my first leap

It’s 10.15am and I’m in the Camellia Hotel’s business centre which has 6 computers and they charge you 10 yuan an hour compared to 3 yuan in local internet cafes for the convenience. Most internet places and restaurants, including this centre shut about 11pm. The other night I walked for 20 mins looking for an internet cafe because this one was shut. The streets were still busy with people; though I realised that even if I did find an internet cafe, after an hour surfing, the streets would be empty. I was surprised to see grown men looking through the dustbins. I didn’t feel threatened, they didn’t take much notice of me but felt I should be cautious. Seb was at the hotel thinking I was also in the hotel and didn’t know I had wandered out and it was selfish of me to not think about how worried he’d be if anything bad happened to me. When you’re determined to get somewhere yet half of you feel you should go back, it can be a frustrating feeling. I saw a woman tuk tuk driver and saw that as a sign. I jumped on and went back to the hotel.

When we were in PingXiang; my cousin told me of the Chinese Hungry Ghost Festival and that we could celebrate it if we went to ZhongZuo to visit her mother. Because of time constraints we didn’t go to ZhongZuo in the end. It was the most stunning place I’ve been to and to get an idea how stunning, you can get an idea if you take a bus from PingXiang to Nanning. I forgot all about it until last night. Yesterday night, both Seb and I were so tired after travelling that when I felt a male presence behind me stroking my back, I felt a little freaked; so freaked I jumped on to Seb’s bed and slept with the wall on one side and Seb on the other. I was sleeping in that half sleep state when you’re still aware of the room around you but you’re sure you’re asleep as well. That’s when I felt more than one pair of eyes on me, of women and children in the bedroom. I dismissed it as tiredness and a too-active-imagination. But normally with vivid imaginations, images tend to be a little more horrifying. This time, I wasn’t scared, they were just watching and even the man who stroked my back wasn’t aggressive. I finally I slept and had a nightmare. In my nightmare, I felt the presences again. I whispered to Seb ‘Seb, do you see them?’ and Seb said ‘Shhh, quiet, I see them.’ And the next minute I felt an invisible-but-seemed-so-real bag made of some sort of netting thrown over my face and I choked myself awake. I related my nightmare to Seb and then forgot it. The next day, coming into the room on my own, I felt I wasn’t alone. Last night, whilst walking back to the hotel we noticed on the pavements circles drawn with chalk and burnt ashes within. I had noticed them the night before but it didn’t click. But last night I remembered the Hungry Ghost Festival and that these piles of ashes were the result of families burning death money, clothes, food etc for their dead. And then I remembered the feeling of others in the bedroom, the nightmare and how mine and Seb’s arms, the right arm, have been feeling weird ever since we’ve stayed here, like someone was putting pressure on it as though trying to draw blood. Seb also has been losing feeling in his legs the same night I had the nightmare. It’s all very strange. This morning though, after Seb went around the room chanting something inaudible – no, I lie, I don’t know what he did but he said he did something, the presences were gone. Very weird. This was the first for me.

We’ve booked ourselves on a sleeper coach. I’ve been on one before but this will be the first for Seb. We’re leaving at 3.30pm and arriving in Mengla 14 hours later. We love China. This time round, knowing a bit more of the language, people are friendlier and more approachable. We both wanted to stay longer. The air is cooler and the weather perfect for cycling.

It’s now 13.26am and we’ve just checked out (check out 14.00) after some breakfast – the breakfast buffet at the Camellia is good, I especially enjoyed the noodles. We’re waiting around til it’s time to go to the bus station. So while Taiwan, South China and Tokyo are being whipped about by typhoon Maria, Saomai and Prapiroon, I’ve just watched a documentary on the Nanjing Massacre 1937, within 6 weeks the Japanese invaded, tortured and raped 300,000 Chinese people – click here for some photos. Today the Japanese remember the bombing of Nagasaki yet they deny ever the Nanking massacre ever happened. As Seb reminds me of what the Chinese are doing in Tibet; I know that not one Nation is good or bad; but I just want to remember the victims no matter who they are.

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To Amy: Forgot to say thanks for commenting on Silent Witness. Hoped mum liked it. Glad to hear to watched it twice!

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I like men who have a future and women who have a past – Oscar Wilde. Irish Poet, Novelist, Dramatist and Critic, 1854–1900

Yesterday night I packed all my crap into my backpack and waited for Ling and her big orange car (which I didn’t see at first – Ling was shocked and my reassurance that I’m not that blind and that I was daydreaming did not wash down; I don’t think she believes me).

Ling drove me back to her place but before we went upstairs, we stopped by at her favourite juice store. There, I found out I can combine fruits to make the most unbelievable flavours. One of her favourites which I tried was the mixture of mango, guava, milk and pudding. Heavenly, sweet but without the sugar (I’ve been told). I asked her about this pudding but after a minute of explanation, I gather only it’s a type of pudding that’s pronounced in Mandarin ‘buding’ (like pudding but with a ‘b’); she tried to show me it in its physical form but she explained after searching that the owner probably put it in the fridge to keep cool so I left it at that – the mysterious Taiwanese pudding. She had another combination of kiwi and pineapple – just as yummy. She then took me to her local comic store where she borrows comics and novels and the like, like a library but not a library; you pay a tiny amount of a couple of dollars for each comic and when you’ve finished you take it back – there is a due date and you’re fined if you go over – Ling had to that’s how I know.

