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Luang Prabang and drums, cycling, motorbiking to waterfall and getting to Vientianne

Tuesday, August 15th, 2006

It’s been quite crazy travelling from China overland to Laos. But here’s a quickie on where we stopped. We got our Laos visas at the border (Boten) UK citizens pay $35 and French citizens pay $30. Those from Sweden have it the sweetest at $31 and the Canadians get hit the hardest with $42! We went straight to Udomxai and stayed for a couple of nights; then to Nong Kiew staying 2 nights in a small cute hut by the river; then a boat to Luang Pradang. During this we met loads of great people. So much has happened but here’s just today.

Luang Pradang is covered with guesthouses and hotels; so many that we and the many friends we’ve met on the way can’t remember the name of. Two Israeli girls we met in Nong Kiew and here are staying in and have seen more than 3 guesthouses called ‘Pussy Guesthouse’. It’s baffling; I haven’t seen them. The night market here are great. The Laos really know how tourism work. Today, after having a fruit juice, Seb heard someone playing the drums. Seb has keen ears. Then he asked the woman who made the drinks where the drums were coming from and the three of us went searching. We got the door of this house. Two middle-aged women sat on the doorsteps. Seb played air drums and she led the way, into her house, through a large room and into a room of young boys playing keyboard, electric guitar and drums. Seb was soon on the drums drumming away. I’ve never heard him play and was quite impressed. The lady of the house offered us a cup of water. Not long after a good-looking teenager entered the room and the lady of house gestured that it was this boy who was learning. Seb then took the role of teacher and taught him a sequence. The teenager was a fast learner. It was a pretty cool experience. Here we were in a stranger’s house and Seb was playing and teaching a Laos boy how to play.

We wanted to rent a motorbike. In the heat and humidity; you can only go so far on a bicycle. Seb was up early and had rented a bicycle for $1 but after riding me on the back in the sun, we wanted a motorbike. The motorbike also allow for more distance and we wanted to go further. After asking around we found out that motorbikes were no longer rented out to tourists because one time someone got drunk, had an accident and made a scene so now it’s almost impossible to rent one in terms of renting stalls. Though there are individuals who would let you ride theirs at a cost. We found a guy who would rent us his motor for $20 who lowered it to $15. Later we found a guy who would rent it for $8. Our friends were going to visit a waterfall as part of a tour. We thought it would be fun to find this waterfall on the motorbike. It took us an hour straight and 40km to get there. The roads can get pretty bumpy and we had to ask a couple of times by making wave and water falling signals. The Loas woman in a village understood and managed to communicate with hand signals that to go straight, 4th road on the left. That was cool. We got there and saw our friends (I can’t spell their names), Seb swan, we hiked up to the top of this massive waterfall (I don’t know the name but all the tuk tuks and pick up taxis will offer to take you there) and yes it’s worth seeing.

We’re trying to figure out how to get to Siem Reap for the 31st Aug. We’re planning to go to Thailand before entering Cambodia. Actually I’m supposed to be researching prices, routes and forms of transport. We’ve booked a trip on a VIP bus (it has a toilet) for 8am tomorrow, a 8 hrs ride to Vientienne.

***

To Amy: All is cool. Melodramatic but just a story. The monks are friendly and when one passes you can’t help but feel good.

To Em: Good to hear that you’re keeping an eye on me.

To other travellers: My blog is for me and what a place means to me. Everything has different meanings to everyone. I try to add info that may be helpful especially when I couldn’t find it anywhere else but this is my blog diary, my meanings – for more ‘relevant’ info buy a lonely planet book.

***

Quote of the day
Who is too old to learn is too old to teach Thinkexist.com Quotations
Proverb.

