moment to Remember’. So I’m crazy about a guy, who is a figment of someone’s imagination – I just love his character in both films. Girls, you must watch these two films. He’s so oh-my-god. Hollywood is going to do a remake of ‘Daisy’ like it has with ‘Il Mare’, another favourite film of mine. I’ve been indoors almost all day today watching films: ‘Three Times’ and ‘Cafe Lumiere’. Ling showed me her boss’s (Hou Hsiao Hsien) collection of films since the 1980s to go through if I have time.

I’m trying to distract myself. I’ve come to the conclusion that though I did have prickly heat, what I have now may be an allergic reaction – quite a big one. When you have sensitive skin like mine, when something crazy happens to your skin and you feel like the elephant man. It’s like being jilted by someone you love. Initially, you ignore there’s anything wrong. But as it gets worse; and your love leaves unexpectedly or tells you that they simply do not love you anymore without any explanation; you can’t ignore it any more. Your first initial knee jerk reaction is to try to save it with quick fixes, just grabbing any possible remedy or weapon you can find and pouring desperately on it in the hope that it will make it better. But this only aggravates. It doesn’t help; it makes it worse. It makes you feel even worse and the situation becomes a point of no return. Then you try to take it all back; rid the situation of your quick fixes in your desperate attempt to make things go back to the way it was. But what has been done has been done. It’s too late. Then you’re in shock. You don’t know why this has happened. You think of all the little things that may have caused this. The pain won’t go. You just don’t know the reason why. You can’t eat or sleep. You can’t stop thinking about it;  you mull over it; you keep concentrating on it because now the pain is so much, you want to distract yourself but you can’t. You feel like you’ve got leprosy and you try to hide your pain (discomfort) from all around you. You can’t sleep so you walk the streets. My sensitive skin. So I walk the streets all covered up. Like all pains in love; everything heals in time. My sensitive skin, I believe you will heal. And like a new love, I promise to be more watchful and attentative in future.

Seb has suggested we change our travelling plans, maybe cut out Laos and Thailand. Still go to Vietnam but instead travel up to Hanoi, into China, go west of China, try to get into to Tibet and Nepal or if not able to, go towards North China, even Mongolia. Just ideas to avoid the humidity. Still exciting. We’ll see.

***

If there was nothing wrong in the world there wouldn’t be anything for us to do. – George Bernard Shaw. Irish literary Critic, Playwright and Essayist. 1925 Nobel Prize for Literature, 1856–1950

I love Taiwan though my skin seems to have a distinct dislike to you. Your people are friendly and open to new cultures and ideas. I love how you embrace the Japanese culture with it’s fresh fish and polite ways; and how you’re willing to explore other Asian countries like Korea and China (of course); you’re also open to Western influences as well. I will definitely come back to see you because of you, I have great friends here. My friends in Taipei lead such busy lives, sometimes working up to 12 hours and yet they still have time to talk to me, help me with things I need to get or do; they’ve been more than saintly, thank you Taiwan! I love you!

Today, with a map Ling gave me, I found Dihua St. Mum would love this parallel row of shops full of anything and everything you can dry; fruit, sweets, fish, herbs, teas, medicine, roots, edible plants, things I don’t recognise etc. And everything can be bought in bulk or your desired weight. I saw a dried piece of squid half my size. Along the way on Minsheng W. Rd from Shuanglian MRT station, I saw a crab twice the size of my head! I found Ningxia Rd on the way to Dihua St; a street full of small food stalls (opens 5.30pm-12am) catering for desserts, sashimi, seafood, all types of foods – quite amazing.

Ling has been back late almost every night and when she does, we watch her favourite Japanese TV drama called ‘Slow Dance’ where you’re never sure who is going to be with whom and as Ling said, the title tells you it’s a slow process finding out but according to her it’s very addictive. The programme is in Japanese with Chinese subtitles. Interesting for me. But somehow, the subtitles seem easier to read so I’m either getting better or the programme purposely keep it simple. So every couple of minutes when I concentrate, I get to know what’s going on and facial expressions and actions are great because they give you an idea what’s going as well.

Ling hopes that I can join her on a music video shoot on Monday in Danshui, right at the end of the MRT line and where I’d finally get to see the river Sophia and I desperately searched for but couldn’t find (concrete highways blocked the way). She tells me that it couldn’t done earlier because of Typhoon Ewiniar on the Southern tip of Taiwan and going towards Japan!

Prickly heat rashes do not disappear entirely it seems. They deceptively disappear for an evening and then when it suddenly gets a little hot, the bumps come back with a vengence so my arms and legs look a dry pasty white (calamine lotion – well, the one I have does this) so half of me looks like some pimply teenage white alien with a really bad skin. Trying to moisturize this area is not a good idea either. It just irritates. One good thing about this dried white calamine lotion is you can’t see the blistering redness underneath. So either be red and painfully blistered or a white dried alien in need of serious moisturizing. I choose dry white. But I wonder if the dryness adds to the itchiness? From experience, dryness irritates, from this experience, moisture irritates. Man! I just can’t win! My body, my skin to be precise, can you hear me? Please tell me what you want. Yes, I know, air-conditioned rooms, I know, no sun, no heat, I know you’re telling me this by being the way you are right now. But please work with me here, please. You are so irritating! Sorry, irritated, yes, irritated. I know it’s not ideal and I’m doing my best. Even now you need attention from me. Let’s work together, okay? Okay. So in the end, finding no dress long enough to cover my alien body, I didn’t go to The Drummer theatre show today. To deal with this heat; I went and bought a large man’s shirt made of breathable UV protected, light material, and fast dry fabric; two sports t-shirts with same qualities. The shirt was a better idea because it’s big allowing air to circulate and it covers arms so no need for sun cream or mosquitoe repellent if you want to avoid intoxicating your skin. With irritated arms, I’m trying to avoid putting lashings of any cream and spraying repellent on it. It’s no fun for you or people around you when your body requires so much attention from you. To deal with the heat and humidity here, people jump in and out of air-conditioned shops. I’m positive that my body will climatise soon; please body you, soon okay please?