Ling’s place is a spacious bedsit with a bathroom. My things have invaded a little corner of the bed and my aim til I leave is to get rid of as much stuff as I can. Today, looking at Taipei’s Metro System map (MRT) that I’ve managed to live in the near (not far end) east of the metro (Zhongxiao Fuxing), the near west (Ximen) and the near south (Taipower Building). I moved in – though Yating kindly offered for me to stay until they move in next weekend – so I can attack Ling’s DVD collection (she put aside ‘Three Times’, ‘Cafe Lumiere’ and her showreel for me to watch) and the Blockbuster store nearby.

I got out late this morning and found a Sushi Express near the MRT – total heaven! I’m addicted to raw fish or you can argue I’m addicted to wasabi – not the same without wasabi and lots of it! I quite like Sushi Express because you face the plates of sushi going around on a belt so it’s kind of okay if you’re on your own; outdoor stalls are the same. I ask for miso soup this time; they don’t understand English; and I found out it’s simply ‘soup’ in Mandarin which I know how to say.

Ling had given instructions, after helping me ring around to find out where to find malaria tablets (thanks Ling), on how to find the largest chemist in Taipei called Shanghai Chemist. She had marked it out on a map and I left it by accident at Sushi Express! Luckily I remember the nearest MRT station – Ximen and the road it was on. When I got there I wandered about, no one seems to know where this chemist was; I was beginning to think that it didn’t exist and that somehow I didn’t hear Ling properly or I’m not saying it right. Finally, I asked a man at a small pharmacy and he directed me – competitor know-how I guess. I can understand directions but like when it’s said in English, I’m lost by the fourth direction so I keep asking and getting lots of practise. I find the road and then I find the chemist. I go to this older woman and ask her if she spoke English. She looks around and shakes her head. She asks me to write it. So I write it. She doesn’t know. I explain in my best Mandarin and lots of hand signals showing my insect bites. She runs to get some insect cream; I say no. I explain that I’ll be going to Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia etc. I don’t think I made sense but she got it. She came back with Lariam (Mefloquine), the one I’ve heard bad things about. I ask her if she has others. She comes back with another which I’ve not heard of; I open the box and read the detailed instructions which were luckily in English and it’s what is given if you’re suspected of suffering from malaria. She’s been so helpful but I didn’t want Lariam so I explained I’m looking for Malarone (a combination of Atovaquone 250mg and Proguanil 100mg); it’s more expensive than Mefloquine I say but doesn’t have the side affects of Mefloquine – one of which I know I’m prone to and that is you become more sensitive to the sun and heat (what the nurse said at my GP). I explain this to the lady. I manage to put it simply as the one I’m looking for is very expensive and it’s good. The one there (I point) is not good, and not good for going into the sun. She nodded; she knew; she understood. I told the lady I’d think about it. I’m going to see if there’s another solution.

Back in Zhongxiao Fuxing, I try to find the Post Office. Again asking lots of people; I understand straight ahead and then right or left but if they mention other things that just confuse me so I walk straight and then right or left then ask again. Once, I felt really good when I recognise what the boy told me; about passing a park (I know the word) and I was very pleased with myself. Asking someone directions can be upsetting I feel; in China, any woman I’d call her ‘sister’ and they seem pleased because I guess they think I believe they’re young-looking. I called a bunch of young boys ‘young brother’ and they seem okay about it, though I’m not sure if that’s right. I will ask Ling later. Once I found the Post Office (the front is green and has banking facilities), I saw a desk with some wrapping paper and tape; I asked the woman sitting closest to me in Mandarin if it was okay for me to use. She said yes and I used it; wrapping my stuff very quickly dreading someone tapping me on the shoulder and asking me why I was using their stuff. No one did. I went to the counter and told the woman I’d like to send it to UK and asked her for snail mail, the slowest I said. I had already sent back my diving book near Yating’s place and the slowest was 2 months. In Australia, the slowest is 4 months, just right, my other diving book will get back the same time I get back, that’s okay with me.

I tried to track down the public library near Ling’s place, which offers free internet (Ling told me); it’s on the 8th floor above a fire station. I found it in the end. The only people who seems to know it exists are the teenagers. The internet is free (4 computers) but after 30 mins, if there is someone waiting, you will be kicked off and the computers are a little slower than in internet cafes but hey, it’s free. I used it and after sending 2 emails I was kicked off. So I am in an internet cafe. And the only people who know where internet cafes are the teenagers. Playing games via the net is very very popular here. Internet prices tend to range from $40-$100 depending how cool your computer (it’s $60 and the screens are flat screen) and cubicle/facilities look ($40 gets you a row of computers with no separation; $60 gets you a cool modern cubicle all to yourself, lots of space and a phone; naturally, the atmosphere of both are way different. Here there’s the club vibe with rap music blasting away in the background. Most are the same in terms of speed and accessibility. Sometimes you just don’t have a choice.

Now, I’m going to find out how to ring home the easiest way possible. Out to the moisture-laden streets again.

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Hi Olga!

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Photo $5.99 (92 x 115 in)

If I had to live my life again, I’d make the same mistakes, only sooner. – Tallulah Bankhead. American Actress, 1903–1968

I had a reflective moment flying from Sydney to Singapore today; now I'm waiting for my transfer flight to Taipei. I heard and personally feel that your early thirties are the happiest compared to before. It's a time when - ... [Continue reading this entry]