Laos, Luang Prabang and how monks help a girl

Sunday, August 13th, 2006

There was once a girl who came to a strange and beautiful land called Laos in the stunning town Luang Prabang. The people of this land smile at her and want to be her friend. People of other lands want to be her friend. But tonight, for many reasons only her mind can unravel, she feels very lonely. Feeling like this, she doesn’t want to meet anyone or see anyone. She doesn’t want the happy excited people to see how suddenly lost she feels right now. So she walks by the river but tonight it doesn’t give her the solace she seeks. As she wanders, she wants to cry and as tears drop involuntarily, she wants to run away from the streets full of busy people, so she can cry on her own. She sees some steps and two dragons float between these steps guarding her from the world below. She climbs them and gets to the top. Further is a temple but she doesn’t want to disturb the peace in there. Sitting on the top step, she allows herself to cry loud, hoping the heavy pouring would make the sadness go away sooner. She knows she should not be sad because this was a happy place. And the people she has met are enlightened, full of awareness, aware that everyone is in control of their own feelings, that whatever they feel, if it hurts or is negative, then it’s themselves to blame because no one controls their reactions other than themselves. But right now, she wants to be human, with human failings, who feels hurt and lonely; and she doesn’t want to deny them even if it’s her own doing. She wants to feel the feeling, without intellectual analysing and denial. Her feelings may be irrational but they exists. She lets them exist; letting them take over. Now she sobs uncontrollably, her face in her hands, hiding from this happy place. Slowly she realises a soft shadow next to her. She looks up, her long hair wet against her face. There stood a young monk dressed in orange. His face is one of concern but still peaceful. She realises 6 more from the age of 10-16 stood behind him. He kindly asks her if she’s okay and why she cries. She doesn’t want anyone to see her. She doesn’t want to explain her irrational feelings and how she let herself indulge in what she feels no matter how unintellectual or unenlightened. She doesn’t want to explain she sometimes just want to be human, to feel human feelings, have normal human thoughts, have needs, have wants, have expectations, like any human. She’s tired of feeling at peace, explaining away all human emotions except happiness. She didn’t want to explain how indulgent she was being; how she can pretend that she too is happy like everyone else but didn’t want to. She thought she knew things. Now she knows she knows nothing. In her search for meaning; she wants to know if having emotions, no matter how irrational, is wrong? If only the rational mind exists with its theories of how to live, to think, to be, she’s not sure she wants it. How can she explain this confusion to this monk who keeps asking? His wanting to help makes her cry even more and she just wants to run away. Later, after more walking, she comes back to the stairs which still promises more solace than the streets. This second time, no monks stand at the top. She climbs the stairs again, the dragons inviting and protecting her. She sits again on the top step. She sits for a long time; she’s not sure how long. Then when there are no more tears to be shed and with a fresh calmness of emotional tiredness, she descends the stairs. She turns to look at her resting place for the last time and there she saw at one end of a dragon stood the group of monks. They were keeping a kind and protective eye on her; this time learning that coming too close she might run so they watch and pray for her. She descends the last step and looks back. They watch her leave. Language barrier aside, she understands they cared and seeing what a sad creature she was, were protecting her with their gaze, standing by her side. She walked away feeling their strength, their positive energy, their innocent care. And even when the stairs were out of sight, the monks were still by her side, gliding behind her, gently pushing her forward towards the happy land full of happy people. And now, they will never leave her. I am that girl. You are that girl. We are the same. And I want to feel my emotions again even if it’s destructive even for a moment; to experience the kind protection of monks for that moment and now forever.

Kunming and internet, Hungry Ghost Festival, nightmare, the dead and preparing for Laos

Wednesday, August 9th, 2006
It's 10.15am and I'm in the Camellia Hotel's business centre which has 6 computers and they charge you 10 yuan an hour compared to 3 yuan in local internet cafes for the convenience. Most internet places and restaurants, including this ... [Continue reading this entry]

China, Kunming and Bank of China, renting bike, hotels, language and prepare for Laos

Tuesday, August 8th, 2006
It's 18.33, Tuesday 8th August. I'm at a massive internet cafe on ChunChen Lu in Kunming. Since arriving yesterday morning at 6.09am, Seb and I have been getting to know the area on our rented bicycles. This is the best ... [Continue reading this entry]

Quang Ninh, Bai Chay, Halong Bay and relatives, typhoon, beach, Chinese yuan and getting out before the storm

Monday, August 7th, 2006
Wednesday 2nd, Thursday 3rd and Friday 4th August. I'm so behind with blogging and I'd really like to get all this down before I forget. Will update when I get a chance.
Quote of the day
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Muine Beach, Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi

Wednesday, August 2nd, 2006
Thursday 27th July to Thursday 2nd August  Thursday 27th July --- Ho Chi Minh City We came back to Saigon and 3rd cousin invited us to her place in Saigon for lunch. We go straight there. She lives on a busy little side road with her ... [Continue reading this entry]

Hanoi, Golden Sun Hotel, a motorbike ride around town, bun cha and more relatives. Bao Binh and our last night in Bao Binh.

Wednesday, August 2nd, 2006
It's 2.15pm in Hanoi. I'm in the hotel 'Golden Sun Hotel', using the free internet access (2 computers), keeping out of the burning sun. The Golden Sun Hotel has just opened and belongs to the family who owns 'Hanoi Guesthouse' recommended ... [Continue reading this entry]

Bao Binh and market, water, ice stall, tree planting, moths, wormy food, hairy lychees, jackfruit

Sunday, July 30th, 2006
I'm back at Yellow House Hotel in Saigon. It's 21.57pm. Seb has gone for a walk. We're taking it easy after a 4 hour coach journey from Muine Beach. Tuesday 26th July --- Seb was up at 5am. He told me later ... [Continue reading this entry]

Bao Binh and hats, the house, farm life, relatives, market, the zapper, black centipedes and black bugs

Saturday, July 29th, 2006
I'm now on the free internet (one computer) at Lucy's Resort in Muine Beach.  Monday 25th July --- 7th cousin's place is basic; we meet her husband; and daughter who sweetly brought us a glass of water. This is the first time Seb has seen a village ... [Continue reading this entry]

Journey to Bao Binh and Monday 25th July, bus station and bread

Thursday, July 27th, 2006
I can't sleep. It's 4.57am. It's too hot to sleep. The problem with sharing a room with a fellow traveller is that you have to compromise. Seb doesn't like noise. It keeps him awake so we opt for the quiet air ... [Continue reading this entry]