I predict that with global warming and countries becoming more developed and crowded, soon we will live in an underground of air-conditioned walkways, with bits of exposed areas where the sun and heat poke in; basically larger areas of extended underground stations. And the outside, upper area will be used for activities requiring the sun and heat. In Taipei already, connected to their MRT stations, are shopping malls underground, where you can walk through underground and their are up to 17 (here in Zhongxiao Fuxing) exit points. So you can travel quite a distance without seeing the sun. Especially here, where the fashion is pale white skin which means sooner or later, everything can be got to underground. I can see this happening in Taiwan and HK, small islands. Just a thought.

Plastic bags are charged at $1 to discourage the wasteful use of plastic to protect the environment. And the Taiwanese must purchase (Trash fee) special trash bags to put their rubbish. Recyclables are collected for free to encourage people to separate the reusable from their rubbish. Ling showed me her collection that’s acculumating in her place.

There I will end today; on a serious rubbish note.

***

To Tobias: Thanks for sending me the changes to the Silent Witness times:

Cargo

Part 1  [Sunday 16th July 2006, 9pm, BBC ONE]
Part 2 [Monday 17th July 2006, 9pm, BBC ONE] 

To Emma: Okay, I’m just a perverted minx! That’s what you wanted to hear? If yes, then so be it. If not, then I’m not. It’s funny how people believe my blog is me. In fact, it’s very much a persona. My purpose is to write down things I want to remember but also I know people might be reading so I entertain. People love a little drama, a little emotion, a little tantalising hook, but in an extreme way. Am I jesting with you, or not? Maybe. Maybe not.

To Litt’ Sis: Thanks. Mum is lovely. Mum loves me. I love mummy. I love my mum. I wish I can tell her to her face one day. In the Chinese way, next time I see her; I will offer her food.

***

It is not easy to find happiness in ourselves, and it is not possible to find it elsewhere. – Agnes Repplier. American Essayist and Writer, She is known for her collections of scholarly essays in Compromises (1904). 1858–1950

I’m back at the same internet cafe on Zhongxiao Dong Rd, a block on your right from Royal Palace Hotel. I now can say how many hours I want to go on for. They ask if I want smoking and I can respond with a ‘no’. And I’ve noticed that when it gets late, they always ask for some sort of ID; here and near Taipower Building station.

I feel a bit shitty. And it’s all my fault. I finally got through to my mum and I was so horrible: like it was her fault that it’s so hot and humid here; that it’s her fault some woman was getting impatient with me and was tapping her feet waiting for me to finish; that I suddenly have a complex about being so fat; that she wants to do something complicated that involves my sister putting some money in my account for me to take out and give to my relatives in Vietnam; that she only wanted me to call to help so if I wanted to meet up with my brother Pete’s girlfriend’s family, I could. And here I was being so rotten to my mum and now I feel rotten. What’s wrong with me? I already know I’m going to call back after this.

I’m not fat. I’m size 10 (UK) but being here I might as well be a size 28 extra extra large! And it’s not that, I look around and everyone seems so oblivious to the heat or they’re very good at looking really cool about it. And I can’t see insect bites on the flesh of these people – girls more so because they show more flesh because they’re thin and look good with lots of flesh showing and of course, why wouldn’t they?! It’s like they’re immune or something and it makes me feel so very oh-man-what’s-wrong-with-me. I believe if I stay here long enough, I will end up thin. I’m a 27 inches waist. Here, that’s seen as fat and normal is 23 inches, I’ve been told. 23 inches is like a size 4 (UK, smaller than a size 6)! Enough of venom and exasperation.

I’m going to get kicked off again very soon. I’m going to call my mum to apologise. 

***

We must not allow other people’s limited perceptions to define us – Virginia Satir. American Phychologist and Educator, 1916-1988

Yesterday night I packed all my crap into my backpack and waited for Ling and her big orange car (which I didn’t see at first – Ling was shocked and my reassurance that I’m not that blind and that I was daydreaming did not wash down; I don’t think she believes me).

Ling drove me back to her place but before we went upstairs, we stopped by at her favourite juice store. There, I found out I can combine fruits to make the most unbelievable flavours. One of her favourites which I tried was the mixture of mango, guava, milk and pudding. Heavenly, sweet but without the sugar (I’ve been told). I asked her about this pudding but after a minute of explanation, I gather only it’s a type of pudding that’s pronounced in Mandarin ‘buding’ (like pudding but with a ‘b’); she tried to show me it in its physical form but she explained after searching that the owner probably put it in the fridge to keep cool so I left it at that – the mysterious Taiwanese pudding. She had another combination of kiwi and pineapple – just as yummy. She then took me to her local comic store where she borrows comics and novels and the like, like a library but not a library; you pay a tiny amount of a couple of dollars for each comic and when you’ve finished you take it back – there is a due date and you’re fined if you go over – Ling had to that’s how I know.

Ling’s place is a spacious bedsit with a bathroom. My things have invaded a little corner of the bed and my aim til I leave is to get rid of as much stuff as I can. Today, looking at Taipei’s Metro System map (MRT) that I’ve managed to live in the near (not far end) east of the metro (Zhongxiao Fuxing), the near west (Ximen) and the near south (Taipower Building). I moved in – though Yating kindly offered for me to stay until they move in next weekend – so I can attack Ling’s DVD collection (she put aside ‘Three Times’, ‘Cafe Lumiere’ and her showreel for me to watch) and the Blockbuster store nearby.

I got out late this morning and found a Sushi Express near the MRT – total heaven! I’m addicted to raw fish or you can argue I’m addicted to wasabi – not the same without wasabi and lots of it! I quite like Sushi Express because you face the plates of sushi going around on a belt so it’s kind of okay if you’re on your own; outdoor stalls are the same. I ask for miso soup this time; they don’t understand English; and I found out it’s simply ‘soup’ in Mandarin which I know how to say.

Ling had given instructions, after helping me ring around to find out where to find malaria tablets (thanks Ling), on how to find the largest chemist in Taipei called Shanghai Chemist. She had marked it out on a map and I left it by accident at Sushi Express! Luckily I remember the nearest MRT station – Ximen and the road it was on. When I got there I wandered about, no one seems to know where this chemist was; I was beginning to think that it didn’t exist and that somehow I didn’t hear Ling properly or I’m not saying it right. Finally, I asked a man at a small pharmacy and he directed me – competitor know-how I guess. I can understand directions but like when it’s said in English, I’m lost by the fourth direction so I keep asking and getting lots of practise. I find the road and then I find the chemist. I go to this older woman and ask her if she spoke English. She looks around and shakes her head. She asks me to write it. So I write it. She doesn’t know. I explain in my best Mandarin and lots of hand signals showing my insect bites. She runs to get some insect cream; I say no. I explain that I’ll be going to Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia etc. I don’t think I made sense but she got it. She came back with Lariam (Mefloquine), the one I’ve heard bad things about. I ask her if she has others. She comes back with another which I’ve not heard of; I open the box and read the detailed instructions which were luckily in English and it’s what is given if you’re suspected of suffering from malaria. She’s been so helpful but I didn’t want Lariam so I explained I’m looking for Malarone (a combination of Atovaquone 250mg and Proguanil 100mg); it’s more expensive than Mefloquine I say but doesn’t have the side affects of Mefloquine – one of which I know I’m prone to and that is you become more sensitive to the sun and heat (what the nurse said at my GP). I explain this to the lady. I manage to put it simply as the one I’m looking for is very expensive and it’s good. The one there (I point) is not good, and not good for going into the sun. She nodded; she knew; she understood. I told the lady I’d think about it. I’m going to see if there’s another solution.

Back in Zhongxiao Fuxing, I try to find the Post Office. Again asking lots of people; I understand straight ahead and then right or left but if they mention other things that just confuse me so I walk straight and then right or left then ask again. Once, I felt really good when I recognise what the boy told me; about passing a park (I know the word) and I was very pleased with myself. Asking someone directions can be upsetting I feel; in China, any woman I’d call her ‘sister’ and they seem pleased because I guess they think I believe they’re young-looking. I called a bunch of young boys ‘young brother’ and they seem okay about it, though I’m not sure if that’s right. I will ask Ling later. Once I found the Post Office (the front is green and has banking facilities), I saw a desk with some wrapping paper and tape; I asked the woman sitting closest to me in Mandarin if it was okay for me to use. She said yes and I used it; wrapping my stuff very quickly dreading someone tapping me on the shoulder and asking me why I was using their stuff. No one did. I went to the counter and told the woman I’d like to send it to UK and asked her for snail mail, the slowest I said. I had already sent back my diving book near Yating’s place and the slowest was 2 months. In Australia, the slowest is 4 months, just right, my other diving book will get back the same time I get back, that’s okay with me.

I tried to track down the public library near Ling’s place, which offers free internet (Ling told me); it’s on the 8th floor above a fire station. I found it in the end. The only people who seems to know it exists are the teenagers. The internet is free (4 computers) but after 30 mins, if there is someone waiting, you will be kicked off and the computers are a little slower than in internet cafes but hey, it’s free. I used it and after sending 2 emails I was kicked off. So I am in an internet cafe. And the only people who know where internet cafes are the teenagers. Playing games via the net is very very popular here. Internet prices tend to range from $40-$100 depending how cool your computer (it’s $60 and the screens are flat screen) and cubicle/facilities look ($40 gets you a row of computers with no separation; $60 gets you a cool modern cubicle all to yourself, lots of space and a phone; naturally, the atmosphere of both are way different. Here there’s the club vibe with rap music blasting away in the background. Most are the same in terms of speed and accessibility. Sometimes you just don’t have a choice.

Now, I’m going to find out how to ring home the easiest way possible. Out to the moisture-laden streets again.

***

Hi Olga!

***

Photo $5.99 (92 x 115 in)

If I had to live my life again, I’d make the same mistakes, only sooner. – Tallulah Bankhead. American Actress, 1903–1968

Though it felt a bit strange being in Yating’s new very modern apartment without Sophia, there are benefits of having the place to yourself. One of which is you have the keys so you don’t need to coordinate your whereabouts; two – for me – because I’m on my own, my brain comes back from vacation so I become an efficient working human being again; three, I get to walk around and sleep naked, that’s how hot it is here. Anyone who knows me knows it’s hard to get me naked in bed when there’s the potential fire hazards that exist and you need to be ready to jump out of the window and not worry about being starkers; and lastly, being a working human being again, I get to learn again. Being on my own is great. I’m learning so much more. I see more, I interact more (that’s necessary when you need something and no one is there to do it for you) and it seeps in more (brain department is present to facilitate).

The great thing about Taiwanese people; one, they’re really friendly (much more friendly than Mainland China people, unless they speak Cantonese – because I do – or they’re you’re relatives) and are always ready to have a chat with you (us foreign people) seeing it as an opportunity for them to practice their English and you, your Mandarin; two, when I ask something in Mandarin, I love how they repeat what I say so I can see where to correct myself next time eg the word dian (a shop or store) can turn into something else just by the tones you use. Today I asked for the largest book store (Eslite Bookstore – near 101 Tower and Taipei Main Station) in Mandarin. And because of my tone I was saying dian with the first tone and not the last, people didn’t understand me. It was when the person repeated it but in the right tone that I realised my mistake. Now I know. So in Eslite Bookstore, with it’s English books and Chinese books (and a whole section dedicated to books written in Simplied Chinese), I bought myself the tiniest book ever (2 inches by 3 inches) ‘Pinyin Chinese-English Dictionary’. I find this really useful in Taipei where most road signs and stations can be seen in pinyin as well.

Yesterday Ling wrote down a few places I can visit. She had read my blog and told me where I can find dresses at the Woo Fen Pou Market (nearest to Houshanpi MRT station); this was also a location where ‘3 Times’ was filmed. So I traipsed around; nothing is going to fit me but hey, it’s an interesting place with stall/stores galore. I found Sushi Express and had lunch on my lonesome; I like being on my own and I like Sashimi – two great combinations. I had sashimi which is so cheap here (you get 8 times as much compared to the UK in terms of portions). My friends and I joke that sashimi (which is done well in Taiwan) is so cheap that I should eat lots and pretend I’m in Japan; then when I get to Japan I should pretend I’m in China and have noodle soup (in Japan it’ll probably be instant noodle soup)! 

I got myself an Easycard today which is the Taipei equivalent to an Oyster card (UK) or Octopus card (HK). You put $500 in and you just bleep it against the machines and you can go. The Octopus card from HK is much more advanced; you can buy food and drinks from 7-11 with it.

I bought some insect repellent patches (natural ingredients) today that smell like lemongrass – I looooovee that smell. Right this minute, I’ve stuck one on the underside of my trousers, one on my bra and one (it lost it’s stickiness because I couldn’t make up my mind where to put it) in the open pocket of my tiny backpack. Coupled with natural ‘OFF!’ sprayed on exposed flesh, I haven’t got bitten at all today. This is after a couple of days of being munched by insects so pretty happy that I can smell lemongrass all day and the smell is keeping the sucking suckers away. My prickly heat rash is gone and is less irritable because of the calamine lotion.

So all is good on the health front, especially now I can say ‘no sugar, no ice’ every time I order a drink. The vendors tend to add sugar and after having fruit juices today the natural way, I can see why. Natural fruits are not always sweet, or as sweet as you’d like. I’m learning how to ask for my favourite fruits juices now; I can ask for kiwi, mango, guava, orange; the rest, I say ‘that one’ in Mandarin and point – it does the trick. My pronunciation must be getting better because I find when I ask something, people say more than I expect them to say and then I have to say I don’t understand in Mandarin which I also say very well with all the repeating. In terms of food, today has been a fruit and fish day, pretty healthy day I’d say. 

There are toilets in every MRT station; clean, modern (has Western toilet as an extra option) and well-looked after (always have paper and soap). You get a choice, the Western toilet and the crouch-over-a-hole-surrounded-by-ceramic-tiles variety. Before my month-long trip to South China in February it was weird having to do your business in the crouch position but now, I prefer to go to the crouch-down toilets and I do. I’ll tell you why. When it’s hot and humid and people are sweaty and sticky; and no matter how clean the public toilets are, I prefer not to put my butt where other sticky butts have been. With the crouch-down toilet, as long as your trouser ends don’t sweep the floor area (so hike them up before you enter), the only thing that touches anything are your shoes. Some crouch-down toilets have the flush high up – I don’t like them. Most that I’ve seen the flush is near the floor so again you use your feet. In more rural areas the crouch-down toilets are the only options and when they’re not looked after, they can make you puke but I’m talking about good-looking well-kept toilets here and I still believe the crouch-down toilets are more hygienic.

On the me front, one potato I have received here is one concerning my health and for me to decide once and for all what I want and really go for it. Another potato is my realisation that though I’m becoming more self-aware and still learning and looking inwards whilst travelling; I know very little about the world, and that there is a lot of external data out there that do not affect me directly right now but is still important to be aware of. I need to know more about other stuff, especially stuff I’m not particularly interested in. I need to be a more rounded person and I think I’m on the path, even if it’s at the beginning. It was cool to watch Xmen 3 and recognise the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco and watch Superman Returns and know what Lex Luthor was on about when he spoke of the brilliant Redwood trees and the story of Prometheus, the Greek Titan, stealing fire (symbol of power) from the Gods to give to the people and was chained to a rock by Zeus as a punishment. I realised that some potatoes seem more important because it affects you directly; though with direct potatoes you can choose to ignore it, like indirect potatoes. It seems I’m more concerned with direct impact external stimili. Other external stimili that doesn’t impact me so directly, I’m not as aware of and I need to be. To conclude; some changes are needed in my life otherwise it’s just useless data I’m writing down here.

Over and out.

***

To Amy: Thank family for responding : )

Photo $5.99 (93 x 115 in)

Find out who you are and do it on purpose. – Dolly Parton. Popular American country Singer and Actress, b.1946

Back in the internet cafe on Shida Road, near Taipower Building Station. The only difference is tonight, there will be no Sophia to greet me when I arrive at Yating’s place. While I’m on the internet, she makes phone calls. Tonight, I know I can stay here all morning if I wanted to whereas before I know she would worry if I didn’t get back within the hour or so. She told me the first night, when I said an hour and stayed an extra hour, she saw a store nearby close for the night (Shida Night Market – people are still up in the grey ambiguous hour of night/morning) and then open again while I was away. I don’t know, within two hours?! Yating is cool with me staying here another night. And Ling is ready for me to go to her place (original plan) tomorrow night. Yating and Ling have been so very good to me and Sophia, so helpful, so organised, so full of information; they’re pretty amazing friends.

This afternoon after spending my last few hours with Sophia; I found a chemist (we’ve been trying to find calamine lotion in Watsons and convenience stores with no luck) I said to them in my best Mandarin that I wanted to write the name down and bingo, I came out with calamine lotion for my rash. I phoned Singapore Airlines to change my flight. Seb can come out early so I’m meeting him in Singapore in a weeks time. Unlike Singapore Airlines in Sydney where just a phone call is enough to change to an earlier flight; Singapore Airlines in Taipei requires a copy of your ticket. They wanted me to fax them my ticket details. I had 10 mins to do it before they closed for the day at 5.45pm. My first port of call was the internet cafe; they tell me that 7-11 does faxing. Ling later confirmed that 7-11s are major convenient – you can do almost everything there (ATM, fax, photocopy, pay your household bills etc). Faxing at the 7-11 is so simple, so quick. Then I’m on the phone again and bingo, flight changed. Then back to the internet cafe to book a hotel. Bingo, hotel booked. See, when I’m on my own I do okay.

I bumped into Shihmen and 2 of her friends moving her stuff in when I got back to the apartment. The place is a newly built one bedroom (twin beds) apartment and virtually empty except for a washing machine and fridge – most vital stuff I’d say. Tonight I’ll be on my own – would it feel strange not to have Sophia there?

After talking to Ling on the phone, we arranged to meet at University Station, exit no.4 – problem was when I got to the MRT station and found that University Station didn’t exist. I asked the woman behind the counter the nearest MRT station to the University – after 10 mins she still didn’t know. I tried to call Ling but the pay phones in the station (and most stations) are card only. So I asked 2 guys who looked like they could have gone to University and next minute I’m zooming off to Gongguan MRT station. After finding each other, Ling showed me a dark building (I’m blind and it’s dark) where she lived when she attended the National Taiwan University. She hasn’t been in the area for up to 4 years and wanted to show me the sights and foods she enjoyed back then. She tells me that the area is made to accommodate the mass student population and looking at it now, it’s much more trendier and not so simple back in her student days. Ling weaves in and out of lanes to a restaurant called Shun-Yuan where she orders some of her favourite dishes; one of which is pig’s ear. I tried it and if she didn’t tell me I would have happily munched away a little more but she told me and all I could think about are the white lines between the brown bits and think of creases in the ear. After a couple of tries, I left the rest to Ling. Another dish was tofu and black (with a green centre) duck’s egg which I liked and can eat again. It was the first I had congee with not white rice but little yellow rice – the dish is literally translated little rice congee.

We then went to have some fruit tea, tea with floating bits of fruit inside the pot. Nice. Ling tells me about Mr Ma, the present Mayor, a good-looking guy, Harvard graduate, lawyer, who is the opposition that nearly overthrew the President the day I came. It’s a complicated story behind it all. It had something to do with the President’s son-in-law breaking the law, using insiders information to make lots of money but was caught, then they find that the President’s wife did some frowned-upon stuff as well, til the network of corruption weaved and flowed all around the President. In the end, according to Ling, Mr Ma is a gentle man and after losing the parliament vote to have the President kicked off his throne; he decided to calm the whole thing down. According to Ling, to kick out the President, the whole country would have to vote and that could take a lot of time and manpower and also, the fact that his term finishes in 2 years, the opposition decided to not push it in the end. You can see why Ling and Yating think politics is very entertaining here.

After yesterday’s posting and a chat with Ling, I’ve decided to make some changes health-wise, some serious changes and it starts tomorrow.

***

To Family: Please check your emails and respond.

***

Art Print $25.99 (115 x 82 in)

If you’ve heard this story before, don’t stop me, because I’d like to hear it again. – Groucho Marx. American Comedian, Actor and Singer, 1890–1977

So here it is, Silent Witness the TV series I’m in is playing on the following days. (Thanks Tobias for letting me know.)

Cargo

Part 1  [Monday 10th July 2006, 9pm, BBC ONE]
Part 2  [Tuesday 11th July 2006, 9pm, BBC ONE]

Originally in the script, we were episodes 3 & 4 but there were rumours that it was so good that they wanted to open with it. I don’t know if that is true but here we are. In lots of ways it’s exciting; with the knowledge that over 10 million people will be watching you; but I’m very apprehensive about watching myself so it’s a good thing I can’t. Two things I’m worried about; one, my Chinese accent (did I tell you I do have lots of accents in me but the problem is I can’t control them, quite useless in my mind but unique is a nicer word normally used at first meeting); two, my Cantonese. I’m just imagining my parents cringing at my Cantonese; please lord let them use a translator in the editing so they cut any crap stuff out, please lord hear my prayers. Luckily I don’t have to cringe while watching with family because I am here!! The great excuse that is called ‘Travel’. Anyway, I should say that I’m brilliant and I’m not worried at all! Yeah.

Tonight we watched ‘Superman’ in Ximen; in one of the biggest cinemas, well, I’ve ever seen. I have nothing bad to say about ‘Superman’. It was great. And from Sophia, I get behind the scenes too. It seems that Bryan Singer was sacked from Xmen 3 because he wanted to direct ‘Superman’ as well; that Marvel (Xmen) and DC Comics (Superman) didn’t like it. That’s why Xmen 3, I won’t spoil it for those who haven’t seen it, frivolous fun that it is, could have been much better; it had lots of good ideas that were never really fully developed. Superman though I have no complaints; it was great fun.

This afternoon, Ling took Sophia and I to Taipei Fine Arts Museum to see the ‘New Media Collection 1965-2005 Centre Pompidou’ which was pretty cool and you can get free internet access there (4 computers). Sophia’s last night and I’m at the internet cafe. They’ve been giving me a hard time about my constant need for internet access and cannot understand my obsession. I guess it’s my way of ‘checking in’ to family and I want to remember this, even if it’s censored.

I’ve been invited, along with the others to a U Theatre performance on Friday 7th July, as a member of the audience while they film the performance as part of the film ‘The Drummer’. The U Theatre are a very famous drumming group and I would love to see them but I’ve got to wear something smart, a dress, the production manager Long suggested. Up until now I’ve got used to the idea that I look manky and minging with clothes I’ve brought along because I’m willing to chuck them any time I need to – so not so nice clothes. I’ve got used to looking like I’ve been dragged backwards, sideways and bounced up and down a bit; and walking next to trendy, slim (oh man, you can get a massive complex here in Taiwan – the times I say ‘I’m so FAT!’ I’ve lost count) very pretty girls in short skirts and feminine tops; I’ve got used to it. Anyway, enough of the rant. What I’m trying to say is I don’t have a dress, heels etc and it means I’ve got to buy and dump; and I don’t think I can fit into anything made in Taiwan – I’m going to look so big it might be embarrassing; and nothing goes with a rash; and I’m not going if the others don’t go; and it might take more than 12 hours and being an extra, my agent might murder me. They’re my excuses. The only good reason to go is the opportunity to see this amazing (I’ve been told) drumming group play and I just know they’re going to be brilliant; I heard one of the guys play on set. I’ve been told Jackie Chan’s son and Sinje Lee will be performing as part of the group but they will be pretending to drum being actors.

I have prickly heat (and the only clothes that seem to help are ones that are specially made for outdoor activities, breathable, easy to pack and fast drying) so I’m going to maybe buy some clothes and a UV umbrella to prevent getting more rashes and to hunt down a Body Shop to get hold of calamine lotion to soothe the pumps a little. So at the moment I have the will power of Buddha but also the social and intellectual capacity of an amoeba. The sun, humidity, rash and organised friends can do that to you, make you into a non-talking, non-thinking, non-sociable, total zombie zapped piece of plankton! My friends think I’m totally useless, for example, tonight I say something stupid about catching a taxi back and they had to remind me that the place we’re staying at is just a block away or we’d been walking to a 7-11 and they’d send me on an errand back where we’ve walked from, I had to go back in to ask them which way we’ve come from. See? Non-existent no brain seaweed – actually even seaweed has more intellectual capacity than I have when sun, humidity, prickly heat rash and organised friends are combined in a place called Taipei. And the only cure is being on my own. Blind faith tells me I’ll be okay on my own. Seb, I will try to be in some working condition by the time I meet you in Singapore, I promise. My friends think I’m such a child and they hope I will act more independently further on in my journey! I can! Just not when you’re around. In a group, I’m a follower, okay; it’s easier and I’m lazy! I know, I know, it’s a bad thing not to look where you’re going, I know, I know Nick.

Poster $5.99 (74 x 115 in)

Courage is resistance to fear, mastery of fear – not absence of fear – Mark Twain. American Humorist, Writer and Lecturer. 1835–1910

After an exciting tussle of football; Ronaldo and Figo are two guys girls drool over. Sophia has been keeping track. She was mighty upset (we were all asleep) when Argentina lost to Germany and Martina (tennis) lost on the same night. You might have heard her scream that night wherever in the world you may have been.

Sausages here are great. You get a variety. There are stalls selling sausages of different flavours eg chocolate, wasabi or with rice inside. And exotic fruits are plentiful. Every day, it gets so hot, you have to have yourself fresh real fruit crushed into mush – yum.

The transport infrastructure here is much more developed than China but not yet surpassing HK. In terms of tourism, if China scares you in terms of being tourist non-friendly (remoter areas); Taiwan would be a good start because in terms of architecture and scenery; areas in Taiwan offer a touch of raw China and a more than a touch of HK in more developed parts.

Sophia and I found the cinema showing films at the Taipei Film Festival in Ximen so when she flies back to HK tomorrow, I might catch a couple of films. Having met people here involved in many films; I’ve been given a list of must-watch-when-I-get-a-chance films. Sophia tells me I should push it more and try to get representation here in Asia. It made me think.

So France beat Brazil; we can’t believe it here but I’m glad.

***

To Em: It’s the people I hang around with; really, really trully.

To Simon: Good to hear from you; I’ll try call mum soon.

To Nick: Congratulations on getting in the scriptwriting course brainbox; how is that holy head of yours?

To Graham: Yes, it may have been me you saw on TV, it seems I’m appearing in the first episode of ‘Silent Witness’ on 10th and 11th July.

To Joao: Your guys beat England, I can’t believe it!

To Seb: You set for Singapore? It would be cool to see you. Are you ready for the heat?

***

Photo $5.99 (92 x 115 in)

We all have our time machines. Some take us back, they’re called memories. Some take us forward, they’re called dreams. – Jeremy Irons. British Actor, b.1948

I’m back in Taipei at another location. Sophia and I are staying tonight at Yating’s new place. This internet cafe is nearby near Taipower Building Station and a famous night market near Shudah Road, trendy, full of students and all types of food stalls; like living smack in the middle of Covent Garden but more of the student variety.

It’s 3.25am. I’ve just watched England lose to Portugal. I’ve never been so excited about a game; I guess it’s got to do with the fact that Yating, Ling, Sophia and Ling’s sister were all cheering for Portugal and I felt I had to show a little for England. We went to a bar near the 101 Tower (tallest building in the world until next year when Shanghai will outdo Taiwan) where football supporters were very polite and tame and we girls were one of the few noisier tables. For the first half, all you could here from our table was ‘Not Rooney again!’ You know I’m not into football but today I cheered England on and felt rotten when they lost. My girl friends’ only consolation was ‘now you can support France’ who played Brazil straight after.

On Wednesday night on the way from the MRT to our hotel in Ximen, we got out of Ximen Exit No.6 and found a film crew there filming a Taiwanese film called, yes you’ve guessed, ‘Ximen Exit No. 6’. It seems that the exit is famous for old men looking for young school girls and young girls looking for old men and other ‘interesting’ people.

So, some amazing things have happened since I wrote last. The last few days the temperature has been from 29 – 36 degrees. I’m getting used to it though I’ve got a rash on my neck and legs at the moment and I don’t know if it’s the detergent used on the clothes, the materials themselves (in this heat and non-breathable) or just plain heat rash – it’s bugging me.

On the Thursday; we arrived at Taitung after a relaxing journey – the trains are great, air conditioned, spacious, slow – you can enjoy the view – and went straight to the film set of the film ‘The Drummer’. We hired a car and in that sort of temperature, the air conditioning was very much appreciated by all. Taitung is not a place you can just walk around.

On set, near the Chihpen Hot Springs and the Royal Hotel Chihpen high up in the mountains, I met Alex (art director), Long (production manager), Kenny (director) and Jack (very popular wardrobe person) and others who I didn’t get a chance to speak to. Chihpen is covered in mountains of a such deep lush green that you can’t see the soil or small dirt roads that weave in and out of it. Alex tell us it took 20 days to build the bamboo huts that make up the village that are part of the set and as it’s up high in the unreachable mountains, they had to pave the road to get their vehicles up there. We left feeling quite chuffed after Alex gave us a guided tour.

Chihpen Hot Springs was our next stop. Ling tells us on our first day that we’ve got to try their hot springs before we go. You can do it naked (indoors) or with swimming costume (outdoors). Yating and Shihmen wanted to go starkers. I’m a prude so Sophia and I opted for outdoor and not starkers. We had to purchase a towel and cap (compulsory for outdoors). There were different pools separated by large pebbles with levels of hotness and there were different areas where water bubbled and you just put your body against the bubbles or bursts of water to massage whichever part you want to massage. Very refreshing and relaxing; and when you’re swimming and gob in a bit of water, it’s pretty cool to not taste salt or chlorine but spring still water.

Staying in Taitung and in the mountains you need to spray yourself with insect repellent. Sophia has a HK-made one which has only natural ingredients and smells like lemongrass (one of the ingredients). I like the smell. I did buy a brand that Yating uses called ‘Off!’ which also has only natural ingredients and smelt of orange. I prefer the lemongrass smell. They both seem to be working just fine. But I’ve been told if they want your blood, they will find a way – bloody buggy bliters!

We stayed at the guesthouse called (literally translated) ‘Overlooking the hut’; the owners grow their own tea and lemongrass and on Friday we drove around the Taitung area. We did the tourist destinations cruising about; traffic is almost non-existent and everybody just seems to be taking it easy as well. Driving in Taipei is a mad affair. Yating and Ling are crazy wild drivers. My sisters would tell you I’m a dazed driver but my friends are mad! Ling did a U-turn on a busy road, then decided it was the wrong direction, then another U-turn, making a huge circle! She calmly tells us ‘It’s easy as long as you’re not scared’. Crazy woman! But we do appreciate her driving us around in her air conditioned car of an orange. 

The tourist attractions: The Flowing River is a pretty, fake river of clear blue built for some purpose but seems forgotten about – we surprised a man in his swimming brief coming out of the water. We snacked on some stones near a restaurant overlooking the sea and Sophia thought she saw a whale – but as we watched the same spot for half an hour and it looked like it wasn’t moving (though the waves were breaking at the same point giving the impression it was moving) – that became our fake whale. We drove to Chu Lu Ranch and tasted fresh cow’s milk and saw some real and fake cows. (In Taiwan, same as in China, drinks tend to be sweetened and if you ask for coffee, the assumption is that you want 2 sugars and milk with it so if you don’t, specify.) We went to a place called ‘Water Running Up’ to see a stream of about 15cm where the water ran upwards. Yating tells us it looks like it but due to some geographical logic it really isn’t, so that was our fake 15cm water running up. Then that evening we went to a seafood restaurant recommended to us by the owner of the guesthouse – very nice. A group of people sat on the table next to us; one of them looked like Jane Goode, the famous woman in the film ‘Gorillas in the Mist’, according to Yating and Sophia. At the end; while they got more snacks from the local 7-11, and being egged on, I returned first to the scene of the crime to get an autograph. Yating and the rest came along soon after and we had this incredible meeting with this woman that they admired. Later in the car, I looked at the autograph, it didn’t say Jane Goode, but Elizabeth Something!! So that was our fake Jane Goode. We’ve been meaning to google this Elizabeth woman as we’re convinced she’s famous for something. We laughed about it; at least we made her feel special for a whole 10 mins! That was our fake Friday.

Saturday, after breakfast, we drove back to the film set. I’m blind and can’t take small hints from Sophia who kept pointing at her eye. I thought she was bitten and was in some sort of eye fit or something. But no, Sophia and Yating had to tell me in a loud and obvious manner that over there in the distance is Sinje Lee (main lead in the film ‘The Eye’). I got closer and sure enough it was her. They were shooting a scene in the village right there and then. I took some photos. Then Sophia whispered into my ear that the guy who was sitting just on my left is Jacky Chan’s son and he’s the male lead. I nod to this. I mean what can you say to that? As we were about to leave, I can’t remember what I said but Jacky Chan’s son, Jay Cee, must have heard my accent and jumped up and asked me if I was from England. I said yes and asked him ‘has he been?’; he tells me (in front of everyone) that he has. Then he asks me what sign I am. I say ‘What do you mean sign (you know, I’ve been ranting about signs, what signs does he mean)? so after a little confusion he tells he meant Star sign. I tell him I’m a Pisces. Then he turns to this pretty girl who I find out later is his assistant and tells her ‘I told you so, didn’t I tell you she’s a Pisces’. I’m a little surprised to say the least, that this guy has been discussing my star sign with others and we were only there for an hour or so. I ask him how he knew. He tells me he’s allergic to Pisces. I explain to him that the word ‘allergic’ suggests that he doesn’t like Pisces. He explains he’s likes beef like Pisces but they’re not good for him but he likes them. He tells me he’s allergic to Aquarius as well and his mother is Aquarius. Imagine, we are having this conversation in front of everyone. Then he tells me I’m a super Pisces, very graceful and feminine etc. Whatever he’s saying he’s really happy he was right about me being a Pisces. Sophia tells him she’s a Pisces as well. He proceeds by telling me that his assistant and the director Kenny are both also Pisces! He asks me my birthdate; I tell him 1st March. His assistant tells me hers is 9th March. Then he asks me what my boyfriend’s star sign is!

Being kicked off. Will respond to comments tomorrow!

Nobody holds a good opinion of a man who holds a low opinion of himself – Anthony Trollope.

So I’m in this crazy situation. I’m in Taitung Centre; and in the library, the office where workers work. It seems the house/hotel we’re staying at, the guy told us we can use the internet here but after asking around, workers here tell us we need a card to use the computers. So we call the guy; he calls a colleague, who goes to the internet room but because the guy who’s working there is a volunteer and doing his job, he wouldn’t let us and then another colleague had to come down and then the internet guy said okay but he’s going to lunch so now I’m in an office using a work computer!! In one morning we have created havoc in the local library abusing our powers, well, someone is using their power for us. Are you confused? I am. But here I am.

Yating, Shihmen (Yating’s sister), Sophia have gone off to find the largest bank here so Sophia can change her HK dollars to Taiwan dollars (Yating keeps asking Sophia if she has her passport – it’s important) and left me here alone tapping away. Now I know how it feels even for a little bit about working in an office here.

The night before leaving Taipei we took the MRT to Zhongxiou Danhua station (we saw 5 westerners!) and Ling picked us up and drove to Tunghua Night Market; Yating met us there later. It seems that you can order Sashimi, Octopus as well as Chinese food in most places. We also had Bamboo shoots, and purple brown sausage eaten with a slice of garlic and coriander , all new to me and very tasty. Ling tell us that Japanese and Korean influences are big in Taiwan because of Japanese occupation and Korean is just very popular right now (Remember what I said about Korea being the new Japanese?). All menus are in Chinese. While we ate, Sophia and I tell Yating and Ling where we walked. They think we’ve walked from one end of Taiwan to the other by their look of shock. So we tell them north of Ximen (the hotel) is where you can get all your cloths/materials; south is where the techno camera stuff are; east, the hospitals/medical stuff and where trendy school kids hangout playing computer games and stuff and in the east wasn’t much stuff.

I left my big backpack at Wonstar Hotel for free. The hotel which is also known as Onestar is pretty cool. You get free porn and lots of movie channels on a the biggest TV I’ve ever seen. Yesterday we had to get up at 5.45am to get the train at 7.10am. We were dawdling (5 mins to go) when this foghorn of a sound blasted our room. It was a fire alarm. I finished off my coffee and we grabbed our stuff and like royalty in chaos, we were escorted out by all the guests in the hotel. Poor woman at the desk; she was being told off big time. We left unscathed. We were told to meet at Taipei Main Station at the 7-11, the most popular convenient store. Luckily Sophia wandered about, we found out there were six 7-11’s with one at each corner of the station! The 7-11’s sell hot steamed buns – I liked the pork and preserved cabbage.

There’s a ladies carriage for women only on the train. Train schedules are in Chinese with no English translations. The seats have lots of space for your legs and the seat reclines lower so I fell asleep during our 6 hours ride. The scenery is breathtaking to put it mildly – deep mountains…

Friends are back. Have to go. Will finish this later.

New opinions are always suspected, and usually opposed, without any other reason but because they are not already common. – John Locke. English Philosopher who made great contributions in studies of politics, government and psychology. 1632–1704